Leaderboard

I wouldn't worry about it at all, that's only surface rust.

Exhaust going back on this evening. Another step closer. With regards to my question in the Fabia 1 general forum, I've ordered the following sticker for the slam panel. Tarty - yes very much so. It'll obviously look better than a photograph of a PC screen when it arrives.

Why do you think there was such a need to create low SAPS oils if combusted engine oil has a negligable effect on a DPF? Its like me saying that 1mg of arsenic is nothing compared to the 2000g of water I drink a day.

Good afternoon all. I have a very happy update with regard to my Germanic speaking non working head unit. After being minutes away from handing over £299 on Saturday night I thought I would read this thread again as one last try. I reached out to Varooom who asked me a couple of current software questions, I had SW 3984, he sent me a link to download and burn to disk. My IT chap at work did it, my laptop has no drive, rare these days eh. I installed it earlier, followed his instructions and 54 minutes later it was fully updated and me very very happy indeed, never thought hearing Coldplay would make me smile. It was still in German, i changed it back to English easily, everything was still on the HDD, nothing deleted. So from a write off to a totally free fix, with Varoooms help, in less than 24 hours. Thank you Varooom and to all that have advised. I love this site.

So, I had my DPF cleaned TWICE, because of the oil consumption. It works well for around 3-4 months, then it starts 'degrading' again. The burned oil doesn't produce the same type of soot that can be burned off ( as I'm told by the cleaning shop ). It's more like 'tar'. So, cleaning the DPF will be beneficial in the short run, but getting the oil consumption issue fixed should be a priority. I was booked in for piston changes this week, but all shops are out of stock for kolbenschmidt pistons. I will be able to give a more valuable input after I replace the pistons and clean the dpf for a third time and a few months will pass by.

Updated to-do list with items added from the invoice from Powerhaus. Amazing how much stuff you can get in a quattro.

Winter mode 🤪 Washed, polished, waxed and winter wheels mounted.

Fairy nuff, but they're still perfectly miscible fluids so mixing will happen quickly, just jump in the car and drive, honestly so much armchair overthinking going on in here!

I did a big thread (all info in first post) on swapping out the mid sized battery for a bigger case size...all info on case sizes & VCDS coding etc in this thread here:- How to retro-fit a bigger capacity battery to a Mk7 Golf | GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum Quotes:- If the car has "stop/start" auto engine shutoff & restart (not to be confused with KESSY which is keyless entry & start).....you need at least an EFB type & pefferably an AGM type. This is what VAG fit at the factory:- For cars WITH "Start/Stop” eco engine shut off (BlueMotion II):- 59Ah/320A (DIN), H5 size, EFB type 69Ah/360A (DIN), H6 size, EFB type 68Ah/380A (DIN), H6 size, AGM type H5 is the mid sized case, H6 is the biggest case size. Varta who make some of the batteries for VAG confirmed that standard battery case sizes are used to make the VW factory batteries, but that the Ah capacities are “special” to VW for those case sizes. Basically, VW are confusing us to make sure we end up buying a direct replacement battery from them when in fact a standard battery which is available from any auto parts supplier will fit & do the job!! So long as the case size is the same or bigger than your factory battery & the Ah/CCA is better then buy what every you can from any car parts supplier... VCDS coding required From the Main screen:- Select Control Module [Select] [19-CAN Gateway] Advanced Functions screen:- [Adaptions-10] New value choice screen:- Change the following four channels, inputting the relevant data about the new battery. IDE03256-MAS06105-Battery adaptation-Rated battery capacity IDE03256-MAS06106-Battery adaptation-Battery technology IDE03256-MAS06107-Battery adaptation-Battery manufacturer IDE03256-MAS06108-Battery adaptation-Battery Serial Number When you click on "Battery technology" (using VCDS 21.3.0) a drop down list appears with the following options (= actual meaning):- Wet = Standard Lead Acid Fleece = Standard A.G.M. Wickel6V Wickel12V Ultracap Gel = Standard Gel Lead Acid Lithium ions = Standard LiFePO4 EFB = Standard E.F.B. Binary - AGM = "Bipolar" A.G.M. type EFB+ = E.F.B. "Plus" type Not_assigned_10 Not_assigned_11 Not_assigned_12 Not_assigned_13 Not_assigned_14 Unknown According to various sources of information, including numerous car scans & threads on Ross-Tech, "Fleece" is for standard AGM batteries, "EFB" is for standard EFB batteries, & "Wet" is for standard lead acid batteries, as these settings are used at the factory. The setting of "Binary - AGM" is apparently for specialist "Bipolar AGM" batteries! Also the drop down list is from VCDS & not generated by your car's BCM, therefore, your car may not support all the options on the list, & the BCM will reject the value when you tell it to accept it! Battery BEM codes are now redundant with the above separate channels. The most important channels are:- Rated battery capacity, Battery technology, & Battery Serial Number. For the Battery Serial Number, just change one digit of the old one. This channel tells the BCM that a new battery has been installed & to relearn the new battery & forget any “learnt values” for the old battery!

Those front discs are well past their best. Can't see anything with the drum brakes as the drums are still on.

Its always good to document what you found/did so anyone else with this issue and who finds the thread will know what to do instantly.

Ask them to do cam belt ,then laugh at them when they cant find one .

What was done at past services, what miles now and since last service. Maybe find a good independent if the Service Plan requires being ripped off on extras. Service as the vehicle requires. If the Service Plan is Oil & Inspection Service and next time Oil & Inspection & Extended Scope then let them do that Servicing and tell them to not do anything that costs extra. If the car has not got Haldex then is it a VAQ service. (that is at the front not the rear) ? VAQ £100 + @ 3 years / 30,000 miles. DSG £220 @40,000 miles, Oil & inspection Service maybe £185 Extended Scope £65 @ 3 years then each 2. Brake fluid maybe £65 @ 3 years then each 2 years. Pollen Filter £35 Rip off. Do it yourself. Air Filter £45 Rip Off. Do it yourself. In Blue is 2021 fixed prices cars 3-10 years old. @ participating dealers.... Pi55 taking.

It's great when people on a forum can get the help they are looking for from like minded people...I used to be in the ford rsoc and you might get a reply 4 months later...as well as this forum.i am on the focus rs owners club and the help offered there is equal to this site. 👍👍👍

What a crazy story. I do wonder how it ended up on the U.K. market and who registered it as a U.K. car. Whether it was Skoda or a dodgy import after the fact

That's a shame but I have to say I'd be arguing that finding a replacement is their issue not yours as clearly they have been trying to sell a vehicle in the UK that technically is illegal to use in the UK as it has no certificate of conformity. You've purchased in good faith and they've ballsed up so it should be up to them to sort it out by finding you another similar vehicle and, as they have now sold your old car at auction, providing you with a curtesy car until such time as theyhave done so.

Yeah, that rust on the wishbones is entirely normal. Most cars look like that underneath unless they are pretty new. As for the drop links - it's often difficult to feel any wear in them on the car. Best just renew them as they are a common failure and cause of knocks.

Agreed with this. Worry about the more pressing matters, if any (I haven't read the rest of this thread, just the past few posts).

I wasn't able to find a MK4 with park assist but I would expect the extra sensors to be in a similar place to the MK3.

Have you considered letting the person in the boot out?

I keep a battery in the coin pouch of my wallet so I can replace battery without having to open up key slot on car. Doesn’t alarm go off if you open it that way?

Dont worry man, in normal i dont use my car in the crowded traffic times in the streets, most of the time i use it twice or 3 times per week at midnight for Joy Ride purpose only so there is no crowded traffic and rarely i use it in crowded traffic in the afternoon, i always use Bus for my daily tranportation or work. i always use High Quality oem parts, I treat my car very well I use for the engine oil Mannol Defender 10w40 semi synthetic and Oil Filter i use Mann W 712/52 or Hengst H90W17

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. ETA: TMB posted whilst I was typing. Front. You can't really see the rear brakes as they are inside the drums. Front do most of the work (along with the tyres). If the brakes feel OK in use then I would wait until the better and warm weather, same with the rust on the wishbones unless I was doing other work there like replacing droplinks as you are in that area working anyway and you get at and around more with some bits removed for replacement. You can test the brake fluid for water content to see if that can wait for better weather to change if required. You are always better to have your brakes and suspension in the best reasonable condition but yours have passed your country's minimum statutory requirements so if they do not vary from this with your use it can wait for better weather if you want to.

It should never have been registered with the DVLA without a certificate of conformity, the dealer should not have sold it at auction either but we are talking about the motor trade here. Whether you feel you have anything to gain by contacting the DVLA and letting them know I don't know, it's a shame it could not have been done before they shifted it via the auction.

Seen as your car is a TSI 2.0 it wont have a cambelt to start with Regarding the prices youve been quoted, here are some of what i charge in north london with online service history all updated to match; I charge £150 for a DSG service on the 6spd For an oil change using all genuine parts £90 Pollen filter is charged at cost price depending on what one but between £10-15 normally Haldex i charge £90 for with a filter clean You are correct that things like fuel filter, air filter are not covered by the plan but the petrol vehicles do not have a servicable fuel filter and the air filter again I charge only what it costs as its a few minute job and genuine is normally around £10. Remember, the prices ive put above are what I charge but I dont have the same overheads as a dealer so cant offer you a cup of tea or a sofa to sit on Hopefully these prices give you a bit of an understanding, but take it with a pinch of salt, dealers and garages will generally be more expensive than me.

Looks a bit rusty to me, and if one needs replacing it's best to replace the other one on the same axle.

In fact, there are several cars with factory rear-DRL, without tweaking/playing with the car settings. One example is my last Megane GT - it had permanent rear lights ON - similar to the front DRL. However, from time to time I occasionally notice some Megane 4 with rear lights off - so I guess sometimes the factory decides to configure the car differently. Another example I know about is the Kia CEED - it also had rear DRL from factory. I doubt the rear DRLs partially obscure the brake lights; if this would be true, it would also be a safety risk in dim light, when the car (or the driver) decides to start the front&rear lighting.

He's already on that one 🤣

Hahaha. That is very true. Eric has been very helpful though and the refund offer for the old one was generous. Varooom saved me a big payout.

Shhhhhhhh re washing. Mine has been washed twice in almost 3 years, both times by the dealer when in for camera fitting then for a service. Both times against my express instructions! 😠

Varooom is the man mate, I think Eric from eBay is gunning for him though ha ha ha ha

No problem closing with the load cover in place. The load cover does make contact with the wheel but closing the boot door holds it perfectly in place. 👍 I initially carried the spare in the “proper” place with the styrofoam fillers and some wood to support the sides of the floor but that wasted way too much space so tried the side mounting route and suits what we do much better. With the type of long haul journeys I do anything other than a full replacement wheel isn’t an option, if I have a puncture (and I’ve had a few over the years) I want to change the wheel, crack on to where I’m going then sort it out at my leisure once there. And, from the numbers of cars I clocked on a long haul yesterday and today stuck at the side of the road with a puncture, that’s not a view I’ll change. I know the risk is small but it’s the old risk vs consequences - minimum risk but total PITA consequences. 👍

NSR window issue is likely to be a broken wire rather than anything more systemic, I think. Look in the front door bellows on that side first, unless both front and rear NS doors get equal use.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Unless you are one of Sweden's entrants for Worlds Strongest Man you may not be having the same effect as the car's weight and movement, the tester probably(?) used a bar to test or the gap was with the weight of the car rested on its wheels/tyres. Personally I do not think that it is a good idea to have the car rocking if it is supported by the jack that comes with the car or just one axle stand. It could be a few things including these and a combination of these and others, a good place to start would be as the tester found and advised. The more parts that are fixed securely and not too worn the better your chances of locating other noises or looseness and/or wear.

It's the same kind of display (but not as nice) on the Octavia 3, it extrapolates between the side sensors as you drive slowly along searching for a suitable space.

Does it happen when the rear windows are rolled down?

Yeah, i know this is the last version. Thank you!

Last week my car finally got VIN number after 13 months of waiting. Today i got informed that all Octavias were stopped in production and they dont know what is wrong or missing.

My understanding is that the soot levels will be reset once clean and the car will continue to regen every 270 miles give or take. The extra oil burnt will not make too much difference as there is only a small amount. If you think how many litres of fuel is burnt per how much oil is burnt. The oil quantity is very dilute in comparison and wouldnt make a huge impact.

I still have no idea of what software update applies to you. Can you try again with radio on, and hold the Setup button for 10 seconds, don't release button early.

prices are currently very strong as with all used cars, whether realistic and achievable who knows. Just look on Ebay / Autotrader to get an idea.......off the top of my head, anywhere between £5500 - 7000 "ish"

In case anyone is still following, she's not dead yet 😂 New battery in today and fired right up, 1 light on the dash for the SRS light so nothing major! 1 step closer to getting it back on the road. VID20221106121930.mp4

2019 Sportline - our practical family car. Few little tweaks including APR ECU and TCU tune. Pictured with my not so sensible car.

Neither does the driver! Admittedly mine wasn't Rufford Ford, it was Barskimming Road outside Mauchline and there was a burst pipe, was about 8pm at night and dark. Didn't see the water until I was well and truly in it. The Fabia made it out... I'm not entirely sure how to be honest.

Hi all, New Skoda owner here - recently picked up a 2016 Octavia VRS Estate (petrol 230PS, manual) with a heap of nice options. This is a new family wagon for us replacing my BMW Z4 Coupe, so a bit of a step change! The first few weeks haven't run completely smoothly unfortunately so I have a few technical questions to post elsewhere, but in general we're very pleased with it so far. Planning to hang on to this car for a while and hopefully be able to contribute to the forum. Cheers!

I've now heard from the dealer that the car is prioritized at the factory and will be built in December. Expected delivery somewhere in January. That would make it 16 months since order date and 12 months of delay compared to initial estimate.

In Slovenia we also don't get security bolts. At least I didn't get them. @Ajdolin @MaximusMeridius @AudreySI what about you?

This. I'm going through this first flush of love feeling right now with my mk1 vrs. I haven't had decent car for ages, my audi a4 avnt 1.8 was nice but I didn't have enough money to improve it at the time. Before the vrs I had a nissan primera (which I personally like) but it got smashed up 3 times in a year when my missus used it too, so when I got out and looked back, it looked like it had been in Kherson for 6 months

Hi @codyblue welcome to the communtiy. im not directly familiar with the fabia. However I know it could be done in earlier cars, like the Octavia. here are some search results. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/search/?q=Retrofit cruise control fabia&updated_after=any&sortby=relevancy&search_and_or=and id hazard a guess it can be done. Of course there will be a cost. Not sure where you are, but there are a lot of local vag specialists who could do it; assuming it’s possible. that cost, needs to be measured against the cost in returning and purchasing another vehicle. do you have the advert still as that’s a crucial part of that. Take some advice from a few more. hope this helps. Feel free to ask more questions, as replies to those topics, or a fresh.