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We had some dramatic weather earlier, although it's all quite placid now

That’s my new toy!!

That believe it or not is the standard behaviour from what I have read, closing the bonnet resets it, I dont know if it would come on again in the same journey

Alternative Hi Guys.. Bit of a curveball but here's a potential solution (It certainly works for me!) Requirements. Carplay enabled MIB Jailbroken iPhone. There's a Cydia app called 'CarBridge' It enables anything (For the most part) that's displayed on the phone screen to be visible on Carplay. It even allows you to 'publish' apps so they become icons on your carplay dash. Only real limitations are apps that have DRM (Netflix, Disney+ Sky Go etc).. These just display a black screen There are plenty that do work flawlessly (BBC iplayer, Youtube, Kodi!) See screenshots below

Hi, you need to get your calculator out and do the sums as to either you get the engine replaced/ repaired or you trade what you have in for something else, either way it will cost you some money unfortunately. As it recently passed mot I would seriously consider getting rid tbh as the path of least hassle, let it become someone else's problem

https://www.carscoops.com/2021/05/2023-skoda-fabia-combi-previewed-in-unofficial-illustration/ Great to have this addition

Hi. As I received no reply from the dealer I pulled the fuses this morning. All ok now and back to normal. Greetings from Portugal and thanks for the love for the Costa Vicentina from others on the forum.

not too bad, fairly standard kit for the price range, FSA cranks, WTB rims, Maxxis tyres and Shimano drive and brakes, 29 wheels roll really well. Front shock is probably lower end spec now but it is solo air so a bonus,100mm a touch skinny but again in this price bracket fairly normal, a lot are just coils. Bottom Bracket i think is threaded?, square taper, again old but perfectly capable, got it on my Felt and no issues Gearing is super low, 28t front, 52 t 'dinner plate' rear.....mine is 28 / 46 https://www.bikecalc.com/gear_ratios i think at 28/52 the 0.54 figure relates to 1x crank revolution = 0.54 revolution of rear wheel? as you'll find out, you may need to have alist of 3-4 bikes and it could be a case of which one you can find? second hand 'can' be a good way to stretch your budget but potentially spend money to replace parts that are nearing the end of their life not sure what Eire is like for bike prices/stock but UK has definitely gone C-19 'tax' crazy...my Whyte 801 has gone up by 20% in less than 2yrs

Sure, here you go... When in parking mode follow steps 1-3. After pressing the camera icon i get a message saying function is currently not available.

Wisdom? You must be thinking of someone else! I suppose I can offer my opinion and experience of doing the job myself. It may give you the confidence to have a go yourself or it'll put you off I guess. I'll answer your questions first. 1. Are there any downsides for daily use? None that I have noticed. I did this back in February and have had no issues since. The car is definitely happier on cold mornings and other than the emissions probably being a bit higher in the first instance, there haven't been any downsides. If anything, there's a couple of benefits as far as I can see. Firstly, the car is smoother on cold start up and secondly, there's more room in the engine bay now making access to certain things easier. 2. Is it really as easy as folk say? It wasn't difficult, but there were elements that required a certain level of competence. The removal of the pump itself was a bit awkward so I dismantled it in situ to get it out. The top bracket bolt was a pain to remove but I managed eventually. It made a bit of a mess on the drive as I lost coolant removing the temp sensor housing (I replaced mine with a new one). It took me about 4 hours in total but you have to factor in that it was bloody cold, I have a dodgy back and I kept being rained on. 3. Can it be coded out (during a remap) prior to removing all the hardware, preventing an EML forever? I used a resistor to overcome this issue. I took the connectors out of the pump, soldered them onto a resistor, wrapped this up in tape and plugged it back in. Three months later it all seems okay and there haven't been any error codes. My car also has the N249 and N112 bypass done which again doesn't seem to have affected anything. I'm going to have a go at the PCV system next as I've already installed a catch can and want to do this last mod to finish everything off. I'm waiting till I have a free weekend to do this as well as make sure I won't get rained on again. I've attached a photo of all the SAI bits on the drive after they came off the car. Hope this helps but if you have any other questions, just ask.

I had this on a brand new octavia vrs ,when I looked on the briskoda forum it was a well known issue something like Hamburg syndrome or some other German town and was fixed with a new gps antenna I the head unit I believe,so as previous post says antenna knackered.

As PetrolDave mentioned, it some extra hardware that connects to the buttons to press it for you. Random example that's probably correct for a Superb: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002491684461.html

The side towards rear 3/4 is the right place to place charging ports. It won't be frozen in winter, it is not at most often damaged part of the car. The issue is that charging location is not standardised, Some cars on the left, some on the right. But you don't want cable to be too long and become unwieldy + a trip hazard. Liquid fuel gotten around this by having just long enough hose attached to the top + the connector that can be inserted in any orientation. I think I've seen chargers with large overhead attached cable that can be moved to the other side, thus able to reach left or right hand side. Place it at the middle of a bay and that should be good enough. Often, with these early chargers, the problem is road layout designer hasn't driven an EV. Thinks just plunk a charger down anywhere at end of the bay is okay. Here's a crazy idea: CCS port on the car where charger handle is sideways, cable goes out towards the back rather than down. So it doesn't require such long cable to reach.

There's your first problem. You used the Voice Commands on the MIB system. Big mistake. There are a number of bug fixes which can be fixed with 0478 - you might want speak with @pab567who can assist there. If you are not technically proficient, then come back to me and I'll see what I can do to assist.

We've been on Gen 5 Haldex since 2016. 'Haldex Generation V uses an electronic control design that can proactively engage the clutch before any actual slip occurs. It monitors steering angle, throttle position, engine torque, engine RPM, individual wheel speeds, vehicle yaw and other sensors. These feed the anti-lock brake system (ABS), anti-slip regulation (ASR, a.k.a. traction control), Cross Differential Lock (XDS: an advanced descendent of VW/Audi's Electronic Differential Lock, EDL), the Electronic Stabilization Program (ESP) as well as the Haldex working together in the integrated 4Motion system. These data combined with those systems act in concert to vector torque to the wheels in proportion to where the driver is directing travel.' From here.....https://www.wolfeden.org/cars/golf-r/haldex.html

T20d/12 and T20e/12 are on the front door controllers. That means connector T20d pin 12 and T20e pin 12. There should only be one 20 pin connector on the door controller so it's easy to find pin 12 on each side. The 20 pin is labelled as connector D below: The Octavia WD I have isn't super helpful but you can see: - pin 12 on connector T20d/T20e is power - pin 19 on connector T20d/T20e is ground - pin 8/9 on connector T20d/T20e are CAN-bus IIRC, T20d/T20e pin 20 is also power but that's only used for the electric windows. Still worth checking though.

thanks, we will have the same car

There's more to number plates than just spacing and font these days. Take a look at INF104 taken from gov uk rules number plates. It states: Based on that, the short plates shown above aren't legal as they don't show any of that information. I doubt most Police officers would care but if they wanted to make an example of you, they could

I've had skid pan training, 4wd training and pursuit training. Either way I wouldn't call myself an expert at all. Simple rule with directional tyres is they must "roll" in the correct direction. Asymmetrical tyres again are similar but have a slight more give/take. In the end let a professional tyre store rotate your tyres and leave it at that.

Revo would be my choice too.

The standout thing to me is that you've no communication with any door module: Address 42: Door Elect, Driver Cannot be reached Address 52: Door Elect, Pass. Cannot be reached Address 62: Door, Rear Left Cannot be reached Address 72: Door, Rear Right Cannot be reached It's somewhat unusual to lose all four so I'd be checking for common points of failure, ie power or CAN-bus. I haven't got a wiring diagram for a Superb but I'd replace the fuse and check the fusebox contacts are in good condition, it's probably called the 'central locking control module' and at least on a MK2 Octavia, it's fuse 12 (10A) in the dashboard end fuse panel. It's probably the same for a Superb but check If that makes no change, check the door modules are getting power on pins T20d/12 and T20e/12. There are separate fuses which feed the electric windows but I don't think they are needed for the modules to communicate. Pretty sure the rear modules aren't 'proper' modules so I'd be concentrating on the front modules for now. Once you've verified the modules have power (and ground), I'd then suspect either broken or shorted CAN-bus wires. They'll be harder to track down but the door gaiters are an obvious starting point. If there's nothing obvious, you should do a proper test of the wiring between the CAN gateway and the door modules. TBH, given there are no obvious faults in the CAN gateway about CAN-bus issues/shorts/1-wire mode etc, it feels like power is a more obvious fit. As for the other faults: - Address 05 and 09 are almost certainly a side-effect of the missing door modules - Address 08 are unlikely the cause or will help diagnose this, could be a side-effect - Address 19 is expected (radio/nav removed, door modules are sad) - Address 2E is expected as the radio/nav is removed - Address 47, check the tweeter and wiring to front right door - Address 6D no idea, could be a side-effect - Address 77 is also due to the radio/nav replacement

Yeah, turn off ignition then back on or even turn on the engine for a few seconds. It doesn't matter whether the cable is plugged in or not. Play around with the affected functions on the vehicle as well. Now do another scan. It's common enough for old fault codes to be left on the car after a repair, especially if it's done outside the dealer network, or if it's a simple DIY fix. These can cause confusion when troubleshooting a problem. This procedure clears all codes, then powers up the affected systems to see what codes might be relevant to the current problem. As for the head unit, after you unplugged it, did you turn on the ignition/engine and play around with the affected functions? My hunch here is the head unit could be sending nonsense on the CAN lines and interfering with communications between other modules.

Engine code on my car is DKZA

If your car has a CBZA or CBZB engine then the MAP (1.2 Tsi has two MAP Sensors) sensor is located on top of the air intake pipe. It is not like a MAF inside a cylindrical case, but just like a plug type thingy. Take a look at the instructions of how to install a BOV so to locate them. (http://www.tmg-performance.com/media/wysiwyg/TMG-1.2-TSI-BOV-Instructions-EN.pdf) Then it is a good practice to check if your PCV valve is not broken as it can cause problems as well. Its code is 030103175B and is located on the right of the engine block and a bit under the air intake pipe. You can spot it if you follow the little pressure hose from your air filter box going to your engine. More info on the links below.

The person you're asking hasn't been on the forum since January 2015. This thread is from 2009.

For a long time I had problems where every time I got W10 updates my Wi-Fi dongle lost the drivers. I tried looking on the maker site (TP link) and found a new driver. Problem still existed. I tried a new dongle. This cured the problem for a while but returned on later W10 updates. I eventually bought a new Wi-Fi internal card and to date (even after a re instal and more updates) the problems have not returned.

The chart is about fixed services/ annual. So actually the DSG service is due at 40,000 miles which might be in however many services time for others looking at the recommendations as Skoda UK do not use the word 'schedule', so for many it can be depending on when the car gets to 40,000 miles. The Haldex used to be at 40,000 miles then VW went to 3 years, not even 30,000 miles. The Haldex might well need doing before 30,000 miles and before 3 years. Done properly that is, not just an oil change without a proper clean out. So change of oil and filter services on the engine oil and filter to variable if you like but be sure the DSG is being serviced on time, and be sure the Haldex is properly serviced and not as many Dealership Workshop employees think is acceptable.

Today bootlid spoiler and rear windscreen spoiler. Have to clean off the residue the holding tape left

Not sure about that, i believe they can see if any software modifications have been done to the ECU, so be carefull about that warranty!

Hi James, welcome to the forum. A pity you didn't persist with the supplier at the time of purchase. How much oil is it using per thousand miles? Is there significant blue (oil) smoke from the exhaust when accelerating from the overrun?

You might find these articles interesting as well. ŠKODA 4×4: Your Best Bet in the Snow - ŠKODA Storyboard (skoda-storyboard.com) My understanding is that the rear wheels are only driven when the front ones lose traction, but even in last winter's snow I never detected mine being engaged. The car just drove over the snow and ice with no fuss whatsoever. Chris PS: According to this video: History of the Haldex AWD System - YouTube the Gen 1 Haldex fed 10% to 50% drive to the rear wheels as required. The Gen 2 fed 5% to 50%, and from the Gen 3 on it was 0% to 50%. So your salesman was a bit out of date Chris

If the cars been mapped, factory warranty will be void for the turbo. Revo would be my choice for the mapping work.

I'd be tempted to take off the original plate and ensure some wonky eyed dealers apprentice hasn't drilled extra holes that will be revealed by your new shorty plate. More than one over on the OVRS Facebook page have taken off their full size plate to find holes that have been drilled outside of the normal places and aren't covered by a short plate. Probably OK on black but anything else is going to leave an ugly problem

The finished articles.

Update on my custom install, in case it's useful to anyone. The system was done in two stages - firstly, the speakers were upgraded to Audison Voce bass, mid and tweeter - plus the doors were comprehensively dampened with dyna-mat. The next stage was to remove the stock amp and replace with an Audison 8 channel digital amp - this includes DSP on all channels, making a fully active system with time alignment and EQ on each speaker. This is fed optically from a Zen- V 150 Module, which converts the "MOST" optical digital signal into Toslink. This module sits invisibly behind the dash, next to the sat-nav brains in the glovebox. A couple of nice but subtle touches are the tweeter builds, which incorporate the original door corner mouldings and the remote control for the amp, which now sits in the little cubby to the right of the steering wheel (and still retains one pound coins for Aldi trollies ). All finished tastefully in a similar Alcantara to the OE material. Pics below, including some the techs took during installation.

I ragged the poo outta mine & it's lived through 42k miles of abuse. Got a dsg in my vRS245 too and they're awesome when remapped, make the car punch well above its weight

Found a new spot for watching the sunset last night (also spotted some excellent Rainbows)

which is what i did - i retrofitted the Direct TPMS, so i can see actual pressure values in the centre cluster and infotainment.

This is how it works. I think coasting is present in all modes except Sport. Some requirements need to be met for coasting to engage. See attached pictures.

How much Bose system upgrade in Audi cost comparing Superb Canton? How much cost the sound insulation? Its just huge difference between Canton and no Canton in Superb, same added difference could be again comparing Canton to any other premium system from premium cars. But like it or not, for 85% people, there is even no difference between Canton and No Canton... No offense, but having good trained ears sounds like a curse in this world, you can be hardly satisfied with anything mass-produced.

@Aarond It's a bit of a list, it would've been more but sadly Irish VRT being what it is means no sunroof or Canton for Irish spec cars.

So just a quick update on my original post, dealer rang me today. He could have the car in the dealership by next weekend depending on how full the ferry is to Dublin port. He will contact me next week to confirm for definite but having the car in a little over 10 weeks from initial order and all the optional extras is one hell of a result.

Glad you got it sorted👍

Just a final update from me. Got the car delivered yesterday. Ordered on the 5th of Jan... estate, petrol, DSG, DCC. 😍

There doesn't seem to be much demand from Octavia MK3 VRS owners to downgrade to 288mm front brakes. Greece is a hot country. 340mm front discs will run cooler than smaller discs. Porsche calipers won't help with cooling. To save weight, you could run narrower 205/50R17 tyres on 6.5Jx17 ET38 rims from a Kodiaq. Goodyear EfficientGrip Performance 2 205/50R17 https://www.blackcircles.com/order/tyres/search?width=205&profile=50&rim=17&manufacturer=goodyear&id=10075 Alcar 9021 6.5Jx17 ET38 5/112 57.1 Steel Rims (heavy alloy rims are also available in this size, but they are about 0.5kg to 1kg heavier than the steel equivalent) https://www.oponeo.pl/felga-stalowa/alcar-kfz-9021#21773131 https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/plechovy-disk-17-/p/5QF601027J+03C 6.5Jx17 ET38 steel rims weigh 10.53kg each. 205/50R17 tyres weigh less than 225/45R17 tyres. 288mm front brake discs weigh 7.3kg each https://www.autodoc.co.uk/brembo/7005461 312mm front brake discs weigh 8.6kg each https://www.autodoc.co.uk/brembo/1657592 340mm front brake discs weigh 10.8kg each https://www.autodoc.co.uk/brembo/8714327 6.5Jx17 ET38 steel rims, 205/50R17 tyres, and 340mm front discs will weigh about the same as 7Jx17 ET49 alloy rims, 225/45R17 tyres, and 312mm front discs.

How much power and torque is your car now making? I've done upgrades to 312 mm front discs on both my Mk4 Golf GT TDI, many years ago and much more recently to my remapped 2106 Yeti 150 TDI. The Yeti was upgraded by fitting Mk5 /6 Golf GTI caliper carriers and 312 mm drilled and vented discs. If you want more retardation, it's possible to fit Porsche 4 pot calipers onto 312 mm discs. To do that you'd need something like this kit plus the front calipers from Porsche 986, i.e. first generation Boxster. https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/darkside-mk4-platform-312mm-brake-upgrade-fitting-kit-for-porsche-986-4-pot-front-calipers.html The Porsche calipers would offer the biggest upgrade. They would increase retardation ability as well as feel and the ability to modulate brake application much more. With these brakes, I think there would be no need to go to bigger discs with the penalty of increased unsprung weight.

My car now has more hp and maybe I will increase more. Also if I can stop earlier, I feel safer. Last, for the look I didn't imagine that the extra weight will cause such big difference in ride quality Vrs models I suppose are OK. Is it because of stronger suspension? Something else?

Skoda never printed an insert card for the internal fuse panel for RHD cars, which have a layout that's a mirror image of that in LHD cars, so you have to factor that in when checking fuses. As for your current issue, you have a diagnostic fault code for a sensor in the ABS. Assuming it's not an old code, I'd start there. Fix the problem you know you have first.

I've recently had this problem with my 2.0 CR Elegance. It turned out to be the O/S rear ABS sensor - the thin metal cover at the back of the brake disc had rusted and become detached. In the process it damaged the ABS sensor. All sorted now - no warning lights.