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And the original radio, a Cleartone CM9000. This will not be operational, but I will try to wire it up just so it can be turned on to light up the display. Its not permanently fitted in these pics as I still need access to the wiring behind it.

Compared to a Skoda Main Dealer it is a bargain. So they would be if on Fixed Service & Maintenance Pricing. £185 Oil & Inspection Service. £60 Extended Scope. £215 DSG Oil Change. £45 Air Filter £35 Pollen Filter £70 Diesel Filter. ? Was the Brake Fluid change due, or have they tested the brake fluid? £65 @ Skoda. £ 610 at least. Then they offer, Oil Flush, AC Service £140, or AC Cleanse £30, & tell you the disc are 80% worn some places. Spark Plugs are £100 plus. BRAKE CHECK IS FREE. So what is the EXTENDED SCOPE CRAP?

How fast things move... we've just put a deposit down on a 17-plate Sportline hatch, the 220bhp version (same engine I had in my previous car, a Mk7.5 Golf GTi, I presume?). All being well it will be bought and driven home next Wednesday. We'll take our kid-crap down, load it up, have a drive and hopefully take it home there and then. It's a nice spec, white, 19" alloys, rear view camera, power tailgate, road sign display, CarPlay / Android Auto, all good stuff. Huge thanks to everyone for sharing your thoughts and experience, I really appreciate it and it definitely helped us make our minds up... assuming we don't struggle to fit everything in on the test drive, that is And with that I should apologise in advance for any dopey questions I start asking about it on the forum!

I was quoted £200 just for the DSG service... so Doesn't seem too bad to me.

Good progress there in showing the car some love - and a hoover!!

Hi all. Heres my 2018 octy vrs 245 in meteor grey. Had it 6/7 weeks now, been back into skoda twice already, one with an intake problem that turned out to be a vac line had come off (which happened on my drive home!)and earlier this week to have the waterpump/housing replaced 🙈 Hopefully that's the last of the problems for a while.

Just stick "CBZB engine" into the ebay search box. Loads on there I would think. It's actually not that hard to swap whole engines in/out of cars, certainly less work than trying to repair one that requires a big stripdown.

Lock the car with the button on the key fob and within 5 seconds touch the door sensor, this disables the kessy. After this the car can only be unlocked by pressing the button on the key fob. No need fro tin boxes or faraday pouches. tom

Me again.... Just to prove I've not been totally bone idle this summer, I have completed an engine bay restoration on my 1969 Mini as well. Although the car was restored "professionally" in 2015, the engine had been simply removed and replaced in the repainted shell, so I have gone over it and replaced the following.. Radiator Waterpump Thermostat Coolant hoses Heater Hoses Fuel Hoses Full Service Painted the block and rocker cover in BMC Mid bronze green New chassis plates And she now looks like this.. Very please with the little thing! Polar opposite of the Fabia, but that's not a bad thing some times? Matt

This is my Skoda Scala SEL. I absolutely love it, such a fantastic hatch. Project_A.png shows the Skoda gallery pics of how it left the factory. I opted for the exterior design pack consisting of full panoramic glass roof, extended tailgate glass, full dynamic LED headlights & fog lights. Additionally I also went for the 18" Vega wheels. Project_B.png shows the mods I am going to make, and have started on. To date I have swapped the front badge for the Monte Carlo black F9R 90mm badge from superskoda. The rear 'Scala' badge has been removed, and I have replaced the chrome 'SKODA' with the black Skoda badge again in Monte Carlo black. Added the genuine mud-flaps too, which was a really great addition as they are very inconspicuous but really help protect the metallic paintwork. I already have the Monte Carlo black magic grille frame to go on at some point soon too. I also ordered the Eibach pro-kit springs to drop the ride by 30mm. And I have just got a quote back from my local Bodyshop to refurb/paint the wheels in gloss black, the brake callipers in Rosso red to match the tail lights, and the rear bumper diffuser in black gloss too instead of the textured dark grey that it is now. So I am thinking that I might wait until the spring and then get the alloys, brakes, diffuser and the Springs done all at the same time. Like the idea of adding a black gloss tailgate loading protection strip too, to help connect the black from the glass down to the diffuser, shall see about that one. Shall keep you posted on how this little project goes. Cheers

Not entirely, but it's my favourite price; free.

Check and clear the drain holes along the bottom of the door

That's no mileage at all. I'm on 12500 now 😳 I agree on the sound actuator noise, although not turned it off yet with an OBD machine

Super chips do offer a warranty…. IF you have manufacturers warranty left and your manufacturer don’t help - they will…. if it’s a 2015 as I understand they aren’t interested in helping sort a problem (I guess they can’t tell if it was there before or not?) (I had no fault lights etc before) they have offered a refund on the bluefin but that’s about it. it’s a Tdi, well serviced as far as I can tell. New belts etc when I bought it a few months ago…..

If the dealer has a firmware update - which they will do - it may fix the instability of Android Auto. You might get lucky with the Skoda update portal but generally maps are free and available but device updates never are. If it service effecting then Skoda should fix it under a warranty claim.

It can only affect vehicles with the systems installed, so many of the 30 million plus UK vehicles still without the new tech will be trucking about for a few more decades.

This year it was a minor service, DSG service, brake fluid change and MOT for me and I almost fainted at the 580 bill at the indie that I use

Agreed KennyR but this is rather a jab on and off again instantly. Not the same as a jab for power which you continue to hold.

Steer clear of smart motorways then. If it depends on the traffic sign recognition (TSR) fitted to my Superb then I would end up going 20mph everywhere near a built up area as it's better at reading road signs down the side roads to my left rather than the signs straight ahead. If someone rear ends you its the responsibility of the person hitting you from behind. (Unless you consented of course ) Of course you missed the bit that says it can be overriden, just push your right foot down, just like ACC or PCC.

I recently bought a scala but went for the 1.0 due to some problems I read about the 1.5. Skoda may have resolved these now so it might be worth double checking. Will you be going manual or dsg?

Yes; you may have to give it up to 1_000 miles depending on driving style.

see my progress thread... im matching you nasty hill climb gradients in a couple of spots

Yes there is. All EVs I have come across have this feature. Go to the vehicle charging screen, there is a slider at the bottom of the screen to limit the max. state of charge. The slider also shows current state of charge, so perhaps you have not seen the limit 'blob'. This is an image of the screen I got from the internet, at the right hand side of the green bar at the bottom, you will see it says 'Charge to 90%' - this is the slider that can be moved so it says charge to 80%

Yes, in the car on the charging screen there is a slider to set your desired max charging limit.

What they say is quite right.

Good, quick, and half the labour rate of a main stealer, using genuine parts.

Obviously. I think Truckbus and I were responding mainly to Expatman's assertion that once an engine is bust, the car is history.

Hi buddy, quick update. The garage I bought the vehicle from dismissed it being the dual mass flywheel despite admitting they did not take anything apart; they merely listened to the engine. I had the clutch opened today and was provided with proof it is the dual mass flywheel. Warranty was unfortunately useless and I had a bad experience. My acquaintance has offered to do it for £650, including replacement of the clutch (crush two birds with one stone). It is booked in for August 24th. Car is fortunately driving fine and should not fail in the meantime given the dual mass flywheel issue is intermittent and not on its last pegs as of yet.

Plenty show on ebay. Getting good ones is something different, but if you can and it goes in and all is well you are laughing, if it has to come out and the seller honours the guarantee and they provides another one then more labour, but it is only money. Preventative Maintenance can cost less, like if the timing chain is pre upgrade then maybe seriously consider having your own engine done and not waiting until you need another engine and having to do a timing chain on it.

Hi, all. Just did the HBA tweak, courtesy of @wg100 fantastic walkthrough. The only thing different on how to solve the 'Headlight Range Error' is how the setting is labelled. The version I used was 21.3.0, so some options looked different. The error was annoying and I thought I had to revert the settings back and must have messed it up. Ross-Tech's support is amazing. They responded to me within 24 hours. It works a treat now and the error has been cleared. I have also gotten the hang of using VCDS. Here is the last step update fs you are using a newer version of VCDS (Module 55 Xenon Range is gone) and the Address 4B - 04 Basic Settings options that you need to click will have different labels: It will still have [*IDE03675-MAS09980*] and [*IDE03676-MAS09980*] beside them but the labels are: 'Headlight adjustment Start 1 [x]' previously 'Basic headlamp setting' click Go! to activate the setting, no need to readjust your headlights, physically, unless you are also after that and Stop, once done. 'Headlight adjustment Stop 2 [x]' previously 'Acknowledge basic setting' click Go! to activate the setting. The position should now be learned and the error should disappear. Click 'Done, Go Back' and don't forget to clear any fault codes. I have attached some photos and videos to help those having trouble. Hope this helps those still having trouble or using a newer version of VCDS. The support team of Ross Tech are top notch. Thanks, Dana. Video.mov

Would generally agree, but a good s/h engine with a warranty would only be in the £500-£900 arena plus fitting, so really no need to write-off ... its only a collection of bits after all and a good used engine can be good value.

Message on the Skoda configurator today….

I wouldn't worry too much about doing those three mods. I managed and if I can be successful then I'm sure you'll be fine. I followed Bowders' guides for all three whilst looking on the other 1.8t forums for any pitfalls that might be out there. As long as you've got all the bits needed before you start then it is all fairly straightforward. My car passed its MOT last week without any issues so if done correctly then the 1.8t engine still runs fine. If you want to know anything before you start, just ask and if I know the answer I'll help.

Hey, my wife have it on her scala and if you watch your road you don’t see them but if you focus on them they are visible. It’s a bit wierd when you driving during the night because all lights ( traffic lights, car’s breaking lights ) are a bit blured but you can use to it. i don’t know how it is gonna be during the winter but that was the main reason. I am sure its gonna be useful and will be better to have it than not. It was cheap option. There is automatic option on the climat contral so it can turn on/off itself when needed.

No, the ABS fault would not cause a flat battery, but a flattening battery can manifest itself as an ABS fault (personal experience with a sticky alternator clutch).

My mistake - I am confusing the "boot net programme" with the "partition net". The mount points are probably hidden under your roof lining - be bold and hack holes in it to find them!

Ahhhhh… yeah, just ignore me Ken; migraine hangover and very long day… 🙄. Given the dozens of fault codes that were thrown up, I’m certain that any one of those dealers would’ve had the car for 5 days, found far more “issues” related to “the problem” and replaced associated parts to determine if they were right. The conversation with the service advisor would go.. ”Errr, so why have you replaced all these parts?” ”They we’re all shownimg they had a fault, so we had to replace them”. “So it wasn’t just one problem then?” “No, they were all faulty.” ”So they all failed at the same time?” “No, some failed earlier and some later.” “And you didn’t think to speak to SUK on my behalf - the car has only covered 30,000 miles.” “No. One unit failing causes another one to fail.” Then at the bottom was the figure of £1,489. I’ve been there on one occasion on our MKII at a Skoda dealer I’d used for a number of years which had been taken over for a third time, by a major group. Enough said…

As the owners manual says, May use more oil in the first 5,000 km. so now the car has done over 7,600 km. So checking oil with VW Group Engines is something needed, especially when collected new or after services as below the correct level is not unusual. & the cold checks are good to see if there is oil, but the checks should be done with the oil at operating temp. So that needs done now with the VW 508 00 oil you have used put in. That is 0w 20 FS IV, and not VW 504 00, 5w 30 FS III PS Forget about the past and TSI's and TDI's that were before the WLTP / RDE and VW Group going to 0w 20 FS IV, Plenty 'Burning Oil' threads in the sections over the past 3 years for Kodiaq, Karoq, Octavia and Superb were owners never checked the oil in a 1.5 TSI. There is not a problem, just the need to maybe top up oil early on depending on how the vehicle is used, do not wait for warning lights or messages.

I picked up my MY20 Superb Combi IV on Tuesday. It is a “Style” with a few added options, as it was an ex-demonstrator from the Skoda dealership. Very happy with it so far. It has replaced a 2004 E46 320d Touring, which broke down for the first time in my 14 years of ownership the day before it got replaced.

Finding one in your country should be easy. If not, try at your Russian friends The hard part will be making the gasket really flat. I have often used REINZOSIL as the secret weapon to get a perfect vacuum seal.

Garage couldn't book me in til the 23rd.. Bit of a bummer, it's all doable by us we just don't have the space (and time's in short supply too) Just starting to get the parts together for a PCV, EVAP and SAI delete (the latter 2 have been software deleted by the remap) - I have zero confidence for this so will be seeking guidance (supervision) from a chap who I think knows what he's doing..

Skoda Fabia MK1 Center Bore: 57.1 mm PCD: 5x100 Thread Size: M14 x 1.5 165/70R14 5Jx14 ET35 185/60R14 6Jx14 ET43 195/55R15 6Jx15 ET43 If you're looking for non-standard sizes, 185/65R14 6Jx14 ET37 and 195/55R15 6Jx15 ET43 from the Skoda Roomster are two possible options. https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/roomster/2006/

The first shows where the box is wedged and the second is behind the head unit showing where the wiring loom is placed.

Dual purpose..? And not found on Combi with roof rails... https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/accessories-assembly-manuals

@JR RS is right. I followed his advice and I received the comprehensive report. Mine was 8 pages but I also downloaded all the manuals - In total 79 files. Probably overkill on my part but as I had paid for a 1hr account, I figured I would download everything I could. See the folder structure attached -

This chart helps explain the VAG coolant timeline, comparability and corrosion protection. Here's the link to the full presentation:- https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10138342-9999.pdf

Hello Skoda enthusiasts Here is my MY18 Octavia vRS on the day I first laid eyes on it 2 weeks ago 😊

So first wash yesterday. Still waiting for my snow foam lance to come so went as follows: Initial jet wash to remove as much dirt as possible 2 Bucket wash with Gyeon Bathe Wheels cleaned with Valet Pro Bilberry wheel cleaner Dry with air blower / drying towel Inspection - Paint feels smooth to the touch and there are only a couple of places with light swirl marks Door shuts, Boot shuts, Window rubbers all cleaned with small brush and Bilt Hamber Surfex HD to remove door hinge grease and some slight mossing in the rubbers. Rinse Gyeon Wet Coat applied and spread with microfibre cloth Rinse My initial thoughts from the rain the other day was it already has some form of coating on it, so once the clean was done and i'd rinsed it and noticed the beading was quite good i decided i would leave it until closer to winter before i apply the wax i have bought (Bilt Hamber double speed). Pictures are at the end as it started raining

Glove box lid. Solved with a little bit of sticky backed foam. The weedy plunger springs in the dash are meant to hold the lid down on its catches - but it's all plastic on plastic with no damping or softness, and scope to move L/R / up/down a little. Hence the noise.