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who buys a diesel and only drives 5000 miles a year ? @Ords is correct - you need to buy a car with an engine that suits your driving needs, you cant really complain if you are not driving a car like it is intended to be driven and is starts to have issues. A car is usually the second most expensive thing you will ever buy but so many people dont do any research beforehand. This wonderful forum and many others mean that even non-car type people can find out about a car before purchasing. BAck to the OP, you negotiated them down because you suspected an issue, use that money to fix it - simple.

a lot of us have waited a very long time for our cars, with the problems with chips then doors and vrs doors and wiring looms etc it is never ending.i dont mind waiting my turn but when some people get there cars and they had ordered the same cars months and months after you.must get to us all.

I’m getting my car next week guys. So my journey was like this: - ordered on 6. August 2021 in Slovenia - no info till 25 April 2022 when told car has VIN and is waiting parts - 31 Maj 2022 told car is finished and awaiting transport hope you all get your cars as soon as possible. It can go from 0 information to a quickly finished car.

I agree 100%, but you guys who get good news, please still share it here. If you get the car faster than others it is not your fault and we are not angry with you, we are still happy for you.

Well, it is not uncommon for VAG cars to say one thing on a fuse and it do something entirely different......however, that fuse for what ever reason should not be blown, so it needs replacing first to carry on the diagnosis. According to another edition of the owners manual, fitting / removing that fuse disables the daytime running lights, so the fact its blown anyway says it might not be the case. Get some fuses from halfords, or petrol station, fit the correct size / rating (by colour) and go from there, "if" it blows as soon as you fit one, then there is a fault / direct short to ground and further investigation required.

Also, imagine buying a used TV with a known potential problem which was given a discount based on said problem. Would you then expect the seller to repair/refund/whatever if the TV failed due to that problem. I would see it as a risk (sometimes worth it) and would expect to either repair or replace it myself. If you want a non-problematic product, either buy new or don't negotiate a discount. Both those situations would offer you more moral and legal grounding for any subsequent failures.

It is engaging but jumps out under power, it means the synchro collar that locks the 3rd gear to the mainshaft after the baulk ring (or rings if its a 6 speed box) has done its stuff has the teeth burred over. Given your comment about running out of travel and that it sometimes engages properly you may be lucky & find it is a detent problem but it is probably a bent or fractured selector fork.

both cars done now so yet a bit more added security thanks to all as always

Odometer changes can only be done using official tools when the cluster is 'new', below around 100 km iirc? This is not the dealers fault, it's just a limitation of the tools they have available. There are 3rd party tools that can adjust the odometer on used clusters. You'll need to find a decent auto-locksmith to do it for you On this age of cluster, it should be possible to increase or decrease the mileage. On some newer MQB clusters it was only possible to increase it but I think the latest 3rd party tools may have gotten round that.

Keep an eye on fuel economy. Even a small leak can affect the info the rear lambda sensor feeds back to the engine ECU with potential impact on fuelling. The flexis, in my experience, tend to be more broken than they appear when both ends of the section are still attached and supported by the rubbers. Disconnecting the front end to allow more exploratory movement may reveal significant damage.

Got my VIN number today - but the car has a note that is waiting for missing parts - dealer says max 2 months.....

Thanks and that's interesting. I think it just all happened on a bad day (bad day at work, HMRC tax bill for £900) so it annoyed me more than it might have done. Personally I don't think there is anything to particularly worry about but I have been disappointed by the buying experience as after a Ford Focus and 2 x Mazda 3's this has been a really bad buying experience in comparison to Fords of Winsford and a Mazda dealership (and that was not great) and I expected better from Skoda given all the rave reviews (although this is Lookers Skoda, for what that's worth). Also there is a bit of chain involved as my wife will be getting rid of her car and having mine as part of this so that adds to the hassle and disappointment. Based on the last two responses I am going to email the saleswoman and see what she comes back with me. Hopefully it will be delivered Friday (but as I say I'm very doubtful on this). Thanks for all the responses: it's been a very mixed bag but all useful.

I would add that if you may be following someone who has wired stuff wrong you may not be able to follow the book (even if they are badly written and contain errors and unstated variances). You must also hope they've not been playing with any computer settings too, doubtful if they can't follow the wiring properly but you never know. The central locking not operating after numerous repeated pushes might just be the computer program being outwitted (or who knows, even design) I'd not tempt fate by annoying any of the computer programs. Would the central locking work with a door open anyway (I don't know the answer on this model). Good camera angle on video. 👍

Visited Mathewsons (Thornton-le-Dale) today to view a potential purchase. Decided against the car, but what a truly lovely village 👍

This can't be serious :X I just hope that this estimation is only for those who are ordering now, and hopefully company is targeting to finish the current orders earlier

Hi, According to Brake System manual for Suerb Mk3 (to be downloaded from cardiagn.com for free ), you should find the tightening torques either in chapter 46 - Brakes- mechanism / section "2.1 Assembly overview - rear brakes” (page 47) or in chapter 47 - Brakes - hydraulics / section “2.1 Assembly overview - rear brake caliper”, (page 74).

This is epic! It might actually take 2 years to get a car from order. 😂

Or....did the dealer forget to order until I rang them last week?

Thanks Warrior. No that’s the odd thing: no warning light and nothing on the vehicle status - this may make sense as it comes as goes so quick. I’ll give the sensors a wipe and see if that helps!

Mine moves on my 1.2tsi slightly when closed. It clicks shut. Never lose coolant

The fact that you heard and felt a click tells me that the movement is correct for that type of cap retention mechanism, its probably an anti-overtightening mechanism like the tamperproof lids on pill jars. With the old style you tightened against an increasing resistance until you could tighten no more but it was hard to judge, the weak wristed may have left the cap insecure, the ham fisted might damage the threads or prevent anyone weaker from subsequently removing it.

It means a bird has pooped on your car 😆 Hopefully someone will be along with a proper answer for you soon!

Any moisture on the seal, which could aid it moving?

The regen will be triggered by whichever of the parameters reaches the 22.5g (probably) threshold, if your calculated figure drops then your vehicle has not had the emissions fix which is good news, the bad news is that your actual measured readings are going up faster than the calculated ones, on my car it would regen at 22.5 calculated but the measured was only ever 3g. so it sounds to me like your DPF is pretty clogged with oil ash unless there is a problem with the differential pressure sensor or its adaptation, I think you said you have already done that, there are at least 2 different contributors both raising multiple threads clutching at straws hoping to be told that their DPF's are not actually clogged.

In this instance the OP negotiated an £800 reduction on the price after having used VCDS to check the DPF readings and the back pressure, all the indications were the DPF was blocked which has indeed proved to be the case. The OP was no doubt hoping to get lucky and resolve the problem by a sensor change or DPF cleaning, the latter may still reward him. Under those circumstances despite the law being on his side and your exhortations in my opinion it would be morally wrong to now expect the garage to replace the DPF at their cost. To the OP's credit he has not shown any indication of going down that route. To answer your question regarding the TV or whatever, actually yes I do in fact, most purchases are on line and at the least I would have to pay the cost or return transport, also I live in France where customer service is an oxymoron, when something fails I can usually repair it and reinforce the weak part very quickly usually at no cost, I would much prefer that to driving an 80km round trip to be given the run around, told it has to go back to the manufacturers and then never see the product or my money again. Or send it back to the seller at my cost for them to say they did not recieve it. For the same reason I would never buy a new car or from a dealer except on a trade sale sold as seen basis if the price was right.

Your taste is as good as any. As long as YOU like it, thats the most important factor

Took it to the fella up the road. He got a gadget out of a drawer and plugged it in and 30 seconds later I was on my way. Sorted.

Whilst it's nice to see the smaller EV, why are all EV coming with 19/20/21" wheels? Drop down to a 16" wheel size or even a 17" and the range would go up due to lower rolling resistance. Would also reduce tyre replacement costs and the cost per mile

Yes but mileage claim is supposed to cover wear and tear, costs of insurance, servicing as a true cost per mile, not a cost of just fuel per mile. TBH, I would suggest that the 4-5p per mile needs to become 10p before taxable (for electric) and the 45p needs to become 55-60 before being taxable. These amounts are not what you have to get paid, they are the amounts the company can pay you before it's taxable and where you can claim the tax difference to if paid less.

Whereas the rest of us are from moral backgrounds.

I would not use the supplied U bolts & use stainless Mikalor clamps instead, they remain circular and spread the load over a much larger area so do not distort the pipe creating leaks, they are dirt cheap to buy. I recently replaced the sleeve joint to the rear pipe on my Yeti, the clamps rust away, bought a new assembly and also 2 Mikalor clamps in case it didn't fit, in hindsight I did not need the new joint which will in time rust, the inner sleeves of the old joint are stainless, you can simply knock off the rusted remains of the old clamp and use mikalors in their place.

Thanks 👍 This matches my vRS and assumed this is the only standard setup. Never knew about the boot release option aswell.

I'd view the roof dent as a positive. It's failed an inspection and they've been upfront about it. You didn't spot it, so the roof's presumably not concave or looking like it was upended during a rally stage off. And they're going to resolve it. Asking for before and after photos might alleviate your concern. I'd certainly want to know details. As to it not being serviced yet, there might be a perfectly reasonable explanation. In the team I've just left, we needed 13 people to keep ticking over in one area, but due to sickness, maternity, Covid, over the last two years we'd been routinely down to three to five staff. Strategy, routine work and planning was put on hold and we were doing the next most important thing next, so I can understand things ending up being last minute. Agree with everything George (Root) and EN have said. Gaz

A Briskoda member and Skoda driver. I like to support him and maybe others can subscribe.

YES Putting the switch in the thick brown earth wire would work just as well.

I rushed into this purchase. But the test drive made me weak at the knees. It's so much fun, really quick, and there's plenty of room for my fishing tackle. I turned 51 years old a couple of days ago. I want to be wrapped in leather and luxury. So, I'm looking at a BMW 430d, 435d, or an Audi S3. Maybe a Mazda 3 or 6 or maybe a Volvo V40. I'm fortunate that I'm in a position to buy whatever I like without selling the Fabia, but I don't really want to own two cars. I've spent over a grand on my vRS since I bought it in April. £480 on Michelin Pilot Sport 5 tyres, £300 on new wishbones and £300 on a new drivers seat belt(fitted by Skoda Stockport). It's for sale on ebay for £5575. I'll be losing a few quid as I'm into it for £5700. But that's ok. I'll happily accept £5500.

We can’t give you his details. However we do have them. We can share with legal / law as required. If you paid via PayPal guest you can raise a dispute with them. East to say in retrospect of course. ultimately there is little we can do to prevent fraud if indeed this turns out to be. He may equally of gone on holiday for two weeks… or longer. I know unlikely. Now I’m aware we can try a few things.

I have the opposite issue, Lee. I have a fuel pulley thing that doesn't even work since the spring is missing due to the fuel cap shroud thing being massacred.

Firstly, I am a cynical old so and so, so bear that in mind. I also keep my cars for the best part of a decade normally, so I buy really cautiously. If anything is not quite right, I walk. From your initial posts, there are too many little niggling "Hmm, that's odd!" triggers for my liking. Maybe I'm wrong and it's all good, but I don't like unpleasant surprises when it comes to buying cars, and dents in the roof definitely come under that category. As I said, it's a Spidey-sense thing, not an opinion based on fact. If you're a bit twitchy about the purchase and are considering a refund, it might be just cold feet at the prospect of handing over a lot of cash (I get that), but it might be your subconscious trying to get you to notice something. As you tend to keep your cars for a long time too, I'd be twitchy about how good the repair to the roof is going to be. How's it going to look in 5 years? How long is the repair guaranteed for? I am hyper-cautious and am probably at the extreme end of the scale when it comes to nervous buyers, so bear that in mind when reading my concerns. Incidentally, my last car had a dent in the sill when I bought it. Never gave me a moment's trouble. The rear door which had been repaired before I bought it started rusting after about 10 years, though. That was a nuisance.

Thanks for getting back to me. I found a car sparky who seems to have a good reputation and charges 40 an hour no vat. All other places my way are 75+vat per hour. Enough to make your eyes water. There's got to be something going on so will get him in and post here after.

Simply ask the question of the salesperson, because if asked they need to tell you if they know, and they bought the car so should know. Send them in an email and get a reply in writing. Ask them to print out the cars service history and send it now before you collect the car. Tomorrow will do.. How many previous registered keepers, Do they know the cars history, first registration / registered keeper. VW Finance or whatever. has the car been in an accident and repaired. Has there been any warranty work required on the car or any service campaign / recall actions. *Not just written off you want to know about. But then they would not knowingly buy a write off. (well you might think that.) they need to tell you is there anything on the system of body repairs to factory standard so that the paint and corrosion warranty is valid. Even this small roof repair should show on the system as services include body inspections.

It was raining as we drove to Rufford, but the sun came out just as we arrived 👍

Greetings Snowr0 Quite a step from a freelander to a 190 Superb I'd forgotten about the Golden Flash. So many great bikes. I'm a four wheel merchant, but my Dad's first mode of transport in the early 1950's was a Vincent Comet, 500cc 'thumper', which he put a Bullet sidecar on when my older brother arrived. Dad finished a long and distinguished bike history commuting on a Honda CX500 in the mid 1980's, before retiring. Between him and my brother they had over 100 bikes. Dad loved his Sunbeam S7, and my Brother couldn't choose, although he did love a late '70's CB (I think) 400/4. Highlights were a Series C Rapide that never quite got finishes, a Trident (bent frame), TriBSA and the time they both had consecutive numbered ex Police G5 Guzzi's. Sadly all photos lost to age, and I'm waffling. Gaz

You should visit a big car scrapyard that allows you to visit and take what you need. I am sure you'll get a decent replacement from Russian or VAG cars.

Those look cool, what's the make and model? FYI, I found this french site that has a large selection of rims but, most importantly, allows you to see how they look in different sizes in a realistic view. It's velonity.fr

Just so you know where you stand. Legally the fact they gave you £800 off the price of the car does not absolve them of the responsibility to repair a fault. Equally they should be paying for your car to be either collected to take it back to them to be repaired locally or at a garage nearby to you. They are fobbing you off, simple as that. If you remove the dpf and it is found out it will be an mot fail. I would push the dealer and site the Comsumer Rights Act 2015. If they refuse I would contact Citizens Advice/Trading Standards who can take it on your behalf.

Problem is, there is refurbishing, and then there is proper refurbishing. Most are just 'smart' repairs, quick sandpaper, repaint and clear coat. 6 months later (12 if you're lucky) you start noticing bubbling of the paint. Proper refurbishment involves acid bath, shot blasting, repairs, powder coating, clear coat etc, which is what companies like Rimtec and Amazing Alloys in Telford do. In effect they come back to factory finish. I also have the 19" Trinity's and by coincidence all 4 are at Amazing Alloys at the moment with my L&K looking pretty sad for itself on my drive on axle stands 😭 I decided not to have them diamond cut again because of dreaded 'white worm' so have gone for full Anthracite, total cost was £ 320 inc vat. I also got genuine bolt covers and centre caps from here: https://www.skoda-parts.com/online-store.html covers were 16 normal and 4 locking for 7.06 eur total and centre caps 6.70 eur total. Took 4 days from CZ! When they arrived realised didn't have the cap 'puller' but found cars toolkit already had one included, think of everything them nice Skoda people 👍

I fitted the same as above👍 Great price and easy to fit defo go detachable You cant notice that it has one when neck removed

Been thinking about doing this for way way too long - finally gave Gandalf a lip extension!! 😊 It's a Rieger splitter. Was looking and looking for a splitter that didn't stick out like the Maxton and SuperSkoda versions. Fits perfectly. Quality is great. Going to get it finished in Gloss Black soon, so it matches the gloss black of the fog light frames....