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I’d agree, it looks like typical leather marks. take it vack by all means, however, don’t let them only change the seat, as it will not match the colour of the other seats. leather kits are produced into car batches and vary from hide to hide

All fitted and fixed. Everything is back to normal. Many thanks for all the assistance.

You will probably run out of nerve before the Octavia runs out of grip, and you'll probably be going a good bit faster than is sensible for a public road at that point. I enjoy a spirited drive when I get the chance, as I suspect most here do, but that doesn't mean going around corners on the doorhandles at the limit of grip. One of my all time favourite driving days was a trip up the A470 from Dolgellau to Betws-y-Coed after collecting my Superb in Derby, going just quick enough to enjoy the car without risking a collision. You set yourself up for a bashing in your first post, wondering about the handling/grip limit. Driving right at the vehicle's limit leaves no margin for error if something unexpected happens - a kid runs out on the road, you come up behind a tractor coming out of a bend, a sheep wanders onto the road, etc. (and I would expect all of these and more as possibilities in a rural area). If you want to find out what your car is like at the limit, take it to a track day where it's safe to do so.

We swapped our Karoq for electric, but jumped over to VW's ID.4. Our lease was up and couldn't wait for the Enyaq to come available, which was disappointing as they kept changing the release date. I've not been disappointed with the electric experience so far, the drive, the ride, the silence.... It's great. I'll be hanging around as there is plenty of good information on here. @SurreySlowCoach You can charge the car while you visit the relatives, either at a local charger or with a 3-pin plug in the relatives house. Many of the latest EVs will do 300 miles, so 2 hours charge at a slow charger or 4-5 on a 3-pin will get you your 350 mile round trip. Refuelling your EV does not require your presence. @Sanqhar There is an EV forum on here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/382-electric-vehicles/ and an Enyaq forum https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/398-škoda-enyaq-iv/ (just in case you haven't seen them)

Cheers guys - all done and dusted! Got a bit worried when the screen went blank towards thge end and thought itd completed.... and I took the SD out but the unit told me to stop being stupid and put it back in (I paraphrase obvs!) and it then completed. Brilliant!

MY17 Skoda Superb 206TSI aka 280 with new wheels, Michelin PS4S 255 40/R19, Rieger front splitter, side skirts and rear diffuser, full paint correction and ceramic paint protection along with it's colour coded CZECHM4TE name badge!

Welcome to the real EV ownership. This is why I've been saying this for a LONG time. Rapid chargers are like fuel pumps, people depend on it to continue their journey, so they NEED to be installed in a forecourt fashion, multiple chargers at a single location. Still able to provide services should a few chargers break. Also greatly reduce possible queuing time. Unless there's CCTV, you can freely unplug and restart a charging sessions to avoid the overstay fee. They work based on the amount of time car is connected during a single charging session.

Don't worry about the head unit turning off, when you turn it back on it will continue where it left off.

You should be able to fully lock up any car that has remote or even only central locking when no battery is fitted. At least on Audis, VWs and SEATs, every side door without a key locking barrel, has a small rubber bung on the "rear" face of the door frame, not small rubber bung probably had a padlock outline on it and maybe a rectangular indent. The plan for when there is no battery power on the car is:- open each side door, remove that bung, fit the end of the ignition key into the manual locking part that gets exposed when you remove the bung, then give it a 1/4 or 1/2 turn one way - it will only go one way, do this gently as very little force is needed, refit the bung and close that door - it should now be locked and can be reopened from the inside in the usual way as dead locking has not been used. Repeat that for the other 2 doors if it a 5 door, then use the key to lock the driver's door. The rear hatch probably like other cars of this age, can not be opened from the outside so that end is secure and if you need to open it when the battery is out, there is usually a slot on the hatch's inner trim panel to slide a key in and release that opening. Edit:- Stop/Start in itself will not cause any issues when trying to revive that battery, but if you feel the need to buy another battery make sure it is an EFB or AGM version to keep things going as intended.

I managed to surf through the 1886 (till now) pages of the Fabia I forum! It took me some of a year to read... OK, not every post but the eye catching and every post familiar with my fabia (quite a lot!). A huge amount of knowledge is found here! But over all these pages, all these years, all that people who participated, I have a question... What the bloody thing with the "on" indication on the cub holder is for???

So had the Superb put on rolling road to check power after catback exhaust and JB4. Car did 3 runs, i switched between map 1 and 2, didn't bother with stock. Not going to lie bit disappointed but still happy i guess....

Exhaust gas temperature sensor number 3 is what google tells me about that fault code. Not uncommon to find this failure discussed on Briskoda, if memory serves. Not lambda sensor. Do some more research, I suggest.

I’ve probably searched the wrong thing after reading the handbook and the Haynes manual sorry! Please be patient with me 😩 Is it the Lambda sensor giving this error then? I’m sure I’ve read that these need replacing near 80k but I’m prob wrong on that. Do you think giving the DPF a proper cycle will sort it? Based on other photos I’ve seen from a different engine that’s just how it is #shrugs#

I’ve found it. It’s in an awkward place right at the back.

Mercedes drivers will be jealous....it's from a real animal and you've proof !!

It does yes, also, had the wife check and turns out both full beams work as long as the headlights are on, if they're just on sidelights/DRLs then I can't even flash them

I would be chuffed to have that anomoly in my leather seats if ever I were lucky enough to afford a car with them, chuffed because it would show that it was real and not imitation leather. They are beauty spots!

+ 1 for an emulator assuming there is one for that engine. Plug n play and no issues to date, if ever I do have problems and suspect it then its easy to remove it from the circuit by removing and repositioning 2 connectors, albeit one in a difficult position.

Please remember that the decibel rating is measured from outside the car as it drives by, and probably bears little relation to the noise level inside the car.

Or do as I do and find what its transient behaviour is in safe lower grip conditions, for me that means driving on our rocade (by pass) after 22.00 at night when it is deserted when the road surface is wet and greasy (but not while raining which would reduce my visibility) choosing a roundabout where I know there will be diesel spillages and where there is uninterrupted visibility to all of the roads joining it. I have a play on it with and without any 3 letter acronyms switched off in relative safety, expecting and being ready for a slide knowing that if it all goes wrong it will only be my pride and metal that gets dented. Said roundabout happens to be the one 200m from the Gendarmerie which they take to whenever they leave for or return from a patrol which makes me all the more attentive to make sure I am the only vehicle out there. It wasn't always that way, the UK roads were once my personal racetrack, thank heavens that cars had little or no grip back then and not even enough power to brake traction unless you deliberately unbalanced them. I regularly see the results of young idiots driving like I used to in todays vehicles, at least one or two a week laying in the fields after multiple roll overs on die straight roads with never any other vehicle involved.

The Skoda boot mat is doubled sided plastic one side carpet on other side to which these elements stick.

Hood has came back from painting, grinding up to Trizact 3000, polishing with 3M green, yellow and blue paste.

I doubt there's anything missing that should be there for your car, but here's your image anyway:

Perhaps there should be an electric car thread as a sticky. I don’t have one (yet). One thought about charging. In Bury St Edmunds there are some lamp posts that double up as charging points. They are next to the kerb and parking spaces so no cables across the pavement. Good bit of lateral thinking by the Council. Tom

Brilliant - in that case - can you get in touch @Gizmo who will add you onto the VCDS register - and you can then look at the numerous mods you can do for your Octavia III - If you correspond with both @SashaGrace and also @langers2k, they can also assist with VCDS mods. We will help you understand how the system works. Many thanks for doing this!

Method 1 Consumer Use The customer way of doing it is sort of yes. The process will run on for 20 minutes after you last close the door since the car has systems powered up for 20 minutes after ignition off and lock. It remember where it is, although there might be some roll back a little. Next time the unit gets some power it starts off again... probably from a mid point roll back position. Drive it around etc. Those 20 minutes of power add up. Most people seem to say just over 40 minutes which is a bit surprising since its suppose to be about an hour or more via that method. Method 2 Techie Use The other method is via the developers menu, SWDL. That menu is disabled on delivery, you need VCDS/Obdeleven, mib tool etc to enable it. Once enabled you can load up the maps in foreground only from the SWDL command (method 1 is still available). It suspends all other infotainment activity during the process. You need to keep power onto the unit since roll back is to the very start whilst the first method isn't, that method pieces together the powered periods and I believe you can still use the radio (You cant on method 2). Open the door every 15 minutes to keep the power going for just over 40 minutes if the engine is turned off. Those are the two methods. The latter is only really for techie people. It gets the job done and you can see the process. (I never do method 1 myself)

Not if you cut their legs off. Drastic but efficient... An adult managed to destroy one of the B Piller mounted ones in our MKII - I was not happy. Apparently "It just fell to bits!" he said....

The alternative is that you can financially afford it, then please go and purchase a VCDS system for yourself and be our Cornwall correspondant for scanning and fixing any niggles. https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCV23.html

Try having a look at this list for VCDS owners to help you out with Scans:

What can sometimes happen is that the DAB option can be accidently coded out when a firmware update is applied. The artifaxing from updates can occur. You will probably need to re-enable DAB - but it would also be a good thing to get a scan of your car to see if the radio is complaining of firmware checksum error (easy to code and fix) or whether the DAB option has been accidently switched out. Worse case - an hour on ODIS to reenable DAB (about 90UKP) There is an interesting thread here from Ross-Tech forums: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/18122/

Nil carbon content steel, I knew they were simply clever but that is really clever considering that higher carbon contet steels have increased corrosion. There is no question though that any aftermarket discs, even the cheapest of the cheap that I fit massively outperform the factory fitted ones in terms of corrosion resistance, it cant be because of added cheapness or all the Chinese pattern part manufacturers would be producing the same.

That sounds pretty much the same as when my bicycle brake rotors touch the pads intermittently due to it not being absolutely aligned.

Please see the video of the rattling noise. There is plenty padding left on the pads but and caliper is not lose either. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks 20210708-210954_y0sFUDun.mp4

There are many reasons for the EML to come on. Ideally you need to get the car scanned for fault codes to narrow it down

Sorry I've not logged on for a while, so didn't see this thread. It looks like I have one which is dated 2 Feb 2021. SKODA SE Technology Brochure 02FEB2021.pdf

Thanks so much for sharing the helpful posts. Firstly, it's handy to know it is reasonably common. The gent in the first post has done what I've done and gone for brembos so very surprised I have had the same issue twice. First with eichers, then with the Brembos. The other mentions shims, but again my searching online hasn't really helped me here. Another mentions a grease, but I'd only imagine that would further help with squealing (which isn't a symptom I have) and not the knocking. I'll jump on one of those posts and see how they got on. Thanks anyway

Unless the VRS front wings are fitted differently to the standard Octy they are bonded to a support bracket on the top of the run about halfway between the windscreen and the back of the headlamp. The bonding agent will release with the aid of a hot air gun and some patience, and the rest is just bolted up, so a replacement is quite feasible. The parts diagram below is for a 2008 Octavia 1Z, and shows the wing plus support bracket (#6). What it doesn't show (for some reason) is the kidney-shaped foam dampener which sits inside the top of the wing and is bonded in. It is this part that I had to release using a heat gun and reassemble with fresh polyurethane adhesive (don't buy the VAG one at £30 or so, you can get the same thing from a motor factor for around £8). I don't have the part number details for the foam insert here but I'll post it when I can find it. NB the link to the parts diagram and the catalogue is included underneath. BTW do check brackets #2 & #3 aren't bent. https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2008-419/8/821-821010/

Not familiar with the citigo, but most models its in the passenger footwell just under the glovebox, towards the centre console end. If you have the pollen filter out, you can spray in there directly with the fan running.

Almost fantasy green 😂

TPS have been in touch, the remaining piece of seat plastic side trim has now come into stock having been on back order for weeks and weeks - I can't imagine there is much call for people buying obscure bits of plastic trim for 15 yr old Fabias nowadays, so i'm collecting that over the weekend. I've decided to give the seat another going over with the upholstery cleaner and getting it as mint as possible, then it will be going back in the car next week - carefully as I don't want to scratch up the new plastics in the car and on the seat. In other news I have done a "thing".... In the correct Skoda Mint Green as well. Initial reaction on the Whatsapp group chat was a little less than complimentary, but it's not actually destined for the car. Just a hose reel for the garage wall. Pity really as it certainly is a stand out colour. More soon

Don’t know if this is any help, but this is the link to current SE tech brochure https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/8db7a881-8116-4b2a-9848-47cfcb6ee0ea

This was the website as in Jan 2021 : https://web.archive.org/web/20210118045441/https://www.skoda.co.uk/new-cars/octavia/hatch-se-technology (hatch) and https://web.archive.org/web/20201129125047/https://www.skoda.co.uk/new-cars/octavia/estate-se-technology (estates) I have managed to mess with some weblinks to find these brochures dated 10/20 and 11/20. I'll keep looking for 2021. Annoyingly I did have it, but I must have deleted it when clearing up my files. SKODA_SE Technology_Brochure_17112020.405d3df9a454e97fcbd26581ebfb04cc.pdf SKODA_SE_TECHNOLOGY_Brochure_OCT2020.babc8faabba52cef456bc62016bf84a4.pdf

Hi You're gonna love this. I am the 2nd owner of a 2007 Fabia VRS. Previous owner was a gent of advanced years who drove it like he stole it from the word go and never went very far in it. I became the 2nd owner in 2017 with 27000 miles on the clock. About 10 miles later the turbo went, sheared off on the exhaust side. New turbo and ALL the ancillaries replaced. June 24th 2021, turbo gone again with 53000 miles on the clock, sheared off on the exhaust side again. WHAT THE F**K. Vehicle is totally standard and has always been that way. Full service history at dealer and independent. If anybody has any thoughts on what could be a possible cause, I'm all ears.

I actually think those louvres look OK and suit the lines of the bonnet...

If there were Briskoda awards for procrastination and lengths of projects I'd like to think I'd be in with a shout? Anyhow (insert normal excuses here.....) I'm still doing bits and bobs with the car. My not so secret plan with the interior was based around a custom trimmed Cobra Suzuka GT racing seat for the drivers seat only, but trimmed in the OE Fabia vRS material. To cut a long story short I've been dicked about by the trimmer something rotten so that plan has been shelved for now. However, this does mean that i could do some work on the original drivers seat. Now bear in mind the car is 15 yrs old, had 4 owners and has done 108k miles, the standard drivers seat had held up pretty well. There were no holes, burns or tears, and coupled with the fact that the original owner specified factory fit heated seats and side airbags, meant they are worth looking after. I could feel the metal rod from inside the bolster foam under the material so it would have only been a matter of time before it would have worn through the cloth and ruined the base material, and i felt this when i bought the car 7 years ago. For once i thought ahead and in 2015 I purchased a new seat foam base from TPS, and it's been stored in the loft ever since ( and been through two house moves!) The seat foam bases are now no longer available so I dropped lucky at the time in getting one. Using the excellent guides on here i stripped the base material from the foam, cut the hog rings off and gently eased the heated pad off as well. Quite surprising how bad the foam was when uncovered... The new foam was then offered up I gently glued the heated pad back in place at the front and back edge and then set about the tricky task of securing the fabric back over the now very firm foam with the hog rings and hog ring pliers. There is certainly a knack to doing it but once I had worked that out it went ok. I secured the seat fabric back round the edges of the seat frame and built the seat back up using new plastics on the bases, again sourced recently from TPS. The finished construction of the seat base is now complete and the original fabric is now stretched tightly over the firm foam base, exactly how the seats were new. Please be aware that the seat itself is now due a deep wet valet, where all of the dirty marks will be removed, this is just to show you how the base looks with new foam :-) I'm currently repainting the seat runners so when they are refitted and the seat has been deep cleaned I'll present the finished article.

Not for me but good on you; nicely done!

In mine, i used the following; Type: Fleece Manufacturer: YBX Serial: YG12345678 The battery is a YUASA YBX9027, on the side of the battery is a serial, it's a large YG followed by 8 unique numbers, i used that as the serial to put in the coding. I used YBX as the manufacter so it'd be obvious to anyone that looked at it that'd see YBX9027 on the battery and YBX so theyd know if it was the one i'd put in. On the app i used, it offered a few different battery types that i could select, efb, fleece, agm binary, plus others, fleece is what germans call agm batteries aparently and is what we should select for AGM drop ins, so i used that. For approx a week after installing and coding the new battery stop-start didn't function, my dealership said that it does this so it can first learn if the new battery is actually healthy or not and get itself an idea of a state of charge etc. My old factory efb battery got to the point where stop-start stopped working one day and never came back, i fully charged it with a CTEK and changed the serial number to force a battery relearn and start stop came back but only for a couple days till it stopped again and never came back after that 😂 the new agm one has been rock solid ever since.

It is not available to download as a pdf from the Skoda site but it is available from here :- https://carmanuals2.com/get/skoda-karoq-2021-owner-s-manual-116538

New to me, went to buy my second Karoq but this was in the show room and couldn’t resist even the wife was impressed and before my coffee was drunk I had bought it

Slowly but steady getting the car how I want it to be. Some OEM+ parts still waiting in the basement for time to install them. Now sitting on 9*20 et41 Bentley Continental Mulliner Phase 2 wheels with 245/35/20 Pirelli Pzero tires (Narrow, round edges, wheel protection and soft tire) and Eibach Pro lowering springs.