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I made a friend...

Well, what a difference, replaced the fuel filter, immediately more crisp and responsive and now 'showing' 52mpg avg on a 50 mile run in comparison with around 41-43 mpg on previous similar runs. I can't see into it but, like the oil and the other 3 filters, it will have been minging! What's up with some folk? Along with the oil, all the above cost well below £100 over a month and 3 separate purchases, that money will clearly be recouped over the next 3-4 tankfuls-and it runs so much better, quieter and just nicer to drive. If this was a motorcycle yes it could've been double or treble the above but I just can't grasp why these essentials are ignored. Anyway, happy driver for now 🙂

I think this was around 1993 for my 2.8 V6 Auto Ghia which was followed by a metallic green estate then an ex Police 2.9 auto Granada Scorpio which was for towing trailers rather than carrying stuff like white water kayaks & bikes on the roof or inside. & Jimny Pickup 2009 @ Tong.

Is 14 weeks a quote, an wild estimate, or unrealistic sales patter. This German website shows current estimates for VW Group, and it is showing minimum 6 months for new Fabia, with some specs extra 2 months (8 months total). Also for UK need to add about 3 weeks for a ship from Essen so more like 7-9 months depending on spec. https://www.marnet-mobility.de/aktuelle-lieferzeiten.html If your salesman has one in 14 weeks, must have ordered a selection of colours for stock few weeks ago. I would get them to show you their pending stock list to confirm, otherwise it might be nearer October-December

Hello all! I have a 2012 Volkswagen Scirocco R 6 speed manual finished in Rising Blue that I will be turning into a 'track car' of sorts and will be documenting it on YouTube. The plan is as follows: Open intake, dogbone mount insert, anti lift kit (inc alloy control arms), front and rear anti roll bars, short shifter, side quick shifter, A/C delete, engine mounts, gearbox mount, solid shifter bushings, polybushes all around, discs and pads, brake lines, lowering springs, roll centre correction, lightweight 18 inch wheels, exhaust, body bracing, rear seat delete, lightweight pulley, clutch and solid flywheel, custom remap, bucket seats, LSD. The build is starting next Saturday (12/03/2022) but the build videos won't probably start going on YouTube until some time in April - I'll leave the link to my channel just in case anyone is interested - I'll be reviewing each modification on its own to see what's worth it and what isn't. Link - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_veTnUbAp4rwdl-5a6DoBA I'll leave some pictures of the car in stock form.

I didn’t buy a Superb for belting around twisting roads. It’s a comfortable quieter car than the VRS. Yes the L & K seats are wider and don’t squeeze you in like a an Octy VRS. It does however, fir it’s size, take bends surprisingly well in DCC sport mode. I wouldn’t like to do the same bends without DCC, even with Sportline seat bolsters it will be more of a handful.

Yes, you absolutely do not know what you’re talking about.

Maybe you still live in the world of instantly disposable cars, but the rest of us have moved on.

Good to see that sepulchrave has once again fixed an issue, and in only 7 words.

I couldn't go electric, mainly because of my job, but partly because I don't like them very much. Nothing against them as a mode of transport, they seem generally excellent at that task, but they don't light my fire. Maybe once I retire or the countries' infrastructure improves I'll be happy to own one, but at the moment it looks like petrol/diesel or possibly hybrid for me. Perhaps someone will produce a car that can guarantee me at least 300 miles range in the middle of a super cold winters night, with all the ancillaries running...and that I can afford....soon. Although I doubt it 😞

@AnnoyingPentiumAs you move through Mk2 & Mk3's you will find out that since Mk1's you still have door seals that trap H20 in the seals and doors unless they are opened allowing them to drain. Lets hope that after 3 generations and loads of face lifts Skoda have the All New 4th Generation that are going to retain less water within the passengers cabin. 'Simply clever' is not repeating the same issue in vehicles for decades.

Plenty seats but no space for stuff if occupied. Range with all seats occupied will be interesting to know when it is cold / snowy and the heating working and the windows not steaming, that will not be if in ECO. Best without the Michelin Primacy 4 tyres fitted.

Interesting moon this evening - the entire disc is visible.

You're special 😀 😀 😀

What I do with all of my cars is to have a full sized wheel and tyre in the boot that is exactly the same as the wheels / tyres on the car. Then when I need two new tyres I will buy one new tyre and use the spare as the second. I will then put the least worn tyre it the boot as the spare. When I next need two new tyres I will move the newer ( by date ) least worn tyre / wheel to the spare and change the older tyre on what was the spare wheel. So when I sold my last car at 13 years old and at 133,000 miles the spare tyre was only 5 years old. Thanks, AG Falco

Just came across this post. I'm the proud owner of this beast! 🙂

Simple answers required 1st based on actual facts:- 1/ Your BNM is a 70BHP car so probably does not have a variable vane turbo. 2/ You say your mate has an identical car, is that also a 70BHP or an 80BHP. If the same original power output, his may have been re-mapped by previous owners hence the perceived power difference. 3/ How long have you had the car, and have the issues only occurred since the re-map. Who remapped it and are they a reputable company, or was it an internet map. 4/ Buy a Bluetooth OBD2 dongle, put Torque on an Android phone and read real time boost pressure - you can also view voltage in real time - or log boost pressure in real time with VCDS. 5/ Is there any pattern to when it occurs - although sound like only happened once (today). 6/ What mileage was the low voltage logged compared to current mileage, if the car had a low voltage 5 years ago - due to no use for a while or similar - without anyone reading the codes and clearing them that code will remain. I have had batteries that only just start the car in winter which can give electronic module messages but never caused an issue with running - its not a Tesla. 7/ What actually happened - acceleration that just suddenly stopped with the car then running at a constant speed (i.e. limp mode where revs will be limited to about 2500rpm but generally accompanied by a warning light in the instrument cluster such as glow plug light flashing), or actually started to slow down (blocked fuel filter or even water in the filter as a possibility which may explain no codes). Unsure where you found "many people are facing the same issue with the pd 1.4" but this is nothing I am not aware of as a common issues, having run a high mileage BNM in a Mk1 for 56K miles.

Due to high number of requests let me make some short summary of units that can be installed in Octavia III cars. I have focused only on MIB2 / MIB2.5 units, to indicate differences between them. Simplified Bolero MY15 unit 5Q0035819 (without DAB) or 5Q0035820 (with DAB) Simplified Bolero MY16 unit 5Q0035819A (without DAB) or 5Q0035820A (with DAB) Simplified Bolero MY17 unit 5Q0035819B (without DAB) or 5Q0035820B (with DAB) Simplified Bolero MY18 unit 5Q0035819C (without DAB) or 5Q0035820C (with DAB) Bolero MY15 unit 5Q0035840 (without DAB) or 5Q0035842 (with DAB) Bolero MY16 unit 5Q0035840A (without DAB) or 5Q0035842A (with DAB) Bolero MY17 unit 5Q0035840B (without DAB) or 5Q0035842B (with DAB) Bolero MY18 unit 5Q0035840C (without DAB) or 5Q0035842C (with DAB) Bolero MY19 unit 565035840 (without DAB) or 565035842 (with DAB) Amundsen MY16 unit 5Q0035864A (without DAB) or 5Q0035874A (with DAB) Amundsen MY17 unit 5Q0035864B (without DAB) or 5Q0035874B (with DAB) Amundsen MY18 unit 5Q0035864C (without DAB) or 5Q0035874C (with DAB) Amundsen MY19 unit 565035864 (without DAB) or 565035874 (with DAB) Columbus MIB2 unit 3V0035020x (with DAB, with regular Bluetooth, without LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2 unit 3V0035021x (with DAB, with premium Bluetooth, with LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2 unit 3V0035043x (without DAB, with regular Bluetooth, without LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2 unit 3V0035044x (without DAB, with premium Bluetooth, with LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2.5 unit 565035020x (with DAB, with regular Bluetooth, without LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2.5 unit 565035021x (with DAB, with premium Bluetooth, with LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2.5 unit 565035043x (without DAB, with regular Bluetooth, without LTE Modem) Columbus MIB2.5 unit 565035044x (without DAB, with premium Bluetooth, with LTE Modem) All MIB2 units (as well as Columbus MIB1 which is not listed here) work with 800x480 pixels screens, either 6.5 or 8 inch. MY15 unit support MirrorLink only (no support for SmartLink). SImplified Bolero units do not support rear view camera and voice command. Simplified Bolero, Bolero and Amundsen MY15 and MY16 have old style (rotating, monochrome) menu, with only 1 skin having 5 memory buttons in radio and phone menu. They don't support for APP key in 8 inch FL screens. Simplified Bolero, Bolero and Amundsen MY17 have old style (rotating, monochrome) menu, with 2 skins having 5 or 6 memory buttons in radio and phone menu. It may also support Media Command (depending on FEC.SWaP codes installed). Simplified Bolero, Bolero and Amundsen MY18 has both old style (rotating, monochrome) and new style (pictures, color) menu, with 2 skins having 5 or 6 memory buttons in radio and phone menu. It may also support Media Command (depending on FEC. SWaP codes installed). Columbus units have built-in DVD drive and HDD for maps and audio / video files. Only Columbus units can play video files from USB/CD/DVD/SD. Every MIB2 Columbus unit can be reworked into MIB2.5 unit if required. MIB2.5 Columbus requires new 9.2" screen 5E0919606D. Every Columbus unit can drive directly subwoofer and central speaker (although this setup is not officially supported by Skoda). "x" at the end of Columbus units model number is letter A/B/C/D. Can also be missing. It makes no difference, just indicates original SW release family. Every of listed above units can be reworked into Plug&Play version (no need to visit SKODA dealer).

http://www.kopacek.com/Skoda/YETI/Wind-Rain-deflectors/ I bought the dark ones from there, along with the b-pillar covers.

Thank you 👍 loveing it so far my first venture into Skoda too coming from various vauxhall corsa models.

Good point on the lane departure turn off. it is annoying to have to disable it every trip. heater controls are fiddly ( for the digital climate models ) as you have to open up a separate menu. it’s still a good car though - and I do not regret buying it. Only seen 1 on the roads ever. Prefer rarer cars.

This evening's moon is not quite so impressive

I've just checked and you can still get 4 crossclimate 205 55 16 fitted at Kwikfit for £312. They're a bargain.

So this gauge I have, is more likely to be accurate?

So 1 person not wanting a wireless charger at all makes the wireless charger not being able to be unplugged a problem? your version seems a good alternative for a cheaper price but I don’t agree with not being able to turn it off being a problem. I personally just use a mag safe mount next to my steering wheel and I spend a lot of time in my car and I’ve never wanted to unplug my charger and couldn’t you just put your phone face down if you don’t want it to charge?

Where did you order yours from? No dealer has ever sent me an email that long!

Done some boring maintenence this evening, namely cleaning out the intercooler piping and cleaning the map sensor. Turbo side was pretty dry, considering I don't think its ever had the piping taken off before. Intake side of the intercooler was a little bit oily but not near as bad as I feared. Map sensor, Cleaned it in situ with a lot of electrical spray cleaner. Torx bits holding the map sensor on were very crusty so I left them alone. All cleaned up fine, seems to run nicer after the map sensors been cleaned out, probably a placebo but I'll not complain Have a fair few parts on order for this, some I'll have in a few days, others have been pushed back to next week. Have to wonder how much new intercooler pipes are, maybe I could get some silicone joiners and cut them to length?

Nothing wrong with them, I would happily drive on them till they reach the legal limit. How much tread depth do they have? Or to put it another way, how much money are you throwing away? Surface cracking will not cause a blow out.

Cheers for your response. Ok that settles it I am going to replace them, no sense in risking it with a bigger trip in mind. It isn't just my frugalness that prevents me but also just the guilt of another pair of tyres langushing somewhere whilst being 'recycled'. Yeah he is a good guy and loves his VW group cars. Not the cheapest I am sure but he gives solid advice and will never over sell me on anything. Anyway, thanks to you both.

In my experience, electronic gauges tend to be the most accurate. Gauges attached to foot or electric pumps should only be used as a guide as they are built to a cost.

Not a common fault but a couple of other people have had it, Usually is either the car's been hammered for a good bit or your sitting in traffic for a long while or the box has a dodgy flash/remap. Firstly get it scanned for any codes it might have left behind. The bang is worrying but it could be as simple as re programming the gearbox, I presume you let it cool down and it drove fine? Clutch issues would immediately or should throw up the spanner on the dash if it couldn't select a gear however I wouldn't discard that. Get it plugged in as its pretty much needle in haystack stuff until then, The PCB in the mechatronic has been known to melt if the original mech oil wasn't changed. And as said above it doesn't have to be done by a dealer or specialist, its nit much different from fitting any other clutch apart form there's 2 cutch plates and it needs adapted in by VAGCOM/ODIS.

Just seen your other thread - Auto start system - which gives even more idea to the battery or connections. The car's computers will switch the start/stop off if power is too low but a bad/poor electrical connection could cause problems. Do consider there can be more than one problem or cause, the battery could be low in charge and there be a bad/poor connection(s). If you have any warranty on the car you could take it back to the seller to get it checked and perhaps battery changed (depending on the cause(s) of the fault(s).

I have to say, while I have some serious issues with my car... electronic issues!!! I do think the car is far far better than the Mk3 FL I had. I have changed like for like cars, SE L 2.0 TDi, and, for me, its a far better car in just about every aspect except the electronic gremlins (I am being kind to Skoda here!). 1. While I agree with your first point with regard to Lane assist and the crazy amount of time the car tells me to 'Brake' when nothing is around, it seems all cars are going this way sadly. 2. For me the sound is better in the Mk4, but that is probably just a personal thing, I wish I could change the radio logos though! 3. Couldn't agree more! 4. Not noticed 5. Mine are fine, no real issues or difference for UK driving. 6. I absolutely love the fact that they have a USB C port by the rear view mirror, and two USB C in the front is great, for me I never really saw the point of the old style 12 v cigarette lighter port. 7. I love electric handbrakes, but fingers crossed they don't go wrong! 8. Agree, especially as the screen in the UK is the wrong way round with the 'Home' button as far away from the driver as they could put it! Overall I think the car is more solid, feels far more premium and absorbs the round noise and bumps far better than the Mk3, but as ever its just a personal opinion.

so i need the adapter and a 3.5mm to 3.5 mm

The question is why would you want to have video appearing on the infotainment system whilst the vehicle is in motion?

Junsun head units are slightly different compared to what we have fitted. That is the reason why you cannot find the themes app as i do not think it runs a theme launcher as such and most people with your type of head unit install 3rd party launchers. As i have no real knowledge of using your type of setup it is hard to provide help. You might be best taking a look at the the forums on xda https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/junsun-v1-pro-megathread.4385315/ where you might get better help. Anyway yes you will need to cut those 2 wires as you are using a canbus box. With a canbus box connected the power ACC power supply to the head unit is controlled from the canbus and only powers on when the ignition is switched on, by having those 2 cables still connected you are basically providing permanent power supply to the head unit that will cause the battery drain. On our head units we do not have those 2 cables so nothing for us to cut. By what i have read on the Junsun units they do not have the option to update OTA and can only be done by USB and the files are provided by Junsun directly when you ask them, on the XDA forum they do have all the firmware files available to download when new ones are released.

I doubt you'd ever need 4wd if you have all those palm trees around? 😁

My car came with Bosch Aérotwins and the arms are very good but the rubber wears and deteriorates like any other, my solution was an Ebay vendor who sells the specific rubber profile dirt cheap by the metre. The arms and blade carriers will probably outlast the car. Beware that a lot of people are selling overriced standard Bosch wipers or even counterfeits. I reckon Bosch dont even have any input into the manufacturing of the so called "Standard" wiper blades they sell, I think they just have Chinese ones branded, their logic being that they ight as well beat the counterfeiters at their own game, the person will not be buying Aérotwins anyway but will be swayed by the Bosch branding. Many big name brands especially luxury goods do the above, they created massive sub markets which keep the tiny by comparison luxury end afloat.

well yout unit is different than ours. On the other hand, I think that it is better. One of my friend has one and it runs flawless compred to mine. for the record, the latst update on the T18 is from late february. I don't understant this cutting wire stuff. In our units, we have an option to put it to sleep for 2 hours, 1 day, 1 week... or no sleep. You should check if you have this menu and ser it to hours if you take you car often and don't want a complete reboot at each time or simply to no sleep if you want it to shut down completely. When I get to my car, I will check my harness to see how it is wired.

It's a chance to bring back the "Maxi" name

Loads of fun and games today. I've replaced the thermostat because the car would only get up to 60 degrees whilst driving, that's all sorted. of course the sai pump hose snapped straight away shortly followed by the dipstick tube dropping plastic shards down the tube into the sump, a great design. I've put new rubber mounts on the sai pump I've ordered a new dipstick tube which was cheap and in the uk and I've ordered new hoses for the sai pump from China because they're £13.10 instead of £60. I'll delete the sai at some point but not yet. Next weekend I'll be taking the sump off to clean the bits of dipstick out, I suppose I should price up a new oil pickup too...

New car day 🥰 Unfortunately raining so wet drive home 😥

Right, so here are a few photos of my Scala 🙂 Nope, that oil spot isn't from Scala 😄

That's true, they are roasting😆, but not anymore, in 4 years I didn't find in any coding list something about seat heating. But that's why we have briskoda🥰

At the moment only the mods I listed above, although planning on putting in a dogbone mount soon to help put the power down. I went from standard to stage three. Before I was getting 6.7 0-60 now get 4.7, 14.6 1/4 mile now 12.8 (but I struggle with getting the power to the road atm haha) and 30-100 used to take 12.9 and now takes 7.4 so huge difference top end. I love it, would definitely say it was worth it. Once I’m over 40 miles an hour, not a lot about there that can beat it. I don’t have the SPS, but plan too soon. Most my work was done at Quattro tech st ives.

The only thing I would have considered was a Monte Carlo 1.5 Estate which would have been unique to Skoda. IMO it's a stupid decision for Skoda to drop the estate. A hatchback with option packs is just not worth it. May as well get the Polo Gti for around 26k on Carwow.

Cobblers 😬 Good opportunity to give the 'box a good bit o' spit n'polish though (Looking for a bright side). Gaz.

If I see this settings, no, there are no separate settings for seat and backrest.

One of those CTEK jobs will do a float / maintenance cycle without bother. Personally, I'd just disconnect and remove the battery for the time period. Store it somewhere with a stable temperature and it'll be fine. We do this with the 'summer car' and it starts as eagerly after 6 months as it ever did

it looks like you where told the same as a lot of people who are looking at 10-12 month delivery and by you saying people are dumb is wrong most people knew there was delays in getting there cars.they did not expect up to 12 month delay.