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So once my friend picked up his Hyundai we did a comparison on the way back. Bottom line is that a bigger battery is not always that much better The result surprised me. that uch

E10 gas been available here in Germany since 2011. So basically people have been filling up for 10 years with it and there's no horror stories of cars being damaged by it. The difference being is that there are still 2 pumps to choose from. Either E5 95 or E10 95. So you have the choice of which to use if you have an older car. Then of course you have the choice of all the premium 97+ fuels too which are all still E5.

Nothing catastrophic happens by just filling up with E10. Yes, in this part of the third world where I live there are 70 year old trucks still working all day every day with plain old carburettors, old fuel lines, neglected maintenance (only the bare minimum to keep them running) and guess what... They suffer more brake failures than they do engine fires or fuel leaks of any sort. And we have no choice, E10 is in every grade of fuel we use. In fact it is touted as beneficial because it "oxygenates" petrol and boosts its octane rating. If the base fuel is 95 RON it is theorised (by gov agencies anyway) that the 10% ethanol content elevates its rating to 97. In short, the best way to get rid of E10 is using it... no, really. That's the antidote. Burn it as quick as you possibly can, use your car. Don't leave it sitting there in the tank for months. That's it. That's what we do. Yetis were sold here too, nothing goes particularly wrong except the usual valvetrain problems which come as a result of using low octane fuels more than anything. This whole E10 scare is a first world problem if I've ever seen one. If you're a car collector with dozens or even hundreds of very valuable, rare cars that you don't have the time to move around your private racetrack or around the estate, this is actually a non-issue because you can afford the premium stuff anyway. If you're a normal citizen with normal cars using them for normal chores going to and from your normal job and doing the routine maintenance your normal car demands... relax. Just use the normal stuff. "bUt gUvMinT wAnTs Me CaR oFf ThE rOaD tHaTs wHy TheY'Re sHoViNg E10 DoWn oUr ThRoAts"... Set up your very own petrol refinery then.

Tried coding with VCTool using cheap $3 adpater LM327 V1.5 and it worked great: Bought 3 SFD tokens for 28€ + tax, try entering address not in EU maybe it will not charge you additional 21% tax For test I unlocked only module 9 You will need Internet connection during coding SFD token is not real time, it is near real time. You will receive email updated about queuing your request and you will receive an email when token is generated. It is very fast 1-2min max. Don't panic and try to unlock the module, you will receive CRC error. After you unlock a specific module you can run all adaptions for that module Modules stay unlocked for about 90min, during that time you can use other coding software like VCDS or OBDeleven I used VCDS trying to enable cornering lights with fog lights without success because I don't know which channel to use. Golf 7 and Octavia mk3 channels didn't work. I also tried lowering right mirror when in reverese but I don't have memory seats and this feature is not working correctly. All other adaptations are free in VCTool for module 9. My priority were "rear DRL lights" and "enable/disabe DRL in menus". I also enabled other available options for module 9. I have two tokens left, next I will code Dashboard to show gearbox temp and other stuff but I'm waiting for VCDS firmware update for 21.9 version so I can check what else can be modified. This bundle of 3 tokens can be used on different VINs, if you have three cars this can be useful Maybe competition will force lower prices for SFD tokens soon, If you are not in a hurry wait and see

My L & K Diesel Estate 170 DSG is being sold as my new Superb Hatch has arrived just hope the new one is as good as the old., Car listed in classified ads, but it means I will be moving to the Mk 3 forum, thanks to everyone who has helped me over the last 7+ years of ownership of the very best car I have ever owned.

Have they asked it?

All others check your PM for download link

I had a bit about this a year or so ago where I found a decent rethreading kit for about £15. The same type of kit can go for ten times that amount as they will charge what they think they can get away with and to answer the question, yes, it will pass an MOT. Look up the listing below, on ebay. Fairly easy to use, if you can use spanners, jacks and drills. This is the same kit but a little dearer by a fiver. brake caliper guide thread repair kit M9 x 1.25 VAUXHALL(OPEL) VAG FORD UK

Looking forward to hearing others have the fix installed and working. Then I'll make the call to the dealer, as I'm assuming they're not going to chase me! Thanks to everyone who has put in the hard work to force Skoda to create these fixes.

Lovely sunrise this morning, although I needed a bit of editing to bring out the sunbeams😁

Sold my old Octavia nearly 4 years ago for a Leon FR. Still got it but finally persuaded the wife to upgrade Ford Grand c max replaced with.....

https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/models/octavia/skoda-octavia-25-years-at-the-top/?fbclid=IwAR1uSiz_e6-c5BtaYi4zaV7_x_MkEruwseD5o6CbULi8xAY3oJoUMHWYmMU

I prepared a video about how the car performs on a day like this. Today was over 35ºC. This is a fast road. (120Km/h limit) I tried to keep my speed as fast as possible and tried to keep up with the traffic. Limiting factors are, traffic, overheating and max speed limit. Normally the temp sits at first line from the bottom. When going uphill, it quickly climbs. When it reaches flat position, I tried to keep it there. So no more gas even if it can go faster. Details about the car: - 1993 Skoda Forman LX (I'm owner from January. Multiple previous owners. Unknown milage. I found an old bill when working inside the car. That indicates 160K Km dated 2004) Current mileage just over 100K. The car runs on LPG. - 80ºC new Vernet thermostat - Calorstat by Vernet 68-82 new thermal switch. (Installed for summer, the car had 87-92 before) - New magneti-marelli radiator. - Fuchs Ethylene glycol based blue antifreeze with %50 distilled water. (The car had murky coolant which had -10ºC measured capacity when I got it. Flushed twice with distilled water and used 50/50 with the same brand ever since) - Castrol GTX UltraClean 10W40 Semi-synthetic motor oil. New. - Bosch 165959455G VW six blade fan motor with Felicia full fan cover 6U0121207. (Direct connection to battery. Runs after full stop) - VW Vento 5.5" steel rims with 175/70 R13 summer tires. - Unknown gearbox ratios. - Unknown status of water pump. - New headgasket. Details about video: - 30 min. trip in a fast road. - Two people in the car. - ABS light is connected to the fan. - All windows are closed after short time from the beginning. - The car is on gasoline in the first part. When returning, I switched to LPG on the road. After 16 min. the car is acting weird and shaking for a short duration. That's gasoline to LPG transition. Leftover gasoline in the carburetor makes a too rich mixture. Timecode: - 00:00~01:10 40Km/h to 80Km/h acceleration. - 01:10~04:00 Hill climb 80Km/h - 04:00~05:30 Downhill idle 100Km/h - 05:30~06:20 Downhill full throttle to 120Km/h - 06:20~7:40 slight up&down. Fast. 100Km/h - 07:40~9:00 hill climb with 80Km/h - 09:00~10:10 slight down, slight up 80Km/h - 10:10~13:30 long climb with 80Km/h HIGH TEMP! - 14:00~16:00 turn back - 16:00~17:30 switch to LPG (Down to normal temp again) - 17:30~20:00 downhill - 20:00~20:30 bridge cross - 20:30~21:50 steep hill climb 70Km/h High Temp again. - 21:50~22:50 steep downhill not enough to cool down - 22:50~26:00 hill climb start with already hot engine. speed down to 60Km/h - 26:00~26:45 Finish. Could you please tell me what you think about generally everything that is out of ordinary? I had no cars before so I don't know how a 40kW car performs or how a Favorit performs. What do you think about the cooling system?

ah. Sorry to hear it didn’t solve it for you but thank you very much for replying. As you say, it’s worth the investment of time for the improvement, shame it can’t be eradicated. much appreciated Timmyboy.

I have not seen it but the dealer said it looked like audi's light grey color

245/45R20 could be used instead of 235/50R20. The Barum is available in this size for a lot less than £150. Barum Bravuris 5HM 245/45R20 103Y XL £101.90 https://www.camskill.co.uk/m63b0s5593p188793/Barum_Tyres_Car_Barum_Bravuris_5HM_-_245_45_R20_103Y_XL_FR_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_2_Noise%3A_72dB

Better racing than expected sure, and I agree it's too short a track, but someone built a Center Parcs on the old high speed return loop...

2021 L&K Hatch picked up yesterday. Ex-GM’s car at Carr’s Exeter - 280 4x4 in Magic Black (which is a stunning colour up close). Pretty much all the main options I can see (albeit some no cost); sunroof, 2-spoke steering wheel, 19” Trinity Anthracite wheels, ventilated front seats. Enjoyed a lovely drive back to London yesterday and Southampton and back today…and got the SOS error already. Otherwise I’m loving the different characteristics in the driver profiles etc.

Recently decided to fix a little thing that had been niggling away at me for months, the stereo didn't fit right and I accidentally left a CD in the factory one. It now looks a bit better since the adaptor bracket now fits without jutting out quite as much. Next is going to be repairing the gouge in the passenger mirror, fitting the alloy centre caps, and begin to repair tired suspension parts. Watch this space...

. Nope. My 2.0TSI did exactly what Mr SurreyJohn describes yesterday. The motor died as I was pulling up to a roundabout just as an opportunity to scoot out presented itself. It's not the first time, either. It would be nice to be able to turn the start/stop off permanently, but you can't on a late one like this. Having said that, I don't think it's the massive chore to turn it off each time you start the engine that others seem to think it is. Adding one small thing to add to an already short list of things you need to do before driving off isn't that onerous - it's not as if you have to walk round checking the control surfaces, priming the carburettors, dragging chocks out or swinging a propeller. What is a pain in the panjandrum is forgetting to switch it off, because the roundabout quick-getaway dead-engine scenario has the potential to be rather more than just a nuisance. .

Cheers @DeanVRS20VT much appreciated 👍

They are always brightly coloured so they are obvious when the car is jacked up. However if removing them is missed out, and tyre pressures not corrected during PDI you have to wonder if a PDI actually happened. What else was “forgotten” (ignored), oil level check, fluid levels, software updates since built etc. I am in the camp that if at least part of the PDI wasn’t done, you request the dealer to do a full PDI (at their expense), because you and they have no idea how much else was missed. If they moan and say no, tell them you will be writing to Skoda UK and Trading Standards and DVSA regarding falisifying records and any consequences are their problem.

Amen to that!

Pretty sure VW makes their own lithium pouches. https://www.automotivemanufacturingsolutions.com/volkswagen/skoda-starts-battery-production-for-vw-group/39078.article But they can still catch fire. Every lithium battery can catch fire. https://insideevs.com/news/527874/volkswagen-id3-netherlands-fire-charging/

There are plenty of companys that can reset the crash data on the Airbag Control Module, mine was done for £30 including return postage and was back with me in 48 hours. I can't recall who it was, they may have been in Oxford or I may have invented that, I just googled and chose the cheapest that had excellent reviews, I think their name described what they do. Module is located on top of the transmission tunnel well forward where it is protected from being hit by feet or any other object.

The size of the caliper and how many pistons it has won’t effect brake fade. it will be the size of the disc, cooling capabilities and quality of discs and pads.

It looks to me like he's not implying anything, just stating his phone wont update to the point he can use 'official' Android Auto Wireless, so this AAWireless dongle is his best option. What did you think he was 'implying'?! Having only just AA working on my new (to me) Superb, I might wait and see, but I suspect most times I will want the phone plugged in so it charges anyway. I guess when I hop in the car in the morning for my 10 minute commute, it might be nice if it automatically connected and I can AA Wirelessly... we'll see I guess. Orders aren't shipping until January now anyway.

Can't remember where I read it (much googling has been done) but I have read that if an accidental tank of E10 is used in an incompatible car, just fill it up with E5 when the time comes. No harm should (SHOULD!) come to the car. Also.... E10 (and E5) means up to 10% (5%)...

Hi all, Thanks for the informative guides. I managed to install these on our 2021 Karoq in max 90 min without taking the wheels off. Back was super easy. For the push rivets, I recommend buying a set of plastic removal tools (like this) in addition to the soap trick. Only took maybe 30 seconds for each one. For the front wheels, I cranked the wheel all the way over to access the front drill hole area then ranked it the other way to get to the back one. Just used a cordless Ryobi drill, fit fine. Used a 6mm wood drill bit but took a while and was worried about over drilling it. The u-clamp on the underside was confusing as the supplied diagram is crap.

Hi all, Just wanted to say thank you for the informative guides. Helped me get it done on our 2021 Karoq. Did the electrical first with a piggyback fuse and 12V to 5V converter that I got for $20 and installed the rest after feeding the cable from the glove box out the removed side panel, then mocking up the cam on the glass and hiding away all the wires. Highly recommend that you go buy the car plastic removal tools so you don't damage anything. Helpful for the entire process to get things open etc. Installed a Viofo A119 V3.

I replaced my 2104 Golf SV with a 2020 Karoq last year (both petrol DSGs.) I agree, the stop/start feature is more eager to stop the engine when you apply the brake, as with my Golf I could choose whether to apply the brake or stop the engine by the pressure I applied to the brake pedal. With the Karoq it is more likely to stop the engine, especially if I'm using the Eco drive mode. Both required a tap on the accelerator though to restart the engine (although the Karoq will also do that if I wiggle the steering wheel slightly.) In my opinion it is down to the more stringent fuel economy / emission control requirements on the newer cars. For the same reason, although you can disable the stop/start with the button, you have to do it every time you start the car, and can't just disable the thing completely by software mods. Chris

Hi everyone, I hope you've all been well during these turbulent times. Hopefully you're all still enjoying your cards avoid of any issues. I had to book my Fabia's first MOT today for the end of September - it will be interesting to see if the modifications I've made will pass. Would any of you have any experience with MOT centres and lowered cars, if so, is there ever an issue? Aside from MOT, I'm currently looking for replacement mudflaps - would any of you know where I could get hold of a good set? I'd love to see any new modifications/additions you guys have made - I got myself a new set of wheels last June, not something I normally go for but I love them to bits. Smaller than my last set at 15 or 16" I believe, they sit a little bit out from the wheel arch which I love too. Unfortunately, similar to my last set of diamond cut alloys, they've succumbed to corrosion despite the application of a ceramic coating before fitting. I live in a seaside town, this is perhaps why this happens! Best, Cody

After the Karoq's next service, due shortly, I am hoping to be allowed to transfer from a 2-yr service deal to the 2-yr all in one package. I have a strong belief in the value of good breakdown cover; don't just think that everything will be alright if you have a reliable, well-maintained car. Our B-max suffered a blow-out a year ago November in the east-bound contra-flow on the M6 north of Coventry - 5pm, rush-hour out of Brum - dark, cold and wet. We limped to the hard-shoulder when it resumed, with HGVs etc hooting up our backside. My wife and I took to the embankment; fortunately, we had breakdown cover and a chap duly arrived and parked his orange-lit truck behind the car and was able to change the wheel for the space-saver. As a result of this experience, I am very pro-breakdown cover and very anti-smart motorways.

You don't have a controller at address 46... At a guess, you're trying to use instructions from an earlier MK2 and they don't apply to your car. You might find it's move to an adaption or the lcode in address 09. Unfortunately as I haven't got access to a similar car, I can't check for you 😕

Park it on a dry surface and see if there are any wet patches

That is normal if any of the fuel splashes back into the filler neck. MK1 and MK2 Octavias were very slow fillers and the pump would frequently cut out especially if there was not enough defoamer in the fuel. Filling to the brim and then some I always leave an incontinence patch like that on the forecourt.

There is another thread somewhere. Several people, myself included have used CR2032 batteries. They are marginally deeper but still fit ok and they seem to solve the issue...

I'd second that having had to replace a couple of bits recently. And the other thing is with a Skoda dealer the onus is on them to order the right part(s) for your particular car which should eliminate the risk of mistakenly ordering the wrong bit with all the hassles of returns and re-ordering.

I had the call from Kate Laws this morning (saturday). She referred to the test vehicles and that she would be obtaining feedback on Wednesday next week. She said she would call me next Thursday. Let's hope that this resolves the situation at long last.

@hackingjam if you've ended up with a 6Yxxxxxxx window motor spare, don't bin it, they fetch decent money if working.

I also wouldn’t write off Skoda dealers - in the past I have been pleasantly surprised how competitive their prices are.

Further to my last post.... What a flipping car crash: https://www.gov.uk/displaying-number-plates/flags-symbols-and-identifiers Because I want to stick a flag on my reg plate and have many options 😕

Soot in that area indicates you have either a EGR or Exhaust leak...

And..... I am keeping the Golf, The Golf flew through its MOT a few Weeks ago and had Minor Service with Oil & Filter change using Genuine VAG Quantum Longlife 3 5W30 Oil & Bosch Oil Filter with New Genuine Sump Plug. The Car had a Major Service last September and Brake Fluid changed when I had the Calipers replaced so didn’t really need anything else and I have only done around 6500 Miles since buying it a Year ago. Next job in October is the Timing Belt, Water Pump & Auxiliary Belt. Then it will be going back into Winter mode with its Steelies. Why am I keeping the Golf? I have had an absolute nightmare finding a Car to replace it with and as I have a bit of time spare this evening I am going to share my experiences over the past 6 Weeks with you with you about the Cars I have viewed, Bought and even rejected... 1. Skoda Octavia VRS TDI, 66 Plate Car located in Louth at a VW Specialist. Very Low Mileage with less than 20K and described as totally immaculate. The Drivers Side Sill had been Repainted very badly with most of the overspray all over the OSR Rear Suspension Arm, Handbrake Cable and Wheel Arch Liner. 2. Another identical Car to number 1, Thankfully this was located local to me and I was in the area so no time wasted. Absolute shed though, Covered in Dents, Chips and Scuffs. Interior was not very nice either. 3. 2016 Ford Focus ST-3 TDCI Estate in Stealth Grey located at Inchcape VW Altrincham/Manchester, It was an 18000 Mile Car and looked stunning in the images but while I was actually there viewing the Car one of the Valeters pulled it off a Display Ramp on the forecourt for me to view the Car properly and ground the front bumper on the floor. I expressed my frustration and wasted journey to the sales manager who offered a Smart Repair but the Bumper looked mis-aligned to me as and was bowing out on one side and the panel gap between the Bumper and Wing was well out...Basically a Bumper off Job and possibly a New Bumper to make it 100%. 4. Skoda Octavia VRS 230, 66 Plate, 44000 Miles, Located at Listers VW in Leamington Spa. I was sent a video of the Car, Loads of images and so I thought it was worth the trip down. Instantly I could see the Car was a bit rough around the edges, Wheels needed refurbing, Bad Smart repair on the Rear Bumper, Damaged Window Seals and was missing Services in the History so walked away. 5. While viewing Car number 4, On my way back to Sheffield I called to Listers Skoda in Coventry to view an 8000 Mile, 69 Plate Octavia VRS DSG 245. The Car I couldn't fault at all and would have bought it however the Salesman I dealt with was a complete bell-end. From the word go I was given the impression that as I had not made an appointment and just turned up I was a massive inconvenience to the Staff there, I was given the Keys and left to look around the Car I had gone to view. The Chap I dealt with came outside and asked me if it was a Diesel I was specifically after? I told him the Car in front of us is actually a Petrol VRS which is what I was after and straight away he began to disagree telling me I had made a mistake and that it was a Diesel. Then proceeded to get into the Car, Start the engine and revved it before getting out and saying that I was infact correct and it was a Petrol. We went inside and I pointed out that the price in the Screen on the Car was in fact £300 more than what the Car was advertised for on their Website and on the Approved Used Skoda Network, Again he disagreed with me and said the price in the Windscreen was correct. We got down to the numbers and he offered me an extended Warranty, Service Plan etc going forward and then asked how I was funding the purchase and I said with Cash/Card Payment from Savings. He immediately said for me to forget the extended Warranty and Service plan as that was only available to buyers that went on Finance, Then went on to tell me that I should leave my money in the Bank and get the Car on finance which I found very rude as he had absolutely no right to tell me what I should or shouldn't do with my money. I should have walked out at this point but I really liked the Car and decided to make a very reasonable offer which to be fair was inline with other similar age/mileage examples on the Approved Used Skoda Network and given I wasn't eligible for the Warranty/Service Plan etc I felt I should haggle a bit and at this point he went online to look at the Figures and said I was correct about the price difference Online vs in the Window and then said that I could have it for the Online Price as it was already discounted by £300 which I knew it wasn't. He then turned his Monitor round and pointed out that 11 People where watching the advert on approved used website and that with that much interest in the Car he was confident if I didn't buy it someone else would, I told him that although 11 People are watching it those 11 People are not sat in the Showroom offering to buy the Car however I was and would have put a deposit on the Car there and then. He wasn't interested in me as a Customer and that came across quite clearly, I stood up and walked out at this point. Guess what, They still have not sold that Octavia Today over a Month since I viewed it and they have now reduced it even further to a price I would have paid for it on that day. 6. Skoda Octavia VRS 230, 66 Plate 33K Miles, After all of the hassle travelling around viewing all of the above Cars I made the Cardinal Sin of buying a Car without seeing it in the flesh. I bought it from a Skoda Independent located in Southampton after spending Hours on the phone asking countless questions, Seeing 15-20 mins of HD Video and loads of images I decided to go for it. It arrived and although I had the Thread deleted off here which I made I rejected the Car within 5 Mins, I had paid for it Delivering on a Transporter and it was driven 300 Miles by a less than desirable character. The Car was simply not as described and basically needed the Front End Repainting due to excessive Stone-Chipping which I was not told about. So the Car was rejected, Collected by the same Bloke who dropped it off and he decided to have a pop saying it was all a waste of his time and because I had rejected the Car he wasn't going to get paid. I gave him a F-Off Tablet and once my Money was refunded gave him the Keys and asked him to get off my property. Serves me right though for been lazy, I won't ever buy anything based on someone elses opinion ever again as People are just out to mis-lead you and rip you off. 7. VW Golf GTI Performance Pack, 16 Plate, 30K Miles. Drove down to Parkway VW in Derby to view this. Instantly I could see it was not a very nice Car Cosmetically so didn't bother asking for anymore information on that Car. 8. Whilst in the Derby area I had another Car lined up to view, Skoda Octavia VRS 245, Similar to the Challenge with all the Toys on a 2018 Model with just 18000 Miles. I had been talking to the Dealership the Night before and told them I was in the area the following day and at that time the price was £19990, I rang the Dealer after viewing Car number 7 and said I would like to come a view the Car. I pulled up and saw the price in the Window of £21300 and was met by another Jobsworth with a beaming smile painted on, I mentioned the Cars price increase and he simply said "Everything's gone up" I told him I was interested but at the original price as I wasn't prepared to ay another £1300 for no reason and he said there was no negotiation on that Car and that £21300 was the price. So I calmly walked out with my fists clenched ...Another wasted journey. And they have now since reduced the Car back down to £20300 a Month on. 9. Skoda Octavia VRS 230, 66 Plate, Meteor Grey and just 15000 Miles! located at Border Skoda Dumfries. I saw this and actually got excited as you might have noticed I have been after One of these. I actually put a deposit on this as the Dealership was closed last Sunday and I didn't want to miss out, I was sent a load of Images and a Video and I was planning on going up to view the Car Today. Salesman said the Car had Full Skoda Service History and I asked to see the Printout. Too good to be true, The Car was never Serviced until it was 3 Years old which was disappointing. Got my Deposit back, I didn't even bother getting into a discussion about the fact the Car clearly doesn't have Full Service History and that it doesn't qualify to be an Approved Used Skoda in the first place. 10. Golf GTD Estate, 66 Plate, 33K Miles. This was located at DACE Specialist Cars in Stockport. A supposed German Car Specialist. This was a Telephone enquiry, The Car is 5 Years old so is due its Timing Belt changing. The Salesman who thought he knew everything would not have it that the Timing Belt was due and kept quoting the Mileage and not the Interval that it was due. I could here him banging his keyboard and eventually he agreed it was due but that they wouldn't be prepared to do it anyway. I told him to stick the Car up his Rectum and hung up. German Car Specialists my backside. 11. Last One, I promise. VW Golf GTI Performance Pack, 66 Plate, 19K Miles. This was at an Independent located near Birmingham and had been traded in. One elderly Owner from New, Looked absolutely stunning and Full VW Service History done every 4000 Miles. I thought, This sounds like a winner and well worth viewing! It took them 3 Days to get me pictures of the Service Book as they couldn't answer what the Car had actually had done when Serviced. I quickly realised that the Car had been Serviced by VW every Year but had only had a Basic Lubricant Oil/Filter change each time and nothing else. Not to worry, I rang the Dealer and said I was still interested but that the Car never had its Brake Fluid done at 2 & 4 Years, Never had Spark Plugs at 4 Years, Never had the VAQ Differential Service at 3 Years and that it was also due a Coolant change as its now 5 Years old. I was happy to get all of the work done myself if the Car was as good as it looked in the pictures and had quotes from VW of £550-£600 to get all the work done as it was overdue. Given the Car was up at £21000 and was priced £1000 too high for a non VW Main Dealer, I asked for some money off the Car to contribute towards the Work doing OR if they would be happy to get it all done at their expense and I would pay the asking price. They wouldn't budge a penny or agree get any of the work done, Even though they agreed the Car was infact overdue for all the above work. This for me was the final straw. I have honestly never struggled so badly to buy a used Car, Over the Years I have now owned over 45 Performance Cars ranging from 5 Years old to 20 Years old and I totally get that sometimes you have to view a couple before finding the right example but this time has just been a nightmare. Been a bit old school and saving my Money for Car/Motorbike purchases means that whatever I buy is not just to fuel my Hobby but also it is an investment and I pamper whatever I buy. Not all but I think the Majority of people nowadays that get Cars on PCP and then hand them back after 24/36 Months just don't look after them, They use and abuse them and then hand them back. Then I come along and see a 1 Owner Car at a Main Dealership, Full Main Dealer History and then go and view it and its a total shed and when some of these Cars are over £20K in Money I really expect perfection for my money because if I had bought a Brand New Car and ran it for 2/3 Years it would be going back onto a Forecourt wanting nothing. I have bought £4000/5000, 10 Year old Cars in the past which have had 4-5 Owners and have been Cosmetically and Mechanically better looked after. Even my current Golf in this Thread was far superior to any of the Cars I have viewed over the past 6 Weeks and that was the catalyst for wanting to keep it. Why should I spend 4 x Times the amount that the Golf is worth for something that doesn't tick all the right boxes? So I would like to thank you for reading, Apologies if I have gone on but I needed to vent.

The Skoda UK order forms I’ve seen have a derivative line but it outlines the model only, (e.g. sportline 1.5dsg) which is the same pre and post facelift so there is nothing on my paperwork that I could see which ensured I would be supplied a facelift. There’s no chance I am risking even a 1% chance that a dealer might supply a stock car and give me a last season model for new season money. Even though the sales guy was really good- who knows he might not even be working there next week! So I just made them write on the form that they will definitely supply a facelift. They were happy to do it and understood why I wanted that on the paperwork given the cost and comfort level a single sentence provides me.

If you’ve got an order in already, don’t pin your hopes on a free 20” wheel upgrade. My son has been informed today his order due end of July has build confirmed and is too late to change order for free upgrade and will definitely come with the standard 19” wheels.

These screws can be a pain, especially if you dive in there without suitable preparation. This is what they looked like when new: They're generally a Torx T25 tool fitment, and they're mostly a bit or a lot rusty, and almost always have grit and mud in the head recess. If you do nothing about the latter before attempting to undo them, the tool tends to slip, or you can rip up the head and make life more difficult than it ought to be. I tend to replace any that are badly corroded and like using this fella on ebay for such things. But before you can replace, you need to get them out. Things like an old toothbrush or a small wire brush can help, but both will struggle to get deep into the head recess where the grit and dirt are really in the way of the tool getting good purchase. So use a little pick tool instead. I tried this for the first time a week or two back and it works beautifully, getting right to the bottom of the recess, and into all the corners nicely. Anything similarly pointy should do, but these sets are available very cheaply on ebay/Amazon/anywhere. Suddenly the torx bit goes in about 2mm further and just releases the screw easily. Bloody obvious strategy in hindsight, but may be handy for anyone who has successfully evaded the bloody obvious to date.

Well, a year and a half later this has not got any worse, but I still get the same issue intermittently. Had a week off this week so after finding this thread: I removed the battery, tray, airbox etc. and have cleaned up: 1) Gearbox to chassis ground 2) Battery negative to chassis ground 3) Both positive and negative battery terminal connectors and the terminals themselves Too early to tell if this will have any impact (the gearbox to chassis connection was dirty, but definitely not loose) and a very quick drive following by lots of steering wheel turning could NOT reproduce the fault, but it does seem to just pop up out of no where so is hard to trigger with any reliability. Will update this thread the next time the steering issue happens - so if no update, assume positive news!

Sounds like you are maybe used to the torque of a diesel geared engine. Petrol engines work better with higher revs

Same problem for me - 2012 Superb Estate Elegance Petrol 4x4. Thanks to these posts I had the motor out, freed up with some WD40 and back here writing this post 10 mins later. Mine was just a bit stiff (too little use during Corona lockdown) and freed easily. I didn’t even remove the plug so was able to ascertain it worked ok before re-installing. A word of caution, make sure the fan assembly is properly seated when fitting it back in. Mine was slightly ‘cross threaded’ the first time I put it in and didn’t work (presumably the fan itself has very little clearance so was jamming). Keep up the good work everyone - this is a great resource!