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It is simple really and some people should not yet get an EV and especially if they might need to do towing over longer distances. There are not enough charge points suitable for taking in a longer vehicle with something long being towed.

It was a bit wet and wild earlier, but happily the sky cleared

IMO the 4hr cheap slot will effectively disappear over the next 18 months, maybe sooner. Domestic prices will soon be 30+ pence/kwh starting April and will march continually upward at well above inflation if gov insist on Net zero policy. Free or cheap public charging will also disappear. Its about time the UK recognise the damage heavier cars do to infrastructure, the environment and peoples health. A weight based tax is already used in the Netherlands I believe

Classical music for people who don't like classical music. Guff.

A few more from earlier (including a lovely pair of tits!)..................

Also picked up an exhaust for when I stick the engine in, was a prototype from direnza and only used for a few hundred miles, was too quiet for its previous owner. Which is good for me as I don’t want stupid loud

With engine oil (and filter) timely regular changes are important, as well as air filter and even perhaps fuel (I found clean 🤣 city diesel like V-Power left a cloud of silver grey instead of the usual black dense ****), as with computers GIGO for cars SISO. As there are correct oils there's also quality of oils but that's a whole new argument, and regular timely changes are still required. Most, quite rightly, usually drive diesels differently to petrols, using (much) lower revs, and more torque, which can add to the clogging up effect so I'd also look at cleaning stuff after the air intake like MAF and throttle body as this could make noticeable improvements generally and are often not done previously. Once you get used to driving the car as a diesel rather than petrol, with a serviced and clean engine, you will see very good real life mpg figures - disregarding any dash figures on any car, but perhaps particularly a VW product. 🤣

Sunday afternoon update, had a go at the carpet today...not perfect. There's some pink and yellow stains that aren't coming out but I'm happy with the results, it's nice to know they are at least clean.

My view is that increased power density will lead to lighter and more efficient cars. If the batteries are physically smaller, smaller cars become practical. I think 300-400 miles of range is plenty and making the car's smaller, lighter and so more efficient will be the way things go. If they can get 5 miles/kWh efficiency then 50-80 kWh batteries are all that's needed.

Either 3 phase at home or work (22 kWh) or DC. In reality not many people will need to add more than you can charge in the 4 - 5hrs cheap rate for private mileage, if you do then you will need to suck it up and charge the extra at your normal tariff rate. 28 kWh (4 hours X 7 kWh) will give you at least 85 miles even in winter (driven normally, more if you drive economically)

I think that applies more to a full electric vehicle than a phev. 80% of my battery would give very little driving, it doesn't stay at 100% for long😐

Toyota have recently said that Land Cruiser orders in Japan can be subject to a 4 YEAR wait https://www.cartoq.com/toyota-confirms-4-year-waiting-period-for-land-cruiser-suv/

JVC, wiv Alpine amps and big bassy bins in the boot innit bruv. 🤣😂 Or possibly something a little more integrated when playing Pachelbel's Canon.

Ok, right , the'34F7' sticker is in the boot, its dated 2014, and I also have all those service items done on the date/mileage they need to be done by Skoda , last full service at 48thousand miles was done last year with a new timing chain and tensioner, not done by Skoda , private garage, but it's been done , So no more worries and buyers remorse for me then, and it's seems I have a really nice car .

300 ''break''. It has broken 300 times? Better put it back to standard then 😛

It's here! Delivered this morning, Estate 1.5 TSI SE in brilliant silver. First impressions are positive - it looks great, and I love the tone of silver. Struggling with Android Auto already but I'll post about that on another thread. Ordered 01/10/21 so 4 months and a few days, which is less than the 6 months I was originally quoted. Best of luck to everyone still waiting.

Saturday afternoon update, I've clean the seats. The driver's being the worst now looks like something you'd consider sitting on.

Hi guys, It has been a while since I've posted on here since I haven't had a Skoda for years. Last week I bought a yellow mk1 VRS hatchback as a project, I'll post regular updates as I go over all the little jobs that need attention.

Welcome to my thread about all the progress I have made and will be making in turning my Skoda into the car i want it to be. It all started in 2019 when i was bored of driving a little 1.4 punto evo and started searching through auto trader for a new set of wheels. I came across my Skoda pretty quickly, it was reasonably priced, had good service history and only 20 miles away. A quick phone call to the owner solidified my interest in the car as i could tell i was speaking to an elderly gentlemen, and to me that was the car sold there and then. I arranged a viewing of the car the next day and my suspicions were correct, he was an elderly gentleman that had owner the car for the last 10 years, servicing regularly and not driving very hard - only used to tow the caravan a few times a year. It was mechanically sound, the interior was immaculate for the age however the exterior was in a condition i had never seen before, the clear lacquer had started cracking, leaving the paint looking like snake skin - as long as the car drove nicely that's all that mattered to me. Mum and I drove home very pleased, me probably more so than her, and called the owner that evening to negotiate a price. I managed to get it for £1200 which was £300 off asking, a bargain in my eyes, we went back the next day to get it and take it home. The first thing on my list of things to do was a service. New oil, coolant, spark plugs and air filter - admittedly at this point my knowledge on cars was fairly limited so the service wasn't very comprehensive. The ran well for the next 3 months before the next mod... Lowering springs - found online at a discounted price so i quickly sent the link to my nan and that was my Christmas present sorted. Fast forward a month and it was time to fit them. What a ******* of a job that was - the front shocks had clearly never been removed before, paired with my novice mechanic skills, this job took me two evenings to complete. I was pleased with how it looked after a 35mm drop. The next issue to tackle was a very oily engine bay, the rocker cover had clearly been leaking for a while along with the oil sump looking a bit greasy - after reading through this forum and watching some youtube videos i knew what i had to do. After re-doing the rocker cover gasket and oil sump sealant i was happy that the car wasn't leaking anymore. You can see in this photo i had stupidly replaced the standard airbox with cone filter, clearly a novice, after some deeper research into it i quickly swapped back to the standard airbox which still remains to this day. The car then stayed the same for the next year or so apart form replacing some of the perished pipework and getting some new floor mats. Fast forward to 2021, my knowledge had grown massively and i was well aware of all the issues that you would get with a 16 year old, 130,000 mile car, so i set out a plan to completely refresh it. I wanted to totally re-do the underside of the car including all new arms, bushings, struts, bearings, brake lines and hardware and make the engine run sweetly by doing the common SAI, n249 and n112 delete. I started collecting all the necessary bits to do what i wanted, once i had enough for the engine work i got started on that. I got it done with the help of Bowders' tutorial and the diagrams included in about a week of evenings. The engine certainly sounded healthier, it didn't have that horrible noise coming from the SAI pump on start up anymore and sounded a bit fruitier when driving spiritedly. The amount of pipework removed was incredible, the whole process was very beneficial for me in understanding how the engine worked and where things might go wrong. Now onto the underside! I started on the front, this took a while. Buying new hardware was the best decision i made, i had to chop some seized bolts so having nice shiny new ones to put back in was very satisfying. Surprisingly, bilstein shocks weren't too expensive considering the reputation they have, the old shocks were totally shagged so it was about time they were replaced - at present i am very pleased with the ride, hard enough but not too hard as this is my daily. Clearly i didn't think about how to tackle the front in the most efficient way, looking back i should've just removed the subframe with all arms and suspension attached and do the work out of the car, but i didn't, i wanted a challenge... And now onto the rear. I had some help for this part which was nice. My unsuspecting friend joined me in resembling the rear beam and inserting it back into the car, i think this would've been 10x harder on my own. Along with new suspension and bushings i had new bearings, making the rear end feel so much better! To conclude, I have done; the engine bay deletes, new front end, new rear end, some minor cosmetic work and new wheels and tyres. The Skoda now looks like this... More to follow...

Not really into classical music myself either - a good friends father used to sneak out of the house into the mates and my car and reset all the radio presets to Lyric FM !! This put me off it. Ive decided to ignore that meme sent to me as the girls have found out a juicy bit of gossip and this has no doubt diverted their attention for now.😄

Those are exactly the same as I've bought to repair my broken door wiring.

thats not muddy @olduns thats a canal!

Not all torque+angle bolts are stretch bolts - it's a good way to guarantee a robust joint on bolts/nuts that may not be in perfect condition, and where rust/debris/oil/grease would affect the tension you get from a specified torque setting. Bolts which will get axial loads in service are never going to be stretch bolts as they would be extremely likely to fail under that kind of load. Stretch bolts tend to be used in situations where high clamping force is needed, and the space isn't there for a larger bolt to do the job. When I did the rear dampers on my car, I couldn't undo the nut that holds the top mount onto the stanchion, and the internal hex had stripped. Since I was scrapping it anyway, I got out the angle grinder and ground some flats on the stanchion so I could clamp it in the bench vice to open it up.

I paid £26,170 OTR ordered 19/1/18, delivered 26/4/18. Price included extras (now standard) free cost upgrade for a metallic colour, 3 years servicing and 5 yr warranty. So £27,785 OTR (plus real spare wheel) like-for-like + metallic colour + DSG not so shabby, especially if I can get warranty thrown in and maybe servicing. The thing that may swing it is the current high trade in prices.....in Phoenix Orange! I love Business Grey, silver in some lighting conditions, bluey grey in others. But as its not available now, its time for a little colour! Grey and monochrome has been done to death imo. I would hate a Tesla dashboard. Its a car not a video game. Im sticking with the Karoq as it has buttons and dials, and the best car I have ever owned. Again, imo.

Derbyshirebod. It is entirely possible that my relay did have that set up and those instructions, I am someone who only RTFM's when I have exhausted all other avenues!!!!!!!!!! Molex make gycerine filled Scotchlok type connectors for outside Telecoms work, they are far superior. I bet Lee has thousands like I do!

Been a while lads eh? Not the biggest of updates, will have a mega one next weekend hopefully but fitted my wiper delete that ive waited 8 months for. Cant really notice any cosmetic benefit at the mo as the car is F I L T H Y.. waiting for new seals from Skoda Parts before i take a jet wash to it. Next weekend providing the weathers good will see me and a mate doing the SAI, N249 and N112 deletes aswell as fitting my creation motorsports oversized TIP, a Ramair induction kit with heat sheild, finally fitting my topmpunts and giving the old girl an oil change. Busy weekend ahead, hoping that reading Bowders' delete guide about 7 times will benefit the process 😂😂 Ciao 🤙🏻

On a traditional sensor, yes. On a wideband sensor, no. I posted the workshop manual info before, but here it is again, I think somewhere previously it mentioned a pre-requisite of the engine being up to temperature, but my experience is that it gets to the quoted number and maintains it from with a minute approx. of cold start. :

Another day, another snowy Skippy pic. 👍

Wet, muddy, slippy eMTB ride...

I have owned a 2019 SEAT Mii from new, but after around 6 months began to notice issues with the rear brakes sticking. This was especially noticeable if the car was driven in wet weather and on occasion was so bad the car would drag it's rear wheels before the brakes released with a loud bang. I did try to reverse before setting off, but this didn't release the brakes either. I read a variety of posts, both here and on the VW Up! forum and mentioned it to 2 separate servicing main dealers. The main dealer who conducted the first service told me they could not replicate the fault and the last time it was in (for it's second service) I was told this is a 'characteristic of the car' and I would need to have the rear brakes 'maintained' and / or replaced (before it had covered 20000 miles / was 2 years old!!). A local mechanic stripped down, cleaned up and lubricated the brake mechanism on two occasions, but the problem recurred within a few weeks. A good friend (who works for a main dealer) told me he'd come across the problem many times and recommended I had none OEM rear brake shoes fitted. These were fitted several weeks ago and despite lots of heavy rain there has been no recurrence. One last thing - the Citigo / Up! / Mii is an astonishingly competent vehicle, which I thoroughly enjoy driving

Yes, but the clutch connects the engine to the gearbox, which we know rattles in neutral because shafts are moving. The assumption that it is the clutch is flawed logic.

Check your PMs

I've just put the dog bone mount back in but took up some more slack in the front bolt and it seems to have worked the forward and backwards clunking has gone 🤞🏻 I guess only time will tell now 😂. Thanks guys for all your help and suggestions. Going forward I'm still going to change out the inner tie rods, they're just too loose for my liking anyway plus I have new ones at hand.

I know that Briskoda membership is just a small sample of Skoda owners, and I don't follow every thread for every model, but I don't remember any reported diesel cambelt failure since I joined in 2014. Can't remember a report for a petrol either so it seems it is not that common, other than @xman's diesel street encounter that is. Unlike say.... water pump failures which are a dime a dozen. Then again the common advice regarding diesel water pump failures is to get the timing belt on the same side of the engine changed at the same time to reduce labour costs? Wonder if the service history for the OP's car has the water pump changed?

Ok, some photos of the back Remove back casing, then pcb held on by small plastic clips , a gentle push with something small should make them clear the mounting holes, the pcb then just eases out. There are then the contactors, one easily removes, the large one which moves has a plunger underneath, didn't remove that, but retracting the plunger should enable its removal, then you should have access to the spindle etc. Although I suppose a spray with wd or similar might free up your problem. Hope this helps

Great effort mate, makes me happy seeing another MK1 being cared for and improved upon!

Ha Ha, Extreme!! I will be wanting one set of tyres for the whole year though. Just someting that might give me a fighting chance of getting off the odd bit of wet grass occasionally (e.g. coastal car parks) and something that might be a little better at not lighting up the front's so often when I pull away on an uphill junction in the cool and damp weather (in my 2WD DSG) + someting that is safe all year round of course. Not too worried about any serious type of snow capabilities - if it's like that I will not be driving!! Cheers, Paul

The RHS drain is under the scuttle panel. It's a smallish oblong hole. You can just about see it if you pull the scuttle up, even better if it's off. The LHS is essentially the same. Just to clarify, they are BELOW the oblong holes in the picture and go to the wing. The best thing to do is to removed the scuttle panels and clean out any rubbish that's in there. Also remove the inner wheel arch liners, as they will be full of debris too. The pour some water to make sure that it drains. I seem to be leak-free at the mo. It did take months of trying and testing 🙂

Combi update! Firstly I appreciate these photos are not the most exciting, just parked up in front of a load of bins... 😂 But the weather is awful today, and I only just managed to take these whilst dodging rain and wind. I will of course be taking some much better shots, but for the meantime I just wanted to take these as a way of updating the project. It's been back together and on the road for the past two weeks and apart from a few niggles like the Forge intercooler hose popping off its been faultless. The timing belt, water pump, and aux belt were all replaced last week along with new injector seals and cups as 3 of the 4 were sweating around the inlet manifold. A new coolant bottle has been fitted also to replace the very tired original one. I finally got round to fitting the Whiteline rear adjustable anti-roll bar after hearing so many people say what a difference it makes and I can now only agree with everyone else! I've currently only got it set on the softest setting as I wasn't sure what difference it would make, but it's completely tightened up the rear end and taken away any wayward handling. Before I fitted the front bumper and Forge intercooler I tackled a few jobs in and around the engine bay. SAI, N249, N112, and EVAP all now deleted and the PCV system simplified and now running through an oil catch tank. My next plan is to refresh all the suspension components with polybushes and source Audi TT lower arms, hubs etc to enhance the handling of this old barge further! It's booked in at Badger 5 next Friday for a session on the rollers and hopefully to take advantage of the stage 2 mods that are currently fitted, and to map out the deletes I've done. I'm really looking forward to getting out to as many meets, and shows as possible this year and once I've sourced a second set of wheels with some sticky rubber I will also be venturing out on track!

If you do use a crowfoot spanner remember you need to correct the torque setting to allow for the offset position of the torque wrench relative to centre of the nut. Maths is easy but Norbar also make a neat android app to do these calcs for you. Neatest solution is to use something like Laser 6496 Strut Nut Socket Set 5pc Which can be used with a standard torque wrench at factory setting

It's not necessary, the inner skin is stainless and will last the life of the car, all Fabias do this and it's nothing to worry about.

Pet peeve sorry, but 1/76 scale is 00 (1/76 ground scale with an underscale 16.5mm track gauge, HO is 1/87 with the correct scale 16.5mm track gauge.

just incase you was not sure what I meant earlier, and ideally before you take it anywhere, check the item below, I am confident thats your guilty part.

One can fire up the pre-conditioning program but not if the car has less than 40% charge in the battery, whether it is on charge or not and do that from inside the car or via the phone app. Not tried it but I presume the USB ports work when one is sitting in the car even if it shuts off every few minutes. I thought I was going to get heated seats as standard in the Riviera version put did not so bought one that works via the 100w cigarette lighter and I still have another 4 other USB ports for other devices. I tend to carry other batteries ie 30000 mW power bank, a NOCO ICE battery starter and I will probably buy another seat back and bottom warmer for the other front seat and something for the back seats. We have not had a very cold winter this year in the Midlands, usually is a sting in the tail in mid February when we most commonly get some snow. I rarely go below 40% battery as use that hundred miles of range between 40 and 90% ie not below when one can use pre-condition or above that where the strong brake regen recoup works and one can get the 4 mile plus per kWh which seems to get messed up if I charge to 100% and therefore do not get significant regen and my miles per kWh stays in the 3 miles per KWh or only crawls up to 4 when I get down to 75% battery or less and regen starts to become 10, 20% or even 30% of the total energy used figure. If I did park up with less than 40%, say 30%, then I would have to wait about 12 or 13 minutes until it reached 40% as the car should charge at 45 kWh between 30% and 40% ie 5.2 kWh which should take about 8 minutes to happen so a quick run in for a wee wee and a coffee and if one had to go back to the car one could if one kicks in preconditioning when it hits the magic 40%. I think 30% or even 25% would have been would fine to allow the conditioning to start rather than 40%. It is the 12v battery that worries me quite a lot.

Thanks, well that'll explain why I'm not noticing it much. I think I can count on one hand the number times I've been out when ambient temperature has been less than 5C first thing. I tend to travel mid mornings. But is says none of that in the user manual, @fr1nklyn how did you learn that info. I've got the EA288 self study pdf stored.

Nice easy group ride today.... Levitation practice for part of the ride..

@adrianu possible, requires soldering @emilio_Poland Octavia possible, Fabia not possible unless you exchange glove box unit All check your PMs

Swapped over my Garmin dashcam from the Porsche into the Karoq Instead of hardwiring/fuse piggyback that I'd done in earlier cars such as my old Arteon or the Tiguan, I decided to buy one of Garmin's OBD socket adaptors - benefit is that it has a built in battery saver function, takes 2 seconds to disconnect completely, and has configurable settings for the battery saver such as 10 minutes, 1 day or continuous power. It comes with 2 USB connections for a 2nd dashcam as well Popped the side panel off, routed the cable up through the dash innards, secured the USB connections to the inner dash with a sticky pad and ran the power cable under the headlining & A-pillar trim. Such an easy install, and the camera is obscured from my line of vision by the rear view mirror. I really don't need to see it whilst driving, and can connect wirelessly to it to download any clips, or automatically update speed camera locations, etc

Definitely a BUY BUY BUY!! It finishes of the VRS aesthetics really well especially when standing on the rear quarter. Looking at the chrome from the rear pipes, then look at the chrome down the side of the side steps, it finishes it off perfectly, like it’s meant to be. I specifically got it for my roof box and camping but yes, you wont regret it and they are quite discrete with the doors closed. Amazingly I actually got a £27 rebate from the Insurance too!!! 😂

Hi on my 2021 Superb you can only set this using the configuration Wizard. Under the menu button , select settings , this will open the system settings. Starting the configuration Wizard is the bottom of this list. Once the Wizard is open just select the time date option icon (on the left) and you can choose 24 hour clock here. - what a faff