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If you're seeing a lot of random, seemingly unrelated issues my first port of call would be to check the battery and if it's very old or weak then to change it for a new one. A lot of sensors really don't like it when batteries are on their last legs or flat and start coming up with errors. Once you've done that (If it's weak as it's coming up to winter anyway), then clear the fault codes and see what comes back. Those will then be the ones to concentrate on. The wastegate solenoid and the turbo are entirely possible to be related, but if the battery is making the solenoid sensor report bad data the turbo will cut out too thinking there is an error that might not be there.

For the power steering, it's probably a good idea to have a very close look at the strip fuse for it in the fusebox on top of the battery. These can crack, sometimes almost invisibly, leading to intermittent connection of the main power feed to the pump motor. In your car it's in position 5 of the strip fuses (1-6, left to right as viewed from in front of the car looking into the engine bay). Exact fault numbers may be useful if you still have the info, or the OBD tool?

I replaced My Fabia III with a Fabia IV SEL DSG a few months ago, and have been regretting it, because the front suspension has been bottoming at 20mph on speed humps and potholes when it clearly shouldn't. It took ages to get the local Skoda main dealer (who didn't supply the car) to inspect it but they have solved the issue: all Fabias leave the factory with packing blocks above and below the front struts to limit the front suspension motion and to avoid the front undertray grounding. In my case. the supplying dealer had failed to remove them at PDI .... So if you experience anything similar, check for bright pink packing pieces under the gaiter around the front struts!

A friend of mine is a mechanic, with all the relevant diagnostic kits, softwares and stuffs for the vehicles he looks after. He showed me how things like OBD-II and all the little dongles that work with phone apps are pretty useless overall - They will give you codes, but they'll be the generic fault codes and won't offer VAG-specific information. At best, they're a starting point for figuring out the problem. Cheap is a relative term too, as the proper kit could end up saving you a lot more money on wasted purchases following inaccurate diagnoses. It's also why he doesn't charge people for just chucking a computer on their car and running a few quick scans while he goes to make a cup of tea!!

I have no idea why people automatically turn it off when you can just do it if the location / junctions means you might need to. But then that is when there is an Automatic / DSG , Autohold & e-Brake. I drove with Stop / Start for 3 years and 44,000 miles. Did the car no harm and it was good for those that live in the Grid Lock areas. But then it was a suitable battery for a TDI.

get the flock out of here 😁

That will be a Liz Truss Tribute edition with increased maximum speed. There needs to be like a VED Band introduced for EV's sold / registered in the UK. More expensive if they exceed such and such a performance level 0-60 or 70 mph but can not do so efficiently. The UK can introduce an' Efficiency test where in UK average temperatures an EV loaded to revenue weight @ their Maximum Allowable UK speed they must be able to achieve at least 3.5 miles per kWh.

Moll. I had one on mine. Stop/start ceased to function after two years. Car failed to start after less than three. Replaced under warranty by Skoda Assist.

i did buy 18 rims Luxon original Škoda, just i can't tested it beause i don't have car yet ;( to tell you have are they on road

Firstly, can you update to the latest VCDS version, it can be downloaded here: https://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/download/current.php Secondly, can you post an autoscan as the files you uploaded aren't one. There is a youtube video on this post showing how to: https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/101/

We're getting used to it! Perhaps we need a new thread? "George's Charging Rants"......

Well the Oil & Filter will come up because of when last done & if on Fixed or Variable Servicing. So was that 1 year , 9,400 miles or 2 years, 18,000 -20,000 miles ago. **Servicing should be Servicing & Maintenance / Preventative Maintenance, Pre Winter, and should include Body Inspections for the Corrosion Warranty.** Not just Engine OIl & Filter Changes. That is an OIl Service. *** Haldex oil change and cleaning is important.*** Servicing will be depending on what has been done before and what is due or recommended. That will be Inspections and reports if you just get a Service. You have Haldex so that is due each 3 years / 30,000 miles for a Service. Pollen / Cabin Filter each 2 years. Brake Fluid was @ 3 years then each 2, so when was that changed or checked. Air Filter each 6 years, it should be checked each year and changed when needed. So location location location and how used and how much checking you do yourself. Bottom Menu was how Dealerships were up to 2020 on Interim & Major Servicing, 2021 Skoda UK changed to the Oil & Inspection Services & Extended Scope. You only get extra stuff done like Haldex, Water Pump / Cam Belt, Brake Fluid. Fuel Filter, Pollen or Air Filter by paying for that. *Get brales Serviced.* Dealer Servicing might not have the wheels off for many years.

One advantage of the nights drawing in is I can photograph both the sunset and Moon on the same walk👍

Hello! Thought to make a thread about my new car. From 2014 to 2022 july I drove with SAAB 9-5 Estate Aero. Time goes on and needs change and so I decided to go forward. My searches began early spring and recognition hit me in june - It's when you sit in the car and you understand "this is it" 😆 At the moment I feel like you have a button phone and now you have to use smart phone - so much to discover. Color is candy white, interior black leather, webasto, canton, 9.2" Columbus touch screen, parking camera. Mileage: 105814 km I have realized that there is VCDS, where you can enable/disable etc - pure pandora box and still doing research, what to do my initial thoughts on what to do: Disable START/STOP - Enable rear DRL - Enable refuel quantity - Enable cornering lighting - Enable traffic sign recognition - Enable trunk closing from inside (not VCDS, it's VCP) Enable High Beam Assist - I have lane assist and HBA should be available ? What more do enable/disable ? So far I have done: 04.07 - Key battery change. Replaced by Panasonic 2032 09.07 - Updated navi maps (ver: V03959801JP0166 ECE 2018) --> (ver: V03959818H 0197 ECE 2022/2023) - Maps taken based on VIN from the portal: [url=updateportal.skoda-auto.com]updateportal.skoda-auto.com[/url] - Updating via USB took 35 min. 14.07 - The wind deflector on the left side of the rear grill has been fixed. When taken apart, it turned out that the so-called plastic fork had simply moved out of place. More information with a solution on the [url=https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/426372-rear-passenger-air-vent-part-number/page/2/][b][u]Briskoda[/u][/b][/url] page. 15.07 - Rear wiper blade replaced - Valeo Silencio Rear VR267 15.07 - Bought Škoda Helios Triton 17" rims for the winter (code: 3V0601025A / 8Z8 silver) + Nokian Hakkapeliitta 7 215/55/R17 98T XL studded tires were included. Used to having tires on separate rims depending on the season, convenient. 22.07 - Rear main oil seal replacement Things to do: Rear brake pads - About 30% left. Wireless Carplay dongle ? I really like how Carplay via USB works, but thinking to buy dongle to use it wirelessly - any suggestions ? Sorry for my bad english, it's not my native

I have a quicklynks t55 VAG specific tool from gendan that I used successfully on our 2007 octavia. The cost was about £60 but it can access all modules and includes VAG specific codes etc. It was cheap and cheerful but worked for me, although it doesn't want to talk to our Kodiaq so is probably now surplus to requirements.

..the battery in mine was "iffy" for the last 2 years of it's life, never seemed to get much above 12 volts even after charging, (started at around 11.5), but it never failed to start even when left for 2 weeks while on holiday...my money is on the battery, (paticularly if it's the same age and make as my original Moll battery).

Thanks to all for your replies I was aware of the various parameters it would need to stop then start safely, but hadn't considered the battery, that said, the day after my post it worked perfectly!! AKA Sod's law! No real reason to suspect the battery as it always starts easily and have seen no aged battery symptoms, was going to check the batt V today but Mrs put the thing in the garage so it'll have to wait till its out again, then 1 to 2 hours to let the Volts stabilise. Personally I see it as software related so unless the battery is showing less then, say 12.7v after 2 hours with engine off, I'll take that route. As a newbie on here must say impressed with all my kind replies. Ian

Yes, there is definitely an option to stop the rear wiper coming on when the front wipers are in use. I can't remember the exact location in the settings but it's definitely there as this used to bug me so I disabled it. If no one replies tonight with the details I'll take a look in the settings tomorrow morning.

Well to my mind for all the bells and whistles of the MK4 I prefer to keep my MK3 especially since I don’t pay road tax as it is a 2016. I have read a lot of bad things on this forum about ropey software too. I can continually update the sat nav to an SD card as well whereas you have to pay for OTA updates on the MK4.

@Pol04 Do you think the media player is reading the file tags and using that for navigation? Given you have I presume a folder called 'Billy Joel Greatest Hits Vol 1' and it's probably tagged as just 'Greatest Hits' Also where you have 'unknown artist' makes me think it's tagging issue in each file

The main issue you will have is that the levelling system uses different motors, so the manual level wont work out of the box, and you don't have the self levelling system hardware there either on a vrs without a retrofit. I appreciate that Irish law may be different, but you need some kind of motor in place just to stop the projector bouncing around free inside the lamp body as you go over bumps etc. Even with the kufatec adaptors, that will only get the lamps working, but you may find the dip beam goes out when on main beam rather than staying illuminated as with the halogen setup, so you will lose light output. The proper factory sytem requires an extra feed from the headlamp switch to properly sort that issue. Those of us that have fitted them have either retrofitted all the levelling hardware, or as people like me have done, we have modified the lighting looms and the lamp bodies to allow for use of the manual levelling motors. Either way, you can't really call it a plug and play upgrade without some fairly serious work time on the job. Hope it helps.

On a vRS they were a very expensive option. I think they were around an £800 optional extra. And, decent bulbs are around £70-£100 EACH! Mine came factory, but it took forever to find one. As for retrofitting them, yes it can be done and you'll need some loom adaptors from KUFTEC. They're around 60 euros. The xenon units are around £150/£200 for a pair, sometimes more. It's a lot of money to chuck at lights. But, as stated above, you need to check your laws. The cars with xenons auto adjust by leveling sensors on the suspension arms. Without them, you'll end up blinding people with a back end heavy car (if you've got stuff in the boot).

Denmark.

Thanks for all the input, I alreadt tried to get nearer to the fan, diffucult to get access to. Lets see how the loom looks first The loom looks as old as the car and standard as well. Really really strange.

It's official! The Scirocco will be going on track for the first time on the 17th of September!

The posted 3 errors are from 08. Only used 01 to test the fan. Errors 00705 & 00706 are not related to the 00898 (my humble opinion). Please keep in mind, the aircon did work (intermittently). So I’ll check the loom again. I hope this resolves 00898. And considering “B” should be able to ask fan to operate, I think currently climatronic is not able to ask for forced/additional coolingfrom fan. I therefore think I should try a C or D unit in order to resolve 00705 & 00706. Im 100% sure I do not have the fan relay unit :). Loom is identical to schematics. P.S. VW has 40 years to arrange the additional 2 months/year. I suppose we have to wait and see.

In the implementation where there is a separate fan control module, the engine ECU doesn't have any (direct) dealings with it though. Inputs are either from radiator thermoswitch(es) or HVAC module. No data to it from anywhere. The version the OP has, without fan control module, the converse is true, all control is direct from engine ECU on the blue/yellow wire, as I understand it. (PWM signal, I think, from memory) It'll be nice to learn from this thread, assuming the problem does get resolved. I have confidence that Ruben will triumph.

Thank you

That's a headache, as assuming it works, you need an OrgID (organisation ID) to get a licence. A hoop you won't be able to jump through. And diagnostic will be PAYG at 7Euros an hour.

Of course less rubber is less comfy. I've got the 225/40/19 and i would not go for smaller. Have to admit though, that DCC helps alot. For winter i have 225/45/18.

Yeah had a look on eBay last night and the older unlimited VIN cables still sell for a premium price of about £200, madness unless you compare it to the HEX-V2 unlimited. I have a spare one here as I now have ODIS capability (dealer or independant software) it get's used on my car as it's familiar and faster to get to what I want.

100% sure my car does not have the relaybox on the left chassisleg. It has the PCB in the fanmotor. As per attached plan (my car doesn’t have the second fan) is how my car is set up.

I think you only need to register the swap $99 if you want tech support from Ross Tech usually. The cable will just plug in and work.

I don't think that's correct. As far as i know all versions can be upgraded to 1896, but in case you have older version now, they first need to upgrade to some other version (17xx?), and only after that they can upgrade to 1896. There was a picture of TPI concerning issues fixed by 1896. IF you can find it, just go to your dealership and report one of those issues (for example ACC not allowing you to overtake on the right side, or sat-nav not remembering your favorite destinations). This way they will have to upgrade according to TPI.

..I had this problem when I first got my Yeti, (2015 model, 2 years old and low mileage). The SS hardly ever seemed to work except after a (very) long journey. Did not really bother me as I think SS is a waste of space and doesnt really achieve anything. However after a few more years I needed to replace the battery and our local indy advised me that the battery I had in the car (from new), was considered a "bad make", (forget the make), that was fitted to this era of Yeti. I fitted a new battery and the SS then worked nearly every time I stopped, (very annoying as I had to keep remembering to turn it off!).

Gendan https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VAGUSB.html sell a cable for use with VCDS-Lite but it is only K line not Canbus and yours being a 2006 it will want a Canbus capable cable for full diagnosis ability I have a full Hex v2 unlimited based in Milton Keynes but at the moment I'm without transport as my Treg engine is in the process of being repaired

Check each bulb is actually fitted correct when cooled off, and daytime 😆 Some person may have chucked a bulb in and not secured it, if they are all seated correct, then you can make adjustments. Image for MY09+ or RS/Scout from MY10+ Dipped and main beam adjusment

Just ordered one of these. Most of the USB-C options seem far too long ie no equivalent to the USB A mini flash drive https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09R2C9DH9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My 2022 1.5TSI sounds the same, It is high pressure injector noise.

Covered chargers, very nice. But what's that Ioniq doing using AC?

Update to this topic; I have started putting my mobile in the tray in front of the gear selector and right under the heater/aircon controls. During the last few journeys in the car, Android Auto has been solid with no disconnections at all. I used to just leave my phone in my pocket and didin't think that would be an issue as the distance from my pocket to the Amundsden unit when I am driving is not exactly huge but apparently it seems to have made a huge difference to connectivity. Hopefully this will be permanent.

I've got a nice update: - this morning I checked the Skoda App (as I've been doing every morning in my coffee time) and the car miraculously showed up! - some 30 minutes later the dealer writes to me saying the car is ready for shipment and is waiting for the next transport from the factory - whenever that might be... So to summarize: - car ordered @ Aug.23rd 2021 - VIN received @ July 13th 2022 - VIN accepted by SkodaApp @ Aug.23rd 2022 - car shows up in SkodaApp @ Aug.31st 2022 (the same day the dealer notified the car is completed)

Taken last week in the south of France after a 900 mile drive 😀

Welcome Kas, There are many levels to cleaning your car, from basic sponge with fairy liquid in a bucket 😬 to full on detailing. How far down the rabbit hole you are prepared to go!? The best question I can ask, is what kind of finish are you looking for, and if you have time weekly to maintain it. You could get the car polished up to make each panel look like it came from factory and freshly unwrapped, then with some sensible practices like "2 bucket method" maintain the finish yourself, and never take it to a automatic scratch and clean car wash. The middle ground could be using some products with "fillers" to hide most of the imperfections and then clean as above 2BM from then on if you don't want to go down the route of getting it machine polished. Here is a red (paint that fades to pink!) corsa I helped polish for a friend Before you can see a load of wonderful scratches from years of bad washing Now after machine polishing it's 95%+ improved at least

For clarity, I guess this is just an expression right!?! 🤪 You may have a broken wire in the door loom causing you trouble, cannot say for certain, but seems a likely suspect given the sequence you mentioned.

Hi. Although I've answered your PM I'll also post it here incase it's useful to others. It's the the pillar between the rear window and the very rear (boot) window.

Treated myself to a small model (1:43) of Skoda Karoq in Velvet Red!

Same issue here, car is VW Polo 1.2-2002 (9n). I soldered all those connections, and Immo works now ok! Thanks everybody, very good topic!

Yep! Disgusting that they don't seem to see that this is dangerous though and prioritise a fix.

was cold this morning (frost) and the brake pad warning light stayed illuminated on starting (even though both wires soldered together at wheel end). Usually subsequent trips throughout the day do not have the light illuminated. so I went ahead with the earth bridge discussed above (joining pins 1 and 8) on the 8 pin connector behind cluster, took about 5 mins. Used some heavy duty solid copper house wire as it fitted firmly alongside the pin bodies in the back of the connector. Light now stays off, but it always did after first start, so real test will be tomorrow morning. if it works, we'll see how long it takes me to remove this temporary fix and do properly , and if it doesn't work then I'll have to look at the PCB connections again...