Leaderboard

New wheels for my steel grey superb, love these new wheels

Just DIY it with a fire extinguisher, innit.

10 minutes ago the stewards of the British GP effectively told RBR to go f##k themselves, rejecting their proposed appeal. Apparently the new "evidence" was video of some simulations of the incident cooked up by RedBull... The tone of the stewards response was verging on accusing RB of bringing F1 into disrepute.

It was the availability of the W3W app. that persuaded this dinosaur to swap his dumbphone for a smartphone. W3W could be a life saver.

Plagiarised from a post in another forum but too good not to share here: "Red Bull gives you whinge"

Yes, I've seen posts with gunk. Mine didn't seem to have any inside the housing either. Next time I've got the car up I may need to add another 100Ml of haldex fluid though! Thanks

I am ashamed of saying this but its the truth. If somebody approached me an politely asked for my help explaining what their problem was as best they could in what is probably their second language I would move heaven & earth to help them. When people approach me and speak in the manner that the OP was written I switch off and shrug my shoulders, eperience has taught me that these types rarely if ever appreciate what people do for them, never any thanks or acknowledgement but no surprise there as if they cannot express their desire I cant expect them to express their gratitude. As an immigrant myself having to live & work in a foreign language I fully understand the difficulties that other nationals may have but I also know that when writing or typing you have all the time in the world to think, reflect, consider your words, use a dictionary or google if need be, there really is no valid reason to write in the manner you might speak to your pals in the pub, operating with a limited vocabulary in a second language face to face I know how important it is to be polite, respectfull etc it is to get the other person on my side to interpret my basic and often incorrect speech and to want to help me and not dismiss me. I am ashamed to admit that I see many requests for help or info on this forum that I dismiss because of the manner they are written in their mother tongue where I would normally be the first to respond.

When I changed the oil my pump filter wasn’t blocked but there was a lot of gunk inside the pump hosing, so clean that part either. I changed the o-rings and bolts of the pump, but I don’t think these are mandatory - you can change them every next cleaning. After starting the car for 1-2 mins, and then turning it off, I had to add additional 100-150ml of haldex fluid. I used Ravenol AWD oil, but any other specified for the Haldex gen 5 should be good.

Thanks guys, I went for a Bosch carbon filter.

Dramatic sky this evening...........

Dude, just stop with the 'lol' already, this is a serious forum for serious advice otherwise everything just collapses into a clown show of slapstick idiocy where people deliberately give you the wrong advice just for the 'lols' so you end up trashing your engine. Ok.

Hi Lambo1, whereabouts are you based? Loom problems are very common, especially in the section that flexes every time the door is opened, I guess that's where the repair was done? A new door loom bought and fitted shouldn't cost £400 though, that sounds very pricey indeed. It could be moisture related, and corroded connections between loom and motor module, but inspection and cleaning are the only way to test that really. Could also be water ingress into the connector(s) at the a-pillar, as it's only the rubber bellows/boot that waterproofs that area, and they can be misfitted easily if removed for inspection/rework. Check fuse number 11, if you haven't already. However: the window motor modules in your car are from an era where they have a poor reliability record, in my experience. The same types are used in very early mk2 Fabia, late mk1 Fabia and VW Transporter and Polo 9n3 models, all of which suffer similar problems. The units in drivers and passenger front doors communicate with one another down a single-wire 'LIN bus' data connection, which doesn't connect in to the car's overall diagnostic system, so errors/faults in either module are 'invisible' to the car at large. I'd be very surprised indeed if the fault is with the body control module, as it has very little to do with the window motor operations. The driver's side module is the master and the passenger side is a slave unit, problems most often seem to be fixed by replacing the master unit (unless loom/fuse causes are to blame, obviously). They tend to be correspondingly more expensive secondhand, and with fewer available. I expect yours to have part number 6Y1959801. There's a suffix 'SK2' in the parts catalogue, but its not clear what this means, and they don't print it on the part number label on the product, only on the box it comes out of; so secondhand purchases can be a bit 'hope for the best' unless the seller is crystal clear about which vehicle the part was removed from. @Bertie90 has recent experience of this stuff, in a similar age Roomster, so he may be able to offer some tips that haven't occurred to me.

As there seems to be a lot of people asking questions about this lately, I thought I'd put together a quick guide showing how I fitted my reverse camera to a facelift VRS hatchback. They way that i've fitted this will apply to most models, with the key differences being the size of handle (based upon car model year) and whether hatch or estate (but this is just inside trim differences), there may also be wiring loom differences for earlier cars or none VRS models. I've benefited from info from these forums so hopefully this will be useful to others. I am by no means an expert & I won't be able to answer all of your questions, hopefully others will chip in and can add other info as well. First of all, this is the camera that I ordered for my MY 2017 VRS (Camera A/Handle A): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000230897829.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.40694c4dTEPT93 (link may no longer be valid when you read this so screenshot below) No programming is required for this camera and it supports dynamic reverse guidelines Tools: Trim removal tools would be useful, but otherwise plastic tool that won't mark your car, or screwdrivers or similar with masking tape over the end. A T20 torx head tool is required if you have a hatchback to remove the pulldown boot strap Cable rods are very useful, I couldn't have fitted through the roof lining without. Stereo removal tools unless they come with your camera kit Cable route - I went with an OEM route for my cabling, following existing cables through the roofliner and out to the back as show by the red line below. The camera: The first thing that I did was to check that the boot release switch was working on the new unit - there's no way you want to wire this in and find it is faulty. You'll need to start removing the boot trim to access it. Remove the plastic clips from the lower boot trim- this consists of a few plastic clips which easily pop out with trim remover/screwdriver. There are 8 of these on the hatchback. After that start removing the upper plastic trim, this simply requires forces to release the metal clips. You don't need to remove all of this for now, but it will all need to come off later Remove the lower upholstered trim covering the tailgate. More metal clips - work your way around. You'll also need to remove the pull down strap with the T20 torx head. When this is down you should be able to drop the boot liner which will give access to the boot release handle. This can be awkward to remove, but can be done by pushing in the clip on one on the ends whilst also pushing down on the handle from the inside (ignore the clips along its length) - it should then pop out. Repeat for the other side. Unplug the harness and plug the new handle in - check the release switch works. You can either now push the new handle in until it clips, or leave it out to test the video connection later before fitting. To wire it in Remove the glovebox (open, rock left to right whilst pulling up & you'll hear the bottom clips release. Raise the glovebox lid up and inside the housing and reach in and remove the dampening on the left hand side) Use the stereo release keys to release the multimedia unit. The kit used here comes with a replacement harness that sits between the original one and the media unit & includes the video feed cable. Some people have removed the upper glovebox section to provide more access, be careful not to unplug the airbag connector if you do this. This can be fiddly, but I found the best way was to lie on my back with my head in footwell looking up at the unit from underneath. With the media unit slid fowards this gives access to the harness. It's the large one at the bottom and there is a locking connecting that needs to be pushed backwards to release. Check how it works on your replacement harness. Unplug old harness and plug it in to one end of the new one, push the harness in to the void and plug the new connector block in to the media unit. This took me a while to get it all to fit in. When done you can now test the video feed to the rear camera before your start wiring it in permanently. I took the camera cable over the top of the fusebox cage & out through the side panel I then ran the cable up the A Pillar to the roof lining and all the way to the end. Cable rods were really useful at this point, especially to get around the B pillar , and to go from the end of the roof liner through the cable exit point behind the rubber trunking where the original boot cables are. You can also run the cable in the trim above the sill and work your way back up to the roof lining on the C pillar. When you get to the end of the roof lining you'll need to unclip the rubber gator at the top of the boot so you can get the cable out of the roof liner and in to the boot via this gator. If you install the same way as me you only need to peel the roof liner down a few cm, being careful not to deform or damage it and you'll see the OEM cables behind. Once you've got the cable this far it's a case of feeding it through the rubber gator, up the side of the boot and over to the handle; connect the video cable and tidying up any spare cable. Everything should now be up and running. Retrace your steps to refit your trim. You now have a fully working reverse camera, activated when reverse is selected and with dynamic guidelines. The parking sensor guide now shifts to the left of the screen the same as an OEM reverse camera. I will come back and re-edit this tomorrow and resize pics as it's getting late. I'll tidy up any errors as I see them so please don't jump on me straight away!

After looking at a sequence on GB News this morning What3words was featuring its advantages in finding you in a moment of crisis. Emergency services can use this app to locate victims in need of medical attention or you can find a destination with the three words not knowing the postcode. It is a clever concept and avoids trying to explain where you are if the recipient also has the app. Rather ingenious British first.

Hi guys. I have to say, I've had to say goodbye to my Mk1 L&K. After over 7 years of ownership, it was time to move on, especially after being tucked up by a national franchise which then tried to sue me after I left a 1 star review on Trustpilot.....Anywaaay, that's another story. I'll still be on the forum as my wife has her Mk2 which she spends no money on so there are problems to fix. You'll all be saddened to learn I replaced my Octy with a Volvo. My excuse was I needed a car but couldn't find an Octy with the spec I wanted at that time. It did take me a year of looking to find my Mk1 in the 1st place y'know. Anyway that's that. Take care chaps. Till we meet again

I've never been able to connect once to this app. One plus 8 pro. Samsung s20. Just won't happen. Seems widespread so don't loose any sleep.

I have worked out that if I stop breathing for 5 years I will have a CO2 credit big enough to regas my home aircon system! I am practicing my apnée but fall a little short at present. My reaction to that chart, - 'kin ell!!!!

PM

So today I tried out the new parts, first the control unit which didn't make the blower spin but the voltage was different than what I measured before so I lubed the blower and now it spins again! The flap motor also seemed broken and my replacement part had another 'arm' to move the flaps so I ended up swapping the motor and one cogwheel of the new part and got it working, happy days! On to the next problem, p0068, already tried to swap out some sensors which didn't solve the problem so i am going to let it be tested for vacuum leaks, fingers crossed. Thanks for all the help!

Thanks mate..

^ beat me to it! -- i did it the other way with my yeti!

Probably not but I’d bleed them anyway but that’s just me

Go to a proper broker near you and/or research imported car insurance.

The edge of the tread of our P7’s on ours are pretty terrible, but no sign of sidewall cracking.

Then my only advice would be to: - buy 5l of G12evo coolant - top-up the coolant before each journey with G12evo (not water) - try and stick to short journey's - check the oil regularly for any signs of coolant mixing Not much more you can do I'm afraid... I've had to do it for the last two weeks on my car and will continue for the next few weeks to confirm the repair as good.

Pretty sure the EA211 is the 1.5l petrol

It doesn’t look broken, you have to engage the hinged clip first then flip it down to usual position. part No. 1K8955435

Double check the mayo in the oil and also give it some beans to see if any odd coloured smoke (or any smoke!) comes out the back.

The Evo tyres were announced in Oct 20 , so hopefully you may get some impericable evidence. I've placed all the info that I found. To be fair I haven't noticed any difference since fitting the Evo in February, mind you I don't keep records of fuel consumption. My range is between 360 (local and heavy acceleration) and 430 (prolong cruise, long range mway / dual carriageway) miles. For which I'm very happy with along with excellent handling in the wet , dry, grip in fast corners / bends. The choice is yours, if any doubts don't get them, my choice in future will be A005 Evo.

thanks pagan image . I;ll show your comment to my wife!! : )

Would you like a copy of mine ? 😉

Having had both a Superb and an Octavia, I can say that the Superb doesn't feel significantly different in size when driving it

'Do they mean 'open' or 'unlock'?' Looks like this is to open. Here's the routine to open the glove box.

OT, just messaged the seller on eBay to see where my Ice-tec brake pads are for my E-bike. Not OEM Shimano which can be £20 plus a pair but 'copies' / snide ones at 2 pairs for £18. These last about 600 miles on the rears and 800 miles front. Which is about the same as a cassette and chain on one of my biked which come in at £150 a time. Another is on originals at 2,500 miles People think servicing and maintenance is expensive but nothing compared to some E-bikes with the likes of 75-90 Nm and without regenerative braking carrying around 120 kg and the bikes weight. Rolling along on the flat, powering up hills, but much need of slowing down as they start getting above 30 mph going down hill.

This is folk law. The gearbox adapts over time to different conditions and inputs. Temperature, clutch wear, engine output...... At no point does it actually learn the drivers style. Yes you can reset the adaptations and many have reported a positive experience afterwards (me included). Double checking with the eco mode coasting is a surefire way to check if the modes are changing. There have been a few reports over the years of VAG cars mode selector fails so it does happen.

Despite the fact that Red Bull have what seems to be a superior car and a good chance of winning the championship, The post-race scuffling shows how desperate the team is to overcome years of Mercedes dominance. Christian Horner is usually calm and logical and I am sure he’d prefer to win on the track, not in the stewards room. This weekend should be fun.

Final result

Forget about the item! Just realised the postage cost...!

The exact scenario that played out at Copse on lap 1 of Saturdays sprint race, the day before. Hamilton was on the outside that time, but was mature enough to back out if it rather than crash?

Yep found the haldexrepairs website and watched the Volkwizard video, both very helpful, cheers, was wondering really if OBDEleven works ok for the pump prime and the rest after the filter clean and oil change. Cheers

If it is the slave cylinder leaking I would imagine the fluid level is likely to be falling. The master cylinder can leak fluid past the seals and back into the reservoir, and under these conditions the fluid level will remain constant. This could give a clue as to where the problem lies. Good luck in resolving it.

Sorted....Thank you for info 👍

Yes they are Skoda part numbers but they are still made by Mann or Mahle or whoever. I think, looking at the pictures again, the 653 is the activated carbon and the 669 with the yellow in it is the all singing antibac. Good luck choosing!

Had hatch version for 5 months/7500 miles. Very pleased with overall, comfy, quick, handles well generally, well equipped. I'm getting around 47mpg avg around country A&B roads, around 51 mpg avg if doing longer trips. Airbag fault light once and oil sensor light on for a few days, but all reset. Software wise can be a bit slow or glitchy at times, but not that serious for me and generally resets if you switch car off/on. On-line updates do slowly seem to be improving the glitches and just been booked in for a 'software recall' by the dealer next week. Otherwise just rattly tailgate which with Mechanic bootlatch adjustment and me greasing the sliding side-plates, is fairly sorted. Had mk2.5 tdi vRS, and both 2wd and 4wd mk 3 tdi vRS, this is the best version I've had. Great car overall.

Solar panel behind automotive glass will have much lower output, anecdotally by as much as 40% through clear glass. Your window might be tinted too, further reducing it.

Another piece of original police equipment sourced and fitted. It's the steering column mounted PTT (push to talk) button, made by a company called Sepura. Its used in conjuction with a mic and when pushed it allows the driver to speak on the cars police radio. (the mic should also mount on the shroud where the small white square is in the picture) The original mounting holes were still in the steering column shroud and lined up perfectly with my replacement

Thanks very much for the helpful replies. A few points in response to some of the comments: I'd say our current car has generally been reliable, if not perfect. It needed a DMF at 55k which was done under warranty, so I did the clutch at the same time. So only 14k on those. I suppose one of the reasons I'd consider a change is that the older the car gets, the more likely it is that other (significant) mechnaical items may need replacement. But I'm not sure whether there's an accepted 'cliff' that these mk3 Octavias go over, be it an amount of miles or age in years, where things tend to start going wrong. Put another way, does anyone have experience of the 70-100k or 5-7y ownership period for these cars? Warranty is due to expire in October, and I'll be happy to use an independent after that - why wouldn't I, really. It's a good point that cost to change would be more than the impending bill. For that, cambelt, water pump, and rear discs will all need doing and I will do the pads at the same time as the discs. I think that's over £800 of work (so £1k is an upward approximation) but it would be significant, and not the sort of spend to incur on a car I was about to change. The service itself will be free to me (goodwill). So I think it's a case of keeping at least until 7y/ 100k if I do get all the work done, to get value from that spend. If I was swapping, it'd likely be for a Superb. Would love a 270 but that's probably a little out of budget so likely a 190 or 220; I prefer the latter and a switch back to petrol. I'll be getting a smaller car, a toy for short trips and fun in the next six months, so our family car will no longer need that element in the same way, so I could even get a 150, but I know I'll wish I hadn't come overtake time! But in the way the vRS meets all of our needs currently, the next two cars will be more specialists for their main role. I'm not in a position to buy new, and can't stomach the depreciation anyway. One day maybe! And as it happens, we're in exactly that position with the houses!

Mine that was ordered on 5 February has finally arrived. It was built in March but since then has been waiting for a part. I took delivery of it yesterday....Hooray!

Make sure you don't have your hand around the handle when trying to lock. For a whole I was holding the handle and poking the indent with my thumb, which doesn't work. Now I poke it with my index finger and it works every time.

https://onlyrevo.com/blog/1-4-tsi-twincharger-known-engine-issues-to-be-aware-of The Elephant in the room that VW Group just ignored with the 1.4 TSI / TFSI 132-136kW Twinchargers 2009-2014/15 is Borewash. VW Group never admit to it, or that Long Life oils and Super unleaded petrols can be an issue, just how much detergents does an engine require? Funny how the Superunleaded even over 100 octane is not really an issue if you do not use the Oil VW Group Recommend. Also funny how remaps were better than the Mapping / Engine Management that was & is OEM with the Twinchargers. Not REVO's though, they got theirs wrong. They were as bad as VW at owning up to that. Over 25% of the CAVE engines had failures and like for like replacements failed as well. VW Group changed mapping, breathers, oil spray jets and discontinued the engines after 3 years and still had issues and again played about with mapping. All through this it cost many owners lots of money when they had no warranty cover and even those that VW Group sold extended warranties to then they claimed 'Known issues'. There were known issues and the Management / Seniors / Engineers know who was to blame, it was them. A CEO who was an Engineers Engineer. As in Deaf Dumb & Blind to being the person signing the engines off. Like with the Defeat Devices as well.