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Here it is... On H&R springs and Eibach 12mm spacers. It's even more beautiful live than in pictures. Overall, quite a step up from MK3.5

We do a lot of touring and get fed up with limited shelf space in the Octavia when we stop for coffee and a snack. I made this, will test tomorrow on an outing. Maybe get a happy meal! Only to be used when parked up of course ..

@HeavyMetalRich The reason i am careful about the Warranty T&C's and what is said here and elsewhere is because of the guff that can get trotted off at Skoda Dealership by Salespeople or Service Desk Staff including managers. They do that job full time in many cases so 5, 6 or sometimes 7 days a week and yet do not know an important part of the product they sell. They should know the T&C's word for word. It helps a customer with any issues if they get to know and understand the warranty as it is basically a financial / insurance agreement that is entered into by both parties.

As above, muddling info on wet clutch, dry clutch gearboxes, mechanical handbrake, EHB, Autohold no Autohold is just adding more confusion to the subject.

Bought myself a 2017 (MY18) Superb Sportline 280PS - no additional options from the high NZ spec. Only things that the car is missing are sunroof, heated windscreen and steering wheel (heated steering wheel not available that model year in NZ).

Hello All, Bought a Felicia Fun at auction a few weeks ago and starting a long renovation process on it... Had it shipped to where I am and getting parts sent up here to Orkney can be fun! This is one I bought, well wishes welcome! .......................

It's quite expensive, I agree. But the effect is very worth it. I would never do the PPF by myself. The bonnet has some very "hard to do" lines and curves. Not to mention the front bumper.

Being a Car Sprayer & Refinnisher says a lot... I'm a simple solutions consultant, so don't really have the skills, nor the appropriate working environment to do the job. Doing it on the driveway is not great, is it?

Yes but then i was a Car Sprayer & Refinnisher, but not a Wrapper. But i apply PPF like i do Window Tints. Carefully. Now using the likes of 3M Line Knifeless Tape is very good when applying PPF.

@Tishout Is Essex now no longer in the UK where Ebay / Amazon deliver PPF which is not that expensive and is not that difficult to apply properly if you learn how to using Youtube.

Here you go..... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEAT-LEON-MK3-VW-GOLF-AUDI-A3-HEATER-BLOWER-MOTOR-FAN-5Q2819021B-T1018603JL-/255004586404?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c2 https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/oenumber/5q2819021b.html

I think this is the problem of all new cars since classic paints were changed with water based paints which are much more sensitive to outside forces. Our second car, 2017 Fabia with 110 000 km, has a horrible bonnet. Much much worse than my ex car, 2003 Honda Accord with 330 000 km. Regarding the ceramic coating and protection against stones, PPF is the only protection that helps. I wrapped the whole front end on mine soon after I got it and after 11 000 km (cca 4 000 km made during the winter) I must say I'm very satisfied with the choice. Front end is holding very well. On the other hand I just cleaned my front windshield today and I saw there are already quite a few stone chips visible. 😞

Another wee thing. I do not actually know when VW / Skoda introduced that when you get a Low Oil Level or Low Oil Pressure Light or Message, that if you open the bonnet yet do nothing like check or top up the oil the Warning Light or Message goes out / off and might stay off for 100 km. Many people put in 0.5 litres of oil and think good the light is out. I know that a 1.4 TSI / TFSI 132-136 kW Twincharger with only an official 3.6 litre oil capacity can be 1.3 litres low before a Low Oil Warning light shows. If driving hard the Low Oil Pressure light or massage might show. Open the Bonnet and close it and no light for another 60 miles. Simply CRAZY Germans.

Noted. I'm not very mechanically minded but am eager to learn. So every single day is a learning day when it comes to this wee car.

It needs a full manual inspection, not just a quick look at the readily visible areas. As @HeavyMetalRich suggests, with the additional note that fabric armoured hoses are known to collapse internally whilst remaining visually fine.

I have a 1 litre DSG in my Seat, and S7 does come up, but need to be cruising and doing at least 63mph. My guess it it is programmed for over 100km/h I think the gear display shows : P, R, N D1-D7, S1-S7, E1-E7, M1-M7 and up and down arrows in M mode. I have a vague memory that also shows E when coasting in economy mode (but I haven’t used E for about 2 years, as need to manually press mode button each time, and doesn’t gain much)

However you read it on the flat do it when stone cold, then do it as it needs read to see if enough oil, which is once at operating temp so that is near to 90*oC indicated and a few minutes after the engine is stopped. VW / Skoda do not say what a few minutes is, but 4 or 5 is a few, 10 is not. You will see that this Skoda instruction tells you 1.2 44kW engines checked cold, others 'warm', well the VW, Seat & Audi manuals said 'Hot' or Normal Operating temp, in English or US English. The CZ Company do often have an issue as VW do with translation from German to Czech to Spanish, English and imagine to Chinese then back again.

Did you take it off for a proper look? Seems more often than not they crack under a clip or on the underside of the pipe on to one of the connections.

i) In general, German cars have 1 litre between min and max (and Germans don't bother topping up until the oil hits the low level, when they pour in all of the 1.0 litre of oil that they keep for this purpose). I'm not saying that this is a desirable way of going forward, just that its the way it is done in that culture. (And you can see a trace of this in the manual where they talk about topping the oil up once. This isn't totally meaningful if you don't know what volume that is...not that anyone takes much notice of that ) ii) With the dipstick (and I agree with you), you could try rolling it on to, eg, kitchen towel. If you are careful you can get a good idea of the oil level that way, although it is a bit stupid and not the most accurate thing in the world; Hey, design a part with really one function! Oh yes, everything works perfectly apart from reading the oil level, which is the one function the part was designed for. Ok, OK, I'll take that back, it was also designed to fit it a hole, but that shouldn't have tested the designers all that much. iii) Again, in general, you are, these days, you are warned not to over-fill the engine with oil. This is because, if you overfill the oil, there can be excess oil consumption, as the oil is burned off or goes through the breather system. This 'excess oil in the exhaust' can cause damage to catalytic converters and DPFs. Don't have those? Then it is less of a problem, unless you grossly overfill the engine, and the crank is splashing through it, worsening fuel consumption.

Yes I see that now thank you George, it wouldn't appear before for some reason. It was 3 months I thought the warranty period was for wear and tear items but it says 6 months very clearly in there too. No mention of 3000 miles anywhere... Except your post correcting me!😋

I tested this recently at night looking in the rear view on my 21 plate DSG Superb and the brake lights do come on, but go off if I manually engage the parking brake after auto-hold has activated. (Which I intend doing in the dark if I am to be sat for a while, as a courtesy to the car behind).

Thanks, first Skoda. I had a Golf Mk8 light hybrid before this and no matter how much I tried I just couldn’t enjoy it, so after six months I traded it in against the Skoda, which is more old school and more to my liking.

What do you mean the worst dipstick design? Are you telling me you can't read black oil, on black plastic?! I've found it wonderful for questioning myself as to whether the oil level is correct or not... like i've got dipstick ocd! They must have finalised that design decision at an office party whilst out of their heads on alcohol I swear! Is the car parked on a flat surface now? If so take another dip, or two, or ten and see where it sits. If you're concerned take a photo and attach it here. I can't remember the min and max but I'm fairly certain it's not less than 0.5l

Mine slows down for roundabouts and Junctions even if I have the ACC / Limiter disengaged, it won't bring the car to a stop like ACC does behind traffic but it definitely applies the brakes at roundabouts and junctions. I do know you can completely deactivate ACC by pushing the small stalk all the way back, I'm not sure if this stops the car from slowing down at junctions etc? I probably wasn't overly clear what I meant in my previous post so I'll try again. I appreciate that when in hybrid mode the car will use the battery when you're at slower speeds or you're barely touching the accelerator however, I believe it can be smarter than this with the skoda sat nav engaged. As an example, my car doesn't charge the battery while driving (except regen braking) but with the sat nav engaged, I've noticed that about 10 miles from home the charge bar suddenly fills and it stays like that until I have 3 miles of range back in the battery, this is obviously for when I get to town and the ICE can cut out. If I don't have the sat nav on, the battery doesn't charge as it doesn't know where I'm heading. What the OP wants to know is whether or not Waze provides the same functionality or if it only works with the built in sat nav.

Lovely looking motor! Welcome to the forums.

A small point but while DSG's work similarly there are differences with Wet Clutch 6 or 7 speeds and 7 speed twin dry clutch ones. Then how you might use them with a mechanical parking brake with Hill Hold Assist / Control or without or with 'Autohold' & an e-Brake. So when talking Karoq's you are thinking about cars with Stop / Start and e-Brakes but the different flavours of DSG's with engines 150ps / 250 Nm or less and those with that but Haldex, and then those with more than 150 PS / 250Nm and FWD or AWD. PS Putting the shifter into P (Park) has the DSG out of Gear but more importantly the wheels are locked with the Pawl. That is not 'To Sleep', that is the Front Wheels unable to move, the car can not roll.

Thank you for your replies. I feel alot more confident about the decision I have made. I really appreciate your input. The long wait begins - I have been told March / April 22.... I am in no rush. I'm selling a 330i G20, (dreadfully uncomfortable seat and the transmission tunnel intrusion to my left leg is giving me sciatica,) so it is going next week. Thankfully a chunk of equity and the monthlies saved waiting between now and next year will pay for the deposit. I've had a Mk2 and MK3 RS so looking forward to it. Thanks again P

thank you, i think that would be best as i have a feeling they probably wouldnt listen to me anyway.

So the processor on my desktop is compatible with W11 but I can't run the App because I'm running too old a version of Windows - so I can't tell if it's even worth me trying to upgrade because M$ won't let me run their App to tell if my motherboard is compatible (or can be made compatible)!

Car looks fantastic best of luck with it 👍

I think they want to add lane assist (uses the A5 camera) rather than lane change assist (blind spot assist) via radars. @Dajver - it'll depend exactly which camera you have but this post might help:

Genuine laugh for your comment from me, I like witty. 😄 I was going on the limited info given by the first post and throwing up my usual first (and contentious) idea it usually encourages others in, and often the more technical, throw enough mud (opening there) and some will stick. Checking the battery state, connections and charge is always a good idea on cars particularly these modern cars, I'm not technical but I do have 42 years of experience of owning and using cars and the car battery (and charging system) is a very neglected important item on vehicles hence the very high level of breakdown recovery call-outs for battery/charging problems and rarely for faulty components rather use neglect or not understanding. The car can start fine and headlights seem bright enough and the battery still be low enough during the heavy use that many modern cars and driver's give it that it's low enough to get the car's computers and programming to start playing up in all sorts of ways. I've been told many times that a battery was "good" went it wasn't and getting it good has sorted the problem or at least helped. This problem now looks a lot less likely (than even before) to be a problem with the battery but a battery in a good condition and sate of charge will help confirm rectification whereas the reverse could actually hinder or delay progress.

19s here... I got 12mm front and back and i like it. The car is just too elegant for 15mm spacers that go flat vs the wheel arch (typical sport cart). And it's on H&R springs so the arch feels closer due to the lowering.

Having read your "charge the battery" comments I agree.

I have had mine for close to 4 months but due to lockdown have only done 1600kms and those mostly in our (very mild) winter. Still, lately we have had days in the mid-twenties. I am someone who actually likes to blast cold air in my face so I miss being able to have two outlets at face level (centre and right) and hitting one button (in the days when cars still had buttons) to force the aircon to max. Our Golf Wagon has this and it is very effective in cooling you down when you start off on a hot day. Nevertheless I have found the Octavia in its default auto aircon mode does a very good job of getting the whole car to a pleasant temperature and maintaining it. And even if the centre vent cannot really blast air onto your face, the one next to the driver's door can blow onto your face, even if the volume is not so high.

I'm sure there's a preference setting where you can choose to have either Car heading 'up' or North 'up'. Your photo shows it is set to North 'up'

It's happened to me a couple of times. I have not found a way to stop it. Eventually it cleared itself on a restart and all the fuel usage computer settings had reset. I don't know if the radio or heating could be accessed during the fault, I don't remember trying. I think all the access was disabled. It made no difference to driving the car.

Yup. I've used it a few times to get wiring diagrams, service manuals and TPI/TSB's, If I recall, it's €7 + tax for an hour, other time periods are available too: https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do If torque will give the SW and HW part numbers along with the SW version, that should be enough.

Well the little orange low fuel light came on in the swift today with just 20 miles left in the tank. Left it till his evening and nipped out to the local petrol station and filled up no problem, although apparently the panic buying has affected the big Tescos and Sainsburys down the road... Daughter is happy though as it means I can slap the 'L' plates on and take her out for a driving session tomorrow

Still think over, what triple mistake/hit will Hamilton make tomorrow? Today he hits the wall twice in Q3, yesterday he hits the jackman (once), what's next?

My suspicion is your wash place is using something pretty strong as a pre-wash and it’s knackering the finish.

I just used the dark grey t-cut colour fast that I use on the bodywork. Comes up quite nice but there must be a way to protect it to stop it happening.

Words a mechanic will never say: "I messed something up and now I've fixed it properly, there'll be no charge and I'm sorry for the inconvenience." Words a mechanic will always say: "I'm infallible, something else is wrong with with it, it'll cost you more money if you want it done."

Hello and welcome. Engine code would help, look on the build codes sticker in the boot, or service book. I'll try to find without, but always easier with.

Hi all, I purchased my Scala SEL 110 BHP manual around May 2021. I got a lease, no extras. I came from owning a Fabia redline. I thought I really liked the fabia, until I got the scala. The scala is just better in almost every way. The only niggle is as the scala is a bigger car, its slightly heavier, and therefore not us punchy / nippy from a standstill. But that is only a small niggle. But that is only a small niggle. I agree the arm rest is little low and would have been nice with some adjustment, however I recently, actually today drove a fabia again, every time I got into the car I would want to rest my arm on the arm rest. I could not wait to get back into the scala. The scala has a much better ride quality and the interior is 100 % better, yes there some hard plastic, but so what? There is hard plastic in I think all cars in this segment and there some good quality soft plastic where it matters. Bottom line its a good buy, Skoda offers a lot for your money compared to other brands. More on the question about the Ford, I understand everyone has their own opinion and likes. I have found the inside of a ford look little dated and the infotainment screen just looks out of place / odd. The Scala has a bigger boot, its longer , however just ever so slightly narrower. At least you can test drive the 2, when I ordered the car we were in a lockdown and unable to properly test drive the Scala. ( still happy I made the purchase ).

I'll give them a call and see how I get on can't seem to get them to do any warranty work getting a bit sick of their excuses over the last few years they can't seem to find a fault in any car under warranty.

Don’t fit them yet brakes don’t warp unless they’re made from cheese. More likely there’s pad material on the brake discs. Try a few fairly hard stops from say 70 to 20 on an empty DC where it’s safe to do so. That might clean off the material.

HI Grajay - long time, no see . Keeping well?....Mmm🤔 Can't grumble, not too bad. Old age and all that. Thanks for the heads-up regarding the defective link! Probably due to recent update to Google Sites where the original document was kept. I now need to check several other links to other projects to see if they have been affected also. Time permitting I will update any defective ones that I find. Still a good number of them are reviewed or downloaded so they must be of some use to someone. The "Foils" one was the very first of those that I did. Thanks again for the heads-up 👍 To save time and try and make it easy, I have attached the original PDF copy of the instructions for you here. Hope it helps! As I remember, it was pretty easy to do especially if you spray or wet down the surface(s) with water with a very small amount of wash-up liquid in it. Best regards - Stay safe.....Tony SKODA YETI - Fitting Door Foils.pdf

Where I used to live were couple of speed humps, and owners of lowered cars used to look like so uncool trying to pussyfoot over the bumps at about half a mile per hour. People would always look, either because the person behind would honk in frustration at their slowness, or the screeching sound as the spoilers scraped the surface. Still if people enjoy looking like uncool idiot, let them lower their cars.