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That's very low. Using the tragic demise of a young rider as an opportunity to spout off your sly anti-Hamilton propaganda. Shocking. Even beyond what I would expect from some on here.

Although my Octavia came with the Black Pack, for me it still had too much chrome for a modern car. In fact, any chrome on a modern motor I just do not like. Chrome only looks good on some classic motors. So over the last few months I have either taken the chrome badges off for good, or replaced them with colour matched and black ones. I have also taken the chrome exhaust tips off, rubbed the chrome dull and sprayed them gloss black. Today I have at last got rid of the last chrome badges, the centre wheel caps. Bought some off ebay, rubbed them down and sprayed them gloss black. Keeping the old original chrome and black centre caps, just in case I think I have gone too far and want to put them back on again. A mate of mine suggested painting the brake calipers black as well, but that I think, might actually be a step too far.

Is there any good advice? Yeah, post it in a readable format.

My concern, and the reason I didn't wait for the fix was that Skoda only ever mentioned the KPH/MPH issue. I had a feeling that because this was the legal issue, they were only concerned about this. When I spoke to them about up dates they never mentioned whether there was a fix for all the other glitches with the infotainment system mentioned. I hope they have sorted ALL of the issues to reward for all those that have waited. You all deserve it.

Might be worth adding a small guide or state any issues you’ve had along the way. Might help someone else who is looking to do it.

The 1.6 TDI only comes with one DSG and that is a DQ200 7 speed twin dry clutch. Lots and lots of threads on them so really there will need to be a diagnosis carried out by someone with all the gear and not just ideas but the knowledge. How many miles has the car done?

I haven’t had to replace battery, everything seems fine now.

I repaired the 6 broken wires in the cable loom today and reassembled all parts removed to gain access. The car started and I drove it a short distance. The speedo now worked and all the warning light except one (airbag) had gone. I will investigate the airbag warning tomorrow. The loom repair was done without removing the dash. In fact the only item that was mandatory to remove on the interior side was the blower motor.

Hi fitted the water pump all the pulleys and the belt that was a sod to get on, figured out the timing turned the crank with a spanner no interference, made sure everything was clear, and went for it, it started first turn of the key and ran perfectly!!, what a relief actually brought me to tears. Could not get the bolt undone from the crank to change the oil seal, so put the engine mount back on took it to a local garage that had one of those hammer guns that undid it, so I will be changing the oil seal tomorrow and putting it back together, I know it means taking the belt off again but at least I know the engine is ok. Thanks to everyone that commented and gave advice. It's been quite a journey and an emotional one as well.

How to retrofit trailer assist on a Skoda Superb MY17 After a lot of research, You must have Park Assist (PLA 3.0) You must have a Tow Bar (Obviously) You need to either install or replace your RVC (Reversing Camera), not just for a High version, but a High version that supports trailer assist (As I found out to my cost of nearly £200), the standard L&K factory camera will not work. To replace the camera, you only change the boot opener button section that includes the camera and plug in the cables, the cables running to the back of the stereo are the same, took me less than 10 minutes to swap over the camera. I bought my camera from an eBayer in Germany who was recommended to me, I had a 5Q0 980 568 B camera with the 5Q0-980-556 label file with measurements for my specific vehicle, the camera I believe is from a VW Touran or similar, but the seller will upload what ever vehicle you ask. eBayer = https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/vwmodul_de?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 eBay item ref:- 273844642105 (5E5 / 5TA with trailer assistant) The camera does come with a cable set which is not needed, I will put it with my 1 week old camera to sell it on. My old camera was 3V0 827 566 N – Shows in VCDS as 5Q0 980 556 B To code using either VCDS / VCP / ODB ELEVEN (I used VCDS) 1) Open module 6C (Backup camera), change long coding Byte 10, tick Bit 3 (equipment_ARA_optical,installed) 2) Open module 10, login using security code 71679, change long coding Byte 3, tick Bit 3 (Trailer positioning assistant, 0 = not installed / 1 = installed) 3) Open module 5F – Go to Adaptions, change “ENG122229-ENG122332-Car_Function_List_BAP_Gen2-Trailer_Assistant_msg_bus_0x36” to “COMFORT BUS” NOTE: Please ignore other websites that ask for adaptions on menu_display_trailer_assistant menu_display_trailer_assistant_over_threshold_high Trailer_Assistant_0x36 Leave these 3 as not activated. Activating these 3 can cause problems with your RVC (Reversing camera) 4) Open module 17 – Change long coding Byte 12, Tick Bit 5 (Trailer positioning assistant,Yes) Clear all DTC's Then hook up your trailer, Engage reverse gear Press the park assist button, you can now control the trailer from the mirror adjust joystick, press it down to fix at straight back, Or press to the left / right and use the maxidot to tell the car where you want the trailer. To Stop trailer assist, either select drive / 1st gear or press the park assist button again. I hope this helps someone and saves them many hours of research of which cameras do / don't work etc. Enjoy

A remapped diesel to fly about the country (to work that is 😂) And an old track car. Both stunning when washed. Good condition. Fast. Loved. Both needed 😂😂

I don't know the situation you are in but people have tried to persuade me to sell my '95 MX-5 a few times for various reasons (kids / not used etc.) But no one has succeeded yet and they won't.

Is there any way of telling? The only receipt I have with regards to any of that is a Dsg gearbox. Nothing with the paperwork with regards to replacement engine. It's done 58,000 miles and since having it (4 weeks) I've not had any issues with oil etc. I asked the previous owner if he had remapped it, he said it hadn't.

I just tested with bonnet open and then closed and there is no difference. Both give a reading of 12.43v after the car hasn’t been running for nearly a week. It made me question the reading on Tuesday (12.3v) so I tried another multimeter and it gave 12.44v so well within tolerances. It’s not a permanent drain given the reading today so I either didn’t lock the car or didn’t give it a full 30min on Tuesday. Anyway, it seems much better than the ~12.2v I was getting prior to the full recharge and battery reset. Thanks for all the info and I will keep an eye on it.

You have a serious electrical/CANBus problem. Find an auto electrician, not a VAG main stealer.

Unless you introduced the gas via the bleed port on an AC manifold set while the system was under vacuum (you close off the port to the vacuum pump and bleed in the refrigerant) then the system will have been full of humid air at 1 bar atmospheric pressure, if you managed to pressurise the system to say 4 bar using the cans (and you would need double the amount they say based on weight) then the air now at 4 bar pressure will be taking up 25% of the system volume, the water vapour that it contained will have condensed & unless you replaced the drier will spread around the system possibly damaging the pump but certainly freezing after the evaporator orifice restriction. I am sure that you hope you have purchased the correct gas but its illegal to sell it within the EU and virtually impossible to find, the Ali-Express sellers have to resort to calling it various inventive names like "air freshener" or "AC test fluid" I had 3 orders from different sellers that didn't arrive (I suspect they were siezed) before I bit the bullet and paid a fortune for a 13kg R1344a cylinder and even then nobody would sell it to me unless I was a qualified frigoriste, the exception being a Lithuanian seller & even he has probably been shut down. There are no restrictions however in selling propane gas despite the fact that it could cause an explosion.

I tested some while back and like you just ended up confusing myself more I have to check the system soon so I will do the back to back test like you did although I dont think that I have a spare working G65 sensor, its possible though. I will report back and if I have a conclusion I will write it down amongst my AC dossier graphs, notes etc otherwise I will forget once again.

Thanks. During my call with Skoda UK, I was encouraged by reference to the fix being for not only the KPH/MPH issue, but also things like ACC, road sign recognition, emergency braking and so on. I so want my car back, and working as it should!

When I bought my Octavia, it had the foam insert in the wheel well, along with that rubbish gunge you use if you have a puncture. So I took out the foam insert and replaced it with a space saver wheel. The space saver is of course, quite thin, so there is a space between the wheel and boot floor. If I then did load something heavy in the boot, it would bow down into the space between the wheel and boot floor covering. I carry heavy loads regularly on dive trips, 4 full cylinders and dive gear in the boot, so I also need a strong floor. My easy remedy, I bought a large sheet of 5 ply plywood. Cut it to the shape of the boot floor and laid it down covering the whole floor, with the carpet and a rubber boot liner over the top. It is now very strong and certainly would be strong enough for a few bags of gravel. Below is a photo of the plywood inside the boot. The light part of the photo is only a reflection of the sun, that shiny thing we sometimes see in this country.

Only you will know when you have the smooth ride. On a Hatch i usually went for 33psi front and rears with light loads in summer with 205/40R 17's, 215/40R 17's or 205/45 R17, then if i wanted a bit more grip i might drop the front a couple of psi. Why not put in 35psi front and rear and front first drop the pressure, then try dropping the rear and go on until happy. The tyre will make a difference, so are you running or fitting XL's. (Stronger sidewalls) ?

Same here

I’m trying to get tickets for Dublin zoo next month. It’s maybe a long shot, but if needed and some of the crew would push the bike off the boat at this end. I can pick it up and get it at least that far for you when I’m going.

A few from recent evening walks / days out....

nice...n+5, i doff my hat to you or should that be chapeau

OK, just a thought. I was thinking more of if you were taking a trip across anytime. Bikes are in demand and i am sitting with about 5 i no longer ride and and 4 Electrics i do.

id still have to get at least as far as cairnryan for a pick up... thats a long way for a bike 🤪

If you have adblue ensure you get the correct kit as the right hand foam insert is different. And be prepared for your bag hooks to become useless when the floor is raised.

I noticed that on mine too. Weird but seems to be consistent behaviour. Chris

Caffyns Tunbridge Wells (Skoda dealership) advertising on Ebay as Caffynscarparts Official Skoda Set of Spare Wheel fitted with 195/60 R16 tyre, Tool Kit, False Boot Floor and (presumably) the boxes to keep everything snug and rattle free. Parts 5L0071108B and 8P060102703C £260 No doubt, a Skoda dealer close to you can supply same.

The Parking Lights on the roadside front and rear of the vehicle (& one reg plate light.) Is legal in the UK where you are required to have Parking Lights displayed. Side / Position Lights are not 'Parking Lights' for having a car at a roadside stationary where 'Parking Lights' are required. They can function as Parking Lights, and that will be when the ignition is off. Lots of cars can not have 'Sidelights' on if the keys are out and the car locked, but they can and do have 'Parking Lights' which can be on, this is all part of Construction & Use, & meeting EU / UK legislation etc. The RAC so then The Sun and others keep going on about it being illegal to park without having 'Sidelights on'. Then they go on about Low Energy Use etc etc and how they will not flatten a battery. Well just Front & Rear & Reg Plate lights on can have a Fabia Battery flat if on from Lighting Up time / Darkness until dawn / Day Light time.

... because the coolant is not being evaporated by the airflow as it's inside a sealed environment, it's the latent heat of vaporisation that causes the temperature drop, so no vaporisation = no cooling.

The micro hybrid 2 section is relevant in this link… https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/micro-hybrid-hybrid-vehicles-explained/

Can't say I ever tried locking myself in the car then trying to get out It feels like normal behaviour due to the deadlocks though. As John mentioned, double tapping the lock button within 2 seconds should prevent the deadlocks but you may need to pull the door handle twice to get out. It's all covered in the owners manual under 'safe securing', might be worth a read to compare with your cars behaviour.

Part number for the front vRS badge I ordered for my facelift is 5E0 853 736 C 9B9, hope that helps. Regarding folks questions on splitting it from back plate, see pictures. 4 ‘pins’ that align it on the plate, then Skoda’s crazy adhesive.

Thanks to e-Roottoot and TheUltraRunner. The 360 camera would be great but being in a RHD market, our changes will be largely driven by what the UK gets. We already have the false boot floor as standard. Hopefully, the infotainment issues will be fully sorted by then or Skoda will be Cleverly Simple in addressing customer care.

Good point - although I use "Rain X" on mine. Makes a huge difference.

Yeah mate. That's actually about no help because I neither know you nor buy bagged gravel from B&Q (or anywhere else). I think the bags should state a mass on them, and under UK manual handling regulations, should weigh 20kg or less each.

Will have a look to see whether this is the same release as VV containing the dirty on Seat users. Accident or design.

Skoda Server http://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/HIGH12_P192_EU_202125.zip

My AAWireless fits nicely inside the slot located under the armrest console storage area. With flap down, u'd not know its there.

mine is up an running within 20-30 secs after firing the car up. happy with that, as its ready to go before the car had dropped from its cold idle speed. sounds like u need to apply the latest OTA update.

I can confirm the park issue was just long coding For the module, my wiring was correct, Coding sorted it. Now just the heated wiring to run

You'll find a bunch of detail (see what I did there) in the Briskoda detailing forum. Unless you're going to store it unused in a hermetically sealed garage then personally I'd skip all the faff and just go with snowfoam + two bucket method using a woolskin mitt for the body and a separate one for the wheels. It's only going to get dirty again I also use a clay mitt (quicker than a clay bar) plus polish/wax twice a year with Autoglym/Meguiars. Aside from that I use Showroom Shine to top up the wax after washing. I use Autoglym something or other for a once a year interior dust/clean and Simoniz leather treatment for the seats (also once a year). It's too big a car to clean and wax every weekend My car is swirled and stone chipped to buggery with whiteworm in the alloys and that's after only 27k miles and me carefully cleaning it.

11 - BRAKE are not a "road safety charity" but an anti-motorist quango spending your money on nonsense like this - TRUE, in spades.

0367 Download link sent via PM

Greetings to all! I have an update!!! I literally changed it all. Distribution kit, oil pump and belt. Using Motul Oil 5w30 with vag 507 specs. if it was worth it? Not at all! Stay still. Don´t waste your money. The noise continues, but far less, and goes way much sooner. I checked the old oil pump and just by turning it, it´s very noisy, especially the vacuum part. The best option it´s to live with it. I have made peace with it. Please don´t make the same mistake, likei did. My car now have 54.600 Km. Regards

Latest Updated Speedcams - June, 2021. Here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( June, 2021). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams June, 2021.zip

1600 miles in and running lovely. Just need the infotainment sorting!

Personally I think plug in hybrids only make sense as company cars where they get low BIK %. They tend to be a lot more expensive than their normal ICE counterparts. You’ll only reap the rewards if you do a lot of miles and they’d have to be the right length journeys.