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All, thanks for your time. Problem solved, well at least found, small split underneath in the short rubber pipe immediately after the turbo. You were right all along about checking for leaks, it was the "throttle" position that was bugging me, but that's really just for the EGR process. Last time I did serious commercial car spannering we were really chuffed to have central door locking! Things have moved on.

Yesterday Sunny South Ayrshire.

That kit did contain the wheel cylinders: Pagid Brake Shoe Kit | Euro Car Parts 3.5 years is possibly enough time for something to seize up inside. Take the cover off that allows you to see the equaliser bar behind the handbrake lever, and see if it skews sideways when the handbrake is applied. That usually suggest a seized pivot inside one drum.

Higher levels of ethanol actually make the fuel more knock resistant, not less. This is why cars like the koenigsegg CCR make more power on bio than on mineral based fuels. There's a MASSIVE amount of nonsense talked about fuels.

The absolute best advice I can give you is get them to take it back and get your money back. Call the dealer tomorrow. Don't delay. It's virtually certain to be leaking at the interface between the aluminium and plastic. See Yeti_Panoramic_Roof_Leak.pdf (yetiownersclub.co.uk) . Seriously, don't entertain trying to fix it. It will fail again. Get your money back.

I've found a comprehensive list of Skoda paint names and codes... but note that these are the European names and some are renamed by Skoda UK for the UK market. Examples are Lava Blue becomes Petrol Blue, and Steel Grey becomes Meteor Grey. Skoda paint codes.pdf Chris

They take the £2.50 rather easily and divulge the keepers information without asking their permission.

Don't turn the ignition on while the airbag is disconnected.

Colourful sunset this evening (and a bright moon)............

Here. https://www.gov.uk/request-information-from-dvla

Reminds me, I need to check our Fabia over in the next month or two in this area. It's been a while. I think @Bertie90 you can test the handbrake function yourself fairly easily. Apply handbrake to normal position, chock front wheels and put in gear; Jack up both sides of the rear until the rear wheels are off the ground, then see if you can turn either wheel by hand. If that shows one side not getting braked as much as the other and the equaliser bar is also pulling to one side it would be fair to think that there is a real problem. A stretched cable on one side could also cause these type of symptoms, I guess.

Haha, I do that as well. The switches for the rears certainly fall to hand by default. The whole switch set needed shoved back a bit.

I find the electric window switches poorly placed. Too often I end up winding the back window down when I want to wind the driver window down. They're too close together and the back one is in a more accessible place.

You can make the update while driving or with engine running.

I think it is pointing to an air leak in the air pressure pipes between the turbo/ intercooler & inlet manifold. Look for any sign of black sprayed oil residue on any adjacent surface which will be ejected from any split or leak. Also check the throttle valve on the inlet manifold. They get covered in black sticky EGR crud & start to jam up, although your fault codes don't really support this. If you remove it to clean, remove the plastic cover on the side as well. It covers the electronics & drive motor. I have found some to be completely full of black conductive engine oil in the past which of course shorts out the electronics. Give all the electronics a good clean with something like brake cleaner including the electric motor.

Just shown up in OBDeleven apps so have turned it on to selectable and now it shows up on my settings screen

Also @vonweiser Nta has the right general idea. My point about modern VAG gauges is that, by design, they don't show a "true reading" unless the engine is still cold or is very hot. A couple of my mates' girlfriends ran BL cars with "temperature gauges" back in the early 1980s, and the usual conversation after working on them was "$mate, where does the temperature gauge on your GF's car usually read when it's up to hot?", and the answer could be anything from "just outside cold" to "just short of the red".

I ordered a 1.5tsi SE estate in mid-July and was given an ambitious mid-November delivery date needless to say this wasn’t met. However, just this morning had a email from the dealer to say the car has just left the line and is sat awaiting transport to the port for shipping. It should be available to pick up from the dealer in January, so all in all not to long a wait…

Slightly left field idea, well for this time in the morning, but you could just neutralise the rattle by squirting some glue in these, give it a gentle shake to get the coin to slide around and meet the glue, and then it should stick to the “floor” somewhere. Look on the positive side, it will up the value of the car! 👍

front/rear 340/310 both vented for 272/280ps 4x4 310/300 front vented for all rest replaced to Otto Zimmermann -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/407627-rear-disc-brake-wear/?do=findComment&comment=5306861

It very much depends on your model as to which brakes you need. I might be wrong but on the 220/280hp the rears are vented and 310mm , if yours is not vented then it should be 300mm. I’m buying these personally very soon, but getting my local dealer to install them for £150, expensive I know but independent was around £5 cheaper https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/brembo-brake-disc-10444224A https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/brembo-brake-pad-10144208A

Mines a 272 but the figures should be more or less the same. Over 2 years, mine has done 32mpg on average over 18000 miles. That’s a mixture of all road types. On a run, close to 40 is possible and in town, it’ll be mid 20s. Mine isn’t remapped. Yet.

If there was no physical difference, they'd have the same part number. Differences may be small, presumably to work optimally with springs with different properties. You would want to fit new shocks as well as springs though, wouldn't you? Especially at the front, unless you knew they were recent?

Report him for leaving the seen of an accident and best report the pain from the strain of the handlebar jarring when he broke your mirror out of the brake bracket I suggest. PNC is not accessible directly by the public but police should help as will the insurance for your bike and personal injury damage.

My bad... You are right, was looking at the motorcycle guide where 4.1.4c isn't listed! 🤦‍♂️ It does appear to suggest that rule is specifically for halogen units which leaves it a bit of a grey area for LED in HID, but the literal interpretation of the rule itself should fail the conversion.

Indeed, the 898 cc TCE Renault is\was a good engine and with ECO mode is a capable of high 60 mpg on the computer and in the Twingo GT was putting out 109 hp. Always ran my Dacia Logan on 95 Tesco and it did well and got it up to 115 on one occasion. E10 has 2% less energy value than E5 petrol so one has to expect one or so less mpg. If people buy more E5, or even the Esso with no ethanol, then Uk government may have to tweak the taxation levels to encourage E10 use if it really is better for the environment.

Itching to take the Fabia a wee jaunt down to Girvan again. I'll give my mate a ring and see if he fancies it.

The ship was to the left of the muffin.

I checked the receipt and it was Pagid rather than Eicher for the Fabia. The Brembo set was the same price. I changed my wife's front discs and pads this year on a Nissan Note and used Eicher. Eicher are no worse than OEM so far. The Brembo set was only £30 more. For the Note Brembo prices are only midfield.

I've been using mostly Tesco hi octane for 3 years and have had no problem, so I'd suspect the sensor. It'll probably much cheaper than changing the plugs which with Skoda are a ripoff.

As a qualified tech trained in ADAS too I can promise you geometry and wheel alignment make a huge difference. To start with the radar has no way of knowing direction of travel without steering wheel input and setting the radar up to be perfectly parallel to the cars straight ahead alignment (done off the rear axle) this is done to a tolerance of 1-2mm to give you an example of how import it is. The radar doesnt look straight ahead and know everything and its position relative to the car, it needs to be told this and thats why it needs calibrating. Adjusting alignment, front bracket placement, replacing suspension components, moving subframes all have the chance to throw this out.

Here you go, it hasn't been driven for five days so braking surface is a bit rusty. These were fitted in September 2020.

Thanks Wino 🙂👍

Well, as someone who has autolocking deactivated, I certainly won't worry about those scenarios.

Not the same engine, and I'm not sure if the EGR valve is exactly the same or not, but I found this link educational, especially with regard to what the pneumatic side of these valves appears to control: EURO ACADEMY Blog: Volkswagen Group, 1.6 CAYC diesel engine, exhaust gas recirculation system - EGR. (carworkshopblog.blogspot.com) "A pneumatic valve actuates the gas bypass flap. When the coolant temperature is lower than 30 °C, the gas does not pass through the [EGR cooler heat] exchanger. When the coolant reaches 30°C, the gas is allowed to flow to the exchanger."

I haven't fitted mud flaps since the 70s when I thought they looked cool 🤔. I would never fit them now unless I regularly drove on very dirty or loose surfaced roads. Front flaps will prevent some gunk and stones hitting the underside of the sills, but the rear end of the sills will still get hit/dirty. Rear flaps will prevent little unless they touch the road and if drivers behind me are getting sprayed due to the lack of my mudflaps, then they're driving too close. Any mud, stones etc that mudflaps prevent from travelling backwards will end up dirtying and maybe damaging your wheel arches, so frankly, I'd rather it stayed on the road.

The actual oil and coolant temperatures will be very similar since there is a heat exchanger that links them together. PD's generally run cool anyway.

Seems a few of us have just had similar emails from our dealers. I've just had an email to say my car has changed to STATUS30 which means its built and is in transit to the port and to expect it early in the new year. Good news as I was previously told to plan for it not being here by Feb when my lease car goes back.

Petrol or diesel engine?

What's up with old?! My two owned cars are a 1955 Land-Rover and and 1969 TR 6 (I have a small company car)...my daughter will just have more excuses for getting lost and something other than her navigation skills to blame! My main concern is the state of the battery inside the unit... Thanks for the advice - Mark

I'm curious as to why you didn't reject the car immediately when you noticed the carpet was wet the day after you got it?

Front brake pads 160 x 64.5 x 20.5mm 5Q0698151 5Q0698151A 5Q0698151B 5Q0698151D 5Q0698151F 8V0698151 8V0698151B 8V0698151D 8V0698151G https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302215154738?epid=248957621&hash=item465d6d4c32:g:XKwAAOSwKkhhoAVu https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/partno/dpx2150 Rear brake pads 123 x 61 x 16mm 3Q0698451 3Q0698451B 3Q0698451C 3Q0698451D 3Q0698451E 3Q0698451F 3QF698451 5G0698451 5Q0698451P 5Q0698451S 8V0698451A 8V0698451D https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292017894849?epid=249042643&hash=item43fd9f75c1:g:X-wAAOSw0J5hoHx3 https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/partno/dpx2173 Front brake discs 312mm 1K0615301AA 5C0615301B 5Q0615301F https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bosch/1165914 Rear brake discs 300mm 3Q0615601 3Q0615601A https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bosch/7885168

What's the service history of the car like, as in GIGO for computers if you air filter hasn't been replaced you might not be getting the cleanest air through the engine. If they changed the air filter you'd hope they also changed the plugs but it's all charge and some people (and garages) would sooner save on such items. Once you've sorted this issue out and are confident in the car put in a couple of tanks full of Tesco Moment99 or Shell V-Power (yes they are a lot more expensive) for their additional cleaning additives and have a few Italian tune-up runs to blow the cobwebs out. Blimey, I almost forgot, if you like a peaceful life do not let the car battery get too low, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough and there are no warnings, the battery could still be too low for the very invasive and intertwined VW computer programs and they may play up in all sorts of strange ways.

I was polite, I wanted to know if you really believed that there were no additives in supermarket fuel which you have not answered. Have you perhaps confused my posting with Root-Toot who spoke of 'total nonsense!" I am not disputing that some additives in premium fuels which may not be present in supermarket fuel bring benefits and many say that they get better MPG which covers the extra cost, I am not disagreeing with or challenging anything, I simply wanted to know if you genuinely believe that there are no, zero, none, additives in supermarket fuel or had just expressed yourself incorrectly. I recall when fuel, supermarket or otherwise had no additives apart from lead and made my (2nd) living decoking engines, replacing rotten exhausts, changing filthy congealed sump oil etc, then they started adding detergent additives to all fuels including supermarket fuels and I have never had to decoke an engine or grind in valves ever since,(racecars aside) it was late 80's perhaps early 90's. My pal worked for a nationwide company supplying fuel pumps & forecourt equipment and another delivered fuel from the refineries, all the fuels had additive packages, the premium fuels had different ones that they made big claims for but a lot of what they claimed was in the basic additive package anyway, they may have had higher percentages of some and different versions of others, they don't publish what they are.

Take the block out, turn upside down & shake?

@Woodside99 board search -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/search/?q=rattles orchestra&type=forums_topic&nodes=299

Update. I figured rather than mess around I'd get the loom changed. Got back in touch with the main dealer, got the part number - 5L0971120GA for my 2012 model - £130+VAT. Got a crazy labour quote. Rang my local garage, got a better labour quote, gave them the work. They also collected the car and returned it, and it coincided with my MOT being due which I'd get them to do anyway. (aside: MOT passed with just a note about the front brake pads being low - woo-hoo!). I asked to keep the removed loom. So here it is. - definitely knackered. - glad to see that the new one has the U-shaped boot.

Well I finally got Hive installed on Friday - we’re getting fitted wardrobes installed and the fitters had asked for the programmer to be moved. I mentioned to the plumbers that I was thinking of getting smart heating fitted and they said that they could fit a Hive system (compatible with Apple HomeKit) for just the cost of the kit, as the labour cost was the same as moving our existing programmer. so far really pleased with it - after an initial call to Hive support as I couldn’t get the app to see the thermostat, even though it was working perfectly on as a normal non-app-controlled programmer, Hive dialled into it, ran through a few reset procedures with me and it was up and running with HomeKit! The programmer’s been installed where the old thermostat was, and as per @Lady Elanore’s setup, the hub and receiver are installed by the router. The cupboard’s a bit of a mess, as I still need to tidy up from where the power and data was run to the garage…I must have known more work was going to be done, hence not getting on to that sooner…at least that’s what I’m telling myself! I like it so far, and it’s nice to be able to set different temperatures throughout the day…it’s certainly a lot easier to program via the phone than the tiny screen on the old programmer! Thanks to all of you that gave advice on this topic 👍

Can't believe it took me a year to notice... after the crash repair there was no L&K emblem / badge on the left hand side of the car. Carefully aligned using my phone as a measurement point to the bonnet (good enough for me - I can't be bothered to measure it properly!) Now sorted 😁

Anyone with a Rapid, Scala, Octavia or Superb have more chance of people thinking it is a Taxi / Private Hire / UBER car and getting in, especially in town / city centres.