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Just a quick update. Car went to garage where they pressure tested the cooling system. There was coolant dripping from the inlet manifold but they couldn't see where from. Removed the manifold and found the item in the picture had opened up along a glued seem. Seems to be some sort of device for heating the inlet manifold using the hot coolant. Garage (ex Skoda dealership) said they had never changed one before. Anyway thanks for the advice.

i waited 14 months and 6 days for my car.i was told it was built and on its way to the uk.i got it 27 july but should of had it a week or so earlier,due to balls up at there end for paper work.then i had a few software problems and complained to skoda who said they were looking into what has gone on.then yesterday the car was working perfect but cannot find updates they have done over the air.so fingers crossed all is well oh by the the way the car is great to drive.good luck to you all in getting your cars soon.

Well I for one would not expect a clutch to fail after I had fitted a new headlight, door mirror glass, LED bulbs etc it's disgracefull, they dont make things like they used to, I mean who in the good old days would have believed that a clutch would last for 18 years and 147000 miles? 🤣

Sorry meant to put this on the original post. 036121188B Regards

Bleeding will alleviate it but the problem will be air being drawn in through the O ring joint between the two plastic parts of the concentric slave cylinder. When you get to the stage as I did of having to bleed the clutch every 20 minutes in town driving (it takes seconds when you have become expert through doing it so many times) you have no choice but to bite the bullet and remoove the gearbox and replace the cylinder usually doing the whole clutch and dual mass flywheel while you are there. The trouble being unless you can find a new old stock original eraly revision number one piece alloy cylinder you will be fitting a new part which will in time fail in exactly the same way, they always suck air in but never leak fluid out. Its been a year since I did mine and 18 months since I first started having problems, back then only a few people had suffered before me, now there are several postings a week ,yours is the second in 2 days.

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Audi - that is a Skoda in a party frock.

Some pics from the past few days

It's probably worth noting that as Euro 7 requirements come in, they will increase the cost of ICE cars. As shortages reduce the cost of EV will come down a bit (But not much due to metal demands). Hopefully EV depreciation will show as lower and the cars will be cheaper per month than current estimates. Hydrogen EV will hopefully reduce the need for mega sized batteries for long range cars, increasing the efficiency of EV by reducing the weight. Cars like the ioniq 6 are improving range by being more aero, which again improved efficiency. I don't think it's too far from a point where the lease differences between EV and ICE cars will probably come down to under £100 a month and at that point the £3600 cost is swallowed by fuel savings. Plus that's comparing a like for like in car, if you want like to like in performance, then the EV is probably cheaper to lease and the fuel costs for the performance ICE will be much higher when you use the performance.

I worked out the following on a thread somewhere: Lease: Petrol vs EV = £200-300 more per month on EV (Let's take £200) Fuel: Petrol £1.80 and Electric at £0.20p (A mix of 1/3rd Rapid and mostly very cheap home charging) MPG: Petrol = 45MPG = 10MPL and Electric = 3.5M/kWh. So 12000miles a year: Petrol = £2160 in fuel per year. EV = £685 in electric per year. So 3 years fuel = £6480 and Electric = £2057. If you can charge at home and bring your average electric cost down to 20p or less per kWh, you're onto a big win on fuel alone. Tax = £165 and £0 So £6480+(£165*3) = £6975 - £2057 = £4918 difference over 3 years of fuel/tax. Now add in the assumed £200 per month for 36 months and you have a cost of (36*200) £7200 extra for the EV lease. You save £4918 on fuel, but lose £7200 on lease costs. Net benefit on an EV = - £2282 over 3 year, 12k mile lease. If you don't already have an EV, then you need to buy a charger etc, so it's a higher investment. Essentially, unless you get your EV fuel cost down to almost zero, then a petrol car on a lease is cheaper at £1.80/L and 45MPG. However it's not that simple as you have: Fuel pricing changes (both fuels) Fuel availability issues Time saved/lost Saving the planet (or not) Miles around town vs motorway, as these change the equations. How much time you spend on public chargers If you have solar, that is essentially providing free electric If servicing is really cheaper on an EV (Doesn't look it currently) Do you already own a petrol car outright Do you already own an EV outright Availability of cars Are you going into cities where ICE cars are charged an entry fee or even banned? I think right now if you're a two car house, your best bet is one of each (ICE and EV), as you cover fluctuations and avilability.

Any of those other brands you mentioned would need a new clutch by 147k as well, I'm amazed you're surprised to be honest.

It's on 147k miles. If that's the original clutch then it's lasted well, IMO. I wouldn't be as shocked as you are that a car of this age and mileage needs work done. Even mine on 65k has needed some work done on it, such is life when running cars between 15 and 22 years old... I feel old now.

I have often cited my own example as I do monitor the cost of my cars. My previous diesel Karoq averaged 45.4 mpg over 36K miles. (https://www.fuelly.com/car/skoda/karoq/2018/luckypants/793739) - a good comparison to my ID.4 I have now. It was serviced once in that time for £256, insurance was £320 pa and VED was included in the lease - which was £480. Before covid we were doing about 15K a year. At current fuel prices here (£1.85 p/litre) the fuel cost is 18.5p/mile. The ID.4 is on PCP and costs £580 pcm. Insurance is £300 pa and VED is £0. No servicing yet, but I expect to be in the region of £150. Over 17K miles my average charge cost per mile 5.48p/mile (sorry in a spreadsheet so cannot share). This includes free charges at Tesco etc but I get nothing not available to any EV driver and I don't take the **** (e.g could have granny charged at the cottage when on holiday but chose to pay at the rapid 2 miles away). The £100 difference in monthly cost is more or less offset by the cheaper cost per mile, making the cars broadly similar in cost to run / own. If we take an average 1000 mile month, I save £120 but spend £100 more on monthly (This is how I justified the high purchase price of an EV to myself, cos £580 a month is crazy!) These figures meant I was able to get an EV for all the reasons of low emissions without really paying through the nose. I'd like to replace the Citigo with electric, but the figures no where near stack up for a low use vehicle.

Didn't say it literally, but he/she told someone to stay away from buying a car because of earlier ones having issues. That to me sounds like he/she is saying the car will have issues and to stay away from it for that reason, when the car could very well be trouble free. I'm not denying the issues just because I have not experienced them, I'm just surprised when people tell strangers to explicitly stay away from something like that, especially since the person who said it is driving an early MY20 car, the ones with the most issues. In newer production cars, the issues have been mostly ruled out already.

Groupon was or had a recharge deal with ATS for under £40.

Home charging is still at 7.5p/kWh for cheapest EV focused tariff. This still gives ~3p per mile cost. Diesel at £1.80 per liter still translate to ~15p per mile for me based on my previous lifetime average of £1.23 per liter and getting 10p per mile. As long as you can charge at home, it's still much cheaper driving EV's. Remembering there's also less service cost and tax-free emission zone benefits. But for purchase price, it's not looking good. I think the chip shortage have worsened the price differences. The demand for EV's doesn't seem to be disappearing, it seems to be ever increasing, which is not good for prices or even just incentive to design smaller cheaper EV's.

Price definitely matters, but trade-in for the Aygo is good too, had two quotes of over £13,000 for the Aygo so I'd actually get a tiny bit of cash!

https://youtu.be/FIMi9isDrX0 Try and watch, should be easy enough to follow F40 as mentioned, and 30Amp fuse Can be brought from local motor factor, should be plenty of places to buy.

Change your garage then. Yes, you'd have to change the tyre pressure(s) and reset the TPMS, but that's all.

It has been a long time until I post something. I did cancel my order, and I am waiting for my advanced payment return. I did found another Octavia, it is brand new MY23, it's black and have around 4K € of more additional equipment from one that I did order. That one was ordered last year and buyer cancel order 2 month ago, and this one was finished a month ago. I did check dot on tires and they are Good Year (not sure which model) but dot is 22/2023 so less then two months, buyer was unlucky since when he did cancel order, car get in production. This is one which was not waiting for parts half-completed. So I am very happy with that I will post pictures once when I will pick it up. Maybe this or next week, we are working on lease ATM. Can't wait for activation in the app 🥳

Lovely old lady decided to T bone me today lol Doors- bent Sill - bent B pillar - bent Both quarters - bent Rear wheel - bent Rear suspension - bent Rear bumper - smashed Taillight - smashed

My point to explain was that during the SW update I do believe it gets reset and maybe needs to have features switched on by factory. The software is capable of everything, and depending on what features you should have, the factory has to send codes into the radio. Anyhow best of luck with tomorrow's phone call.

Luckily it’s not to bad, it’s been dripping on to the rubber mat which is lipped

I have eventually found a repair kit for the superb drivers door loom that has (should have) enough wires for the sound system L&K superb. Cost is £30 from the auction site and comes from France. Cable length [mm]: 400.0mm Number of conductors: 28 conductors Number of threads: 28 Cable section [mm²]: 0.50 to 2.50 mm2 flexible silicon cables with the socket end connectors pre crimped. Bag of different sized crimps for the repair ends. ebay link rarely work after time so as well as the page i will include search terms. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334424640004 Repair Kit Beam Of Door for Citigo Fabia Rapid Roomster Superb Yeti 28 wires skoda loom repair kit

Ahem... I think you will find it is a thinking man's Audi. See that's great in principle, but at nearly 150k, anything will **** out it's clutch. I've been looking at an 80k mile Nissan Almera that is needing some small work, but nothing major. Same (ish) age as the Fabia but will still require upkeep. Regardless of what you buy at this age/budget, it may last a long time or go boom in minutes. It's a gamble. I sympathise with being upset that the clutch has failed. However, it's possible on any car really at that mileage or depending on previous owners' driving habits.

that is very frustrating, i suppose in terms of the vehicle - for it age and milage its done very well. but in terms of "your purchase" its pretty ****. the unfortunate part of purchasing cars in that age bracket is you could have a fully dealer / genius mechanic mollicoddled car that has never wanted for anything and its still a gamble that you get 4 more yrs of no hassle or it eats itself the day after you buy it. and that across the board with all manufacturers. i would more say Skoda is the audi the day after the pretty dress outing, hangin around in trackies and flipflops eating leftovers and no make up on.... a better image of reality i dont mean that in any kind of sexist way..

Already been raised by the OP in this thread: I'll lock this thread and ask we keep the discussion in one place rather than multiple threads.

I think the cosmetics would merely be wind deflectors, mud flaps, and maybe a couple of interior changes too so nothing expensive but I appreciate what you're saying about saving the money incase of any issues. I definitely need to do my research on intakes and the pros and cons. Thanks for the reply, definitely going to take it into consideration!

I've got mine from herttoniemi. Had better deal than Airport, unfortunately. Herttoniemi is not close to me. Guys, remember to update the excel https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17h4myLSMpZ3dohgDJX25mkOhKLbyepEaeEeYcA3AqFY/edit#gid=0

Ease of manufacturing Rather than making 8 different hardware of each combination: - no assists - high beam assist (HBA) only - lane assist (LA) only - traffic sign recognition (TSR) only - HBA and LA - HBA and TSR - LA and TSR - HBA, LA and TSR They can fit one of the following 3 and turn the different options on or off depending on the car spec via software. - no front camera - 'lowline' camera capable of HBA only - 'highline' camera capable of HBA, LA and TSR The vRS got LA as standard so gets the 'highline' camera which means it's relatively easy to enable the other two features. Things are changing to make it harder. For example somewhere around 2019/20 the 'highline' camera was updated so it's no longer trivial to enable TSR. It now requires an appropriate licence/FeC/SWaP code which Skoda/VAG don't sell separately. New cars have SFD (Vehicle Diagnostic Protection) so you need a code from VAG to unlock a module before it'll accept any changes...

This time of the year even my heavy footed offspring gets 4 miles per kWh and I tend to get closer to 5 miles per kWh. Just signed up for Octopus Go renewal so 7.5p per kWh will be my new price in mid September but hoping the VAT is removed by then so it will be about 7p per kWh so still less than 2p per mile for us in the Zoe. Octopus giving £10 in free Octopus Juice credit so it looks like I might finally try the CCS port to get that free power.

ESP = Electronic Stability Program Monitor various sensors in the car to modulate brakes and such to keep you on the road say if you loose it going into a corner. TC = Traction Control, more about when you accelerate hard and your wheels start to spin. I think this one will reduce engine power and/or apply brakes to keep your wheels from spinning. EDIT: Here are the official VAG wordings/explanations Electronic Stability Programme This system prevents the vehicle from skidding by selectively intervening in the brake and engine management systems. The following abbreviations are used also: - ASMS (Automatic Stability Management System), - DSC (Dynamic Stability Control), - DDC (Driving Dynamic Control), - VSA (Vehicle Stability Assist) and - VSC (Vehicle Stability Control). Traction Control System This system prevents the driven wheels from spinning, e.g. on ice or gravel, by intervening in the brake and engine management systems.

So now Petrol / Diesel is still between 170-210 pence around the UK and 135 pence a litre is a wish and a dream. There are calculators to give the comparison of an ICE vs EV and maybe someone can link one. Business / Commercial users / drivers and EV / ICE comparisons will be a totally different kettle of fish. PS That average new Petrol car 49.2 mpg in 2019 looks like rubbish to me.

Hiya, Thanks a lot for the reply, really appreciate it. I'm fairly confident checking the car over when i go, it was more the on paper details i had to think through just now. I am going to try and view it tonight/tomorrow night after work. I have been sent pictures of it and it looks in great condition. I have read these can do for more miles than is on it currently, if well maintained so the service history will be interesting to see. Its a friend of a friend, so the seller is known and not a hooligan etc. I have checked the MOT history and its only had a couple of very minor things come up: Nearside Rear Child Seat fitted not allowing full inspection of adult belt () Offside Rear Child Seat fitted not allowing full inspection of adult belt ()

Slightly different method of removing the glovebox here as well where the guy explains a bit more in depth the process. This video helped me a lot when I was trying to hardwire a dashcam. https://youtu.be/ZD2rOX7xx4A

Enjoy the car. Look where the coolant is now when cold. Check the oil when cold and then again at operating temp then you know how it was at hand over. Check the tyre pressures suit your driving and reset the TPMS. Check the tools and security socket are all there.

Is there a part number for that bit on your invoice? Good on you for coming back with the solution to the problem. 👍

Why not try the experiment I suggested, no cost in that? I'll explain why I've suggested it once you tell me what happens, or doesn't.

PPD isn't derivable at all, i have read couple of reports i felt standard DCC springs also too soft, on speeds 120kmh+ car were dancing away from the road if mode were left in `Comfort` then i searched for stiffer, click on link i posted above, there are part codes and way how to find stiffness without lowering(huge lowering)

I have the classic 1Z2 on my PR codes, but no mention of any tank whatsoever! I apparently left factory without one. PR codes.txt

Maybe true, but maybe this is just an exception and that is why this story made the paper. For Skoda they could make an encyclopedia, that is why you wont find it in the paper. I know, but what is too much is just too much. People are waiting 15 months or even more. Ludicrous! 🤯

If some oil has helped, perhaps it went down so low it sucked a bit of air in. A bleed will probably be the best thing to do first, as you've read it's common too.

^^^ garage must be clueless to make a statement like that or are just plain lazy! Would suggest you go else where.

It seems to be fixed, I can logon again. Thanks for the replies.

Just because some cars have some issues doesn't mean every car has them. My Mk4 has been trouble free.

reality is, if they want to get in your vehicle, theyll get in your vehicle.. just like if someone reeeeallly wants to get into your house, theyll get in.

Try Glypton leather cleaner / care products. Work as well as any other but give the smell of real leather like no other.

Current delivery estimate mid of next week #yay edit: month -> week

You decide.

They last about a month for £30 form ebay Look at this post a lot of info