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Absolute love it 😍 IMG_9464.MOV

New wheels and tyres on the car today.

Such a clear sky here last night (taken with my phone on night mode) Stunning picture

Was just going to say the same - been there done that! I'd be getting the runners changed before it all gets too late and the whole mechanism gets knarled up.

It's impossible for that part to just fall out which suggests the plastic runner has broken so I'm afraid you're going to need to take it all apart to fix it properly otherwise it will probably jam and break your regulator.

Lovely walk in the sunshine earlier ( clouded over now😕)

https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2004-225/6/609-609020/

@Kobayashi since you’re in the north west I have a fully working fuel pump you’re more than welcome to have, no harm in swapping it and seeing if it makes any difference before parting with money to buy a new one.

So, it finally happened. I still can't believe it. RS 2.0 TSI Hatch Mamba/Hyper Green Ordered first week of March Forced colour change for MY22 in the meantime (was meant to be Meteor Grey) Produced late July, from then waiting incomplete Finished Jan 3 In Poland Jan 13 Collected today, Jan 27 It was a long wait (10+ months!), but just a short drive makes me think it was more than worth it. It's going to be with me for the next 3 years for sure. Apparently, it also matches my wife! 😂 Keeping fingers crossed for all your orders to get fulfilled soon!

Another goldfinch from summer

Hi all, just a response to the boot rattle issue, mine only started within the last month or so proper annoying!, went through everything including driving with an empty boot, still there, took the advice of looking at the boot stops and after adjusting both slightly rattle has disappeared! , will let you know how it progresses.

There was no hint of a sunset when I arrived (@ Rufford Park) and in the space of a few moments it looked like the sky was on fire!

I replaced my units. Before removing the old ones I drove an appropriate distance (about 2m) from my Grampa's garage door, turned the headlights on, and marked the door with chalk where the beam met. Once complete the job, the lights went back on and we're adjusted to meet the chalk markings. Haven't had a passing car flash me for the lights yet so they must be okay. Getting them checked before the MOT just to be sure though.

(deleted as link didn't work, I was wrong about it) But agree fully with buying good OEM quality parts for things like this, buying cheap can be very expensive in the long, medium and even short run.

My 16th June 2021 order has finally arrived at dealer and scheduled for collection next Thursday.

Don’t worry, Skoda have righted their wrongs and it’s gone back to order accepted

Turbo's are mostly oil lubricated and cooled, using the engine oil.

OK, heard back from Satnav Systems - having told them my vin no. and specific model - they aid they can repair the unit to full functionality for £599 +VAT (with 12 month warranty), including map update with speed cameras. If it can't be repaired - they will exchange it for a genuine OEM Skoda unit for £1,199 +VAT (with 24 month warranty) - pretty much what Skoda quoted. They also offer lower cost alternative replacement units. At the moment my unit works as it should (except for not being to type any postcode that contains a 'P' - slightly annoying when we live in an 'HP' postcode), but we can work around this for now - if it gets any worse, I may get in touch with Satnav Systems again.

and on checking Twitter, Maz has new upgrades to report.

As above, headlights need to be on. Normal operation is headlight washers operate on first wash of windscreen and every 10th wash after.

@RT_SGP - VCDS instructions below:- Enable Direct TPMS from Gateway Controller 19 – CAN Gateway Security Access - enter 20103 Click “Installation List” Activate “65 - Tire Pressure” Click “Save Coding” Adaptations Go to: Tire Pressure Monitoring 1 Change from "Not Coded" to "Coded" Click “Do It!” Disable Indirect TPMS Controller 17 – Instruments Coding Select Long Coding Helper Byte 4, Bit 0 Deactivate (Untick) “Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS), Yes” Byte 3, Bit 7 Activate (Tick) “Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS),Yes)” Byte 11, Bit 2 Activate (Tick) “Tire pressure monitoring: BAP distance,Yes” Modify ABS coding Controller 03 – ABS Coding Select Long Coding Helper Byte 27:- Bit 4 – Dectivate/Untick Bit 5 – Dectivate/Untick Bit 6 – Dectivate/Untick X111XXX -> X000XXXX Byte 28:- Bit 7 – Dectivate/Untick 1XXXXXXX -> 0XXXXXXX Modify Information Electrics Controller 5F – Information Electronik Security Access - enter 20103 Adaptations Go to: Car_function_list_BAP_Gen2-tire_pressure_system_0x07_msg_bus Change from "Suspension Data bus" to "Extended data bus" Click “Do It!”

Here is the ETSC statement on the override capability: https://etsc.eu/wp-content/uploads/2017-09-isa-briefing_final.pdf

@TCL - this great how-to remove the front door card video was created by @digifish https://youtu.be/xVOrDNmqswk below is a pic from the workshop manual of the tweeter grille - #5 tis not very clear, nor detailed.

I was wondering the same thing a couple months back when I was buying new wheels. I couldn't find any pictures for reference which made it hard. I ended up with 18x8 et40. I've attached pictures so people can see how they fit. 40 offset is still easily inside the arch. You could even go a little lower and get away with it. I think et35 would be perfect.

And the fuel that is drawn from the bottom of a full tank is exactly the same as the last drops of fuel drawn from a tank when you run out of fuel the pick up pipe does not move and the water does not float above the fuel.

So I came back home with the superb tonight No issues at all in parking the car, I could easily get at 5cm from the wall.. I'll just buy a neoprene to be sure. Thanks all for the answers and the pictures!

I have the exact same injector with same part Number. They cost 900 pounds here for the new ones

Rang every garage around. Most have new stock coming in next few weeks. I had the pick of maybe 20. Most style but I wanted sportline. Got a steal gray with 20in and vir cockpit both extras in Ireland. Waiting on price for runner and towbar and few other bits. But had choice of black red etc. Worth calling around the garages lads. I only started looking 3 days ago.

Issues with "front randomly slam the brakes on hard" seem to be quite common. Main stealers who can actually do anything about it aren't.

Some condensation is totally normal, headlights are not sealed to be vacuum tight, air gets in and condensation happens. It should clear up when they warm up though.

No news does seem to be good news at the moment, I did get an update in the end: no changes to the provisional build week 7. At least that's progress from before Also got my home charging point installation scheduled for next month as I'm getting an iV, so it's on time before the government grant ends in March.

You may have a common rail pump or fuel pressure regulation issue. It's not possible for you to safely test this yourself without the proper equipment, you need to find an indie VW specialist near you.

Hi Bertie90. Yes I got the right wiring loom and window switch, gave Skoda Parts Direct my reg etc. I am going to Pete as soon as I get paid. Thanks again

I don’t think that anything like this would be covered by the repair and maintenance legislation. It’s not a serviceable item and in general it stays attached, they won’t exactly put the door card on Velcro and the mirror on wing nuts just to speed up the possibility that it may need to come off some time in its life? something like not putting filters in awful places or special tools to change would be covered I’d assume.

These threads seems to imply changing seals doesn't work, problem lies in the VAQ unit or diff itself due to quality issues, requiring a new VAQ or diff, not sure which. https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/gli-6mt-with-transmission-oil-leak.9346459/ https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/vaq-or-transmission-leak.348824/ Edit: Sorry, just noticed you've already posted those links in your initial post.... Where in the UK are you?

The adjuster wedges go at the back and you have to get the wedges the right way around. One side has a dimple and the other side has a protrusion. The smooth dimple side goes against the shoe. If you get it the wrong way around they will jam and fail to work. This was mine when I fitted a full pre-assembled brake overhaul kit...

Well I don't quite agree. Replacing the unreliable Ecotricity chargers is a quick win, providing the same level of charging facility but more reliably can be done rapidly - over 100 service areas done in 6 months is good going. To build hubs needs planning permissions, new grid connections, agreement of the land owner and so on - all of which take time. I think we are seeing the ramp up in chargers now just with the sheer number of hubs Gridserve intend to build. I'm sure getting the chargers at the two locations you need working is better than you waiting 12 months for a hub to be built there? https://www.gridserve.com/2021/12/09/biggest-motorway-ev-charging-upgrade-in-uk-history-underway-with-11-new-ultra-high-power-electric-hubs-in-construction-plus-world-first-electric-forecourt-at-gatwick-airport/ As an aside on the Welcome Break pause in the roll-out, I think this was caused by the Competition and Markets Authority's look at UK charging at MSAs. Gridserve has given an assurance it will not enforce and exclusivity deal it has to avoid an full on investigation. rumour has it the Welcome Break will use this to install it's own branded chargers IN ADDITION to anything Gridserve do. Instavolt are also moving onto MSAs through it's tie up with Costa. Its coming and I think by the end of this year things will be much improved.

Gridserve have had a lot of stick when the upgraded charger roll-out stalled in September. There seems to have been an issue with Welcome Break MSAs giving permission for the upgrade. This seems to have been resolved now and the upgrades are going well. The hubs they are sintalling will be a boon, but these needs to be everywhere. With the sales of EVs on the increase, queueing at chargers is becoming a real issue so multiple chargers on motorways and trunk routes are needed. MFG EV Power seem to have the right idea, not messing about installing one or two chargers - they build a minimum 6 chargers at each new site. Gridserve still have some issues with their chargers that all need to be aware of:- First, there are two DC charge heads on each unit that should allow two cars to charge simultaneously, but they don't. The ABB chargers need a software update to implement this, but all signage indicate its possible. What happens now is, if I'm charging and someone else starts a charge on the other DC head, it stops my charge! Second, the chargers state 120kW charger but this is only true for 800V cars (e.g Taycan, EV6). Most cars are 400V and will only get 60kW max. This is further compounded by the fact the upgraded chargers are using the grid connection of the old charger it replaced, which does not always provide the power needed for 60kW - let alone 120kW! Gridserve have copped flak for this but until they install a new hub at the MSA I doubt this will change. Having said this is a problem with Gridserve chargers they are not the only ones with this issue. The MFG 175kW chargers are the same, only 175kW for 800V cars and 90kW for 400V cars - there is a small sticker on the charger that explains this though. Things are improving, but there is a long way to go before non-Tesla chargers match the Tesla Supercharger experience.

Is the dealer where you have had servicing the same dealership that sold you the car?

likely then it will already b parameterized, so yes, no need for the VCP/ODIS steps. the only downside with the pre-loaded dataset is that tire sizes pre-loaded may not necessarily match ur car tire size. so select a tire set that matches the tire pressures u want to use. that's wat really matters - the target pressure readings for comfort, standard & fully loaded. the tire size description is not important for the TPMS function.

Servicing for these units (either front VAQ or rear Haldex) is not listed in the main schedules, its under the ambiguous title of "Country-specific additional work dependent on time & mileage".....& is stated as simply "Every three years".. You can remove the VAQ unit, get the correct driveshafts & code out the module..& then remove the existing open diff in the gearbox & fit a proper LSD (wavetrak)....& save weight, servicing & have more predictable handling... Loads on info in this thread on such a conversion Swapping a Wavetrac LSD into a VAQ Equipped car | GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum

Surely, part of the certificate's usefulness is the mileage readout, showing not just the current value, but how it has been driven over the vehicle timeline - has it done 40k in the first year for example as a hire car, then settled down to 8k a year afterwards Hopefully people will find it useful and Skoda can build in extra functionality as well, drawing information from the digital service schedules too

We are going off tangent here the OP just wants some advice on why his twincharger is missfiring , it has absolutely nothing to do with oil it’s to do with how a combustion engine works it can’t get anymore simple it’s either spark plugs are on the way out or not gapped correctly coil packs or coil pack wiring is on the way out fuel pump & or injectors & or fuel filter is on the way out fuel has absolutely no sway on this issue these cars can and do run on lower octane fuel , different countries I.e turkey & Greece don’t even have 95 octane and still run

Why would you want to do that? - Because a MK1 variofloor can be had for peanuts and it sounds like the OP already has a MK2 set, of course you can fit them in with a little bit of DIY, they are made of wood.

The display is just an LCD matrix, its neither miles or kms nor English, French or Chinese, it illuminates the pixels that it is told to by the instrument cluster controller. LHD/RHD and miles/kms etc are all coding settings for the instrument cluster, changing the LCD display will not change the coding or the information displayed. Editted, I am having my doubts about the above, I was speaking as if it were a Maxidot display but looking at the ghost image in the photograph I am not so sure now.

Check carbon brushes and integrity of the slip rings/armature.

How do I enable the remote closing of the automatic tailgate? (Superb / Octavia Combi with electric tailgate) go to 6D - Trunk Elect and click on “Security Access -16” Enter the security code 12345 ?Go to “Adaptation - 10” (4)-Activation using rear lid remote unlocking switch-Tap function for closing Enter the New Value as Activate Click DO It! (4)-Activation using rear lid opening button in remote key-Tap function for closing Enter the New Value as Activate Click DO It! Note there are two options: “Touch function for closing" requires you to hold in the button until the door is closed. If you release the button the door motion will stop. "Tap function for closing" just needs a single push on the button to close the door. Thanks to wokwon for the coding