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New Coil arrived. Opted for a Lucas "Sport" coil. Swapped all over and threw the new one in and... It Fired right up. Timing is almost definitely off and there's quite a delay on the throttle, but just happy it's running again. Done just about everything I can now to give the best spark possible. Need to change the timing belt and set valve lash not sure which I should do first though. Might be worth getting this out to the farm and doing the rest of the work there. Is well on the way to being roadworthy. Been a nightmare getting a logbook for it but I'm not letting that stop me.

The drizzle caught in the torch light.....

Right, a conclusion to the story. I complained to Autoglass and told them that unless they sorted out both the broken window and the damage they had caused, I would be making an insurance claim against them to get the problem fixed. Autoglass seem to have a very good complaints department, and they kicked into action and, after a minor hiccup where they planned to come out and replace the window without having the window seals, I finally had a guy come out and replace the window seals and the window itself. The window seals come in two parts (not 3, IIRC) and one includes the small pane of glass at the rear of the door. It's worth noting that there are metal inserts in the door glass rubber seals which can easily be damaged, so they require handling with a little care as they can be deformed or broken pretty easily if you're rough with them. Also worth noting is that the interlocking of the window seals is a bit complicated where they meet with each other, and the Autoglass tech (a master tech, no less) didn't interlock them properly, but it was easy enough to sort that out by comparing them with the other side. (Which is how I noticed they weren't fitted correctly in the first place.) So eventually Autoglass did a good job and all is now well with the car. Over the course of the three visits I had from Autoglass fitters, between us we managed to get pretty much all the broken glass out from inside the door, and if there's any still in there, it doesn't make its presence known. All the Autoglass people were friendly and polite, but the guy who caused the damage was a bit careless/clumsy/simian in his work. Autoglass also agreed to waive my excess, which I was pretty pleased about as it's a spicy £95. So that's that, then.

If it's any reassurance, we have the DQ200 in our VW Polo. It's done 45,000 miles and hasn't missed a beat in the five years we've owed it. Great little gearbox, well suited to the car. Gaz

@Phil82 Who was he? Was he a salesperson? ? Has the car been serviced to manufacturers guideline so maybe the Spark Plugs changed, the pollen filter twice now or at least at the last service, the brake fluid once. Stuff that is part of the 1.0TSI's servicing schedule. A 1.0 TSI has a DQ200 7 speed twin dry clutch DSG which does not have a service schedule, recommendations or guidelines for oil changes. All New Octavia do not have Sealed for Life DSG's. Wet clutch 6 speed DSG's in 1.4 TSI PHEV's have a service interval, as do 7 speeds 2.0 TDI or TSI's. and AWD's. A DQ200 is not sealed for life either. There are 2 oils, in the box and in the MCU. It is just they do not have a service schedule from VW Group. (Some people choose to have the oil changed eventually, and early ones had oil changed because of the World Wide recall which was a Service Campaign in Europe. That is not a Sealed Unit, in any way shape or form.)

Hi mate...his ebay user name is rcd310...guy called Eric. Carl

Mines done 60,000 with no problems at all. Had the software and oil recall done, that's all.

As if by magic…

kodiaqsportline - please read again my post last Friday regarding the web page now used to host/display the manual, and then take into account the comments by varoom above. KenONeill - I was tempted to respond immediately to your comments but saw no real point until the above response from varoom appeared. I repeat - there are no means available on the page to download anything, and trying to print anything (using the three dots access to Chrome's settings only produces a garbled image. I've yet to try a screenshot (& print of the resulting .jpeg) but I can't help but think that that would be an extremely time-consuming process, extremely costly in terms of ink usage in printing the whole screen, and I have to ask why what should be a relatively simple process should be made so difficult. If Skoda were to continue to put up the manual as a printable/downloadable .pdf the problem is solved. If they subsequently need to update any particular page - no problem. Page updated & new information available to anybody who needs to access it. varoom - Thanks for your post - hopefully some readers will see that it isn't just me - you have described my problem extremely succinctly. (At one point I did start to wonder whether I might be in need of a little more learning/practice in the use of computers - I started with an IBM PC-XT in 1974(!) so obviously I could be said to have a lot to learn.

If anyone's interested, here is a pic of what lies behind the door card of the rear door on my MK3 Octavia.

@TheUltraRunner I am now comparing it with photo of mine engine without cover and seems its same one... @bigreddognz the part number would be perfect If there is really new one, I am super curious, if Skoda will replace what they took from us, or just tell us to f**k of

I think this was the first thread on Briskoda with an issue possibly GPF related. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/479195-car-behaving-strangely

I would strongly suggest avoiding the one touch apps... OBDeleven don't tell you what is being changed and they have been known to mess up various settings when the vehicle identification isn't up to scratch. Given the backup functionally and support aren't great, I would suggest manual changes are a better plan. It can be a great tool in the right hands but equally you can really mess things up through it's 'friendly' UI. At least with VCDS there is an obvious log of changes made. You can still mess things up but at least it's normally pretty easy to back track 😉

I took a bit of the weekend off from a lot of firmware help. I can send you 0369 version to you.

Yes, Wheel nuts 17mm, well they are on my 2018 1.5 SEL Karoq I would think that all Karoks would all be 17mm otherwise new tooling would be needed for the plastic caps etc.

Some dealerships or the staff at are rather lacking in getting with why customers pay a premium to buy an Approved Used car. Plenty threads on that subject in the General Automotive Chat section. https://customer.vwfs.co.uk/approved-used-vehicles/skoda-approved-used.html

Hi I am a retired and based in Denbighshire North Wales. Purchased a 2013 4 x 4 Yeti LK summer 2022

Hi @toot it was on the Approved used cars list from Skoda and I went to the franchise to test drive and purchase it. I have 12 month's warranty included. However, with all the wear and tear clauses I doubt the DSG would be covered. Latest doc from Skoda on used car warranty After a call today they have agreed to take the car back and do the checks again as I have found a fair amount of items missed. I have also noticed from your last post that they did not cover the maintenance and servicing advised by Skoda for a 4 year period before I purchased the car. This is something to discuss once their after sales individual contacts me to arrange a day to visit and review the car again.

Paint them with some black nail varnish?

Please, is it possible to send me an update on my amundsen, I enter the factory settings and after turning off the ignition, everything is back, I hope for a fix. Thank you in advance and sorry google translation

Updated for MY23 cars and non-European cars (with thanks to Varooom). All cars have a unique 17 character identity code – their Vehicle Identification Number or VIN. For Karoqs this is displayed at the bottom lefthand corner of the windscreen, on a sticker at the base of the middle body pillar, and stamped into the righthand suspension turret under the bonnet. It takes the form: TMB LJ7 NU 7J5 012345 and can be decoded as follows: The first 3 characters are XW8 for cars made in Russia, or TMB for cars made in other Skoda manufacturing plants. The 4th character tells you the chassis type: J = left-hand drive FWD, K = right-hand drive FWD, L = left-hand drive 4x4 and M = right-hand drive 4x4. The 5th character tells you the engine: C = 1.4 TSI 150 PS, E = 2.0 TSI 190PS, F = 2.0 TDI 115 PS, G = 1.6 TDI 115PS, H = 2.0 TDI 140 PS, J = 2.0 TDI 150PS, M = 2.0 TDI 190 PS, N = 1.6 MPI 110 PS (Russian market), P = 1.0 TSI 115PS, R = 1.5 TSI 150PS. In Europe, the 6th character tells you how many airbags the car has: 2 = 2 front airbags, 4 = 2 front and 2 side airbags, 5 = 2 fronts + 2 sides + 1 knee airbag, 6 = 2 front airbags + 2 sides + 2 heads, 7 = 2 front airbags + 2 sides + 2 heads + 1 knee airbag, 8 = 2 front airbags + 4 sides + 2 heads, 9 = 2 front bags + 4 sides + 2 heads + 1 knee airbag. (However in India, this character is used to show the month of manufacture: A = January. B = February, C = March, D = April, E = May, F = June, G = July, H = August, J = September, K = October, L = November, M = December.) The 7th and 8th character tell you the vehicle model: NU = the Karoq (2017 on). The 9th character is a check digit to validate the code. For European cars, the 10th character tells you the car's model year: J = MY2018 (ie manufactured between summer 2017 and summer 2018), K = MY2019 (ie manufactured between summer 2018 and summer 2019), L = MY2020 (ie manufactured between summer 2019 and summer 2020), M = MY2021 (ie manufactured between summer 2020 and summer 2021), N = MY2022 (ie manufactured between summer 2021 and summer 2022), P = MY2023 (ie manufactured between summer 2022 and summer 2023). (However in India this character tells you the year of manufacture: J = 2018, K = 2019, L = 2020, M = 2021, N = 2022, P = 2023. The 11th character tells you where your car was built: 0 to 4 = Mladá Boleslav, Czechia; 5 = Kvasiny, Czechia; 7 or 8 = Vrchlabi, Czechia; B = Solomonovo, Ukraine; C = Brataslava, Slovakia; H = Nizhny Novgorod, Russia; J = Osnabruck, Germany; K = Kaluga, Russia; N = Mladá Boleslav, Czechia. Then finally the 12th to 17th numbers are the unique production number for that production line and year. If anyone has a character in their VIN not listed above, please tell me so that I can update this guide. Thanks Chris

Agreed. If you left-click on the ellipsis "..." icon at the top right of a post you get options to report or share it. Under Report, you get further radio button options including one for "Wrong Forum".

The NSR or both NSF and NSR? There's a crucial comms wire that goes (only) from front door module to rear one on same side, if that's busted in either bellows the rear module won't get the info it needs (Rear door modules are not on any CAN bus). If the front door is most used of the two on NS, then that's the most likely place for a breakage of this wire. Hence why I suggested checking that one first, well upthread. You said before that there's no power going to the door, but if you've not removed the door card I can't see how you've checked this? Just by assumption because things aren't working? A wire breakage anywhere other than the door bellows seems massively unlikely compared to where it flexes in the bellows.

I think I was around 3.4 miles/kWh. Friday was very windy which cost a bit, but then the weather turned warm and still to compensate. I've no doubt moaned about the smart meter situation in rural Wales on this thread elsewhere but I cannot get one so an EV tariff is not available to me. I do have a good (compared to current rates) fixed price until September though.

Thanks nta16. I have now edited my profile,

No threadlock, use the special moly paste for torquing them to the spec. TBH they're a bit of an ostentation, PD150 head bolts are more than good enough.

Thanks to everyone who has posted on this. The gasoline particulate filter ( GPF) has been mentioned more than once as a possible contributor and mention has been made of the GPF warning light that will come on if there is a problem with this filter. This warning light has never come on since I have owned the car including when I get this current issue. So presumably, unless the warning light itself is inoperative for whatever reason the problem does not lie with the GPF?? The right turn I mentioned in my post often has vehicles parked close to the turn and I always try to take it slowly and carefully because you cannot see traffic coming from the main road. Factoring in the parked vehicles means too high a speed could cause an accident, albeit a minor one I have contacted the workshop supervisor to see if this has been reported before and what action was taken and whether it needs to go in to be checked.

+1 I think I read that somewhere too - "Skoda fits an upgraded radiator and oil cooler for the gearbox when a towbar is factory fitted, to allow the vehicle to happily stay inside operating parameters while towing at full capacity."

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

€80 Delivered.

From my experience CarPlay issues only arise when using Google Maps or Waze. Spotify, Apple Music, Apple Maps, etc all work fine, all easily controlled by Siri. Soon after loading either Google Maps or Waze problems begin either with the display or functionality (like G. Maps finding a route but to actually able to start the route guidance, either by voice or tap the screen). Conspiracy theorists reckon its a ploy to make CarPlay look unreliable…

What the heck!!! It's a different one. 😲 Looks like there is still hope i guess. Can you check underneath if there is a part number written somewhere?

If you mean the rubber doughnut on the propshaft just in front of the rear differential then replacements can be had for around £100. Your quote will be high if from a dealer as they don't sell or supply just the rubber coupling but instead only sell or supply a whole propshaft that includes the coupling

@toot Thank you, that's great information on the service and maintenance schedule. Yes there is some serious penny pinching on a car that cost me 16k to buy. I have a phone call booked today with them. I am already not happy that they have not really covered any of the 100 point checks they suggested when buying from a Skoda dealer. In fact they made a effort to trick me into not getting a copy. Which is why I have a call today. I get a 1 year warranty on purchasing from the dealer which I will need to check if it covers the DSG. If I remember rightly it hardly covers anything.

@Phil82 I would chil about the DSG, DQ200 DSG's are not having issues fitted to 1.0TSI's. So fingers crossed, but, BE SURE TO BUY AN EXTENDED WARRANTY THAT COVERS THE DSG when that time comes. As things are 1.0TSI's with a GPF from 2018 on are getting older and the GPF is more likely to become an issue and require replacing. Fingers crossed. That was what VW Group did, crossed their fingers. Fit and forget and leave any hassle to the owners when the warranties have expired. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/508126-mk3-sudden-high-idle-problem http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/479195-car-behaving-strangely ****That was some penny pinching to remove 3 spark plugs to inspect them yet not just put in new ones in a 4 year old car.**** Cheeky / greedy barstewards. IMO. @27,000 miles / 4 years they should have changed them so that the car was serviced to the Manufacturers Recommendations, Guidelines or even Schedule. (Schedule being a term Skoda / VW used to not use.)

+1 Also, the eyebrows use LED lamps, not bulbs.

I'm sure you'll be happy with that Skoda, I'm also a first time Skoda owner.

I think I may have married a Jedi!

Got to love a bright torch in the fog!

Hi. I hope i dont need to start a new post for this. I have a bit of a reverse problem. Skoda Superb 2009 mk2 with Bolero and "sound system" Bought Xtrons also. And as i have the "sound system", i had to buy additional adapter for the xtrons. Link below. Now, it works fine, when i turn the ignition on and everything. Problem is, i want it to continue playing, when i turn the ignition off (but leave the key inside), as it did with Bolero. Instead the speakers turn off after 5sec but xtrons continues to work. The only way, i can continue listening music, is if the emergency blinking lights (sry bad english) are switched on. Please help, any ideas? https://shop.acvgmbh.de/de/aktivsystemadapter-seat-skodavw-lose-kabelcan-bus--281.html?sid=dc0b3ff40f973662c092f25f3f0c72f7&__cookieAction=1

Never tried Eibach. Will do next time though. Had some email conversations with them and they seem friendly and eager to please. I am a bit disappointed with H&R, mainly with their so called "customer service" and their poor documentation. Also, the provided replacement front rubber buffers I got makes a squeaking sound noticable at low speeds when turning and going over bumps. Lubricating the rubber buffers is only a temporary solution since the squeaking returns after awhile (in my case) and the rubber buffers cannot be easily accessed (i.e. without tools and without jacking the car. Somebody, please tell me I'm wrong!). Can't say that the H&R lowering springs for the NX3 non-RS that I've got feels any stiffer than the original springs. However, I've got DCC, and I believe that makes it harder to differentiate between the springs. Using the "Normal" mode, which I guess would be the closest suspension setting to a car without DCC, the ride is still soft with the H&R springs.

I prefer VCDS, yes you have to learn about details of the changes, but at least you know what you're doing and VCDS keeps logs of all the changes to coding and adaptations so if you make a mess you can fairly easily revert back.

I find car cleaning quite therapeutic, my Octavia hasn’t been washed for quite a while now but going to give it a good session tomorrow.

Paste. However, I have the spray in the boot to top-up after removal of a bird strike! Bought from Amazon here. I bought the paste from a seller on eBay here who sells it for a great price. Boxes are bit damaged, but who cares. I also got the sealant spray for a two pack deal on Amazon sold direct from TW here.

Not at all. Just there were a lot of odd bits I required and it was cheaper to buy complete parts and interiors. Seems a shame to throw the bits I dont require away when im sure the community could make great use of it especially when its free and saves people money!

BONZA! I finally did the CV boot today, had some spare time and the weather was good for crawling around on the pavement, well it did rain briefly but by that time I was covered in grease and quite warm from wrestling with my greasy boot! I concur with you all dont buy a stretch boot , they are a pain to get on the ball joint when you have grease everywhere! Ii had to use my breaking bar to wind the ball joint off and that took quite a lot of pressure before it pinged off, glad i bought the removal tool as no doubt I would have failed to get the thing off with a hammer. Thanks for your assistance and now I need to re-visit the MOT test station, fingers crossed

Hello I've been driving through France and across the North of Spain for 45 years and seen a lot of changes most of all it has become much easier for the non-Spanish speaker and in experienced right hand side driver. My first suggestion is get a ferry to Bilbao or Santander and drive the A8 (Autovia) to Galicia (top left corner Spain). The A8 is a magnificent road sweeping over mountains and valleys, UK has nothing like it. Along the way there are beaches on the North and mountains and routes to central Spain to the South. If you don't want to do motorway all the way there is the old road and the old old road still in existence, usually to its North. There is a lot of Spanish tourism in the area and it has now for the past 10yrs been discovered by North Europeans so English is spoken in most places. If you want to head south, I recommend looking for the road (N640*) south west out of Barres to Lugo, on to Ourense and then on to north Portugal. That will be a 3 day drive if you are not trying to break records. That journey will take you through green sweeps of land, across lakes and rias. I recommend doing it in late spring when the heat isnt too bad, the roads are quiet and you will not have half of Madrid competing with you for camping space or hotel rooms. * - road numbers in Spain. They change without warning. You can be driving along a national road such as the N640 which might change to the LL-200 and back to N640. It takes too long to explain why.

Fairly straight forward. remove the glovebox with 6 torx screws, then underneath you’ll see the motor, a few tiny screws hold it in, then it just twists to unlock and fall out. chances are wd40 won’t do anything as it won’t be seizing, probably more like the brushes failing or the module inside