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Just received my new Kodiaq.

So once my friend picked up his Hyundai we did a comparison on the way back. Bottom line is that a bigger battery is not always that much better The result surprised me. that uch

https://www.reuters.com/business/autos-transportation/vws-skoda-stop-production-czech-plants-week-due-chip-shortage-2021-09-16/

I was thinking about putting this into the Chuckle thread before @@Lee alters it. 😉

Looks lovely this red nugget. Well done you

From my great Skoda spares stock why do you want some ?

New old stock genuine boot bags

Yup - under the heading of "its a VW, so they damn well do what they want to" - we went from G11, G12+, and G13, then back to G12++ and G12evo. There is a table of what is compatable with what; but for the sake of what you are doing - just use G12evo Ready Mixed or G12evo concentrated and use mineral free water to dilute.

Looking slightly fresher!

Just swapped out my Yeti for an Enyaq IV 60, it was delivered on the 3rd Sept. Super happy with it so far.

Dear Santa 🎅 I've waited patiently for my new Octavia mk4 and I've been a good boy all year. I hope you will bring me these "coding/adaptation mods" for christmas (in the following order of priority): 1. Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC), default setting = distance 0. Since the shortest predefined distance that can be chosen for the ACC is not short enough maybe there is a possibility to code this distance to zero 2. Driving mode, default setting = Individual 3. Lane Assist, default setting = Off 4. STOP/START, default setting = Off Sincerely Si 👼 PS. Say Hi to 🤶 DS.

One of those things that comes up repeatedly around here is the thorny issue of rear suspension ride height and how to improve cars that may be sagging. I'm not going to present a solution to that question, as there are quite a lot of variables involved. What I have put together though is a summary of the different spring/damper combinations used on the rear of the Superb which should cover most of the possibilities for those who want to stick with OE parts if they're modifying their stock configuration; this is attached here as a pdf along with the geometry table from the service manual. Some caveats: I don't have access to a dealer version of ETKA, only some online versions: the information may not be complete as a result (come of the online catalogues are buggy at times) Even assuming that the catalogues I've found are complete, there may still be data missing from the catalogues I've come across a few inconsistencies that I've had to make an educated guess on What you do with this information is entirely your own business: I've done the best I can but if you mess up your car using it it's not my fault Changing the rear suspension without also changing the front could be problematic I'm planning to do a similar exercise for front suspension when I can make some time for it Some known issues: There are two raised ride height configurations available but I can only find information for the lower of the two (+10 mm over standard) The raised ride height configurations I can find seem to be listed exclusively for the 4x4 model I've no idea if the FWD model had this option or not and can't find information on it either way Some dampers in 1JA have a VIN split listed for the P/Ns pre-facelift This is included as an additional line in the table for the post split numbers In 1JC there is an additional damper part number listed with no associated spring PR codes It's listed as 'Other?' in the table In the main table, the lines highlighted in green represent the spring part number while lines highlighted in lilac represent the damper part number. To look up a configuration, find the weight range PR code at the top then drill down to the damper PR code on the left. every spring/damper PR code combination has a unique spring/damper combination. The additional tables below this are to explain/clarify what's going on. The weight range assignments are a relative ranking of the spring stiffness with 1 being softest, 14 being stiffest. As you can see in the table, the part numbers for a given weight range vary depending on the chassis/damper spec e.g. 0YB for 1JA is different to 0YB for 1JC, etc. Not every chassis spec includes all weight ranges. What is consistent in the springs is the relationship between paint codes and part number (with one exception: 0YA and 0YB for 1JC have the same paint code but different P/Ns - probably an error in the catalogue). Weight ranges 11-13 don't appear to be assigned on the Superb based on what I can find in the catalogue. An interesting thing that jumps out is that the spring alone does not determine ride height. In the table, 1JA/0YG uses the same spring as 1JD/0YA, even though the latter is 10 mm higher: the damper is what adds the extra 10 mm. The four damper configurations listed in the catalogue are fairly self explanatory. As noted above, the higher of the rough road combinations is not listed in the catalogues I have access to. Greenline is not listed in these, but the common opinion is that it's using the Sport chassis. rear suspension PR code summary.pdf

The only thing I’d worry about is puddles. You don’t want water being sucked up into the intake. Just something to bear in mind when it’s chucking it down.

Just noticed the earlier post by @alexxutzu so moved that to be with this one. Unfortunately for Lee that also means he won't be able to edit the title so I'll have to do it or poor old Alex will get blamed!

Tried that, just made them run a bit faster in my direction of travel - damn things were more stupid than chooks!

I’ve got the same anxiety, but haven’t yet done Cornwall or Isle of Skye in it 😬 I went to Switzerland, South of France and Italy in a 1.4 Octavia without a second thought but the same thing in an Enyaq, whilst clearly possible, will take a lot more planning. Having said that, there’s 50kW rapid charging in Fort William, and also on the Isle of Skye…

I've been looking for some actually for that little extra storage!

So the official procedure is basically this but you need a special type of spring compressor - the ones with two screws you wind down to compress the spring won't fit. The lower wishbone gets in the way.

Thanks for the reply and links. Yes I’ve had the car from new October 2019. Look like I’m stuck with it

See how cold the air is with the A/C switched on if you look at the 1.2, (and you care about having working A/C). If it's not much colder with the temp dial set to minimum and A/C button pressed and lit up yellow, it's probably not working and could be a price-lowering bargaining point. Might be a cheap/easy fix, but might well not.

@Gabrielem @Txmax i have ordered Eibach Pro, but from the heavier car versions, on rear axle that is tested - 2.0 AWD springs give perfect height on 2.0 FWD car on front axle experiment isn't complete yet https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/478335-does-the-sportline-have-stiffer-suspension/?do=findComment&comment=5573227

No, 2010 was swap from Mk1 to Mk2, facelift is the midlife "smartening up" of the Mk2 that happened somewhere in 2013. My November 2013 car is an early example of a facelift car. So at 2011 you are definitely pre FL which would make damper end in BR. Finnily enough the delaer who did my work reckoned my dampers were CR rather than CP as per the PDF. I suspect that there isn't a huge amount of difference, if any, in the dampers when the last 2 digits change and so CR, CP and BR are I surmise essentially the same damper with a different part number label on. It's only when the main part number changes that they are significantly different e.g. Pre FL weight class 5 and below has 3C0 513 029 xx dampers whereas weight class 6 and above has 3C0 513 029 xx dampers . I worked up a bill of materials for when I was looking at doing swap with OEM bits which has details of all the bolts etc you need. Worth changing the plastic/rubber seats at each end of the spring as well I think as they are cheap and could explain your noise on speed bumps if they are damaged and allow metal on metal contact between spring and seat. Agree if you are DIY then worth swapping springs only to start with

Briskoda does it again, it's a great site.😎

Interested in how you selected 4wd mode. I suspect you mean off-road mode. How long have you had the car, has the Haldex oil been changed and the pump filter cleaned if due.

Thanks for that. Nah. Bought new on the basis it will be trouble free for at least three years. Huh! I change the tyres to the season for safer driving in snow. Spookily there was an article in the Guardian a couple of days ago saying used car prices had increased by 21% since April last year. Reason given was delays in new car availability and people moving away from public transport.

since yesterday everything works correct. I touched nothing. to wait in the meantime for it to fail again ...

Thanks a bunch buddy! A massive thanks for compiling all the info in one thread ☺️

Here's some figures from my drive last week.

@TerFarThe DQ200 DSG on the Fabia has no Service Recommendations for changing either of the oils in them. No Service Schedule to change the oil. People do have it done, but that should be because they want it done, and not because a Dealership Employee wrongly tells them it is due an oil change. The mk2 vRS did handle better when fitted with 215/40 R 17 tyres as VW, Audi & SEAT fitted to the twinchargers rather than the 205/40 R 17 OEM. Then them sandbagging the vRS by putting 'Success Ballast' on the rear crashbar of the hatches to make them heavier than the longer estates was just not great for handling. The sister cars which were heavier yet no faster did not need the rear ballast just as Mk2 Monte Carlo TSI or TDI's did not. (The Polo GTI 1.4TSI Twincharger got the battery in the boot and no Spare Wheel as standard which was good for balance / handling, no rear ballast weights and they were Type Approved to allow towing where the vRS was not, hatch or estate.) For anyone that does not know about VW & Vorsprung Durch Technik. While every other Car Manufacturer was making cars lighter, VW decided the Skoda Hatch could not be lighter than sister cars, or a VED class the same as the VW or Audi, or be quicker or more fuel efficient because the were cheaper. So Weights were designed, manufactured and added to the vRS hatch. Oddly when the Mk3 came out a big deal was made about them being on average 60 kg lighter. VW will do engineering of figures often rather than just honest engineerig. The Estate that was 9 3/4" longer than the hatchback was not really 5kg lighter as Skoda had Motoring Journalists and Sales People quoting. eg. How much did these cost, and why did no Monte Carlo owners add these as a performance mod to add to handling by making the front go light under acceleration and making the brakes work harder because the car was heavier. VW should have had to answer for nonsense like adding these.

I wouldn't worry about the cambelt. If the car is driven normally it will never need replacing. It's just a VAG con to extract money for the garages. If its a DSG gearbox, then make sure that the fluid replacement is done by competent experts. Otherwise, the MC is a good vehicle and drives very well especially in sports mode (DSG). My 2016 MC came with lowered sports suspension and 17" wheels shod with 215/45R17 tyres. It handles better than the (now obsolete) vRS version.

No the crank sensor fitting normally involves at least dropping the large (32mm from memory) bolt that goes through the BOTTOM of the oil cooler and manipulating it out of the way. Don't disconnect the water pipes and have something to catch the mug full of oil that will drop out. Budget for the lower two oil cooler seals as well to be on the safe side.

Just out of curiosity, what job are you doing?

Thanks guys. I took it back today. They balanced it -it was way out on all but especially 2 wheels. Why they didnt balance it after fitting steering rack 4 new rims and doing a wheel alignment is an error on their part and not road testing it a second error, Anyway the tech today rejigged the wheel alignment balanced it road tested it and told me about the rear axle and toe so that reflects your comments AGFALCO. I feel comfortable talking direct to the tech. The manager said theres no charge today...just as well. so tomorrow its a 156km motorwatyreturn trip to work see how it feels. I got it up to 100km/hr today and it definitely felt better but it was too short -the motorway trip will tell the story.

Answer from empty is about 8.4litres of G12++ or G12evo.

Will the app not stop the charge when full or anyway can communicate via smart apps to turn off socket . My house is pretty much on all smart sockets including the dedicated outside socket . Or I suppose it’s just a case of when notified fully charged turning it off

The Continental TS860 winter tyre in picture in second example, has been replaced by newer TS870 in size 205/60 R16, so anyone ordering should check the specs. There is still a TS860 S (the high performance sport version) made in that size

Even when your phone is wired up for Android Auto, it'll still use bluetooth I'd either put your music on your phone or transfer it to an SD card and use that...

A VAQ Diff requires Oil Changes. You will get various answers from Service Desk Staff, ask what a Master Tech says, not a Workshop Manager. See the thread down the page on a Pre FL 230 vRS.

Cleaned the contacts in the big browm jobbie, all OK now.

No clue about start/stop, but considering that methods used in previous versions are not working and we don't have a dedicated start/stop button to be able to plug a start/stop eliminator harness ... a priori seems to be complex to remove.

the boot cover showing the location of the 2 screws and and the clip.

A fiddly but not too difficult job. You have to remove quite a lot of stuff in order to eventually remove the side panels. You'll need a long trim removal tool to pop out some of the more difficult to reach plastic/metal fasteners. Just wrenching at the whole panel may snap some of the push-fit plastic clips. A long trim tool gives much more precise leverage. All the metal fasteners have a Torx head. You'll need to remove the plastic trim below the boot lid slam panel before you start on the side panels. Also remove the rubber seal around the boot aperture. From memory you have to remove the upper panel (light coloured one in my photo) as well. Removing the seats will ease access for this job. There's some metal screws to remove, some hidden by rectangular caps (shown by the smaller arrows in the photo). One is tucked away behind the hooked luggage shelf support (larger arrow). Seem to remember a few metal screw fasteners, too, but these become obvious as you progress with the job. I also recall taking some of the floor panels out as well. Once these have been removed you can start carefully unclipping the push-fit clips with the trim tool. It's all a bit awkward but do-able. Hope this helps!

An aftermarket Radio you can switch between different colours, red - blue - green, all the others would have to be done manually, only ever tried it in an old Corsa years ago, but in the end I paid an auto electrician to do it and supplied the 'eBay kit',

Bolero MY17 I do not recommend wireless cameras - wired camera offers higher picture quality and no distortions. Use multimeter to identify +12V on one of rear wiper motor cables when ignition is on (I think this is brown cable but 100% sure).

I can smell the same rat as you. However I’ve just looked at the brochure and the basic drive package is £285 which gives you the drive mode selection. That doesn’t seem a lot more for, (presumably) more complicated dampers, extra wiring, different ecu, mode button etc. Maybe it is all already there and you pay extra for a button and enabling the software ? edit - I misread it and it’s £1070 more to get DCC edit 2 - Just looked at my car (no dcc) and there are no adjusting valves on the front struts or any wiring going to them.

And, if that's not enough, the engine sump is attached to the engine, and the gearbox plug to the gearbox, which is separated from the engine by the bellhousing.

Its a little ironic that a hacker like Uwe Ross makes loads of money hacking VW protocols and puts a load of barriers in the way to stop people hacking his hacks. Although OBD2 protocols may be public domain, VAG proprietary coding and protocols are most certainly not. Imo Rosstech, Obd eleven, carista and others are all hacker products, relying on information on forums or insider contacts to develop their products further What I find objectionable is when someone finds a successful hack to add or change features on their car, then publishes it on their or other public forum, firms like OBD eleven just grab this information and monetise it as a one touch function. And not giving any guarantee it will work or not brick/damage something in your car. Just a disclaimer buried in the small print to cover their backs.

Absolutely nowhere in my post am I attempting to protect the Skoda/VW brand or the Yeti model...... I never mention that, or intended it. Take it easy, buddy! I merely suggested that its unreasonable to expect a nine year old car to have no faults, and develop none, irrespective of how well designed the components are/were. As I said, I'm not unsympathetic, and I'm sorry I can't offer any specific ways forward for you. But there's no reason to flame me just because I mentioned that the age of the vehicle might have something to do with the problems. And I'm sorry if I offended you with my choice of words over the mileage. Would you have got so angry if I'd said "you haven't told us the mileage"? Just trying to offer a balanced contribution to the debate, not trying to ruffle anyone's feathers.