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If I wanted to give an idea of how this car feels like to drive I would have to say: "think of the Superb ok? and now turn everything that you've thought upside down and you're starting to get there" (both good and bad, that is) For starters, it's a 2016 manual (10 years since my last manual car...) 231bhp JCW. But it also had two crucial upgrades: It's on Eibach springs (saved me the trouble of doing that myself, car looks just perfect) and a valved Remus non-resonated cat-back ☺️ (I appreciated that modification more than I ever thought was important for me) . Previous owner had also ditched the awful stock run-flats for PS4's. Oh yes, and it's red with black roof. I would not buy many cars in red, actually it's the colour I was always steering away first from in all my previous cars but there's something about this caricature of a car (because that's what it really is) that makes it look so right on it. In fact i think it was one of the reasons to go for it after I saw it in the flesh thinking "i should just have some fun this time without over-thinking everything...: Now, as "cute" as it may look to some on the outside, it is completely the opposite when you're inside. First off, the engine sets of with a massive "VROOOOMMMM" and if it's doing its cold start and you have the valves open it sounds outright brutal. Not cheap, fake, or loud, but rather proper angry and purposeful, as if it was always that way. Then there's the steering wheel and clutch that are so heavy and so old-school feeling compared to most other modern cars and especially to what you think such a small car must feel like that it's giving you smiles before even taking it up to speed. Set off and you feel everything in your fingers, butt and ears, from road anomalies to how the engine is firing (probably an after-effect of the open valve and non-res exhaust that turns it into a straight piped setup after the cat...). Gear shifter slots in so nicely I found myself enjoying the very thing I was once mocking when people were on about "the pleasure of shifting your own gears". Probably not equally enjoyable in a manual Astra but in this car it completely makes sense. Suspension is definitely on the firm side but not crashy. My Fabia vRS on H&R springs and Bilstein B8s was punishing on imperfect surfaces but this one no. And then you arrive at your first corner and the real appeal of the car becomes apparent. The immediacy of the steering and the response/lack of resistance of the whole car to your input is hard to describe and hard to expect. There's a new (to me) feeling that the car does not steer front first then rear follows but from somewhere between the steering wheel and the back of the seat, almost exactly where you're sitting, with front and rear rigidly connected as one piece. It takes a while to get used to it. At first I was either applying more lock than it really needed or I was cornering at a much slower speed than the car could take the corner in, you need to delete your old thresholds of inertia, grip etc. and re-calibrate yourself to it. Seating position is great. Car is already low and by picking a low position also, you feel you could reach out for the road with your hand. Coupled with the excellent support from the buckets this allows you to push with even more confidence the more you learn the car. The day I returned home i took it straight to a "reference" b-road nearby despite having driven 350km to get back as I couldn't wait to try it in a suitable environment and boy did I have some good time... Exhaust valves fully open and the engine noise turning from a throaty to sharp, racecar-like tone as it approached 6K rpm, (Remus really has nailed it with this setup, didn't expect it from a 4-pot), steering wheel throwing everything that was on the road at my palms, focus on the shift, slot it in, MASSIVE pops and bangs on every lift-off, repeat! Prior driving it, I though it would be similar to the GTI Clubsport DSG I owned before the Superb, but it is a completely different experience. The GTI was so efficient but at the same time it would feel like a standard Golf when you were not driving it at 9/10. I now realized the DSG also made much of the driving "automatic" (pun intended). This one shows its true character as soon as you start it up, it demands your attention even to reverse it and encourages you to thrash it at the first chance you get. It's firmer, noisier, less refined, and with much less comforts and gadgets than I have had for some time. With its retro, analog styling it feels more like a restomod for the track than a 2016 car, auto folding mirrors and rear cam you say? it doesn't even have CarPlay! But i don't care. For now it is giving me all that I've missed for some time in huge amounts. Will it at some point become tiring? I don't know but then again, it doesn't have to be driven everywhere all the time (although for now I do want to drive it everywhere 😆) as there's another ordinary and much friendlier car available. So yes, happy times. Some photos:

I wouldn't trust halfrauds to pump up a push bike tyre

Sun rising in one direction and the Moon still very much in evidence in the other this morning..........

Please no spam only post new coding that is not here... if you like the manual give me a like thx OCTAVIA IV CODING tested working coding obdeleven To verify 3 steps unlock SFD, 1 is registration add name ... which was normal, then parking brake must be on, hood open, ignition on... SFD unlock each module in aplication , not only 1 , u need to unlock all... Lane Assist to "Last setting" (asistent jazdného pruhu na "posledné nastavenie" ) EN- driver assistance (module A5) > long coding > Configuration for lane departure warning KI15 > change to "last setting" SK- asistencia vodiča (modul A5) > dlhé kódovanie > Konfigurácia upozornenia na vybočenie z jazdného pruhu KI15 > zmena na "posledné nastavenie" VRS CLUSTER THEME: Control unit 17 - Adaptations - view activation (Zobraziť aktiváciu) - all which are OFF should be ON (Set all views to active) Speed warning: Control unit 17 -long coding-speed warning take off or on G-meter: Control unit 17 - adaption- configuration of displayable contents -set G-Meter -> active Charging pressure ( turbo boost show) (zobrazenie turba): Control unit 17 - adaption- configuration of displayable contents -set charging pressure to active (bost pressure) Engine torque and Engine power: Control unit 17 - adaption- configuration of displayable contents- engine power and torque set active Oil temperature Control unit 17 -long coding-oil temperature display-set active, this function factory set on.. Automat transmission temperature , oil temperature and coolant (water) temperature: Control unit 17 - adaption- configuration of displayable contents- Transmission temperature set active Disable seat belt warning: Control unit 17 -long coding- seat belt warning verison1, version 2 or off- set off to turn off warning Show Volume to be Replenished (zobraziť kolko l dotankovať): Control unit 17 -long coding: volume to be replenished set active or on Laptimer: Control unit 17 -long coding- lapcounter set to active or on, other activation: Control unit 17 - adaption- configuration of displayable contents -set lapcounter-active Control unit 17 - adaption- personalization- display_laptimer to active Staging, Needle Sweep, indicator celebration: Control unit 17 -long coding-Staging set yes Rear DRL Lights (rear daytime running lights) (zadné svetlá ako denné) 1.Module 09 - Electronic control unit 2.Adaptation 3.Daytime running light 4.Tagfahrlicht-Dauerfahrlicht aktiviert zusaetzlich Standlicht: - (Change value to On) CONFIRMED WORKING ADD Enable / Disable daytime running light in menu radio: DRL In lighting menu (Attivazione e disattivazione delle diurne da menù) - Select control unit 09 - Select Adaptation - Select Daytime running lights ( Per gli italiani, Luci Diurne) - Select Tagfahrlicht Aktivierung durch BAP oder Bedienfolge moeglich, Set to Active Lock when car engine runs: Control Unit 09 Adaptation ZV allgemein funk bei klemme15- set active Menu of control door locking view : Menuesteuerung Tuerentriegelung: or in English Menu control door release: -Select Multimedia 5F ecu -Adaption - Vehicle menu operation menu_display_central_locking > not activated ( original is activated and where is off take on)menu_display_central_locking_over_threshold_high > not activated (set activated)

My daughter's FII - BXW engine - failed its MOT because of a leak behind the flexible exhaust pipe. I bought a kit on Ebay which included the flex pipe, 2 x 48mm clamps and exhaust putty. The exhaust had a small leak at last year's MOT which got an advisory and we should have fixed it really for this MOT. Well, I tried with a larger hose clamp and sealant but it did not convince the tester. I started by marking the cuts on the exhaust pipe and undid the front end to the manifold. There are 3 x 16mm bolts to take off which can be a little stuck, and a XZN bolt. I left the back section in place and cut with a small angle grinder that part straight and did the front end on a bench. The replacement fits over the old exhaust. The OD is 45.2mm and it was a good and tight fit with the new part. There is about 5 cm overlap on the old exhaust. I tried to clamp it first without the exhaust putty but still had a small leak so had to fit it with exhaust putty and the leak was gone.

I don't think you will need different window motor modules. Only on earlier cars does the electric mirror wiring go via them. On a 2006 car it goes direct, I believe.

I have the xtreme alloy on my 2017 VRS 245, I've actually been looking at changing them for the vrs 18s so I can put crossclimate tyres on the car as we'll be driving out to the Alps (hopefully) this winter.

Michelin Cross Climates is a specific make. Other all season tyres are avaiable

I agree Mick, looking again, it's way too small for a Goshawk. Gaz

Good to know. Does make me think that a simple battery change should have an option in the menu for resetting.

Wow....how many times do u spray ur windscreen!?!?! The headlights only get sprayed the 1st and 5th sprays, and only if the low beams r on.

That just messes up,the playlists not what I want, if I'm listening to an album I want to continue listening to that album when I get back into the car.

Avoid summer tyres, go for all season, my personal preference is Nexen N-blue but there are other makes😉 Summer tyres seem to be the majority of tyres sold in this country.

Female sparrowhawk my guess

Skoda recommends to start driving immediately but without going to town with revving. Normally the engine will warm up in about 5 minutes. Then you can go to rally with this small family car.

I also have the VRS iV and love it! No issues with mine apart from the buggy infotainment but hardly even notice any issues with that now after all the updates. I get about the same as others mpg wise, 75-85 but have had it on 300mpg before but that was after only ever using electric for a week or so without the engine used at all. Charges with a 3 pin uk plug from empty to full in 3-4 hours. Good news is the value has rocketed due to the current issues with new cars, its only 8 months old and I am already in positive equity! If I could get hold of a new car now I would trade it in for a full EV but can't get them anywhere. IMG_0323.HEIC

Dear All , Thought to share experience last week while driving locally I saw all three lights (Engine light ECU , Stability light) came up on dashboard and sacred me as though some thing seriously wrong in car, but noticed that driving was fine and car was NOT strolling, I drove very slowly back home and start googling, went to local mechanic he was kind to run free scan and found that (16955) P0571 code, but since he it was electrical fault so he was helpless since he did not had skill to resolve electrical issues. After searching issue in this site I found the solution , thanks to gentleman in this website - who advised to look 1st brake light bulbs which was easy fix , I immidately tested and found that both the brake light bulbs were fused. So replaced them and found that 2 lights gone. I understood that issue has been fixed since skoda has smart mechanism to removing the engine light after a while if associated errors are fixed, and thats excatly happened after 5 miles , engine light gone. (Dash board back to silent mode - no lights) Each bulb was around 50p in Europarts. Wondering why so much complicases for silly issues why Skoda have to raise very serious alarm on dash board as though car is going to dye sooner. Though to share experience as it may help somebody, Best would be keep some spare bulbs and always check all light,indicators before even going to mechanic. Thanks Regards raky

This is my first car, a 2006 Skoda Fabia 1.2 HTP with BME engine. Bought it for only 1500€, which I think is a very good value for what I got. It had 96 000km on the clock, a broken passenger power window, and some little things to repair here and there. I have had it for a year and a half and have already made quite a few modifications to it. I'll try to remember everything to document it on this post. What I already done to the car : - Install a bluetooth headunit (Pioneer MVH-S420BT), replaced front speakers (JBL Stage2 624) and installed rear ones ad the wiring was just not there (JBL Stage2 424). - Repair the broken passenger power window. It took a lot longer than it should, I stripped everything down and it turns out it was a missing CANBUS pin in the A-pillar connector (from body to door). - Buy and refurbish original VRS alloys. (I took a lot of picture so I'll need to find a way to share this with you) - Change Dashboard and buttons LEDs from green to cool white. (I have a few photos and videos of the process that I'll share later as it's still work in progress) and more small repairs or upgrades... And here's a list of thing I want to do, or think of doing later : - Install a rear anti-roll bar, lowered springs and shocks to go with it. - Polish the whole car and put ceramic coating on it after doing some paint touch-up following ChrisFix video. The paint has some defects such as deep scratches and rock chips. - Get the windshield replaced (or repaired, if possible) because a small rock decided to land on it while I was driving. - Retrofit front anti-fog lights and electric wing mirrors.

even the reviews say you have to thrash the nuts of the 3 cyl.............our friend here is proof !!.... 4 cylinder wins even more points 😁

Thank you!!

Flat ground is great for fuel economy, I managed to get 6.5L/100km in town when driving slowly. I saw your Fabia with the new windscreen, it looks really good !

You can go into 5th gear on flat ground from just above 25mph I've found. I wish it was the same over here! A new windscreen can change how old a car feels IMO. Made mine look like new even though it's done 56,000 miles and had a pretty hellish life. Be sure to keep us in the loop when you delve further into your project. Briskoda isn't good for the wallet, just a warning in advance.

I have finally been able to measure with the iPhone app that I measured the other time on the same stretch of highway in Madrid (M40). Measurements have been 61db at 90 km / h, 63 dB at 100 and 65db at 120 km / h, it has reduced it by about 6-7 db on average, a great success. To be honest that stretch of road is smooth but the gain I can extrapolate to any road. Remember that I have done, not at a professional level, trunk, B-pillar, wheel arches, engine hood and all 4 doors. It is a lot of work and about 200 euros, but it is worth it. The biggest source of noise today is the rear view mirrors.

for me personally, if the 1.2 HTP is the 3 cylinder, they are inherently "rough" imo.............so the 4 cylinder 1.2 TSi would win all day for me. As far as reliability, the earlier TSi's had or can have timing chain issues, so worth looking to see if it's been done or not, even if it has not, would still be my choice. Don't have any experience to speak off regarding the HTP, but I will say this, I test drove several fabia's and Polo's with this engine before buying my Mk1 vRS and ALL off them just seem rough on idle, just not smooth or balanced

They are truly exceptional cars We have a 2019 SEAT Mii (59 BHP), which beyond occasionally sticking rear brakes has been excellent. Has averaged 53 MPG over the last 26k miles and not out of its depth on the motorway. I did consider a new Aygo recently, but the test drive put me off and I opted to stick with the SEAT!

It sounds like the veins are sticking. Try lubricating the actuator first....this won't work unless the engine is running. Try putting through some EGR cleaner through the car. My personal recommendation is https://www.hydra-int.com/diesel-power-blast.html; then try taking the car for a fast progressive journey for about 50 odd miles.

Its not hard to do; for reference, this is the link from Ross-tech on how to do it - instructions can be used with VCDS and ODBEleven PRO. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Battery_Replacement

Solid choice with a BME engine IMO, at least for a first car. It's a good looking car in that 'slate' colour I reckon it wouldn't be too difficult to wire in some fog-lights depending on how you did it. I don't know about the electric mirrors (probably need VAG-COM/VCDS) along with an upgraded convenience module. I wish you all the best with your car and I cannot wait to see what you do next!

I changed my own battery then took it to my local independent for coding, who struggled to start with but after advice from on here, he sorted it.

If Halfrauds don't automatically do this simple change then they really shouldn't be fitting batteries to any vehicle with stop/start (AFAIK they all have some form of Battery Management System).

@ScottyNS As you have found, the full lock turns will have cleared the DASH lights but if they have not coded the new battery to the car, then it will not charge correctly (it won't go dead though so not to worry for now). There is an adaption that needs to be carried out using diagnostic software that tells the car its got a new battery and this works out the charging characteristics of the battery installed. VCDS, OBD11 can do this easily but Halfords do not have the capability to do this from what I understand but they will certainly flog you a battery and charge you to bung it in. Also you might need to check your one touch window operation, to reset, put window up and hold for 10 seconds.

AS IF !!!! - As if VW* would do anything like that !! Wash your typing digit(s)! * or any other car manufacturer 😄

But then you have stop/start. There are just too many variables to account for.

Petrol was nowhere near £1.60 a litre in the 1980s. About 35p a litre..... https://api.parliament.uk/historic-hansard/written-answers/1996/dec/11/fuel-prices

For any dog owners interested I went for the guardsman dog guard and boot buddy liner, both of which fit perfectly. https://www.guardsmandogguards.co.uk/product/skoda-enyaq-dog-guard-part-no-g1613/ https://www.boot-buddy.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQiA-eeMBhCpARIsAAZfxZC4h_nm2aV3-RHtgcKM1n5D0dMOxD--VBg5Pa5keREjMCQwR5tXif0aAhvNEALw_wcB S

Both good points. Also to consider (unless I've missed it) is that the engine might not be original to the car or of original type to the car and whilst I am a gospel of the good books of the Driver's Handbook / Owner's Manual you must always bear in mind that the books were written in their time and not the present and referring to a factory standard car that is new, allowing for some aging and wearing but I can't remember any Service Record books going to 20 years, well not the cars I had we had anyway. What is available today might not have been available, or readily available, back then. Also this car and engine has been modified. The Driver's Handbooks usually say something like it's best not to leave the car idling and to drive off but I don not think 5 or 10 seconds before pulling away will do too much damage, it's not the same as leaving the engine running whilst the car heats up and/or whilst clearing the windows or car of water, frost or snow. I am not sure D. Fylatos would cope with a Fabia Mk3 as all the computers interfering often has the engine idle running rough from a cold start up, the scan tool would permanently be on dash (sorry, D. only joking).

Re the question of pence per mile for a diesel. It very much depends on which car you compare. My previous Karoq 2.0 4x4 averaged 45.3 for the 3 years 37k miles I had it, so basically 10 miles per litre. Yesterday I noticed the average price of diesel is £1.50 a litre! 15p a mile in my old car. So I don't think the RAC figure is wildly out. Even on my peak tariff of 23p per kWh my ID.4 gave 6.7p per mile yesterday over 180 mixed miles. (3.4 miles per kWh) I'm off to Aldi / Tesco later to get some free electrons to lower that figure further.

Headlight washers not working is an MOT fail and against the law. do so at your own risk alternatively, switch the headlights off when you use the headlight washer

If not older, actually, since it's an old design engine revised for when the Felicia came out (was it around 1994, no?).

Looks like a Goshawk to me. Gaz

Hi - The paint code is F7Y for Quartz Grey Metallic. Don't know where the sticker is on the car, but that's the code on my touch up kit from Skoda.

Came across a bit of a commotion in a neighbour's garden earlier. The crows and magpies in the surrounding trees were making a tremendous racket!! Certainly sad for the pigeon, but remarkable to see the the bird of prey in action close-up. Just a shame I didn't have my camera with me.

So …. Having re-shod my fairly recently acquired SE-L Exec 4x4 dsg tdi 190 estate with 17”. Audi wheels & all weather tyres decided to take to Exeter Protyre for the 4 wheel alignment check every vehicle I buy gets. And yes, both front & rear requires some adjustment. Guy starts to explain about calibration of what I took to be ACC (having already read this thread). He called it the ADAS (Advanced Driver Assistance System) and as he explained the rationale my heart sank at facing potentially a very expensive bill. Anyway at the end he said they have the equipment to do this on site & it could take up to an hour to complete including the alignments themselves. So asked him what all this costs … £75 for the alignment & another £150 for the ADAS re-calibration … phew better than £400 odd but even so … then he adds “however Protyre have a special promotion at present and the cost is £150 for both together.” Deal! was my instant reply! BTW … He also mentioned that next year the ADAS system would be included in MOTs for vehicles so equipped but I couldn’t stay to find out how. So … Heads up!! Protyre being a national company, opportunity at present to get 4 wheel alignment & ACC re-calibrated at a seriously bargain price.

But then the Mk5 will get announced and deliveries won't start for a year. It's already happened to the new T-roc and others. 🤣

I bought a 17 Plate 280 on just short of 50k miles a year ago. No problems yet, doesn't seem to burn any oil and still goes like the clappers. Main dealer history is no guarantee things should have been done as they should. Mine had 2 DSG oil changes and no record of Haldex but the filter was cleanish when I had it done so who knows if it had been done or not. I only do 6k a year so will be low mileage in a couple of years. It was much cheaper than any others about at the time due to the slightly higher miles.

Welcome to the forum. Best assume nothing and try to find out what use it did get, was it long runs of short ones working many hours. Did it start as a Dealership Demonstrator / Sales Managers perk? Look at the Service History but also any Warranty History on the Skoda System. Is the windscreen clear of chips. Is the paintwork original with chips repaired or more paintwork to the front / bonnet? Are the 4 tyres good, the brakes maybe replacements by now, even the battery already replaced. So the servicing @ 50,000 miles but only 50,000 miles should mean that at least 2 oil and filter services were done, or was it on fixed interval services? The Haldex has been serviced at least once but even twice by now and the DSG oil change done at 40,000 miles or sooner. If it has a FMDSH that should be a history showing stuff as done to the Manufacturers Recommendations but might well show them as not having been done.

Hi Rob and welcome to the Forum. The first (and easiest) thing to check is for broken wires in the loom between driver's door and A pillar. This is a known problem on Roomsters (and certain other models) and is the main cause of apparently unrelated electrical issues similar to yours. Do a search on here for broken door loom. The plastic shroud that protects the loom can be pulled back very easily for inspection of the wires. Good luck 🤞 Edit: I'll ask the Mods to move your post to the Roomster owners' section, where it will get more attention.

Or any other European country e,g. Germany, Turkey, Switzerland etc. that has restrictions on displaying speedcams on satnav devices but thankfully you can turn the speedcam display and audible alerts off in the device settings before entering any affected countries. That is the official advice given by the manufacturer TomTom to their particular device owners. Obviously, the onus is on anyone driving in a foreign country to make themselves aware of any motoring rules and regulations before driving there.

If the data sticker is missing from the boot/service book and there is no sticker on the cambelt cover, on UK cars the code can be found on the V5 vehicle logbook, the letters at the start of the engine serial number are the engine code.

hi folks just share my experiencies, had a problem with cold start, changed glow plugs (originals was good, I saved them) checked the wiring to glow plugs, positive poles form battery and fuses and the relay 103. The original with number103 was bad, bought a cheap one, what I checked and worked good when I checked, BUT the problem not solved. Under 10 Celsius rough cold start, at 11 Celsius everything OK. I lost. Used a year with this issue this winter and changed the starter, but it was a bad idea, it was a weak cheap french and rebuild the rebuilded bosch with my friend and took it back. Cold start not changed. Somwhere on VW forum I red, the cheap relay not working properly, so I bought a Beru GR081. Indeed changed the cambelt, waterpump and the coolant too. When i changed the relay problem solved. I was very happy. So my opinion need a good relay like bosch or beru and need to change the coolant too. I think with old coolant the CTS cant send a proper signal to the computer, what is very sensitive for weak resistant. I had an issue with coolant level sensor, cleaned inside the bottle a very thin copper stick and the problem dissapeared. I had before an A3 with abs problem (change the abs cube to used 500 british pound) but when I cleaned the fuses on the top of battery problem solved. So the resistance is very important. I hope can help to anyone