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Early start this morning

Had confirmation that mine was built this week. Vrs tdi Estate. Ordered mid Dec 21. My Mrs ordered a Skoda Scala Monte Carlo 1.0tsi 6 weeks back and that was also built last week. So we may end up with 2 cars delivered about the same time. 😂

Exactly that. If the machined face is dirty and doesnt seal, soot makes its way up the side of the glowplug and stops at the threads. But at this point the soot literally seizes the glow plugs solid in the bore. Exact same thing happens with diesel injectors. If the threads were tapered like you suggest the soot would be right up to the threads around the side of the glowplug and would never come out again after a few thousand miles.

Touring Wellington’s op shops! Rusty is running way better than it ever has since fitting the new fuel pump and filters. Not hesitating, not spluttering at low revs, warm starting quicker. Not threatening to stall when lifting off at low speed. Very happy!

New paper air filter to replace the ancient K&N. That last clip is a bugger to get on! I ended up using two screwdrivers and a pry bar through the headlight hole. One skinned knuckle and only one dropped screw 😃

Almost threw you into a hedge and having to fight the steering wheel? Really? On the rare occasion that I forget to turn lane assist off it gives me a gentle bit of resistance on the steering wheel, I certainly never have to “fight the steering wheel” and it’s never even come close to “throwing me into a hedge”. Its a slight annoyance I’ll agree, but not in a million years would I describe it as dangerous🤔

Remember the Superb was always designed more as a comfort limo, than a sports car. If you want a car with sharp handling, it’s not really one to choose

Which tyres have you got? That will play a big part on steering feedback. it all depends how much you spend/how badly you want to improve it! These are a few upgrades that you can do after the tyres: Front Anti- roll Front Strut Brace Uprated Poly Bushes Camber adjustment kit

Hi Kalum, welcome to the forum. I'd guess that's around 500ml in 4000 miles - not particularly high use. How often do you check the oil level?

This is what I did.

Just as well i loved and still do the car, which was supplied by my local Dealer 1 mile away. They gave up the franchise, now they are only a KIA Dealership. That latest fiasco was with Arnold Clarks, they are well known for taking the pith with their Health Checks and even more so with EVHC's. The Service was not completed at 8,000 miles because the EV Tech was not available even though the booking was arranged a month before. The Service Indicator not reset, then showed for 18 months, the 2 Recalls were 18 months without being done and one was a Safety Critical Brake Module recall. It never burned through discs, they were red rusted through lack of use. An EV with regen not needing braking. Then disabled drivers with one foot or no foot, hand controls might never brake or brake seldom with ICE or EV Autos / DSG's. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/485497-vauxhall-corsa-2020-fault-maybe-faults-in-first-6-weeks/page/6 http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/489573-winter-roads-ice-snow-and-wet-or-dry-driving-in-an-ev PS My car has lost miles off the mileometer, while doing Over the Air Updates, going to Factory Settings, while they have had it plugged in or someone trying to reset the Service Indicator. Likely back to 'In transit' settings. They can not blame me, i never touched it. I might extend the lease next August, it looks like a low mileage car even though it lost 12,500 miles at 25,000 miles, then another 10,000 miles. That is going to be interesting with Ex Motability EV's from Stellantis (PSA) It has actually done 37,000 miles now, went over 37,000 miles yesterday. I know because i have to charge the car and have my GPS tracker stats etc. Top, what it was showing a few weeks back. Bottom, is right now and what the car dash is showing as the mileage.

Vauxhall/Stellanits are renowned for their so called safety checks (between services), as well I know having paid for servicing myself whilst my previous Astra was within their extended warranty period. Modern Vauxhalls burn through discs & pads quickly, I'd say on average probably every 4 years needing a full set of pads & discs to be replaced. I've also replaced plenty myself over previous years, Unable to now due to health reasons & I'm getting older. .

Yes the V5 states one previous owner, but I know it was ex mobility & have other receipts too within the previous owners name. Just had a look at the previous history, was on the Skoda flexi servicing & during it's first mot with Skoda (Sinclair Garages), it had a brake fluid change, too. I purchased it 8 months later, then had a major service done on it, inc plugs by Skoda. Even though it wasn't due a major service at 3.8 years old. Thanks for the info.

BoxerBoy has a Kodiaq which have bigger outside diameter tyres. For example, 215/65R17 tyres on the Kodiaq have much bigger sidewalls than 215/55R17 tyres on the 2WD Karoq or even the 225/55R17 tyres on the 4WD Karoq. The Kodiaq is also a bigger car than the Karoq, so it's like comparing a Superb MK3 with an Octavia MK3, ie. it's not a direct comparison.

The Karoq 4WD size tyres are more comfortable than the Karoq 2WD size tyres because they are bigger, ie. 225/60R16 instead of 215/60R16, 225/55R17 instead of 215/55R17, 225/50R18 instead of 225/45R18, etc. Take a look at the alloy rim sizes on "skoda eshop cz" https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/hlinikove-disky/c/alloyWheels?sort=priceAsc&q=%3AscoreDesc%3AcarType%3AKaroq%2B%282017%2B%29&show=Page# You will see from the above link that the standard Karoq rim sizes are: 225/60R16 6Jx16 ET43 very comfortable 225/55R17 7Jx17 ET45 quite comfortable 225/50R18 7Jx18 ET45 not so comfortable 225/45R19 8Jx19 ET45 uncomfortable If you are interested in ride comfort avoid the 19" option. For best steering precision the 6Jx16 ET43 rim is a bit narrow for the relatively wide 225/60R16 tyre size but does improve ride comfort. Perhaps look at a wider 7Jx16 ET45 rim (from the Superb MK2 and Yeti) for the Karoq 4WD 225/60R16 tyre option. 225/55R17 and 225/50R18 fitted to 7J rims will be far more comfortable than 225/45R19 fitted to relatively wide 8J rims.

What tint has the car got already that you are adding too. Surely the Tinting operative showing you what they can offer before doing the job will be the best way of knowing what you think is right.

Nothing that will work well in a lamp designed for a halogen bulb.

1 Previous Keeper. In the name of an adult if the person getting PIP was a child. *Motability Finance Owned the car, Motability are not the Registered keeper, a childs name can not be on the V5. If the person leasing has not got a driving licence their name is not on the V5, it will be one of the Named Drivers.) So 1 previous keeper who could be like me, an Ex Motability car just like the Motability cars i have had and do have. 13 now i seem to remember. Mine are Never Raced or Rallied, well not on public roads or where there are cameras. The Car should have had a Full Service before hand back. Then at Hand Back the Sales Staff getting it in Photograph it, do the description & that is then the Advert / Info on the BCA auction that the trade buy the car from. When i have a Motability Car i tell the Dealership to do the AC service that they would tell a private customer would be required. The Brake Fluid Change at 3 years should have been done with Motability cars from the VW Group at the service pre 3 years. PS. Cars getting handed back and getting collected from the dealership are not returned to Factory Settings. That means, Steering Assist or Brake Assist might be set to a drivers needs if the driver was disabled or had infirmities. Also a car can still be remapped if someone had done that during the lease, and sometimes people do, family members or whoever had the car.

This is something new, that they started installing only this year to some cars. We have 1.5 TSI. They messed up naming, as 1.5 TSI is EA211 EVO, but it's NOT 1.5 TSI EVO Anyway they were installing DADA even after WLTP certification. I had DADA engine with GPF in 2018 Ateca. I think they started installing DPCA in new generation cars like O4, Golf 8 and Leon MK4.

Regarding the carbon swarf those of us old enough to recall regularly decoking (I used to do several a week) or rebuilding engines will know from the formation of carbon on the piston crowns that flakes of carbon are constantly detaching and passing through the exhaust as the thickness builds up, you can see them ejected glowing red hot from a straight through exhaust system on dyno runs. Even aluminium swarf that evades removal when helicoiling spark plug threads does not do any noticeable damage.

I was in the same dilemma as you replacing the front grill with a new one from Sportline. Wrapped mine at a professional studio with a piano black PPF. Looks a factory job and the the grill itself is protected from stone chips.

The threads are not tapered and never have been on glow plugs. Generally a M10x1.0 thread, no difference in pitch or width. They seal on a machined face.

You don't give your engine code but I remember a thread on here about confusion on which fuel filter to fit. There were two type/makes, one of which caused something similar if I remember correctly. Do a google search using this forum as the first search terms followed by your own query. Perhaps this reply will jog the memory of others.

I think this piece was broken before I removed the panel as there was a slight buzzing on particular roads at particular engine speed, it would disappear if you push against the door panel, basically I was going to order a new cable but managed to fix it diy and is still works and doesn't make any noise, so all good! I managed to apply CTK Car Audio Vibration Proofing Sound Deadening Premium to all the doors, under the boot and under rear seat, the car did become a little quitter but mostly overall noise disappeared and feels like there are less vibration which is what you expect!

Thank you every one for the advice. I have been spared the agony as sis-in-law has booked Fab in for cam belt change and has added it to the charge sheet.

This is further to my response of last Thursday. I should have added that my post on Briskoda that I referred to was dated July 29th and it started with the words I need help.... Thanks.

It has now arrived and is booked in for next Saturday morning, so fingers crossed I might actually get full use of the car back again 😌

Correct, I was involved in a case last year where the Registered Keeper was most definitely NOT the Legal Owner at the time, so requesting the V5C for proof of ownership is BS.

I'm not sure it can be permanently switched off, but the sensitivity can be easily adjusted in the Infotainment system. I set mine to it's lowest setting and so far (about 900 miles in) I've no issues.

When people say they have the same engine they might mean they have a 1.5 TSI ACT EVO. If it is the same as an early or later engine is what matters really. It is great when people have en engine that VW group develop from the R&D that paying customers did for them because they had to mess about to get them WLTP certificated. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/477291-15tsi-old-or-new-dada-dpca

Just a follow up: I've done now more than a thousand miles with the car with no problems at all. I've noticed that my previous oil consumption issue is gone, the oil level is still the same as when I've filled it after the repair. It could be the new valve stem seals or something else I've done when I've rebuild the engine. My fuel consumption is also better and I attribute this to thoroughly cleaning the nozzles of all injectors. I've since also passed the MOT with flying colors. The engine is running great and has lots of power. I have one nagging issue though, I keep getting one error every time I rev up the engine with little or no load: 000017 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake) P0011 - 000 - Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced) - MIL ON My first thought was the timing might be off by one dent but I've triple checked all the chain marks and position when I've assembled it back. I've then measured group 93 several times at different dates and I get excellent values: Group 093: Camshaft Adjustment Adaptation 760 /min Engine Speed (G28) 17.3 % Engine Load 18.0 % Engine Load 16.5 % Engine Load 0.88° Phase Position Bank 1 Intake 1.49° Phase Position Bank 1 Intake 1.44° Phase Position Bank 1 Intake The phase angle should be in the +/- 4° degrees interval and mine is even better so I'm not worried about the timing anymore. There might be a lot of other causes for the above error: - I have a new crankshaft sensor - the new chain was at least 1cm shorter than the old one (which elongated over time) - maybe camshaft timing control solenoid or valve are not working well (since the error comes back only when I rev the engine) For now (until the warm weather comes back next year) I think I'll just ignore the camshaft error.

I wasn’t sure about this but there’s a superb down the road that had one installed and it seemed to make a difference, not sure if it also had an alignment though. It does appear that as the flex is taken out of the suspension joints and chassis there is a clearer response in the wheel, especially just off center.

Made a difference for my FWD Superb. Not as much a difference as wat the rear swaybar does, but it's noticeable difference to steering feel and turn-in. I wasn't expecting much, but I was pleasantly surprised. This is the one I'm using, along with a Hardrace rear swaybar.

I own a 2019 plate Octavia 1.5t se with 22k on the clock & has a fsh. My brakes have never squealed at any speed. Even when my car drops to two cylinders I've never felt an "hiccup", occur, although mine is a dsg. It's not the smoothest engine I've ever driven from cold, but usually not too bad, probably down to the engine being tuned to it's emissions limits. I do find that this engine is very fuel efficient, though. I've averaged 48 mpg long term from it using e10 supermarket fuel. Happy with that, considering the size of my car. The metallic sound you are talking about, is it a type of resonating sound that only occurs at around 1700 to 2000rmp, as you are slowly accelerating? I have this sound occurring with my Octavia, but I'm not sure if it's engine/dash related. As I have to be driving for it to occur, I think this sound has probably been there from factory, as I'm the second owner, 1st being a mobility driver. I've owned my Octavia for only 2 months now.

Towards the front of the car. It's to open up the gap at the back as much as possible for the tool to slide in. A millimeter can make a big difference when there's little clearance 🙂 EDIT: From your previous picture, I can see that you broke the clip on the outer side (if that's your left door. That's exactly the one that was catching when I removed mine. The inside clip would somehow pop out without the need to pry it open.

Managed to find a Phoenix Orange 1.5tsi Sportline with Winter+ and Amundsen+ packs, one month old and £4000 less than new retail price so whats the point of waiting months? Pick it up next week and say goodbye to my Black 1.5tsi SEL. No more spending ages trying to locate my car in the car park!

Yes I apologise for that, I reflected and should have changed the wording to "some are being drawn.............." But I will repeat the message that the black marks (if the photo is actually of the OP's car) and their origin is neither here nor there as any garage would replace a dual mass flywheel with a clutch regardless of its condition and would replace both even at 30K miles if the box had to come out to replace the slave cylinder, they would not need to justify it. That they are doing so, and in doing so ignoring the actual fault makes me doubly suspicious of their competence and/or integrity.

IIRC the V5 specifically states that it is not proof of ownership.

They would not know you were the owner, only the Registered Keeper'. As a proof of address it is OK, but like a Passport, not proof you actually live there. Fair enough if they want to check your finances, and if a car has finance on it, but they can do that. But they are not getting that car. PS I do get their backs up when i mention this is their full time job, are they waiting on training, or is their trainer!

Then they have NO adjustment possible then, they are fixed at the factory they are assembled in 🤐 You can choose to change the bulbs for different, that might throw the beam further down the road depending on beam patterns.

Still the same screw's to adjust

I would say that the "less than a year long wait" club is more exclusive 😂

Well, after a break of a couple of years after I sold my Superb L&K Estate I have returned to the fold. Since selling the Superb I’ve mostly been running around in an Abarth (so from a huge exceptionally comfortable car I went to a tiny car with a harsh ride 🤔) but eventually have decided that 2 years with the Abarth is probably enough. But no regrets about having the Abarth, just wish I could have kept the Superb but I value my marriage more… Anyway, looking around at what might work to replace the Abarth but still have enough poke to be fun I kept coming back to Skoda and in particular the Octavia VRS 245 petrol. Ideally an estate but we have another car that could do estate car duties so a hatchback could work too. And DSG would be nice.. I’d tracked a new Velvet Red manual hatch down at Simpsons in Preston, about 2 hours from where I am. My plan was to go and see the car yesterday afternoon or maybe even today at some point. However I’d not really looked at the Mk IV VRS in the flesh so while I was out and about yesterday I called in speculatively at our local dealer to see if he had even a non VRS Octavia I could have a look at/sit in. If I didn’t like it for whatever reason, I could save myself a 4 hour round trip to Preston… As I walked in to the dealership at Bradford, with swmbo, right in the middle of the showroom was a new Magic Black VRS Estate 245 petrol with DSG. A cancelled order, the guy had got fed up with waiting and bought a used Kodiaq instead. Dealer continued with the order though on the basis it would sell easily or be put on as a demo. They’d had it less than 48 hours and had not put it even on internal stock availability yet…Sounds like fate to me! Suffice it to say a deal was struck and I pick the car up on 31 October, the Abarth is being taken in as PX. I’m very much looking forward to being part of the Briskoda community again (have to say the Abarth social scene/community is also fabulous. Although I’m old enough to be the father or even grandfather of the bulk of the guys and gals over there.👨🏻‍🦳🤣) I’ll be spending the intervening spare time trawling through even more YouTube VRS content! Until later

Some cracking cars and photos there

Is the engine turning at all - double check looking a crankshaft pulley - making sure it's not just failure due to lack of compression - eg potential cam belt issue! If engine has no compression it will spin quickly on the starter motor. Starter motor should engage with the ring gear turning the primary mass of the DMF and turn the engine - so should turn engine even if DMF is in trouble ie probably not that!

Just in case someone else suffers with this: Our car was recalled for pano roof drain issues and yet still suffered with this common problem. The spare wheel well filled with water, and I started removing trim at the bottom and working my way up... When I got to the roof lining, I found that the pano roof drain tube had a kink in it that blocked the water from draining away. I found a tight-fitting spring that I slid over the pipe that kept the pipe from bending and job done. (Apart from drying out then reassembling the boot trim and wheel well liner.) Hope this helps others with the same problem.

A little picture after a wash, decontamination and auto finesse Desire wax.

Found the answer myself.