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Thanks Ecomatt : I'm glad to say that after a few days of refereeing a three way tug of war (among the dealer, Skoda UK and Skoda warranty) it looks like the dealer has blinked and is going to pick up the cost. Just in case it's useful/relevant to anyone else it seems as if the Skoda system logged "B122B12 Central locking motors short circuit to b+ static " when the approved used process was carried out in July 21 before we bought it but that because there was no apparent defect (i.e. the central locking worked) it wasn't followed up but was on the paperwork seen by the warranty team. This then reappeared at the MoT in Feb 22 (but again wasn't notified or followed up) and then it broke in April (which was the first we knew about it). So the warranty people (outsourced to an insurer) say it predated the approved used warranty and is a dealer problem. But of course at that time the car was also under the manufacturers warranty by Skoda UK. It's been a nightmare sorting this out :I now have three lines of emails to various bits of Skoda and I really am grateful to everyone on this forum for their support/contributions. I'm still not 100% sure of the explanation - it would have been so much simpler and a much better customer experience if between them the various Skoda entities had sorted it out on the basis that whoever was going to pay for it it wasn't us. I'm really glad that we didn't just take what we were told at face value and pay up - escalating with the dealer was good advice. Definitely need a cold beer.or two. Thanks again.

Sorry for my english, my scout exploring

Aye, it's a bit basic though, no use of the rear speakers and no CD changer capability but it glows green when I ask the whole interior to, it gets me AM radio for the one local station I like, and I've still got the cassette. Thank you, it hasn't been easy at times. I always consider that this is OEM+, as if it's kitted out the way it should have been, not to the spec of the skinflint owner who specced it lol.

Three cylinder engine can seize if the timing slips.

Even when you do get it to switch off (which should be very easy) you will likely find that the battery discharge continues due to the canbus network being kept active by the radio, you will likely need to source and code a later revision can gateway, I had to do that on my 2006 Octavia when I fitted an aftermarket head unit. It is very well documented on this forum, searching through Google is more likely to bring up the threads than the forum search facility.

Anyone in your position should have done exactly what Spivo did. And I'd have exactly the same sentiments toward the manufacturer as he has. Just to be clear about this, are we correct in saying that all you've done is order a car i.e you haven't bought it? If your dealer is refusing to return any deposit then you obviously have a case, which would be a legal matter rather than involving an ombusman, but if your dealer is saying you can have your deposit back in full, I'm stuggling to be sympathetic toward someone who appears to be digging their own grave. Just cancel and buy another car. Easy Peasy.

They look gopping. Enjoy!

Hi guys! A few days ago I found this forum after searching for more information about delivery times for Škoda Octavia, and since then I've been reading through this topic to get a better picture of how things actually work. Now, after reading through most of the posts in this topic it seems natural for me to share my experience. So, I have ordered my Octavia Style on the 14th of July last year. At that moment I was told that the approx. waiting time is 9 months, with which I was cool since I didn't need new car immediately. So the 9-month period I was told about ended on the 14th of April and the car obviously didn't arrive. Since the end of January, I am periodically calling my sales representative to see if there is something new happening about the delivery. At the end of January, I was told that my car was ready for production but then it halted because of the fire in Mlada Boleslav. From that point on every time I would call my sales representative he would tell me that situation is pretty bad and that I should prepare for a scenario in which the car will be delivered at the end of 2022. or beginning of 2023. So he was straight with me since the beginning of this agony, which I appreciate very much. Despite all these negatives, last phone call with a sales rep. was somewhat positive because he told me that my car is finally in production. He also told me that I should not get my hopes too high just yet because even if it is possible that the car will arrive in 1 month more realistic scenario is that I will have to wait 3 to 4 more months for the delivery. And that is my experience so far. I will try and update you with any new information that I receive. To whom it may concern...I am from Croatia and I ordered my Octavia from one of the dealerships near Zagreb.

Looks fantastic, I am sure you will enjoy it. Just had a 400 mile round trip in mine. First time I have had ACC and boy is it better the plain CC. It did take me back at first when it slowed down when approaching a car that was quite a bit in the distance. Then I realised it was set in maximum distance.

Skoda Phoenix Orange in very bright sunlight. The colour ranges from almost yellow to a bronze in lowlight. I think its a "marmite" colour, but im done with "50 shades of grey" 😳 For the last 12 years I have had black, silver and grey, all neutrals.

It seems I will go on holidays with a brand new Skoda. Just got an info that the car should arrive to the dealer this week.

Sold my car over a year last October due to a motor bike accident nearly three years ago that prevents me driving a manual. Started driving a year ago, the wife's Mokka X 1.4 turbo. Anyway have now ordered a new Volvo XC90 Ultimate plug in hybrid in Crystal White with charcoal interior, which can take my disabled kit. I would have gone for the hybrid Kodiaq that was coming at one point and then wasn't, was very disappointed with Skoda on that one but the bean counters got their way. So I ordered an XC60 and promptly changed that to the XC90 because of the boot size when seats 6&7 were folded down Will still pop in now and again if nothing else than to be amused by some of the posts and maybe add a comment or two. Anyway best of luck everybody and stay safe.

That’ll defo make for a harder rear

On the Bosch C1 battery charger, there's an LED light that comes on when the battery is fully charged. So it doesn't stay on.

Fair bit done this evening Stripped new subframe to get the console Funny enough, same as the subframe on mine the passengers side console came out like butter, and the drivers side one was very difficult to remove, but it did come out without busting the bolt. Didnt go any further with that tonight. Moved onto removing the dogbone from my subframe, the bolt was rung so I ended up cutting and drilling the nut on the top of the subframe to remove the bolt that way. Happily the subframe I bought came with the same bolt. Bit of damage but it won't be seen, and has been painted over so won't rust. Found a nut to use instead. Does mean I'll have to drop the subframe if it needs changed in the future but it'll do. I think I could have used the petrol subframe even though its a different shape, I figured they were different but I didnt need it anyhow. It's a fair bit rougher looking than mine , the Wishbones were the same. I'll throw them up cheap somewhere, hopefully they'll be of use to someone else Top of it was hammerited to keep it from rusting. Inner bits were done after the pic was taken. Also fitted the nice steering rack bush And tiger sealed a gearbox mount and the dogbone bush Used the diesel dogbone as a base, the petrol one felt far softer in comparison to the already soft diesel one even though they look identical to me. Pretty much everything done to this point. Next day the subframe should be going back in and atleast the passengers side wishbone assembly as it is ready to go. All of the stuff I hammerited has so far come out great. A lot nicer than rusty metal.

Thank you. Might give it a shot if I've got the aftermarket system back in.

This has some good detailed information and things you can check and try. https://www.howacarworks.com/accessories/identifying-and-suppressing-radio-interference

The altanator and wiring can cause problems with radio and amplifiers. I've seen this over the years with people putting in custom stereo, speakers and amplifiers. The problem goes away with the engine of but soon as the engine running the problem starts.

Well, I heard a good one today. Skoda are running advertisments on national radio here apologizing for the delays in Octavias, Kodiaqs and a third I cant remember.

Well I finally got them all out with No 2 being the PIG. I had to break the bridge clamp holding 1 & 2 to release 1 and give more room to work. Tap a chisel down the sides between the forks and the injector body and the brittle forks break off. Still couldn't extract No2. so decided to sacrifice the cyl. head cover (£60) to get more extraction options. Didn't use the angle grinder to cut the cover as it would spew far too much plastic over the camshafts. I used a soldering iron with plastic cutting knife bit to create a hole about 50mm around the stuck injector, then lifted the cover over it. More huff & puff and before trying the stillsons, I made the slide hammer heavier and took more care to align the impact shock central to the injector. Also removed trhe HP union and used that to hold my slide hammer fixture solid to the injector body. Each slide hammer blow raised the injector about 5mm until it was clear. Checkout the Laser tools injector remover if you want to copy theirs. Visual condition: Injector 1 oily but clean, O ring still in the groove. Injector 2, Hardly any oiling up, good O ring. Injector 3 oiled up and O ring fragmented. Injector 4 a total mess. with lots of black gunk and hard bits of carbon/O ring outside the injector body, O ring seal gone and groove filled with gunk. The OE seals are 16.2mm ID x 1.5mm. I think they were Buna-N. I shall replace them with 16mm x 1.5mm Viton rings and replace each injector with injector grease. Parts lists shows O rings at the end of each nozzle and some sell kits with 2 O rings per injector. If there's an O ring on the nozzle, It must be way down at the bottom of the cyl. head and I haven't explored how to get to it yet. Off to the diesel injector man tomorrow to have them all tested. Everybody tells me these CR engine injectors aren't serviceable? Not sure what they mean because the black electrical connector body can be removed by the large 29mm nut - watch for the small spring, washer and bypass jet pintle! After that everything is mechanical. It looks as though the lower half of the injector body can be separated? I suspect they can be disassembled but you can't get Bosch small parts and more important, measure and qualify the flow calibration. Onwards & Upwards!

Part numbers only difference is between the normal seat/VRs & leather not handed so a passenger side will fit the drivers side https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2005-453/8/881-881004/#29

I fitted the same as above👍 Great price and easy to fit defo go detachable You cant notice that it has one when neck removed

This car has only had one owner from new,I had a friend do a check on it and it all seems genuine apart from being registered as automatic😥

Cars can be wrongly registered, & V5's can be wrong, an this can be the DVLA's fault, dealers / manufacturers. The build sticker in the boot will have the gearbox code on it. Best get a VIN and a check to see if it was built as a manual or an Auto / DSG. Also Check the Co2 g k/m of the manual model and the auto. ? Have you seen the car? Best be sure it is sorted for when insuring the car.

I have Thule wingbars that I have used on several different cars, just bought a new foot pack to suit. I don't use the bars half as much as I used to these days so I was looking for a cheaper alternative. I tried a pair of "Streetwise" bars from Amazon for £45, they were no good as they touched the roof with the inside of the mount. I went to Halfords to have a look at their own brand offering and low and behold their FP5 foot pack was almost identical to Thule, not surprising really as they are actually made in Sweden by Thule. Result, new Thule foot pack for half the price of the Thule branded product.

Update as promised. Took car into dealer on Tuesday morning and have just picked it up (3 days). As you can see from the before and after images, software has now gone from version 156 to 278 and the device part number has had a 'B' added to it. Apparently the update failed twice before it finally succeeded. The service rep did say that there was another major software update due in June if this one didn't fix the problem. It's early days, but all worked perfectly on the 30 mile journey home (but it's done that before). Re the comment from ERIK99, it's difficult to know who is giving the correct information, but my dealer told me the updates don't rely on a subscription to connect.

👋 Enjoy the new motor. But don't be too down on Skoda... these are extraordinary times that we're living in. That's not to say they've not ****ed up...

and thanks for the offer of lending me your UV torch. Very kind, thanks again!

😁! thank you

Received this delightful Bush MTT1 for £20 from a member of another forum. Arrived today and is a lovely wee bit of kit. Also included were some free LPs... including this Genesis one. I've never heard it before, good so far.

no i still don't have date for production i was informed that i will get Model year 2023 and not 2022

There's one other fuse you could check (will look up in a sec), but if the refrigerant is very low you won't get the compressor being ramped up I think, or even if it is, the pressure rise won't be enough to trigger the fan. Shorting thermoswitch connector contacts can be a way of checking radiator fan function independent of the A/C triggering. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/503932-radiator-fan-relay-switch-de-pin/?do=findComment&comment=5659700 If you happen to have a UV torch you can have a look round the engine bay in low ambient light levels and maybe see leak sources if any dye has ever been added when topping up. I have one you could borrow, probably wouldn't cost too much to post. O-rings in the high pressure side of the circuit are candidates if there's no obvious condenser damage etc.

@MarkyG82 front is perfect now, rear axle still isn't done, Tuning-Expert.com ignores my prayers about ship-out Bilstein B6 DampTronic 20-267537 ordered in August. Month after month they report "out of stock" and PayPal protection already ran out 😞 p.s. have to make new measures. visually, front dropped ~ 5mm during few months

I wasn't offended and I'm sorry if my reply sounds as if I was! I'm only too pleased to chat with people like yourself about these topics and issues.

Hi, It doesn't say if the connection cables are included or not. As far as I know, there are no cables preinstalled. So you also need the cables from the front console to the rear.

The dealer is Vrtač, Kranj. I have waited 10+ months. I have contacted the dealer a few times in the past 10 months but got no information except date being pushed back. The first information I got was the beginning of this month, that the car is going to production.

you need to get a test drive in the latest tdi engine, you might get a surprise, definetly not gone downhill, in fact it's the opposite i agree they are more complex than before though, so more can go wrong, but so are petrol engines it's only 5% new diesel car sales because people are falling for all the government bull$hit

i've had vw tdi's for the last 30 years or so and the 150 tdi in my 2022 superb is the best engine i've had, i thought the 150 tdi i had in a 2018 arteon was good, but this latest engine is even better. i'm not sure what vag have done internally to the engine but it's quieter and pulls better from a standstill, i know the torque has been increased to 360nm and they call it an evo engine. TDI engines in the past always needed around 8000 - 10,000 miles before they loosened off but this latest engine feels like it is already run in straight out the box. As for town driving in a diesel, i dont find it a problem as long as you allow regens to complete, my tdi caddy only does 5000 miles a year and virtually all town driving . i use the vag dpf app to monitor things.

Sounds like you are already on top of tyre selection. Didn't mean to offend if I did. There's a lot of misinformation on winter tyre use with many thinking they are for snow and ice. All seasons (like yours) are perfect for most UK conditions.

Indeed and it was a damn good pie, too! And I realised after that they forgot to charge me for my coffee. I haven't got to the bottom of it yet, no. There is one vent on the top of the tank which leads to a 5mm-ish plastic pipe. On later models it feeds via a gravity valve then out of a grommet in the boot floor. On mine it's just a 3m-ish long pipe with no valve - outlined in red. I pulled the whole pipe out, checked for blockages, re-routed it a bit and chopped about 75cm off the length. I can easily blow air into the pipe so it doesn't seem to be blocked. It's really odd. I have thought about the idea of making a new vent. No. 14 on mine does not exist, and is what's needed I think.

My TSI will show 90 C on the temperature gauge between 1 and 2 miles from a cold start. This is NOT accurate, and when I want to find the correct water temperature I will use OBD11. The oil temperature display on the MFD will only show oil temperature from 50 C and above. It will display ' - - - ' when the oil temperature is below 50 C. From a cold start the oil will reach 50 C from 2 to 4 miles. The colder it is outside the longer it takes. After 12 miles it will be between low 80's C and low 100's C The hotter it is outside the higher it gets. I find the car engine can keep its heat for a long while after you turn the engine off. There are two coolant circuits and two thermostats on this engine. One circuit is for the Cylinder Head with a thermostat that opens at 87 C. There is no exhaust manifold and the Turbo is mounted directly on to the Cylinder Head. The exhaust ports/pipes in the Cylinder Head are surrounded by coolant waterways. This circuit supplies the heat / hot water for the cabin. ( very quickly ) There is a coolant temperature sensor on the back of the cylinder head, G62. The second circuit cools the Cylinder Block and has a thermostat that opens at 105 C. There are two coolant pumps on this engine. One mechanical which is in the ( 2 ) thermostat housing and is driven by a belt from the exhaust camshaft. This is on the gearbox side of the engine at the top. The second coolant pump is electrical and is on the front of the engine. V188. ( Was this the one that was changed on your car Hetty1? ) This can / will run when the engine is turned off and supplies coolant to the Turbo at the same time. Also on the front of the engine there is both an oil cooler and a charge air cooler that uses the coolant. So there is no air to air intercooler behind the front grill. There are also two coolant radiators behind the front grill. The lower one for the electrical coolant pump. The higher one for the coolant coming from ( 2 ) thermostat housing. This also has a coolant temperature sensor on the return flow. G83. THT Thanks, AG Falco

You can't really do anything except wait for the aircon guy to vacuum test it and find the leak(s).

Another delayed nonRS Style, 9,5 months at the moment.

You should assume nothing. Many people who didn't order RS are still waiting more than a year. I am waiting 10 months, also nonRS Octavia (Style).

1K0513029JE rear shock absorbers match rear springs with build codes 0YB, 0YC, and 0YD (which are softer springs than 0YE so isn't correct for your car). 3C0513049CP rear shock absorbers match rear springs with build code 0YE (which is correct for your car). 3C0513049AR rear shock absorbers are for cars with build code 1X1 which is 4-wheel drive (so isn't correct for your car). Rear shock absorbers for Superb MK2 with standard ride height 7 1K0 513 029 JE gas shock absorber rear 2 PR-0YB,0YC, 0YD (7) 3C0 513 049 CP gas shock absorber rear 2 PR-1JA,1JL+ 0YE,0YF,0YG, 0YH,0YJ,0YK, 0YL (7) 3C0 513 049 AR gas shock absorber rear 2 PR-1JA+1X1 (7) 3C0 513 049 AR gas shock absorber rear 2 PR-1JA+1X1+ TE6,TL4

Good effort Westy. Exposure looks good. White cars are tricky to shoot, I find that you loose some detail if on auto as the car tends to be over exposed. Underexposed for black cars. It can be adjusted after in lightroom or similar if it’s not quite right. I also like like that there’s space around the car, which can work well, you don’t need to fill the frame with the car. If you pan the camera with the car it may have been a little sharper with a feeling of movement. I like the idea and the setting though. Nice one.

Good evening, and a warm welcome from jist ootside of Ayr.

Heres a short video of new SportLine.

I have gotten my car back from the dealer. Reading from the log: They did a check and found errors in the software. This lead to some kind of software configuration according to the TPI 2066197. After that a software update. Now the WiFi is available in the settings menu and I can both use carplay and Android auto wireless.