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Small update (make the most of it fellas!) Rear seats back in after 12m of being in dry dust free storage, check out the magnificence that IS the middle head restraint... Drivers seat all in on the repainted subframe.. Oh and we got the engine running.... for a bit, till the lift pump in the tank decided it quite liked retirement and handed me it's notice. Dang it! New lift pump is on it's way and i'll try and get some video of it actually running.

Update - after fitting a new OEM Continental MAF from Skoda Stourbridge (£150) pretty much all of my driveability issues have been cleared up. In case anyone is thinking you need to have the MAF totally fail before replacing it. I never had any MAF related error messages, nor any huge starting issues - my issues were fuel economy, poor fuelling just off tickover and almost imperceptible surging on part throttle.

Just a couple of pics of my (finally fitted) new ARB. I have changed the fixing to the softest position (towards rear of car).

Officially the end of the Thread for the Golf, I am returning to Skoda Ownership and have just put a Deposit on an Immaculate, Corrida Red, 66 Plate Octavia VRS 230 Edition which I am very much looking forward to getting! Will make a New Thread as and when

afraid not @Wino, regardless they fit just fine. Fitted the B8 Bilsteins back and front with Eibach lowering springs and the car handles a lot bette rnow

Usually it is best to go for the correct oil for your vehicle and in your case it is VW 504 00 and that is usually 5w 30 FS III be it fixed or variable service intervals. You can do oil / filter changed at up to 18,000 - 20,000 miles. VW 508 00 so 0w 20 FS IV is not the correct oil for your car.

...I'm just trying to help. Pedantry is a symptom of an underlying condition, broadly, it's the expression of a desire for a level of certainty and precision which cannot realistically be achieved.

Never actually made a post like this before but here we are. Anyway, as the title suggests, I want to do some wee odds and ends to my Fabia just to make it... erm, great? I mean, better would be a good start. Throughout this project thread, I'll be documenting all the things I've done to my Fabia to make it "great again"! This tale begins late February/early March. At this point, I needed a motor vehicle of some description as I couldn't stand driving my Mum's Dacia Duster anymore (was like driving a tower block). As a learner, it was really intimidating. So the pair of us decided it was best if I were to purchase a car for myself, I frantically scrolled through Auto Trader looking for something, most of my results were clapped out Yarises (Yarii???) and Citroen C1s. Now, there's not a fibre of my being that'd want to be in a C1 or a K12 Micra for that matter. I had a budget of £2,500 and it needed to be within 45 miles of my house because I couldn't be bothered travelling too far. I came across two Fabias, both about the same age, same trim, about the same mileage but almost £500 of a difference. I decided to go for the cheaper one, plus it was red over beige and looked better in the interior since the red one was all black on the inside. So here it is, my '56' plate Skoda Fabia 1.2 HTP Ambiente with the BME engine code and 51,000 miles. Here's a view of the dashboard from a few days after I got it. When I received the car, it drove home perfectly for 40 miles and then by the time I got to the Halfords car park and went to reverse into a space, the damned thing started bleeping and then wouldn't start for a good few minutes. This took me about a week to fix after plugging in OBD readers, taking a Jeremy Clarkson approach "hammer" to fixing things and then my Grandfather (an ex-motor mechanic) finally piped up and said "have you checked the ground connectors from the battery in the body?" And therein laid the fault, the ground connector was really dirty. Since then, it's just been adding wee bits to the car and looking after it. Currently waiting for a pipe so I can remove the oil from the sump to replace it with my fancy Mobil 1 stuff I've ordered. More things that I fit will be posted here... should I remember to update this .

Hello, I'm looking to see if any other Skoda owners have experienced issues with fuel leaks, due to the bolts shearing on the fuel rail assembly, compromising the seals around the fuel injector. I'm sorry I don't have photos of the damage in situ, but the problem was hidden behind the inner manifold, so I had to leave it in the capable hands of my local independent garage. My Rapid Spaceback is barely 5 years, old, and has only done 38,000 miles, so I wasn't anticipating any issues with the engine for a while yet. It's had an easy life. For reference, it's a Rapid Spaceback Se Tech T 1197 Petrol Manual 6 gears Engine code CJZD980068 I bought it second hand, from the Skoda dealer who had sold it new to the previous owner in 2016 - It had about 23,000 miles on the clock. Last week, there was a strong smell of fuel in the passenger compartment, which I initially thought was from neighbouring cars, as I had the windows open. The smell lingered, so I checked under the bonnet, but could so no obvious issues. Then an EPC engine light came on, and a short while later (under 2 miles), the fuel light flashed up, saying I had only 50 miles capacity left. Then 200 metres later, the car just conked out while idling at the lights. I ended up being stranded on the after-school run, and had to be rescued by my neighbour with a 5-litre can, which got me to the petrol station and tentatively re-fuelled. It was lucky that I'd already booked my annual service and MOT, and the distances were short, so it was into the garage 8:00am next day. No fuel had leaked onto the ground while the engine was off overnight, so I was prepared to start the engine cold in the morning. But as soon as the engine was running, there was a clear trail of leaked fuel where I'd driven - My friend followed me as back-up, and said the smell of petrol was overwhelming. The trails and puddles I left when I arrived at the garage are in the photo - It was pumping out. All this happened very quickly. From first smelling fuel, to getting it into the garage, I covered no more than 10 miles, tops. I am just incredibly relieved it happened on short local runs, and not on a long journey up the M1. The mechanic thinks it happened in quick succession - One bolt came loose, then it sheared, then the slack allowed the vibration to start loosening a second bolt, and petrol just flooded out. The seals were damaged, so in addition to buying new bolts, I had to buy a new seals set, so the parts bill came to £53 from an approved VW supplier. The last two bolts were still tight. This is is not something you'd expect from a car of this age and mileage. It's possible there's a design flaw, and the action of the injectors hammers the bolts loose over time, but you would have to remove the inner manifold to check them, and that's not a routine service. Equally, the bolts might not have been torqued down correctly at the factory, but it seems strange it would take 38,000miles for that to have an impact. I'd love to hear from anyone who's had similar problems, as I'm intending to write to the Skoda dealer, and try and get the £53 parts bill paid, if nothing else. If it hadn't coincided almost exactly with my annual service, the bill would have a lot higher. Thanks for reading, Paul

As your L&K will have LED headlights all you need do is select travel mode under the lights menu.

I think on an L&K you simply need to set 'travel mode' via the infotainment

better sleep, just not enough of it 😴 also had to do the normal breakfast stuff bring spud sr to summer camp go to a site meeting. so, i chopped the top loop off the route, and dropped through part of the "Eagle" segment stump run.. good god that thing is a pig even with the better bike. ill do it again someday and take a few pics... anyway, 2k shorter route, bang on an hour. and a decent time up the hill.

The reversing camera is one of my favourite features and wouldn't want to be without it now! I also get the dynamic parking lines on mine which is a nice touch.

We don't know NSW except Sydney and then just about 50 km around the harbour. One of our WA trips, five of us spent a week driving up to Carnarvon and back with a , the highway was so quiet if we saw a car on the horizon coming the other way we'd have a competition to see how long it would be before we passed. And we used to rate the quality of the egg and bacon sandwiches in the roadside cafes. Then on a trip down to Albany we'd count the dead kangaroos to pass the time. I've a third cousin 20km from Byron Bay who keeps sending photos of goannas nearly a metre long.

https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/octavia/2021/#trim-15tsi-eudm-148 You find here all the data

I mostly agree with you. My Fabia was bought used (at 2 years old) which already had the 17" wheel option fitted. Personally, had I bought it new, I'd defintely have kept the 16" standard wheels and just fitted premium tyres.

@WayTooTall - I would also phone all of the local Skoda and VW dealers in the area; make them aware as well. If you can also find the VIN, make sure the Police have that number and that the VIN is registered in the national lost/stolen database. Finally, phone up Skoda Customer Services and ask them to put a marker on the VIN to state it is lost/stolen in case anybody trying to register it.

Unless you have either DSG gearbox or DCC Suspension there isn't much to notice.

Don't worry Wino - I didn't take it that way After posting on one of the threads you directed me to, I've just had a comment for a helpful chap in Denmark, who's mechanic had the technical spec back from Skoda. To quote Erik DK: I received a copy of information about the manufacturer's work to resolve the problem. The problem affects 1.2 TSI and 1.4 TSI engines (CZE*, CZD*, CHP*, CJZ*, CYV*) New equipment was implemented in the production process to automatically tighten the rail bolts in week 25 of 2018. Sold vehicles with the problem need to have the rail, injection gaskets and all rail mounting bolts replaced. The rail mounting bolts should be tightened to a torque of 10 Nm. I'm lucky, as my mechanic has a friend who works for Lookers Skoda, and he rang him to double-check the torque needed, before doing the work. I'm just concerned I should have had the rail replaced, as well as the bolts and gaskets. But if the issue is with the tightening of the bolts in production, why would a new rail be necessary?

Paul, Have you noticed that the problem has been reported in other countries besides the U.K.? I live in Denmark and I recall reading about at least one car in Mexico. My post in this thread from October 2020 includes the technical details my Skoda authorized mechanic gave me about the problem. The mechanic charged me half the normal price for the labor and parts and I suspect they were compensated by the Danish Skoda importer. Best regards from Denmark

You're welcome, and no harm at all in starting another thread, awareness of this needs to be raised, I feel. I didn't suggest a search as a way of saying "Why did you post this?" but more because I didn't have time to link you to several similar threads by digging out each and every one that I could find. Yours is also excellent in terms of detailing the parts used with photos etc. The very fact that there is such a thing as a 'repair kit' for this problem seems like sufficient evidence that Skoda/VW group are well aware that there is a significant issue. The sheer cost of recalling all of the possibly affected vehicles is probably why not much seems to be happening in that direction.

I had original Bridgestone Potenza 205/40 R17s on mine that were over 5 years old. When I had the MoT in January, they warned me thst although they were well inside legal limits (only 60% worn), the walls looked stiff through age and there were cracks appearing. They were rated E/C/72db. I've replaced them with Donlop Sports Maxx RTs (rated B/A/68db) and they give an infinitely better ride, are noticeably quieter and give much better fuel consumption. Hooray!

It's impossible to get to the flap from inside the car. There's an outer and inner wing structure, and the filler tube and flap sit between them, with no access from inside the vehicle. The mechanism inside the lock has a tendency to bind, especially if there's no lubrication in there. The solution to the problem is to press the flap in gently while you unlock with the remote. With some trial and error, you should be able to find the right amount of pressure to relieve the mechanism and let it pop open. Once it's open, get some light machine oil onto the lock plunger and work it in and out a bit until it moves smoothly with no resistance.

Do a search on here for the phrase "fuel leak" in quotes like that, and you'll see that there are two or three threads about the same thing on just the first page of results. Alarmingly common. Recall-worthy really. Someone will probably have to die before it happens though.

I bought 389 today in north east Scotland, Near Aberdeen.

If the removal tool has a flat on it to clear the installed sensor, then it shouldn't be essential.

Tyres are the OE Kuhmos.

Oh, OK. See if there's any response over the next few days. I think many/most Karoq owners have fitted NextBase from what I recall from posts the past year. They've done a big marketing push on the new range across the retailers on the High Street over here. (Where are you in NSW? I've a cousin in the heart of Sydney - and yes, I know it's a big country, I've another cousin in Perth and been to both places a few times!)

If there's a strong enough stink in the engine bay (like from a major fuel leak...) it'll get through to the cabin air intake no matter how well sealed. I believe the OP might be referring to when his injector rail came loose due to a broken screw?

On a mk1 it's like this, and I suspect a mk3 is very similar. You can see the recirculation flap in the centre, horizontally, that turns through about 90° when you want recirculated air, rather than outside air. When everything is in place, there's a rubber seal along the front edge of the 'water box' as it's called, which separates engine bay air from the air that's drawn into the cabin through the cover by the wipers. The underside of the bonnet seals against this rubber.

At a guess, P14AC00 is probably related to the exhaust flaps being stuck or obstructed? Not sure if that would cause the other codes

Just dont buy this one. If your piston is stiff this will slip

9-10 months might be correct now, but there is a risk the specifications will change with these long lead times. TDI is now a rare car in UK, last months car sales figures show just 8.1% were diesel in UK, previous June was 15% so diesel is now a niche in UK

https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/new-2022-skoda-fabia-enters-production-ahead-uk-launch

You will need a windback tool. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114581339679. Don't buy the other cheaper types they dont have the strength and slip. This has a spanner fitting on the piston the others dont. My way not necessarily the right way is, release cable from caliper mechanism and then grease up the sliders good, remember position of caliper piston, wind the caliper back in fully, then without pads or caliper bolted on, attach cable and pull handbrake up a few times to get piston moving again past the point of where it was when you started, then apply grease to piston, you can get some spray grease further on by lifting rubber seal, then wind back again and repeat a few times.

Cut the bushes?

Before you splash out £300+ for a new mirror check for a second hand one first. Try eBay or any of the online car breakers for a price. If the ideal mirror isn't available (wrong colour, or some damage) you might still be able to use some of the undamaged parts from your mirror along with a secondhand one to make up a good one for the car.

I'm also in the peaks with the same car, boom! Also consider taking out fuses 19 (infotainment) and 30 (SOS module) for over ten minutes, I had errors when I first picked mine up and since trying this after a few days I've never had any SOS errors since. I might have the numbers for the modules mixed up (had a few drinks), but be careful with the 7.5amp fuse as it's super tiny: I dropped mine and it was a ballache to find

i did try to find this info on google before posting - good job there are knowledgeable people like you are about !

Hi folks, please forgive me if I waffle on but thought I’d create a post following an extremely positive experience with a detailer I’ve just used. Having had cars detailed previously by others and suffering a level of OCD when it comes to looking after my car, I can’t tell you how chuffed I am with Advance detail. I contacted Jon at Advance after noticing a few little bits on the car with it now being little over two years old. The car itself was owned by Auric Goldfinger, a very active member on here and it’s clearly been cherished. Over the years unavoidable minor marks have been inflicted from washing, the gloss b pillars have inevitably marked and a good general decontamination was needed after going through the dealer used car prep. The car was booked in and within a few weeks Jon was able to get me in for a silver detail which was then protected with Gtechniq Crystal Serum Ultra, something only available through the accredited network. In my opinion Jon and his colleague Luke have done a fantastic job and I hope my pictures do it justice. The paintwork looks like new, the panels feel like glass, the beading is fantastic and he’s even added Paint protection film to delicate areas. I want to make it clear I’ve not received a discount on this process and I’m in no way linked to Advance detail. I honestly think that when someone does something just right that you pay for it’s worth the recognition. If nothing else hopefully you like the pictures, if my review helps one person who’s on the fence of what to get done or where to go then that just a bonus. All the best folks.

....which actually do fit the Scout and the VRS, although not officially supported. 😁

Something new is coming! By Remus! Sounds quite nice I must say! https://www.facebook.com/RemusSportExhaust/videos/805905713434782

Says someone driving a diesel

Did a bit more research......its not a simple job if u want the memory function. The seat electric motors are different between seats without memory function and seats with Memory function. Passenger seat motors will only have two pins not the four required for Memory function. The driver's seat with memory function electric motors will have encoders fitted. If ur feeling brave, here is some Russian reading, done on a Tiguan. Part 1 Part 2

i have this and takes a little work to fit but works

2021 update OK, so slow progress for many reasons, but still tinkering with this one. Believe it of not, the engine is actually in the hole.. Fluids going in... Nice shiny mounts and solid shifter cable bushings.. Air intake and shield Interior back out as laying in the full Ibiza harness for total integration Kinda looking the part now. Cruise control (of course) Climatronic heating system in place and heated seat harness fitted One day it will be done, just don't ask me which one.

Latest Updated Speedcams - June, 2021. Here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( June, 2021). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams June, 2021.zip

I’ve just bought a new Octavia DSG and love it. I already know I will never buy a manual car again.

Hello I think this is a mutual aid forum and not an online store I wouldn't take money if I could help you. After the change you have a problem ? which lights you have a problem, with headlights or taillights. Or you have problems after coding ?