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Some of the cheaper versions are known to rust: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/445018-retrofit-bonnet-strut/?do=findComment&comment=5369631 When I did it, I used the parts listed in this post: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/445018-retrofit-bonnet-strut/?do=findComment&comment=5369638

Does this count as a nice backdrop?

This makes me think you have a bad earth on the new RH headlight and/or indicator.

If you have a multimeter, the best way to check is in the morning before you start, also can you take picture of the battery iteself (or tell us the type/rating) I replaced my 2015 battery as it was nearing the end of it's life, showing almost 12V when left for a day (it should be higher) I was getting a few lazy starts on a 1.6ltr engine, not massively so, but you could tell it was thinking about it more.

Try putting it in the search. There was a post that gave all the information needed, it helped alot of people.

The mkII only has one reversing light (left side from rear) the other one drivers side is the rear fog light which works when you pulll the switch out sorry about that you have been barking up the wrong tree here, you can fit 2 reversing lamps but you need a lens fitting off a left hand drive and you'll need to wire up the rear fog lights to both rear lens nt really worth the potch to be honest

These things get lost or overlooked, when towing often the luggage compartment is full so when the swan neck is removed it might be put in the shed, garage etc.

Its probably one standard wheel liner for all the accessories some of which may not be supplied dependant on the spec of the vehicle or in its country of origin.

^^^ this, plus, if you have someone to assist, keep the meter leads on the battery terminals while assistant cranks the engine. This will give a good indication of battery condition.

I agree it's worth waiting for, but prolonging the waiting times brings frustration. Regarding your car, there is one thing for sure; even if you forget where you left your car, you could not miss it in a parking lot even if you wanted to 😉😀.

I replied to your message and am repeating it here for the forum. I have a different vehicle & engine but the EGR position is probably similar because I could not see the connector either, I traced the loom to it and removed it by feel, by the time you get your arm down there you could not see anything anyway. Having now done it a couple of times its become easy but releasing the latch on the connector whilst pushing the connector in and then pulling it out while keeping the latch disengaged all with one hand and by feel takes a lot of doing, I fed a long screwdriver down by feel into the right position to release the latch and used my other hand to push it. If you think about the positioning of the unit and how you run the sub loom to the MAF sensor the whole installation can be completely invisible, you would have to be on the look-out for modifications and then remove the air trunking to see that mine has been fiddled with, they use an identical piece of loom and connector for the MAF sensor which is the only visible part.

Top work, as always @MartiniB

A few from this evening..........

Final fit of the exhaust tonight, Piper rear silencer delete pipe looks a little lost in the cavernous area where the rear box will be eventually but it looks fine from behind. Happy with that for now. Hopefully getting it off the stands this coming weekend and out of the garage for a good clean

Thanks so much! I thought it might be the case, I will get that sorted at the end of the month. Thanks again

Yes the shuddering at shut down is caused by clag build up on the throttle body from the pretty much constant EGR operation, if you are lucky it will just be sticky and not able to fully close, if you are unlucky it will have stripped its teeth. Declagging the intake tract usually results in excellent power and economy gains, while you are doing it you can reverse the orientation of the EGR inlet stub to reduce the future clagging.

One of the biggest issues with rear drums on Fabias is that the arm that the handbrake cable connects to has a pivot on the shoe which can seize, When this happens, the shoes remain in constant contact with the drum and cause drag with the resulting heat, and can give unbalanced wear and in-efficient hand brake action. The issue with the build up of rust at the disc periphery at the edge of the pads is this can cause judder as any high spot will intermittently contact the pad during the disc rotation. For this reason I always try to remove this, whether by tapping the rust with a chisel blade or hammer, grinding, of filing, All these issues are "been there, done that".

Sounds like a specialist in avoiding getting his hands dirty. The first thing I would have done would have been to pull forward the 7 pin (presumably) trailer socket and check the wiring connections for corrosion, wires pulled out etc. Trailer sockets have the same connections and (lack of) water protection as they did 50 years ago and are very prone to failure, VCDS would have been my very last resort, using my eyes and common sense would have been the first. I do also have a plug in tester because trying other lighting boards can introduce myriad other errors as you have found, there is only one thing more shonky than a trailer socket & plug and that is trailer light units! I cant believe you have to have 2 appointments with a "specialist" to resolve such a basic issue.

I have the option to add them back. But when I do they're just blacked out because theres no connection to it. And the symptoms was there before I checked it with OBDEleven. It will ask if I want to auto-code the gateway list and it hasnt failed before. I guess it disabled theese modules because there was no connection to them. I tried enabling them again but they stay unresponsive.

That's an interesting article Roottoot. I have our regen set to maximum and can confirm that the brake lights came on whenever the accelerator pedal was released, even if the regen level was low.

SKODA OCTAVIA SE L TSI Estate. My previous Octavia was the same model, but the Mk III. It's a whole different animal. It is going to take me a while to get to grips with the digital Infotainment. I actually find it much more difficult to navigate than the previous version. I miss some of the options that I had previously, or, if they are available, I can't fine them. I have made one discovery. Skoda must have changed the data supplier for the navigation, as the data is incorrect. If I put my sister's postcode in, It gives me a place 400 yards away and if I select her house by tapping the map, it comes up with the wrong address. The address given is at the other end of the road.

@Sandgroper What TDI engine do you have? How many miles now done? Have you had it from new? You could well put off having this work / expense for a while if you are just doing local trips and driving easy.

I have a battery tester, ill chuck that on it when i get home and say what it says 👍🏻

^^^ Not when they know the value of them. Anyone at any point can help them self to things from a car, the seller, the transporter, the dealer / trader.

Towards the top of image, near the narrower connector pin:

I think you will find that the connectors are all keyed so that they will only fit in the correct positions.

Paste. However, I have the spray in the boot to top-up after removal of a bird strike! Bought from Amazon here. I bought the paste from a seller on eBay here who sells it for a great price. Boxes are bit damaged, but who cares. I also got the sealant spray for a two pack deal on Amazon sold direct from TW here.

Now the P7’s are close to their EOL and we’ll be going north over the winter, I’ve plumped for Michelin Cross Climate 2’s; I’m getting them changed next Tuesday. Michelin has a 15% discount promotion through BlackCircles at the moment, bringing them down to £184 a corner fitted. I’ll report back with my initial impressions.

VCDS can perform the above change as I've done it in my '18 plate vRS. As to whether it sounds better, that subjective but given it's a two minute job to change it or change it back, I'd suggest you try it for yourself. The only oddness is the change doesn't effect all sources. If I remember correctly, it doesn't effect the radio but does for bluetooth/AndroidAuto etc...

36k battery has been tested 2015, yes i understand ppl may comment but i may be being overly critical, i mean it starts 🤷

@matt_j What age is the car, how many miles done, is it the original battery? All kind of relevant because really when new the cars are not hesitant to start or that would have been an issue people commented on.

I bought a pair of generic ones from eBay. They came with no instructions but were fairly easy to work out. The ones I bought (and I believe the majority) replace one painted bolt that holds the wing on and one of the two Torx bolts that hold the bonnet to the bonnet hinges (photo of mine attached) In terms of instructions, fairly easy to fit. Firstly, use locktite on all fittings. Once the original bolts are out, fit in this order - end fitting for the bonnet end, then attach the gas strut (mine came pre-fitted in packaging so had to unscrew) so you can Torque up the fitting to the bonnet. Then fit the ball end bolt to the wing and connect the strut. It's almost impossible to get the ball end and strut apart once they are connected. I hope this helps, drop me a PM if you get stuck.

These perform OK if you are not wanting to go to All Terrains. If you do want All Terrains the size you have is an awkward one. There is a thread on robust tyres for a Scout. It is in the tyre section and i have bumped it for you.

^^^^ Especially any earth connections.

It’s a bit like an old tamiya rc car changing the shells I gutted the Skoda and topped the tt and welded them together, I’ve got a full cage to go in which will be connected to both shell and chassis for strength. I think doing it this way was the most straightforward, my brother did the same with his firenza, Impreza floor pan firenza body

For the next update........... Mine ordered 6th Jun 22 (picked up 10th October) has P for its 10th character .

Installed that lamp, mirroring the original one on the left side. Just had to make a more-or-less correct size cutout in the plastic, popped in the lamp i got from the local ebay, installed the two LED fastoons, and voila, I have a lot more light to see in the boot during the long dark winter months on the countryside. (closest streetlamp is 200m away, so it get's properly pitch black in the carport) ran a cable from the original lamp to the new one right next to the original wire loom under the boot doorstep, so all looks decently original. Fylaktos, nah, I'm a native Hungarian and got a Hungarian speaking job here for good salary way back when I was a live-in-slave in a hotel in Essex. In the UK I was just another of the not too welcome "Eastern European" (mind me, i'm an Anglophile, and can't blame them: there was a plague of us, but we kept the economy rolling) and here the Poles actually like Hungarians (we are probably the only neighbour they don't really have a historic animosity with... the same on our side in Hungary, but here it's much much more pronounced). But would I say no to a place in Italy, preferably on the South, with the great kitchen, the good wine, the awesome car history? 😛 Hahaha, I guess, not.

Finally got my car a couple of weeks ago. And it pains me to admit it but I’m glad I waited.

That pipe having popped out will be causing some of, if not all of, a power loss as you are losing boost. You can try putting your pipe back in properly, making sure the clip is secure, and see how long it lasts. But I think, before the previous owner has put a screw in to hold it, the pipe popping out has been an issue before. The pipe in your pic looks right. There will be a way to check the part number is right on this forum.

Definitely rust on the discs. My main concern was over the rust on the inside edge of the pad swept area on the LH disc. (see your own photos upthread and compare left and right) Yes, the rust on the outside of the drums is there, and quite normal as per @TMB. As he also says you need to remove the drums to inspect the shoes for wear, and indeed drums likewise. Note that, as drums wear they get larger inside, not smaller or thinner.

Dent fixed Like it never happened. Extremely impressed.

This has just happened to me too - got a stick and guide for £14 off ebay. The guy at the VAG garage said it needs doing, as if the seal is bust (think he's referring to the pipe part) there's an air leak- which gives incorrect info to the MAF sensor so your turbo and engine assumes there's more air than there is... so the car will run rich, etc.....sorta makes sense. Not looking forward to replacing it though, sounds a mare

Cool story bro

Race blue is nice the wifes Race blue is an awesome colour our last one was the same yours looks very nice. Wonder why it took 12 months though we ordered a 1.5 Sportline in May and it was delivered in Sept. Can only think it must be your spec which delayed it? Be careful with the plastic door protectors and little hands my (now 9 year old twins) managed to break both off on our original SE-L which came with them as standard first one was covered under warranty the second I had to pay to replace.

New reg and a quick shot from a local meet. Will be doing some updates soon. One of which is a new boot release with built-in pop up camera. Will post on here when done.

It is a good while ago now, from hazy recall I believe a lot was EGR/injectors/emissions/electronic related(and btw his Son is big into the computer diagnostic stuff) cheers Marcus

Well maybe J.R. has a point, and please don't take this the wrong way. I have no doubt that you are trying to be helpful when you post replies here but I have to tell you that your knowledge of batteries is incorrect. Have you actually taken onboard that I'm an electrical engineer by trade and started out in the industry working for what was then the National Bus Company as an auto electrical engineer. There were zero college courses back then for that trade, the nearest being just electrical engineering, for which I did many courses over an 8 year period finishing up with HNC in electrical engineering as a qualification, similar to that of a consulting engineer. I only asked here for help because, the systems have become much more complicated since I was last active as an auto electrician. For the last 40 years I have been more active in the technical sales side and design side of electrical engineering and enjoyed companies cars which I never had to maintain, so have not bothered to keep upto date with systems, but battery behaviour remains constant. With modern batteries there really is zero need to trickle charge a battery in a car that is used frequently, if the electrical system is in good order, it will keep the battery charged under normal conditions. Cars these days have alternators which can deliver a high charge if required with the engine just ticking over, no longer is it necessary to have high engine revs or have to drive for a long time / distance to replace the power extracted to start the engine, just a few minutes running time is enough. Unless there is a damaged wiring loom or a faulty switch holding a circuit active which is drawing more current than your battery charger can supply, is there any need to ever remove the battery from the car in order to charge it. In fact if there was a damaged wiring loom then that will make itself known in so many ways besides running the battery down, the worst case scenario would be a fire with the likely outcome being a total loss of the car, especially if some amateur electrician has been bypassing the fuses or replacing them with wire etc. Yes you do see and hear of people who have cars in storage fitting a trickle charger to their car as a permanent fitment. The reason for that is that with modern cars and this is even worse with the larger more upmarket cars with extra bells and whistles, is because of the many control units that constantly talk to each other via the databus, draining the battery. Its no fun storing your fun summer car, or the car that you might keep for special occasions, that refuses to start after its been sat in the garage for 6 months, and once you get it started, the dashboard lights up like a Christmas tree because the battery voltage has dropped to such a low value that the control units have lost all the stored data and require resetting etc. Modern cars do not like having the battery being removed and then refitted, as some parts of the management systems will have their memories erased and will need to be reset etc. This is why it is dangerous to try and come over to others in these forums as if you are something of an expert, which is precisely how you portray yourself, even though you have this "Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything." as part of your signature. For the record, I'm now 73 years and electronics is my hobby.

Went up to Kames on the Sunday to see some Rally action. Different classes of cars going around from 1l citigos... Evos Escorts And everything in between Only a small track but was spectacular seeing all the cars go round. Back on the ferry Sunday evening, have to say everyone was extremely nice, the food was lovely and cheap, the pints fantastic and far cheaper than what you'd get back home and aside from the average speed cameras, the roads are great too. Even though it wasn't much of a driving trip, this drove fantastic the whole weekend, all the changes done to it in the past week made a noticeable difference. Thanks to the sound deadening (and probably the increase in caster) its far more comfortable cruising on the motorway, its a bit better at taking bumps in the road, the K brace tightened the car up that bit more. Its still pretty underpowered but the intercoolers helped stop it losing a lot of power from heat soak. Wish the ferry was cheaper, its almost definitely the last time I'll be able to take the car over for a while. Overall a great weekend and even better seeing the stuff I did to the car paid off.

I was a bit worried about those superpro bushes, didn't want to gamble on taking the car apart only to find they needed to be pressed into my old bushes. So I bought new Wishbones. Approx £25 each, including bushes and ball joints. Used a vice to press the old bushes out, and the superpro ones in. These bushes being offset need to be clocked so the hole is near the inside of the car. Fully assembled. Painted them hammered black, ready to go into the car next day. Choosing to keep the front wishbone rubber, as its a solid bush it doesn't make a bit of difference if I keep it rubber or switch to Poly. Also, Made a start on some new engine mounts. This time however I'm using proper polyurethane instead of tigerseal. Gutted an old engine side Hydroil mount, gave it a deep clean and paint ready to be filled next day. Also did a dogbone mount, came off the 1.2l petrol fabia I got the subframe for the mk1 from a while back. Filled this with 70 shore hardness stuff, spilled quite a bit because I hadn't sealed it properly to the cardboard. Debating whether or not to use 60 shore stuff on the hydroil mount. This dogbone will go onto the Monte, I have a powerflex bush in it now, but it is a 65 shore one and I want one that's just a bit firmer. Made a bit of a mess but otherwise went OK.

Updated for MY22 cars. All cars have a unique 17 character identity code – their Vehicle Identification Number or VIN. For Karoqs this is displayed at the bottom lefthand corner of the windscreen, on a sticker at the base of the middle body pillar, and stamped into the righthand suspension turret under the bonnet. It takes the form: TMB LJ7 NU 7J5 012345 and can be decoded as follows: The first 3 characters are TMB for Škoda cars. The 4th character tells you the chassis type: J = left-hand drive FWD, K = right-hand drive FWD, L = left-hand drive 4x4 and M = right-hand drive 4x4. The 5th character tells you the engine: E = 2.0 TSI 190PS, G = 1.6 TDI 115PS, J = 2.0 TDI 150PS, M = 2.0 TDI 190 PS, P = 1.0 TSI 115PS, R = 1.5 TSI 150PS. (Anyone know the code for the 2.0 TDI 115PS engine or Russian 1.6 MPI engines?) The 6th character tells you how many airbags the car has: 2 = 2 front airbags, 4 = 2 front and 2 side airbags, 5 = 2 fronts + 2 sides + 1 knee airbag, 6 = 2 front airbags + 2 sides + 2 heads, 7 = 2 front airbags + 2 sides + 2 heads + 1 knee airbag, 8 = 2 front airbags + 4 sides + 2 heads, 9 = 2 front bags + 4 sides + 2 heads + 1 knee airbag. The 7th and 8th character tell you the vehicle model: NU = the Karoq (2017 on). The 9th character is a check digit to validate the code. The 10th character tells you the car's model year: J = MY2018 (ie manufactured between summer 2017 and summer 2018), K = MY2019 (ie manufactured between summer 2018 and summer 2019), L = MY2020 (ie manufactured between summer 2019 and summer 2020), M = MY2021 (ie manufactured between summer 2020 and summer 2021), N = MY2022 (ie manufactured between summer 2021 and summer 2022). The 11th character tells you where your car was built: 0 to 4 = Mladá Boleslav, Czechia; 5 = Kvasiny, Czechia; 7 or 8 = Vrchlabi, Czechia; B = Solomonovo, Ukraine; H = Nizhny Novgorod, Russia; J = Osnabruck, Germany; K = Kaluga, Russia; N = Mladá Boleslav, Czechia. Then finally the 12th to 17th numbers are the unique production number for that production line and year. If anyone has a character in their VIN not listed above, please give me the details so I can update this guide. Thanks Chris