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400 mile round trip today to pick up our vRS TDI from Derek Slack Motors in Middlesbrough. First a big shout out to their sales manager Andy, a top guy, super easy to deal with and described the car perfectly and honestly (a big thing when buying remotely). So far really impressed with the car, drives better than I was expecting it to, certainly better than a 2l diesel estate has any right to! It’s a decent spec without being crazy: Candy White Black Pack+ Dynamic Chassis Control Canton audio Power tailgate No pics other than dealer’s as it’s now filthy, bath time tomorrow!

A few photos from earlier - the sky was a lovely hue just after the sun went dow n

Its a fair point - some apps aren't easy to control with Apple CarPlay in my experience and sometimes Google maps goes a bit weird with CarPlay too. Not often but enough to make it so picking up the phone is easier. I do often watch YouTube videos when parked up and eating my lunch so this is useful for that too....

Also got the exhaust all aligned she sits beautifully, it has a nice subtle note not too loud which is good. And the mib2 and beats system works perfectly 😁 IMG_1387.MOV

So back on topic, here is Harry of 'Harry's Garage' fame talking about PHEVS compared to EVs and ICE running on sustainable fuels. There is a flaw in his figures relating to the PHEV, but it's an interesting look at the different tech and how it impacts the environment. I like Harry and his videos, because they tend to be a no nonsense approach to things and he is a genuine 'car guy', not prejudiced against any particular form of transport.

No problemo. The winner is inner city pollution, tyre pollution apart, and therefore public health improvement we can hope to see.

Was the fuel gauge reading full after putting in that 27.5 litres? Assuming that your gauge was well into the red sector before you started filling, I suspect what happened was that the pump you used may have had a faulty auto-stop and 'clicked-off' early. Less than 28 litres should have only given you between 60-75% on the gauge.

It is months since I have been out on my bikes because of the weather and other circumstances. So diabetic bloods given last week, blood pressure checked which I knew was a bit high. I have my artificial leg for cycling sorted out as that was an issue and the bikes are ready to go. Up early ready to go with a plan for the next few weeks of getting into my usual routine of routes and trips as the weather and my fitness improves. So torrential rain this morning and now on hold until tomorrow or maybe it things dry up later. Appointment made for bloods check in a month's time. I do not want any changes in medication other than reducing to what is was on when doing a few thousand miles a year by bike.

No Kodiaq has ever been fitted with a dry clutch. I believe some versions of the Karoq did have the DQ200 dry clutch at some point, but not the Kodiaq.

Hi all, I have just sold my VW transporter and taken a 2011 octavia VRS tdi in px. The plan was to sell the octavia straight on but I really like it so its here to stay. Its metallic black but looks as though it has never seen any polish in its life 🙄 so the first job is a full valet and machine polish Brace yourselves for a flurry of daft questions Paul

I'm a novice at this kind of stuff. Clutch DMF went before Christmas, I simply went to Clutch and gearbox place....and they repaired it. Gearbox oil wasn't due for replacement at that time. Fell due recently so had it done then. Apparently the wet Clutch had been done approx 50,000k earlier.....seen documentation of that. Thought that strange, but like I said I'm a novice!

I think this thread might have run its course as it's drifting into territory covered by other threads. It's all very interesting, but probably a little unnecessary now there is plenty of threads for EVs, emissions and the like, in this section. Thanks for the replies guys.

Hi my name is Mark, obviously new here. I'd like to share whatever knowledge we have collectively and hope I can be of some help to someone. I drive a 2017 superb 2litre dsg auto!

Hi all, as requested a quick intro about myself. So, my name is Charlie and i live near Abergavenny South Wales. Been here a few years after travelling around a bit but originally from the Potteries. Im into kayaking SUPing paragliding skiing and VW's. Had a few veedubs over the years from Mk1/2 Golfs and T4 transporters. Recently purchased myself an Octavia VRS diesel as I had to do a long trip to the Alps and didn't fancy taking half my garage to fix the T4 whenever it broke down!!! Here because i'm used to fixing all my VW's but not as experienced on the more modern stuff.....so gonna be reading a lot of info off here. Anyway Hi All!!

@AnnoyingPentium very pleased with it so far.......but as with VW's im getting the upgrade twitch already!!!

Hi and welcome to Briskoda, Paul! Hope you enjoy the site, and do detail anything you do on the Octavia as I'm very interested!

Another couple of jobs sorted out there. The pickup pipe looked remarkably free of debris but it's good to know it's sorted. The crankcase breather replacement is interesting & I can see the sense in doing it that way to prevent more plastic falling inside next time. I'm also using Millers 5w40 oil & it seems to be fine. I went for the Nanodrive NT+ just to see what it was like. I guess they're both very similar and I'm sure mine uses less oil since making the switch to 5w40.

If it helps, you can turn off lane assist via steering wheel controls which you can do on the move. On the right side steering wheel buttons press the top left one which opens the assist menu. Lane assist should be selected, so just press the right silver scroll wheel to untick it, and press the first button again to exit the menu. After a while it becomes muscle memory! I used to turn mine off a lot but after some updates a few months ago it got less intrusive so haven't had to bother much. HTH.

Note if you have an Amundsen you MUST use a genuine Skoda SD card, a normal SD card will not work.

Just realised we're at cross purposes... I looked at your video again and the bus IS an eCitaro which can come with LMP batteries as I said... So we are actually talking about the same thing! Hence apologies for my mistake... I think I had a Man M12 in mind for some daft reason.

You'd be surprised, most of what you can see of the head is cams and valve train, the water jacket is really only in the bottom 50mm next to the block deck, the matrix is higher which is why at the first sign of air or gas in the cooling system your heater stops working.

To cap it all: ✗ Untaxed Tax due: 30 September 2020

Start by cleaning out the scuttle and changing the cabin filter.

The listing says "Car has been previously owned by an idiot" - perhaps there's one word too many in that sentence?

& the tank capacity is the capacity of a tank even if out of the car. How much the tank holds. When fitted in the car there is the Up the Pipe capacity to add, and be careful you are not Venting a Tank if filling it til you can see the fuel.

Sounds like an issue with the fob. Some did suffer from excessive battery drain and have been replaced by dealers. I'd start by cleaning the battery contacts and making sure they are making good connection with the battery by bending them out a bit.

@hanfIs it a Skoda Approved Used Car with a 12 month or 24 month Warranty? Does it say FMDSH (Full Main Dealer Service History) ? I would ask if that is serviced to the manufacturers recommendations, so as a customer would be told it needs to be to have a Skoda Waaranty, not just a history of stuff done and stuff not done, like the AC service they tell customer is required. ? Was the Haldex service last year or are you getting it done this year by them now? It is @ 30,000 miles or 3 years or even sooner, and properly serviced not just the oil changed. THIS MIGHT BE MORE IMPORTANT THAT ANY CONCERN ABOUT THE DSG, MORE LIKELY TO FAIL. Hopefully those at the dealership were able to correctly advice you on that. ................. What servicing has it had? Like, Pollen filter changed at 2 years or last year and maybe getting changed now. Brake fluid changed at 3 years or maybe being changed or at least tested now.

Yeah, just read it. 6 litres of the 50 litre tank is the reserve. I'd assume that'd when the light comes on

Ours doesn't have the same gearbox as the OP's (It's a DQ500), but I wrote to Skoda Customer Services when our dealer was trying to persuade us it needed doing at 4 years (same situation as the OP - 2017 car but with very low miles). Their response is below: Re: ŠKODA KODIAQ – TMBMJ7NS0J******* Dear Mr ***** Thank you for your recent contact with ŠKODA Customer Services. I apologise for the delay in my response. I refer to your questions below which I have highlighted. a) which gearbox we have and; – The gearbox is a DQ500 (b) whether the DSG oil and filter change recommendation is time or mileage-based? – DSG oil and filter change is mileage based so it is required at 40,000miles I hope this information proves to be of use. If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to contact me and I will be happy to assist you. Thank you for contacting ŠKODA UK. Kind regards **** **** Customer Relations Advisor ŠKODA UK | Selectapost 34 | Sheffield | S97 3FA Tel: 0333 0037504 [email protected] | www.skoda.co.uk | www.skoda-auto.c So that's conformation that this is mileage and not time-based.

This wiki page suggests generation 1 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Volkswagen_Group_petrol_engines#EA888 (After reaching the page then use Control+F then enter CCZA. Second occurrence looks like your engine)

I did it myself at 45000km. It was already quite dirty. Have a look to my ‘How to guide’ to see the pics. I think 37000 miles or 60000 km is the upper limit to have the pump strainer cleaned. To me it’s a complete non sense from Skoda / VAG to recommend a time related Haldex oil change (every 3 years) instead of every XX miles.

I like the white. That is what I originally wanted before seeing a Meteor Grey car and preferring that.

Most of us know that by now. Sorry you had to learn the hard way. Personally I have to do it on every second trip or so - just to get the sound volume to return to normal. I hope that one day Skoda will finally produce a stable software release. This reset wouldn't be so bad if it were faster and initiated by a momentary button-press. After all I start my computer and my phone from scratch each day too. But unfortunately it takes around a minute to return to normal and also requires initially holding that button down until the screen goes blank which takes 10 seconds of distraction from driving,

Personally, I'd be okay with £1 per kWh rapid+ charging, last year, over 5x domestic energy cap, probably 20x normal EV tariff. As long as I can be guaranteed a pleasant charging experience, that means car park (or forecourt) full of rapid for all bays, excellent device up-time (not broken), attended with trained staff and good facilities nearby for family. Let's be honest, we don't use them often....... but every time I do, the single or 2 charger at random locations are either in-use or broken. 😤 For that reason, I've ordered a Tesla Model Y after testing driving one last weekend. Asked to delay it for German factory ones, may also delay a bit more for rumoured 4680 cells built in the same factory. I'm not in a hurry with the Skoda still feels got plenty of life, just sick of the refuel experience and cost. Superchargers are the most reliable around, in my mind, they are the only viable option for EV long distance travel. The delayed delivery also gives me time to see if they open up superchargers for public use.

It’s probable that none of our home gauges are “accurate”. Not mission critical. Its more important to use the same gauge all the time. Like many above, I use a dial gauge at home that is (a) easy to use and (b) consistent in it’s readings. ps - nitrogen in normal car tyres is absolute ******

We are talking about Superb 3 here. It doesn't even have the option you showed. It's changing the adaptation via OBD11/VCDS. Adapation is called "Wheel Circ", and there are 8 options to choose from. If I recall properly, setting the highest option on my car made the speedo go crazy, it was constantly showing 0 km/h 😁 What I meant is that you can change how the instrument cluster is displaying the speed, by changing the adapation which is basically setting different wheel size. Especially useful when going either for a smaller or bigger wheel.

The car has been running fine since the sensor was changed so that's a bonus. I've also noticed that the fuel economy has improved since, even on cold mornings. My usual commute would give me just over 30mpg when the temp was around 5 degrees Celsius. Since replacing the sensor with a genuine version, it is now around 34 to 36 mpg over the course of the working week. I did a slightly longer run today and was quite pleased to see the numbers on the trip computer were back to where I expected them to be. I'd been dipping into the high twenties over a tank which was annoying, especially as I was trying to be careful. Today's Fuelly fill up said the car had averaged 38.29mpg over 190 miles. Admittedly the ambient temperature was 11 degrees but even so, that's much better. The 190 miles had been a mixture of two long runs of 60 miles and the rest was stop-start traffic. As you can see, there's a theoretical 545 miles from the tank according to the trip computer. Don't worry about me driving and taking pictures either, the Mrs was the photographer. I also turn the traction control off every time I drive the car as I find my right foot is safer than the on/off system the car uses by default. Just after filling up, the computer thought I'd be able to get a whopping 580 miles out of a tank if I kept driving in the same manner as I had for the previous hour and a half. The trip reading for the journey today was reading 47.8 just before I filled up. I know nobody buys a Stage 2 vRS for the fuel economy but it's interesting to see what can be achieved if it's driven carefully.

Yep, seems so, thousands of unfinished cars, stored everywhere, waiting. Mine is supposedly due in May, but have no other info (as some of you have it in more details).

Good advice. I do that too (but with a manual foot pump). Some come with an adapter to connect directly to the car battery. Viar disagree with you there for their units - "Connect the press-on tire chuck to a tire valve stem before turning the unit on". @Ads230Here's Viar's model 84P with "press-on air chuck" and analogue gauge, with 15 amp draw (see pdf of User Manual). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293792153620 00084_Manual.pdf

The all metal type tyre inflator seem better / stronger. See this:- A useful tip is pumps can tend to blow a fuse when you first start them. So I will start the pump then attach my extension clip to the valve. I will also just over inflate the tyre then use a tyre pressure gauge to drop the pressure down to the wanted level. Thanks, AG Falco

Somewhere near Ravenglass.

I hope Skoda can give us all a card or something that says “this person isn’t lying they do really have a new Octavia ordered” cause it’s going to get to a point where no one believes me that I have a new car on order 😂

235/45R18 doesn't fit the ID.3...but 18" rims from the ID.3 do fit the Superb MK3. However, the ID.3's ET50 offset does move the centre of the tyre 6mm inwards compared to the Superb MK3's 8Jx18 ET44, or 4mm inwards compared to the Superb MK3's 7Jx18 ET46. The below alloy rim is almost three times the price of the steel 7.5x18 ET50 ID.3 steel rim...although many will look for cheaper secondhand options. Superb MK3 7.5Jx18 ET46 Alloy Rim https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/kolo-z-lehke-slitiny-trinity-18-pro-superb-ii-octavia-iii/p/3T0071498J+8Z8 It's nice to see a non-directional tread pattern on the Nokian WR A4. Most winter tyres these days seem to have a directional tread pattern.

Nothing wrong with them, I would happily drive on them till they reach the legal limit. How much tread depth do they have? Or to put it another way, how much money are you throwing away? Surface cracking will not cause a blow out.

Yes, if it was a petrol and not diesel, I'd change the spark plugs unless there was clear evidence on inspecting the ones fitted that they had been recently changed or in good condition. In case you can't see it my signature includes - Please note I am not a mechanic or expert in anything - which is proven many times each day and every day on here alone. Unless you get warning lights or a scan tool suggests problems I'd not worry about them. Bear in mind you are only concentrating on the engine which is not really the most important things on a car, priority should be for brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres) visibility and safety electric items. Those are the things I'd suggest checking and servicing, maintenance and repair as required. You could try a couple of tankfuls of "clean" diesel fuel like V-Power now - and one tankful before/during and one tankful after/during future services and MoTs. Helps the British economy and tax revenue too. 😄 Following on from a recent subject, this could include things like if you carry a spare tyre that it is in good condition and correctly inflated (many aren't, discovered too late at the roadside, or Welsh mountain road if you're with a mate with a 15 year old Toyota but to be fair there's so little to do on old Toyotas you forget to check). If there's the can of gunk you might want to (pressure?) check it (and how far out of date it is). You'll probably find the car runs better with more use and not quite as well with very little and/or spasmodic use. You could do well but it'll never be as easy and the same as running company cars, don't forget to do your MoTs and "road tax". 😄

Interesting moon this evening - the entire disc is visible.

So today was the 'I really must clean out the motor covers for the 1st time' All fine until the plate and 1 of the 2 screws on the front decided to disappear into frame 🤬. 6 bolts taken out, Motor dropped, plate out and re-glued to frame, all back together thankfully. The screw was the little fecker next to the pedal

Poor man's S4 Avant... Until I can get the money together for a B7 RS4 this will keep me entertained! Got lots planned with a BBT K300 turbo next on the shopping list.

The battery is an electrically dumb device. All the talk about 'coding the battery' is misleading; you actually code/educate the car about the size/type of battery being installed. The battery has nothing within it that could contain any code.