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All, thanks for your time. Problem solved, well at least found, small split underneath in the short rubber pipe immediately after the turbo. You were right all along about checking for leaks, it was the "throttle" position that was bugging me, but that's really just for the EGR process. Last time I did serious commercial car spannering we were really chuffed to have central door locking! Things have moved on.

Yesterday Sunny South Ayrshire.

That kit did contain the wheel cylinders: Pagid Brake Shoe Kit | Euro Car Parts 3.5 years is possibly enough time for something to seize up inside. Take the cover off that allows you to see the equaliser bar behind the handbrake lever, and see if it skews sideways when the handbrake is applied. That usually suggest a seized pivot inside one drum.

Higher levels of ethanol actually make the fuel more knock resistant, not less. This is why cars like the koenigsegg CCR make more power on bio than on mineral based fuels. There's a MASSIVE amount of nonsense talked about fuels.

The absolute best advice I can give you is get them to take it back and get your money back. Call the dealer tomorrow. Don't delay. It's virtually certain to be leaking at the interface between the aluminium and plastic. See Yeti_Panoramic_Roof_Leak.pdf (yetiownersclub.co.uk) . Seriously, don't entertain trying to fix it. It will fail again. Get your money back.

I've found a comprehensive list of Skoda paint names and codes... but note that these are the European names and some are renamed by Skoda UK for the UK market. Examples are Lava Blue becomes Petrol Blue, and Steel Grey becomes Meteor Grey. Skoda paint codes.pdf Chris

They take the £2.50 rather easily and divulge the keepers information without asking their permission.

Don't turn the ignition on while the airbag is disconnected.

Colourful sunset this evening (and a bright moon)............

Here. https://www.gov.uk/request-information-from-dvla

Reminds me, I need to check our Fabia over in the next month or two in this area. It's been a while. I think @Bertie90 you can test the handbrake function yourself fairly easily. Apply handbrake to normal position, chock front wheels and put in gear; Jack up both sides of the rear until the rear wheels are off the ground, then see if you can turn either wheel by hand. If that shows one side not getting braked as much as the other and the equaliser bar is also pulling to one side it would be fair to think that there is a real problem. A stretched cable on one side could also cause these type of symptoms, I guess.

Haha, I do that as well. The switches for the rears certainly fall to hand by default. The whole switch set needed shoved back a bit.

I find the electric window switches poorly placed. Too often I end up winding the back window down when I want to wind the driver window down. They're too close together and the back one is in a more accessible place.

You can make the update while driving or with engine running.

I think it is pointing to an air leak in the air pressure pipes between the turbo/ intercooler & inlet manifold. Look for any sign of black sprayed oil residue on any adjacent surface which will be ejected from any split or leak. Also check the throttle valve on the inlet manifold. They get covered in black sticky EGR crud & start to jam up, although your fault codes don't really support this. If you remove it to clean, remove the plastic cover on the side as well. It covers the electronics & drive motor. I have found some to be completely full of black conductive engine oil in the past which of course shorts out the electronics. Give all the electronics a good clean with something like brake cleaner including the electric motor.

Just shown up in OBDeleven apps so have turned it on to selectable and now it shows up on my settings screen

Also @vonweiser Nta has the right general idea. My point about modern VAG gauges is that, by design, they don't show a "true reading" unless the engine is still cold or is very hot. A couple of my mates' girlfriends ran BL cars with "temperature gauges" back in the early 1980s, and the usual conversation after working on them was "$mate, where does the temperature gauge on your GF's car usually read when it's up to hot?", and the answer could be anything from "just outside cold" to "just short of the red".

I ordered a 1.5tsi SE estate in mid-July and was given an ambitious mid-November delivery date needless to say this wasn’t met. However, just this morning had a email from the dealer to say the car has just left the line and is sat awaiting transport to the port for shipping. It should be available to pick up from the dealer in January, so all in all not to long a wait…

Slightly left field idea, well for this time in the morning, but you could just neutralise the rattle by squirting some glue in these, give it a gentle shake to get the coin to slide around and meet the glue, and then it should stick to the “floor” somewhere. Look on the positive side, it will up the value of the car! 👍

front/rear 340/310 both vented for 272/280ps 4x4 310/300 front vented for all rest replaced to Otto Zimmermann -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/407627-rear-disc-brake-wear/?do=findComment&comment=5306861

It very much depends on your model as to which brakes you need. I might be wrong but on the 220/280hp the rears are vented and 310mm , if yours is not vented then it should be 300mm. I’m buying these personally very soon, but getting my local dealer to install them for £150, expensive I know but independent was around £5 cheaper https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/brembo-brake-disc-10444224A https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/brembo-brake-pad-10144208A

Car coming towards me trying to go past parked cars on his left and I thought he was coming for me, so braked and stopped. Verbal exchange with me questioning why he needed so much room on his left and him replying that "the best I can do for myself is to **** off". Slightly less friendly reply from me but still o.k., pushed / flipped his mirror in to get past his car and he reached out and tore my mirror off the brake master cylinder bracket. He drove off and I had to look for the car in the area. Found the car later and knocked on the door to speak to him. He said I had broken off his mirror..... I looked at it and it looked pretty o.k. to me. I said to him I will take some pictures and he offered that he would knock me clean out if I did. Took some pictures and reported to police. I do not think he lives at the address where I found him and the car. Can I get his details from the DVLA or elsewhere? Or will the police send them to me?

Wow you do go back a bit. 😄 C'mon, it was a split in a pipe, cars are ancient technology basically. You'd be sent to make the tea, only then there's the worry of the hot kettle and water. 😄 Don't worry I wouldn't have found it until my wife pointed it out to me, "is this it" - "no, that's to make it easier to fit". What's MS Teams then . . . All's well that ends well, tomorrow is . . . usually another and different problem, but it's only a car, nothing important. 🙂

Tumbleweed will eventually blow through a thread and some will be happy. @kodiaqsportline if you do not like posts maybe do not read those ones, scan them and move on and there is an ignore button.

My bad... You are right, was looking at the motorcycle guide where 4.1.4c isn't listed! 🤦‍♂️ It does appear to suggest that rule is specifically for halogen units which leaves it a bit of a grey area for LED in HID, but the literal interpretation of the rule itself should fail the conversion.

Let's solve 🙏 the 2 years problem 😒 first and then we will see.

The ship was to the left of the muffin.

In my first post I listed EBC DPX2173 rear brake pads as being suitable for the 300mm rear brake discs on the Superb MK3 2.0TDI. However, I've had an email from EBC who say that the 300mm rear brake discs on the Superb MK3 2.0TDI need EBC DPX2153 rear brake pads. EBC DPX2153 rear brake pads for Superb MK3 300mm rear brake discs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291600255351?epid=249512428&hash=item43e4bac977:g:1xMAAOSw49xhoHrk The EBC DPX2173 rear brake pads are only for the ventilated 310mm rear brake discs.

I checked the receipt and it was Pagid rather than Eicher for the Fabia. The Brembo set was the same price. I changed my wife's front discs and pads this year on a Nissan Note and used Eicher. Eicher are no worse than OEM so far. The Brembo set was only £30 more. For the Note Brembo prices are only midfield.

You can turn the pipe from the egr that goes into these to stop this happening again Here is a well explained How To from the forum

Sorry, not Skoda specific (again) however in later generations I often find materials frequently feel cheaper in pursuit of weight reduction. My father in law's 10 year old Ford C-Max feels like a luxury motor alongside my wife's 5 year old C-Max, but I know which is lighter (and gives better MPG). That's progress.

Had my Artic Silver Enyaq delivered just over a fortnite ago. It was ordered 22/06/2021. At the moment I have not done many miles, waiting for new glasses! This is my fourth Skoda , 2 x Superb and a Karoq. The specs are: IV60, Ecosuite, Family plus, Climate plus, Assisted Drive plus, Transport package, Heat pump, Parking basic, Convenience plus, Comfort seat plus, Drive sport plus, Infotainment plus and Panoramic sunroof. I have had a pod point installed at the house (very straight forward). Looking forward to getting some driving done soon.

Well, as someone who has autolocking deactivated, I certainly won't worry about those scenarios.

Ignore this, I missed that it was a TDI, since a TDI doesn't have a proper throttle then I'm not surprised that the reading shows it's open when the engine's running, it only closes when you switch the engine off. So ignore that reading, it's a red herring and start looking for air leaks.

So high efficiency, not much waste heat at idle etc. Temperatures are probably as expected at this time of year, unless you're in the southern hemisphere. If the engine thermostat is the factory-fitted original, it may be worth considering replacement but I'm not sure it would make any difference. You might be able to clarify what's going on with the coolant temperature using VCDS, or similar to get a number direct from the engine ECU, before the instrument cluster 'sanitises' it.

Seems a few of us have just had similar emails from our dealers. I've just had an email to say my car has changed to STATUS30 which means its built and is in transit to the port and to expect it early in the new year. Good news as I was previously told to plan for it not being here by Feb when my lease car goes back.

I always fit them, back and front, the car stays cleaner and I don't put up such a wall of spray for other drivers. To be honest they should be fitted as standard.

Sorry no idea of cost but I would be interested to know the results, if it is wheel bearing and if it's front or back or only one side or at one wheel, as my wife's car is the same age, but with 40+k-miles. If you are taking it to a main Dealership I'm sure they won't take a chance and recommend changing the wheel bearing, or whatever else it might be, even if in reality the bearing might (obviously I've no real idea about this in your case) not need replacing straight away and have more serviceable life in it and just noisy and they might find other work that needs doing, if it does then it does but again the work might not need doing straight away and you could get more good serviceable life out of the part or component. Again obviously I can't know if this is the case on your car. I had this with a Czechoslovakia made Skoda back in the mid-80s but the Skoda Dealerships then weren't part of VW and were much smaller and much friendly and I was advised that the wheel bearing, on that car back then, though noisy could run for years like it and be fine, as it turned out it got noisier and had to be changed but it was still fine in its actual operation. Let us know how you get on, good luck.

06L115562B I think, which superseded 06L115562 at some point Oil Filter 1.8TSI, 2.0TSI Škoda 06L115562B (skoda-parts.com)

I had exactly the same issue with Brembo discs and pads combo. These were for the FS111 brakes on my HTP. Changed to Pagid discs and pads and no problems since. Avoid cheap makes such as Eicher as was fitted to mine prior to the Brembo's as they squealed and the pads were loose in the calipers.

Many thanks, sorted. Partner refused to believe that isolation button was the issue. But works as designed.

I'm curious as to why you didn't reject the car immediately when you noticed the carpet was wet the day after you got it?

Or take the plunge and change to an Android head unit like I have just done

Take the block out, turn upside down & shake?

This is such a crazy thread. Skoda is causing a lot of headaches? That's because the situation the world currently finds itself in is causing Skoda ( and every other manufacturer ) lots of headaches. When someone asks Skoda " when will my car be delivered " and Skoda replies " I don't know ", then people come on here and complain. If Skoda give a date and then miss that date, people come on here and complain. They're trying to build cars but don't have enough components, and people come on here to complain. This must be an absolute nightmare for the planning depts at ever manufacturer who use the 'just-in-time' method of production. On top of that, by allowing you to customise a car with various options ) that has to make the problem even worse. Give them a break, I'm sure they're trying their very best. If people still aren't happy then simply cancel your order and buy a car from another manufacturer, preferably one who's only option is what colour of paint would you like.

Many modern cars don't come with a spare wheel for various reasons. According to the AA, over 80% of drivers do not know how, or do not want to change a wheel themselves - so car manufacturers have removed them and included sealant, and provided drivers with breakdown cover on new cars instead. Gives more boot space and reduces weight which improves the economy figures. If there's no spare wheel, there's no need for a jack or wheelbrace to be supplied with the car. And in theory self seal tyres mean no need for compressor and sealant, but in practice it's not always up to the job. So most people opt to buy their own compressor and sealant for about £15.

@Woodside99 board search -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/search/?q=rattles orchestra&type=forums_topic&nodes=299

7L6941329B is the control module to control the motors and the lights - but not the actual motor itself.