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Sorry my gut feeling is walk away and look elsewhere. This car has not been cared for.

Hi Folks, my summer trip is over. We did 4500 miles from East of the UK to Newcastle, (ferry), Amsterdam, Berlin, Warsaw, Gdansk, Warsaw, Gdansk (you can see the pattern), Warsaw, Amsterdam, (ferry), Newcastle, home. We got almost fully specced IV60, three people on board and a hell of luggage (because we haven't seen our families for almost two years). Long story short: I would buy this car again. Long story longer: I would also modify the spec. So from the start. I love how this car looks, in-and outside. Let me say that Newcastle border officers were so amazed that THIS is Skoda that they completely ignored the fact that we were carrying WMD (7yo with an urge to resume his Rammstein playlist). At every single charging point (If we were not alone), someone was there with questions. It looks crazy good. Now, interior. We selected Lodge to have a bright eco-friendly (as much as possible) interior. I love how the fabric knee rest stays soft and cool on extremely hot days (yes, sometimes I am driving in shorts). I used to hate front cupholders, I am still unhappy, but thanks to a really spacious driver zone, I can live with door pocket bottle holders. The rear bench... well, I can just tell you that thanks to EV architecture and no middle tunnel it's marvellous. I can sit behind myself without any problems and I can switch Isofix mounting while being inside instead of running around the car. top three packages that you 'must have'. 1) driver assistance - OMG. I love it. really, got the Plus version, this greatly reduces your fatigue on the motorways. All you have to do is to control the environment and squeeze the wheel every 45-60 seconds. Other than that it's almost an autopilot (on motorways). Two negatives: sometimes the system reads speed limits from the past (roadworks?) or from the road above/below. Trust me you don't want to feel an emergency stop to 60 km/h while you were going 164km/h. The second, system is VERY lane centric, so if some safe-distance-sceptic driver wants to cut in front of you, your car will start to slow down only when his beemer hit the middle of the lane. too late. Same case with bikers. The system tends to completely ignore them if they are overtaking you by going next to the edge. 2) light and view - IF you plan to travel at night this is 'night and day' (sorry, I had to). The lights are amazing. One weak spot. IF your motorway got mid-size lane separators, you will blind truck drivers, as the system will not see their main lamps, so will not cut the light. Sorry folks! 3) HUD. shows everything you need in a better way than the main cluster. Sadly AR nav works only with terrible onboard navigation. Now, what I would change. I could any day forget about the sleeping package and trunk controlled towing hook to get a motorised tailgate. I hate this hatch. I have to close it twice to make sure it's closed only to discover it's still open when I start the car. In the past, I was the person who said 'ignore the battery size, charging speed is more important'... and no, or.. yes and no. Because I had to go across Germany (twice) and Poland (four times), I was forced to use motorways, and with a 60kW battery, it was like 1:10h of driving 45minutes of charging, rinse and repeat. The 60 is a perfect size for everyday use, but as soon as you plan some truly serious distances, you should consider a bigger battery, especially if in your country you don't have a lot of really fast chargers. Meeting Tesla owners in a queue for a single 50kW charger is not a pleasant experience. Because I don't plan to repeat this trip next year I am fine with my 60. But I was really surprised how hard is to find a fast charger when you need one. What I miss: * rear bench domestic plug (for the UK spec). Seriously, we paid the same price, continental Europe got the plug, we got a cover. On the longer trips, you really want to plug in your laptop while you are charging your car for the sixth time. * A/Ced compartment. this is an EV. having a small cooled compartment in the glovebox or in the armrest is something that sounds like a natural idea, you don't have to care about power! but no. * 40/20/40 split and adjustable rear bench. Like I showed in my previous posts you lose a lot of space because of rear seats angle. If you could make them more upright the trunk would be so much more useful What I don't like, also known as 'the first world problems list': * laura. * central cluster, lucky for me I got HUD, but listen. On your central cluster you can't find information about the current status of the battery (in percentage), you can't check your energy usage (in m/kW or kW/100km), but you can see that you have a charging port on the right!! and that you can have D or B mode. No seriously. You have a constant reminder that the charging port is on the right. Like you forgot about that since last charging, it was yesterday after all. * right thumb fidget spinner. If you buy a driver assistance package the controller under the most powerful finger of your body is obsolete, to compensate that Skoda decided to hide ACC distance controller at the top of an additional controller on the left side, constantly hidden behind the steering wheel. Why? Because **** logic (or because we decided to reuse some parts from older models). * shutting down the car instantly after raising your butt from the seat. As a UK driver on my continental Europe trip I had to leave my seat to pick up motorway toll ticket, parking entry ticket, buzz myself in, pickup my sweet chilli twister, venti latte macchiato with double caramel, triple espresso and pumpkin spice at least four times a day. and after every single raising my bum off the seat I had to wait two minutes to reconnect my android auto, resume navigation, restore ev notify. because the car wanted to save 0.0000000001kWh of energy. * laura. * single wireless charging mat without any ventilation - self-explanatory. after 10 hours I decided to switch to cable. I could not afford to get my phone exploded. * touch-sensitive control for the roof. the worst solution ever. if only some assistant could open and close the roof for you, or wait... * laura - the most useless part of the car * rear window wiper - you waste 80% of liquid because the jet is so much on the left * front window jets - fine in the UK, but above 120km/h they hardly hit the middle of the window * shortcut buttons - they work as a separate layer, which means that if you press clima button, and then you want to switch to android auto with the favourite bar, you have to close the clima menu by clicking the button again even if the shortcut is still visible. * user experience of infotainment - best example, climate control. you got three controls for each seat, blue minus, a numeric representation of temperature, red plus. Now my expectation, if I press blue minus, the temperature is reduced by half of the degree, if I press the number I got a numeric selection, the red plus increase the temp by a half degree. Easy, right? NO! pressing anything turns the screen to almost black, then you can select temperature from numeric selection (while plus/minus automatically change temp by half deg). You were watching navigation while your wife decided that's too cold inside? bad luck. Another example? When you turn your parking assist on, sometimes (quite randomly) you got a settings menu that covers the top of the screen, just where your fronts sensors and camera are. So you can't see how close you are to a concrete wall, but you can launch the menu to change the brightness of the screen. Seriously? The same thing with the air purifying, when you start the option you see the HUGE logotype in the middle, you touch it and nothing happened... because the button is in the top left corner. just close to the continental driver, and the most hidden place for the UK driver, because who would check the spec of the car, right?. Another one? If you turn the climate off, in the top right corner you see the vent with the slider, which suggest that you could just touch it and turn the climate on, right? No, you have to find the climate button behind your cups, press, turn it on, press again to turn the menu off, why... oh why... (also, I am available if you are looking for user experience quality tester) * laura even if the negatives' list looks extensive, this is nitpicking (with a small exception for laura, she is really useless). I still consider this car as the best in the segment in June 2021 (still have to check Ioniq 5 and EV6). I truly miss P2 acceleration, but then I remember the single cupholder and I am happy with my choice. See you on the road!

A few from today's visit to both Charlecote Park and Hidcote Manor

Are you an Automotive Industry expert in value or reverse engineering? Do you even know what different processes, materials and components are used to make your auto dimming mirror glass? Do you know what percentage of vehicles sold are fitted with that option? (makes a big difference in inventory costs if a low volume option) Whilst it is a safe bet that there will be profiteering going on without the above info you cannot say it is just because it costs more than the "a bit more" that you say you appreciated.

I think leaving it here will be attract a greater audience.

I'm happy if the mods want to move this thread somewhere more appropriate/useful.

I did look at that, but it's specifically for Skoda dealers. I haven't seen any entries for independents. Hence the new thread. If you have spotted any in there, give me a shout.

It may do if the Admin / Mods move this thread to beside the Skoda Dealer Section. We can ask.

I had an intermittent low Keyfob battery issue. Initially tried three brands of 2025 cell but could only get it to work with a 2032. I put put this down to cell impedance variations between manufacturers. This lasted about 3 months and then after changing again still gave occasional errors. That was until I had to invoke emergency access procedure in Sainsburys car park one day when the key became dead with no red led. Changed battery again and key still dead. So I assumed that the key itself was dying and potentially expensive (key plus reprogramming etc). In for a penny, I dismantled as much of the key as possible (not quite sure how to access the pcb entirely which is what I really wanted to do). Then gave all access holes in the key a gentle blow with the airline as there was evidence of dust having got into the key past the seals. After this the key has worked faultlessly for the last 6 months with the same battery that was supposedly dead. The conculsion I draw is that some dust must have been somehow shorting out the RF or uproc and causing the malfunction. This caused a higher current drain from the battery - meaning only a lower impedance cell (higher current capability) could drive the circuit until it was prevented from operating completely. So for repeated early low battery failures - try internal cleaning of the pcb. (OBD11 incidentally only showed the' intermittent key battery' error logged which I reset and has remained clear since.)

AFAIK this two plastic with velcro thingie are the part of transport pack. If you don't have transport pack you got solid plastic side pocket dividers (and thats how I am using my velcro parts right now). I've also got two velcro bag holders from Lidl. more than enough No, but I plan to do that this weekend.

Just in case anyone was wondering, there is never any need to reformat an SD card. Just delete what's on there.

A few from today’s testing at Brands Hatch.

To be honest I’m sick of people moaning about delivery times. If you’re expecting things to arrive as fast as they did pre-covid you are delusional. Everything is still up in the air and will be for a long time. Shortages of many things are expected to last well into 2022, especially electronics but loads of manufactured goods too. I am sure the dealers/manufacturers are pulling their hair out trying to get these things sorted but a lot of it is out of their hands. It doesn’t help with customers constantly badgering them who appear to be wilfully ignorant of the times we live in. My advice? Accept it isn’t going to come on time and plan accordingly and stop complaining OR cancel your order and get something else. It’s not a life and death thing, it’s just a holiday you are going on, be grateful you are able to even think about doing it, there’s a lot of people in much worse situations right now. Get a grip. At least if you cancel my car can have the chips which would have gone in yours….

After being pestered by my Daughter for the need to charge a phone in the back seats of the car. I thought I would go OEM and fit the rear USB sockets in the centre console as my model of car didn't have them. Parts needed; I ordered these from www.skoda-parts.com, it took 1 week to deliver the parts from Europe. The only thing I didn't order from Skoda was the actual USB unit, as it worked out too expensive, it was £45 for the usb and extra for the cable. I got this from aliexpress instead as it worked out around £20 with shipping. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000454430275.html?spm=a2g0o.search0302.0.0.48f2d710S9U8kD&algo_pvid=d763b097-fa97-4d9d-84fc-cabfb2587725&algo_expid=d763b097-fa97-4d9d-84fc-cabfb2587725-26&btsid=0b0a555a16212796060048113e0e8c&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ These are the parts I ordered from Skoda parts. 5E0 863 284 D 9B9 Storage Compartment - Rear Škoda 1 × 21,84 EUR 5E0 863 229 9B9 Cover left Škoda 1 × 0,53 EUR 5E0 863 230 9B9 Cover Right Škoda 1 × 0,53 EUR 5E0 857 346 A 9B9 Cover Škoda 1 × 7,49 EUR 5E0 857 289 F 9B9 Center Tunnel Cover Škoda 1 × 11,09 EUR POST14.00 Shipping 1 × 16,80 EUR Total price incl. shipping and VAT 58,28 EUR The only tools i needed was a Torx tx20 bit and the ratchet to put it in. Small flat screwdriver to help remove the 12v cigarette lighter socket. A plastic trim remover might also help, but never needed one. A lighter socket removal tool would probably help too as I had to press the tabs in quite a bit, to get the socket out. So I first started off in the rear of the car moving the front seat forward to give me more room to work in, this is how it looked originally. First I removed the ashtray, just open it up, and give it a gentle pull towards you, it should unclip nice and easy. There is an area for an LED at the back of the ashtray which i'm guessing is used in some models but not in mine. Next up put your hands in the hole where the ashtray was up towards the rear vents, just give them a gentle push from behind and they will pop out, put these to one side. Next up remove the 4 torx screws shown in the following picture. Then again I just pulled the trim part towards me, you may use you trim removal tool there are two raised parts which clip in near the bottom shown in the picture. Next up round to the front seat, move the seat back as far as you can just to give you more room to work in. The next thing i did was to pull the bottom trim down this just need a gentle pull downwards and it pops out. again just to give a bit more space to work in. (be careful if left in place when sliding the chair forward as it can get caught up). Following that time to remove the cigarette socket, (It may be a good idea to remove the fuse or take the battery wire off as this socket stays live when the car is off and if you slip with the screwdriver may cause a short). There are two small black tabs near the top which need pressing in to allow the cigarette socket to out of the black housing. I had to press them in up to the point I thought I was going to break something I ended up bending the metal slightly but bent it back before I replaced the socket. So maybe the removal tool is the easier option. Next you want to unplug the socket from the wiring, and remove the black plastic ring. The loom you get with the USB plugs, just plug between the cigarette lighter plug and socket. so you can now plug in the loom to the car wiring and pull the red plug and wire down through the hole. and for now out of lower trim that was removed. The black plastic ring can go back over the new plug. And the cigarette socket can be plugged back in. I left it out of the trim for time being until i could test the usb. After this i fed the wire with the red plug for the USB unit back past the inside of the seat. Then moved into the back of the car, moving the seat forward to allow access. This bit was quite fiddly as my hands are quite large, I fed the wire up with my right hand and had my left hand in the hole where the ashtray was as far forward as it could go under the air vent pipe. it took a couple of tries but eventually felt the wire and managed to pull it through. out of the rear trim. You can see in the picture where it is going up into the trim (it looks like it is looped around the chair but it isn't I haven't pulled it taught yet). Then it was time to screw the new trim piece in put it back making sure it clicks in place then using the 4 torx screws that were removed screw them back in. Next up I clicked the USB unit into the small trim piece, it only goes one way and the aliexpress unit was a perfect fit, I could now plug the red plug into the unit and test it worked.! ....It does. So carrying on I routed the wire where I thought it should go, there was a small hook on the left hand side so used that. and clicked the second trim piece into place. the blanking pieces were next they were straight forward and only go in one way. And the vents were next make sure the vent pipe is seated right as it is loose in there and I had moved it when squeezing my hand in there. These just pushed straight back in make sure you hear them click in place. Also the new smaller Ashtray just clicks in the same as before. Following this i tucked the wire up inside the centre console, and clipped the front piece of trim back in place again it just clips in place nothing too awkward. and pushed the black clip and cigarette socket back into place. The last picture looks patchy its because i had just wiped my greasy fingerprints off of it.!! And Voila one happy Daughter can now charge her phone in the back of the car.

Many owners agree that the original 480x285mm radiator is not sufficient for hot climates. Especially in the height of the summer, there are some situations that limits the car's performance because of overheating. Such examples are: - Hill climbs over 50Km/h. If the car can handle the same hill when outside temp is 20ºC and you can't climb the same hill when temp is 30ºC because the temp gauge is constantly rising and you decelerate to 25-30Km/h to prevent overheating. - Driving on a fast road, the speed is over 90Km/h and the the temp gauge is slowly rising. You can't keep the pace. You have to slow down to let the engine cool down. More importantly the expectation of overheating makes you nervous. Scope of this upgrade: When there is enough natural air flow and the engine is not cooling down. If you have problem with traffic jam overheating. That is usually a problem with inadequate fan performance. Especially the 4 blade old Skoda fan: https://pasteboard.co/KeVy0sf.jpg seems to be insufficient in hot climate summer time. Felicia full fan cover (6U0121207) with 6 blade tropical fan (165959455G) will do wonders. My aim here is: - Create more thermal headroom so driving in summer is less worrisome. - Being able to install a standard thermostat and fan switch so the engine can run as its designed temperatures for better efficiency. - Lessen the burden on the radiator fan so it won't die sooner than expected. - Better cooling capacity for sustainable high load scenarios. Objectives: - Keep it simple. Whole system could be mounted easily without cutting, drilling or welding. - Use as fewer parts as you can. - Keep it cheap. - Use standard and worldwide available common parts. - Make it sturdy yet, flexible enough to accommodate engine vibrations. Parts list: - Skoda Felicia 1.6 radiator: 6U0121253. Active cooling area: 590x285mm. (Perfect fit to the standard mounting points of the old radiator.) - Felicia full fan cover 6U0121207 with a six blade fan 165959455G if you don't already have it installed on the smaller 1.3 radiator. - Renault Clio/Kangoo cooling system pipe: 7700869985. (Only a little modification required) - Lada Niva 1700 upper radiator hose: 21213130302500 - 2x Heavy Duty Pipe Clamp (Bracket Type) With Rubber Profile. Size 3/4". Like this one: https://pasteboard.co/KeVOuuC.png - 3/4" Hose joiner. Like this: https://pasteboard.co/KeVPidg.jpg - 10cm long 3/4" car coolant compatible hose. - 2x 20-30mm hose clamp. - 2x 28-48mm hose clamp. - 2x 6x15 bolts. Allen head or hexagon head recommended. - 2x 6.4x12 washers. - 2x 6.4x20 washers. - 2x 6.4 split lock washer. - 2x M6 nuts. - Depending on your cable setup, cables and/or connectors may be required for thermal switch relocation. How to install: - You start by removing battery connections. Important for safety! (I prefer removing both. Negative first, positive second. Installation is reverse order.) - Drain the coolant. Don't let it run away even if you are not planning to use it again. It's poisonous. Dispose with responsibility. - Remove all radiator hoses and electrical connections to the fan. If you have anything else attached to radiator/fan assembly for structural support, remove them too. Fan shroud bolts on the bottom side and they are hard to remove so you will have to remove radiator and fan assembly together in one move. Have a helper to hold cables and hoses out of your way so they won't be damaged. Especially watch for the upper radiator hose. Don't scratch it with sharp metal edges. Watch for where you are holding the radiator. Thin radiator fins are VERY prone to bend. This will reduce efficiency of the radiator. You will see two L shaped metal brackets on top of the radiator. When you remove those two bolts, whole assembly will be ready to pickup. Radiator removed: https://pasteboard.co/KeWe6Jr.jpg Check for your rubber bushings. If they are worn or missing, replace them. - There is a plastic air deflector at the right side. Installed from factory as a place holder for future upgrades like a larger radiator or an additional radiator for oil cooler. We need that extra space right now for our larger radiator. So it needs to be removed. Plastic wind deflector: https://pasteboard.co/KeWftsS.jpg It's secured in its place by plastic pins. One pin is easily accessible through engine bay but other pin is only accessible if you remove the right headlight. Old plastics become brittle so don't worry if you break one of the pins like me. If there will be need arises to return to original setup again. Pin location can be drilled and a seperate plastic pin can be used. Air deflector removed: https://pasteboard.co/KeWkFv6.jpg Notice the red arrows pointing the holes in the front frame above. There are holding clamps for headlight height adjustment hose. We will use those holes for our pipe clamps. - Before installing the Renault pipe, preparation is needed. We won't need or want this bracket on this side of the pipe so it needs to be gone. https://pasteboard.co/KeWmYju.jpg It's edge welded. So only a little cut will set it free. Be careful not to damage the pipe. Bracket removed: https://pasteboard.co/KeWomEr.jpg This is the place where our hose clamp will clamp so smooth out the surface. I also applied some nail enamel to cover the sanded area. https://pasteboard.co/KeWqOOY.jpg - Now the unexpected and annoying part with the pipe: https://pasteboard.co/KeWrnGi.jpg I've discovered this after cutting that bracket so couldn't return it. It seems to be a lazy manufacturing attempt. Check yours before buying. I've did my best to correct it. https://pasteboard.co/KeWuosA.jpg You are looking inside of a 30mm pipe. - Mount the Renault pipe using pipe clamps: https://pasteboard.co/KeWA8se.jpg https://pasteboard.co/KeWB6wE.jpg https://pasteboard.co/KeWBXqs.jpg All connections are loose at this stage. You will need to adjust whole assembly with the hoses attached. Insert bolts from front with the order: Bolt, lock washer, small washer, car frame, pipe clamp, large washer, nut. Luckily you won't have to remove front bumper or anything to reach the bolts from front. You can access them from bumper grilles. https://pasteboard.co/KeWG46c.jpg Access to the heads is not straight though. You will need a long flexible extender. I used two screwdriver magnetic bit extensions. https://pasteboard.co/KeWH2uX.jpg When used multiple, they give you a little flex but I recommend flexible extensions. - Remove fan and its shroud from old radiator and bolt them on the new large one. - Install the radiator fan assembly to its new place. Watch for rubber bushing spacing below the radiator. You must feel them to align properly with the radiator feet. Screw in the two bolts holding the radiator from top. Radiator installed in its place: https://pasteboard.co/KeWM7u3.jpg - Install top hose: https://pasteboard.co/KeWN0m8.jpg - Now the Lada niva hose comes to the rescue: https://pasteboard.co/KeXihyW.jpg You can see the parts marked as A,B and C. Use the end with sharp 90º turn (marked as A) between radiator exit an Renault pipe entry. Use the other end (marked as B ) between Renault pipe exit and engine entry pipe. The tricky part here is, carefully adjust the lengths of the hoses before cutting. If unsure, cut longer. Adjust whole assembly at this point. Important note: What is the C part for? That's for noise canceling. If you have a bottom splash shield like my car has, the chances are you will end up with a terrible rattling sound after finishing the project. You will have to drain the coolant again and insert that hose part before inserting part B. Part C should be inserted to the bottom of the engine entry pipe so it will fit between splash shield and metal pipe. https://pasteboard.co/KeXo7vg.jpg https://pasteboard.co/KeXovQH.jpg https://pasteboard.co/KeXprBT.jpg Part B and Part C marked: https://pasteboard.co/KeXrLEK.jpg - You haven't tighten the pipe clamps yet. Don't forget them. When adjusting the spacing of the Renault pipe with the main hose connections, tighten the pipe clamps when your setup is satisfactory. https://pasteboard.co/KeXtZO8.jpg https://pasteboard.co/KeXuP94.jpg https://pasteboard.co/KeXvegp.jpg - Coolant tank connection is easy but I made a mistake here too. 1.3 radiator coolant tank entry point diameter is 20mm but coolant tank exit diameter is 25mm ! I bought 50cm 3/4" coolant spec hose but couldn't fit it to the tank exit. It won't stretch that much. I didn't know tank exit diameter was different. So either use one piece 1" coolant hose or do it like me and use a hose joiner at the Renault pipe secondary entry point. 1" coolant hoses are harder to bend so I preferred this way. I didn't cut the original tank hose just a small extension at the end. So use the 10cm 3/4" hose here and join the hoses together with 3/4 hose joiner. https://pasteboard.co/KeXBGYf.jpg - Don't forget about the thermal switch and its cables. I use PTFE thread sealing tape on thermal switch rather than torquing too much. - Double check every connection. Every hose clamp. Don't forget the coolant draining plug. I use PTFE tape for that too. - Fill your coolant slowly. Check for any leak. Bleed the system properly. - Connect the battery. - Fire up the engine and test stationary for any leak. Check temp gauge regularly. Place your hand on the top radiator hose and wait for thermostat opening. You will feel the heat when thermostat opens. From that moment check by touching different places of the radiator and the bottom hoses and pipes you have built. Both for feeling the heat and any leakages. If anything seems suspicious stop and fix. Radiator dimensions for comparison: https://pasteboard.co/KeXJjNX.jpg https://pasteboard.co/KeXKIAf.png https://pasteboard.co/KeXLhHxC.jpg Initial test results shows it is noticeably better at the long hill I have to climb every day but how much? I'm planning to record a similar video like video before with similar conditions to compare the the results. I hope you find this post useful.

Juast to let other know, I went past an open filler cap at night after filling the car and broke off the lid. It was easy to get the part off the Skoda dealer and not very expensive. The hardest part was trying to understand how to unclip the lid. Just push the black base plate away from the raised metal fitting on the lid and it slides off. May be quite hard but once you know, quite easy! I attach relevant photos.

Small diameter increases the turbulence and the velocity of the air, as the diameter increases it accelerates the air too, which is good for helping the turbo spool quicker and earlier. The diameter however is definitely the limiting factor. The MST elbow tries to help by going as wide as possible right from the turbo inlet. Good for max power, but not great for spool and low end torque. The ECS elbow takes a different approach, slowly dropping the diameter of the pipe from the 65mm at the top, down to about 38mm where it meets the turbo. This helps responsiveness and low down power, which is noticeable vs the MST comparing one after the other. Being a big chunky silicone pipe also means it doesn't fit super well into the space available (its very very jammed in tightly). The disadvantage of this one is that our turbos have an inlet diameter of 41mm (the 1.2 and small 1.4 turbos by mitsubishi/mhi), so the ecs pipe's 38mm at the turbo end is technically a little restrictive for top end power in that regard, though as i've not got access to a dyno, all i can do is test by top speed reached at the end of a given distance, which was the same between both MST and ECS ones. The fact that it is cast aluminium means it has two other downsides, first being heat soak, aluminium absorbs and conducts heat much better than plastic/silicone, and so radiant heat from the engine does get that elbow quite hot which will negatively impact intake air temps. The second downside being accuracy of manufacturing cast parts, the post-casting machined surfaces (turbo end and top end to airbox) are as you'd expect, perfect, but there's variance and a lot of scope for impurities and other manufacturing irregularities. There's a third less important issue with this and that as it's designed more for the (large 1.4) IHI turbos with inlet diameter of 38mm, they are made with the o-ring on a different face compared to standard. The IHI has a much larger face for this o-ring to seat, but our MHI ones do not, so this ring only partly seals. Given the ring still touches all the way round and the flatness of the surfaces i don't see this as much of an issue anyway. anyway, aside from that, i have a little announcement of sorts.. I am in the process of designing and manufacturing a plastic elbow (similar to ecs, but fixing all of its downfalls), to replace the standard one and allow use of the OE airbox and most aftermarket induction kits, and provide a best of both worlds in terms of performance that shouldn't restrict top end power at all. My first prototype is promising but fitment was way off, all angles and dimensions are fixed now and i'm awaiting the second prototype to be made so i can get that on the way. I plan to develop a whole OEM+ intake system, from the elbow, to the airbox, right to the cold air inlet bracket thing that connects to the bumper. It WILL take time though as i have limited experience designing and making stuff like this, and given everything else going on in life i get about 8-10 hours a week to work on it tops. When i have something ready to offer that survives all the testing, abuse, ragging to feck, and everything else i throw at it.. i'll provide more details 🤫😉

Hi AGFalco, Thanks for the directing me to the manual method, I see it is described on pp53. I suppose it is a case of "if all fails read the instructions". I'll give it a go tomorrow. Thanks, Mike

I got rid at 80k about 18 months ago. It was around 2/3 full at that point according to the ecu.

It is still possible for a dealer that registers a car to de-register it within 7 working days (https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/v996-application-for-de-registration) . Thankfully it didn't come to that.

Not sure if @e-Roottoot is being sarcastic about using off vehicle battery storage. Powerwall 2 has a capacity of 13.5kwh. Its maximum charge/discharge rate is 3.68/5kW, round trip efficiency of around 90%. Never mind the £10k+ you would typically need if you want "free" solar power which may not charge it fully on every day of the year. Note if you don't recharge using your own solar panels, and use cheap off peak electricity to charge, then Tesla's warranty is limited to a total aggregate throughput of 37.8 MWh which is 2800 full cycles. As a business owner I don't see how this would ever be a good investment as a buffer for EV charging.

I always take these range tests with a pinch of salt because unless they where all done at the same time there not really comparative with EV’s. I’ve seen days when the range goes above the makers claims and others when it falls a lot short.

I haven't tried unplugging the oil pressure sensor, will add to the list of things to try tomorrow, This engine doesn't have a turbo Also I put 5w-30 in it when I changed the rod bearings

Available from about £20 here if you dont need automatic dimming https://www.skoda-parts.com/catalog/octavia-3/spare-parts/body/rearview-mirrors/side-rearview-mirror/mirror-glass-394.html

My 2017 Octavia estate had this handle if it helps at all got my kit from there the other day.

I use renapur balsam. Works a treat on leather.

Good find! The sooner water leaks are sorted, the better. My Mondeo leaked a little in heavy rain, and in winter, I used to find loads of condensation inside. Though it shifted with the heated windscreen, it wasn't particularly nice. So I used these to solve the problem, and just got into the habit of using them. https://www.amazon.co.uk/ANSIO-Interior-Dehumidifier-Condensation-Dehumidifiers/dp/B01C6V5IVG The 5-pack has gone up in price from about £5 to nearly £8 now, so I bought a 10-pack last time I bought some. These have all sorts of uses. When my kid dropped his phone in some water, I switched it off, bunged it in a ziplock bag with one of these, and a couple of days later gave it back to him. But mostly I just leave on in the boot, and one in the passenger compartment of my car, especially now I'm not using it much as I'm working from home. Edit: I've just changed the one in my boot (old one on left,), and as you can see, the white crystals have all gone, and there's a load of water now in the bottom of the container, so they do draw a fair bit of water out of the air over time.

Assuming you have the same microswitch issue as others, what happens is that even though the gear selector is in P, the car thinks it's in another position and gives an error. Some people have had luck with a temporary fix by moving the selector back and forth about 50 times. Try it and you might be able to start your car until you get the part replaced.

Yes, I have a 2013 SE and it is in showroom condition because I have cared for it. It looks new and drives like new. There must be examples like mine out there.

Yes, I have had the same sort of conversation recently. His initial response was that my car was ‘in the system to be built at the end of May’ and that I should speak to the dealer for more updates. When I pointed out that SUK are the importers and the dealers are merely the sales arm of the process my chatty buddy then went off and consulted with someone else. The result? My car had in fact been built, but was ‘awaiting parts’. When I asked where the vehicle was physically, he would not be drawn, even after I said that I had heard they may be parked in fields. Now... I am not overly bothered that it could be sat in a field, cars spend the vast majority of their life just sat around and I doubt they are aware of their surroundings. I will however be paying close attention to battery performance as I have read that there can be issues with batteries that do not get a regular charge, especially when the cars are first delivered.

Good, good, good... I'll stop worrying about how you will find 22 🤣. Reckon 8 and 9 are for the units with WiFi, the latter ones in the history of the mib2 standard.

Hello Tell Good morning Thank you for the great trick. it is working now by only rename from 22 to 00. step 1 and 7. i have skipped 8 and 9. Thank you again Have a great weekend stay safe

Battery storage in the house from recycling EV batteries is what is happening not only in homes but in businesses. (Power Vault / Tesla Power Wall etc.) Charging vehicles when needed from electric bought off peak or generated from solar or wind where they are. Homes in Tayside have had the system installed for a few years now with the batteries in the cupboard under the stairs type location. Solar panels on the roof. Part of a pilot scheme that has been successful. https://www.powervault.co.uk/article/powervault-and-renault-give-ev-batteries-a-second-life-in-smart-energy-deal EV charging is as expensive or more as running an ICE if you are having to pay 69 pence a kWh or even 40 pence at pubic chargers. 40 kWh x 69 pence £27.60, if you get 4 miles per kWh 160 miles. 40 mpg in a nice prestige car with fuel at £5.91 a gallon, 4 gallons £26.64 for 160 miles. 40 kWH @ 40 pence is £16. if you get only 3 miles per kWh then that is 120 miles. (as i sometimes get.) Fuel @ 130 pence a litre, £5.91 a gallon & 50 mpg =150 miles for £17.73. 3 gallons.

Here is a picture of one of my best trips. I have a 1.6TDI SE L and this was a clear run on dual carriageway roads. (In fact until I turned off the dual carriageway for the last mile of the trip it was at 103mpg). Following lorries at 55-60mpg with cruise control set. When I drive at 70mph the mpg drops into the mid-high 60's to low 70's mpg.

334HP

Just wondering where to cut really. I was surprised to find that the Fabia has essentially a double sill (shows how well made these cars are!) so I’m thinking of cutting more away from the floor in order to get access to the inner sill and weld a plate in

Well I upgraded my radar, replacing it with a used 3qf version that supports pacc, did the component protection myself, and calibrated it myself. Total cost less than 100, plus a lot of my own time learning, thousands if I was paying for my own time 😂. So that's.. possible, if you're determined and a massively interested hobbyist. However in your situation, someone overly keen to avoid insurance can be a bit of a red flag. I fear you sound overly keen to help someone who's causing you grief you don't need or deserve, and that you may be leaving yourself open to being taken advantage of in this situation.

Single phase charging at 7kW for 11 hours (eg. 8pm to 7am) gives 77 kWh. That can drive EV's around 300 miles. As long as combined miles of the household doesn't exceed 300 miles, there shouldn't be any problem powering all the cars' daily miles. There are already multi-chargers that intelligently load balance.

I didn't take the rear bumper off I attacked it from the inside removing the interior trim so I could see it easier.

If you type @$user_name, until you get a context menu that shows the user you want, then click on it, you get a hot link that only shows the username. If your just want to thank someone, click the grey bottom right on their post and make it go blue, which increases their rep score and saves bandwidth.

Thanks https://www.briskoda.net/forums/profile/8842-cheezemonkhai/ and https://www.briskoda.net/forums/profile/168829-entername/ for the further advice. I've checked the rear screen washer and there's no problem there. I'm going to strip the boot out tomorrow and try playing a hose on different areas to see if anything comes in. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/profile/168829-entername/, I'll check the rubber at the top of the light cluster. I think there may be a gap there, will look to post a pic later.

Mines at the dealers for two recalls. They wrote to me saying it needed doing but non safety critical. Ones for the climate control the others a generic instrument cluster one. Hopefully it gets rid of all the annoying foibles. Mines not been as bad as some people seem to have but there’s been some odd behaviour.

A bit of colour in the sky this evening and a big moon too......

I may be biased but Velvet Red in the sunshine is hard to beat....

Older drivers taught us that Felicia (even early Octavia models) have a tendency to overheating so we must be prepared because the ''boom'' one day will come so: Quality thermostat and sensor (not cheap ones) 1 even 2 scales lower radiator switch (from 85-90 to 80-85 even 75-80) Every 2 years coolant change after cleaning the whole system with little pressure Extra attention to the reservoir blue cap Keep the hoses soft and the clamps tight Extra gauge for coolant temperature or paying often attention to the factory on the dashboard. Sorry but the links don't work.

I few other items:- (I know different car but the info is relevant as a base.) I see somebody managed to upgrade their brakes form 288mm to 312mm...did you check the piston size stamped on the caliper??...if it said 55 for 55mm then its not ideal as the 312mm discs have a 57mm piston in the same caliper housing...my car was fitted with 288mm discs & 57mm pistons & swapping the caliper carriers & bigger discs was all that was required for a factory fit 312mm conversion:- How to retro-fit the 312mm front brakes to a Mk7 Golf | GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum Also the electronic wastegate actuators for the EA211 engine tend to seize at the actuator rod pivot...just grease it using the correct stuff..no need to buy a new turbo! (this may be important for those who swap to the 140/150PS turbo). How to fix the turbo wastegate rattle on the Mk7 Golf 1.4lt TSI (140/150PS) | GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum Other threads I have done:- All of golfdave's "How to retro-fit" guides | GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum

I'm always interested in someone local to me who's done some mods. Who mapped it for you and when can I borrow if for a weekend...?

Couple of recent photos taken with the roofbox fitted, ready to swallow up all the gear we 'need' for our family trips

Says it all imo.

T -Cross is closest you are likely to get to a direct replacement for the Yeti. Honda's new HR-V looks like another contender but is a bit bigger. Left field possibility I am looking at is new Honda Crosstar, slightly smaller outside but big inside. Hybrid drive system as well.