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Less risky. Battery condition can be checked far easier than an engine in an ICE. Most EV drivers are nor stupid and are not charging to 100% with ones they own, maybe not Rapid charging either. Those like me with a car with a small battery and crap range might be. Those Business / Commercial drivers of lease cars, or Motability owned EV's might not be. 'I do not care', just as i never did with my last TDI on a lease from Motability'. Do not get landed with my EV when it goes to auction, but then it is probably staying with me beyond the 3 year lease unless the battery condition does become poor with my charging to 98%.

Arm yourself with Leafspy or similar tool, plug it in and read the SoH value. Job done. Just buy one with average miles, give or take. As long as it's being used most days, it wouldn't matter what percentage it has been charged to. Many manufacturers are now providing useful battery certificates, Unlike Leaf battery check, the VW battery certificate contains EVERYTHING needed to judge battery condition:

The Kamiq is a mini SUV and the dsg7 box is superb so far.

That's interesting. Since deleting them now is illegal I'll leave it as is and drive it 😁 Probably get some good tyres instead.

Think hard before trading in a decent ice car for an ev. In my opinion pre touchscreen/lane assist etc etc ice cars are going to become very valuable and personally I’m getting back on that train before it’s too far out of my station. Unfortunately I’m in a position as a private owner where the ev car I bought 16 months ago now costs considerably more to operate so the numbers don’t add up anymore. Somehow, it seems due to Covid, Putin and The Tory Government my income is being outstripped by inflation and I found myself in the bizarre situation where I have no idea what my electricity, gas and mortgage are going to be in 6 months but right now I do know my Enyaq is worth the same as I paid for it. This is despite having 25k on the clock. In fact it is worth thousands more than I paid for it, but it’s trade price was actually £500 more, so accounting for interest on the pcp Ive run it for over a year and walked away for practically nothing. Things as they are I decided to cash out and will be back in a fossil/ice asap. When I got it, with cheap electricity and occasional free charging at work, there was about £100 a month cost to me over running my petrol octavia which was closing in on 100k miles, I was happy to pay this as a premium for having a nice car which had no tailpipe emissions. Now, charging on rapids costs as much as buying fuel. Charging at home was still ok for me but my fixed energy deal ends in May 23 and will multiply by an unknown factor. Fixed mortgage deal ends next year as well… My leisure trips to Cornwall, The Lakes, Peak District etc became as expensive as driving a petrol car. Add into that mix that the Enyaq absolutely devoured a set of tyres in 25k miles, and they are not cheap - absolute best price was £165 each fitted. I’ve never got less than 40k out of car tyres and 16” are £75 for a reasonable make. Personally I had 2 bad experiences with charging. One coming out of Manchester where I wasted an hour finding an operating or unblocked charger. Stooging around an unfamiliar city typing postcodes into the sat nav isn’t fun. Second one was the ev’s Achilles heel - family emergency. Jump in with 80%, fast run to a hospital 70 miles away, run about to and from railway stations picking up relatives and suddenly at a very stressful point you find yourself Googling rapid chargers to find there are only 2 within 10 miles. One is broken and the other one occupied by a leaf whose driver informed me that she was needing 30 minutes and I was lucky with my timing as she’d waited for 2 previous cars to charge ! The infrastructure isn’t there yet, its one thing planning a journey on your sofa with a cup of tea and working out where in an ev charger desert like Devon or Cornwall you can get a charge but on the hoof it is hard work (and the Enyaq sat nav which supposedly finds the nearest charger is no help). A couple of weeks later and the Enyaq is in for the much anticipated software update. Got chatting with sales, and an offer is made which I decide to sleep on. Picked the car up and the update isn’t an improvement, so decided there and then to sell it back. So it’s gone. There’s clearly a demand for them, hence the good price, but I don’t get BIK. Beat my record for lowest percentage on the hospital run though 😬

Got told today car has arrived with the dealer 🥳 and shows in the Skoda App garage waiting to be activated. So that means 4 weeks from production week to delivery in Ireland for anyone counting. Temptation is there to pick it up now for the Christmas road trips but will look forward to collection in the new year with a fresh "231" reg.

Do that. because a person with a keyboard can be anyplace around the world. And Communication Managers and Resolution managers at Skoda / VW UK need not know that much about cars or much else. Default is deny, put off, rubber you, put you back in the hands of the dealership, wear you down. eg. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/502758-dsg-advice-request http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/508567-suggestions-on-where-to-purchase-a-spare-car-key http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/508519-advice-on-7-speed-gear-box

Interesting, I've been dealing via email and the people corresponding back to me seem to be from foreign lands. Next time I get an email I'll ask where they are.

Don't go for high power versions. They don't last anywhere as long. Cheap standard fit ones are best for this application. Also as fog lights they won't flood the space with light when needed (in fog) so you will actually be able to see.

That car is just another level Lofty ! Well done. Them pictures of the underside wow ...! You will need a covered trailer now for the show season! I have to hang my head in shame every time I see this thread as mine has to be the rattiest, dirtiest and unkept vRS in the world....! 😞

Both good guesses. So I’m the process of making my MY17 superb sportline seats to the highest spec possible. so that means both front seats will be heated, ventilated, massage, electric and memory. As many will know, most of these things didn’t come on a 2017 superb, let alone on the sportline seats. fair bit of custom work is going into it, next hurdle to tackle is the ventilated mats and seat cushions. but the above is basically - to get the memory version of the passenger seat controls they want £190 for the controls new, or roughly £100 second hand. as I had a right side memory seat controls and a left hand non memory. I stripped the parts from the right module, desoldered everything and flipped the circuit board round, refitted everything in the left hand housing. Then found out the placement of the centre switch is not symmetrical so couldn’t be flipped round, hence having to drill holes straight through the circuit board and use link wires. Everything is secure and I will probably go back over the work with a nicer quality wire but for proof of concept it works as intended. And saves me £100-£190!

How do you tell a CRA is lying to you? You can hear their voice.

At the moment ev's dont interest me enough to want to buy one, for me range needs to improve plus the list price is stiil to high, but i was thinking about this the other day, given that most people nowadays lease/ pcp etc when buying a new car, and most of these cars get handed back after 3 or 4 years etc Batteries for ev's are expensive and degrade more if not looked after, but if you know your only gonna have the car for 2 or 3 years , would you care ?, most ev drivers want the longest range they can get out of the batteries, so most of these cars will be charged to 100 % all the time which is obviously not ideal long term but as the car gets handed back in 3 years or so's time , it's someone elses problem 😂

This is good for me, in a way, if I fancy hoovering up some ULEZ exiled cars... a Favorit I know of may be coming up...

@maxychat many thanks for Your kind words. I just went crazy, and bought a maxi dot instrument panel from the very same car as the radio came from. Im aware, that speedometer will have to be coded to be used with my car. However, the "Wizard of VAG" wont be able to say its not going to work as BCM, Instrument panel and radio will be from the same car. thats theoreticaly, as practicaly I already have 1S0937090J BCM and the car ive got the bits from has exactly the same BCM, therfore I dont see a point of replacing it 😏 When it comes to pairing individual units, Im wondering if it would be easier to perform certain tasks with units "out-of-the-car" 🤔 On the linked video it looks so easy... I have read Your thread on the radio retrofit, I have ordered the required USB cable as the one I have (also from Ali) seem to not work at all. Thats the problem with Ali, sometimes You wait for the order fro weeks and when it arrives its either completely different to what You have ordered or simply dont work. But, the price relfects the quality.

I’m still coming up the EV Learning Curve and I’m not picking on Vredestein. Just using their web page info. 1. EVs are big heavy buggers - harder on tyres than lighter vehicles. 2. Hi torque off the line may be fun smoking the other guy at the lights, but is gonna burn more rubber than a less torquey car. 3. Less rolling resistance suggests less grip than a tyre with more rolling resistance. 20” heavy duty tyres ain’t gonna be cheap.

Could also be worth having a good look locally, near battery, to see if there are any areas of wiring abrasion/damage, before getting to the scuttle. Best of luck tomorrow.

No worries. I read this thread this morning and your contra argument was hitting the nail on the head as to exactly why I’ve gone back, so I had to update on my sale asap ! Luckily I’ve had a good year out of the experience and the money I put into it is back for me to get a vehicle for “cash”. The government is going about a move to EVs in completely the wrong way. Banning new ice cars from 2030 won’t do anything except turn us into a version of Cuba where instead of 1950s and 60s cars there will be 2010 onwards vehicles being repaired and run for decades.

Just to confirm, fuse 10 on the battery fuseholder, not in the cabin? That wire goes through the firewall behind the wiper motor, bottom left (12 way) connector of the left group (as viewed from engine bay), pin 6. Connector labelled P. Seems much more likely the wire is damaged in the engine bay than the cabin, but worth a look while you've got trim off to see if there's anything obvious near the XS4 connector.

@Antgj Rear mats. Photos 3 & 4 of 4. You can also get the same type of mat for the boot. I didn't get one of those. I went for a rubber mat as I thought it would be better for when I have the dogs in the back.

@Antgj These two photos are of the front passenger mat fitted in the case. Excuse the dirt / mess.

Brilliant info….am on it. Fuse 10 was fine…..this is my module….trying to find a long wire to ring it through…..

If you could get test meter probes up the wire entries of the relevant pins with it in-situ, and measure battery voltage, it would suggest both wires are intact. If you don't see batt voltage, try again with a different earth point for the meter, to test whether that skinny earth is at fault. This is the connector at the onboard supply control unit, but it's physically mounted with wires downward, unlike in the image. As we look at it here, pin 1 is top left, descending in columns of 3, so pin 5 is second column middle row, pin 8 third column middle.

That wire ends up at pin 8 of the connector marked XS4 on the onboard supply control unit under the dashboard, above accelerator pedal. Worth also checking a fuse in the battery fuseholder that may be relevant, it is one of the blade fuses to the right of the strip fuses (hiding under a black plastic cover), fuse number 10 (5 amp), this has a wire that ends up at pin 5 of the same connector of that control unit.

Yes it did. Sold the car a few years ago though

Hey @P3P5I yeah as mentioned above it's does data plus charging but slowly. From an iPhone/iPad it's reads all the song names or audiobooks etc. The charging is so slow if an iPad mini has a dead battery it's unable able to start it up annoyingly. On a long journey the iPad mini would lose a few % battery but it's fine as long as it has a bit to start with. On my set up Apple Music and Google Maps come through the data cable from the iPad Mini but it's also connects at the same time to my iPhone via Bluetooth for calls. ie it connects to both. I tested this today by disconnecting the iPad mid call and it just lost the music and maps but didn't drop the call.

It's not that intelligent, basically if the front wipers are on at a certain speed it will automatically turn on the intermittent rear wipe. It's reasonably useful (although I'm quite capable of turning it on myself!). It's also useful to be able to disable it if you have a bumper mounted bike carrier which usually interact with the rear screen too.

Yeah, I understand having the option available, the fix I was referring to was having one setting that doesn't appear to do anything and two options (wipe in reverse and auto wipe) controlled by the one setting.

Battery issue! ha tell me about it. I bought mine during lockdown, stop start worked for about 2 weeks. Been back to dealers many times. They actually charge the battery for you then test it. NO FAULTS FOUND surprisingly!!!1 After a day the stop/start packs up again. Tried to trace if the battery had been charged as per Skoda policy for cars left on forecourt.......Of course it was charged! I use a dashcam. that whats stopping the stop/start, your leaving it on all the time and the battery is draining. NO IM NOT. been there done that. Stop start is useless anyway but now fuel has gone through the roof it might be nice if it worked, anyway if something is fitted to a vehicle then whatever it is it should work!

Although EV (electric vehicle) spec tyres to help deal with heavier vehicles have been around for a while, haven’t until now been able to get an all season For those interested Vredestein have now launched Quatrac Pro EV https://www.vredestein.co.uk/content-hub/news/car-suv-van/first-all-season-tyre-fully-dedicated-to-electric-vehicles/

Same here. Mine is always on. Actually the air management is so good in this car that all I change is the temperature. Nothing else.

I did my own with engine running for stable power. 20-60 mins on car battery could be too long and not a good idea as too many control units gobble power. I always say to have battery support, or start the engine, but don't start the engine during update process as that's asking to break it.

Problem solved. It was the gps antenne plug

So today I drove of a small branch, whacked the underside of the car, immediately dashboard light - Skoda oil sensor workshop! Took it to my local mechanic and sure enough the branch had whacked the connector and ripped out a wire. They were able to reconnect it but the block, which is part of the wiring loom is damaged. Light is off for now. Allieexpress to the rescue and a new block connector on the way from China for €5. Moral of the story, don't drive over a small branches!

Sorry for delay but have been in hospital with sepsis (I have cancer and I'm very prone to these sort of things) Hallelujah, yes! The lack of output signal was a red herring (due to faulty test equipment) and the problem turned out to be a knackered high-pressure fuel pump. It seems that a faulty fuel sensor caused the pump to overload and fail. Once (expensively) replaced all fell into place and she's running like an absolute sweetheart now.

You guessed correctly, 0480 is the latest version. Will PM you a link now.

Fairly sure its coming from suspension as the noise becomes excessive when I drive over a specific part of road slowly which has lots of small undulations in it- if I drive over the same part of the road at higher speed the noise lessens considerably. I have new Bilstein shocks to fit next spring - I believe Sachs shocks are oil filled and Bilstein are gas filled - correct me if I am wrong? Maybe these new shocks will make some difference. Joking apart but the design of these cars and the reduction in sound deadening, light panels etc is the problem which wont ultimately go away even with copious amounts of sound deadening hence the mk4 which is a new platform with lots of modifications to improve noises and it is a much better car in this respect.

Maybe time to cut out the unnecessary comments now and stick to things that are relevant!

Nope 😂 But you cant say I didnt try!

@Dandy_k @Predatora @Silentnoise You all have firmware links via PM

Finally joined the club today! 2016 L&K 280 estate 52k miles, quartz grey, pan roof & brown leather interior, odd colour combo imo but likely helped the price! Thanks to this forum for the incredible advice and info! Looking forward to adding TSR & HBA plus a few other tweaks.

It’s 2017 model with the exhaust flaps. No, I just put the vRS badge on from Kopacek for the extra 20 horsepower! I also recently did a chrome delete on it with wrap (by a professional) and some small plasti dip on the badges and chrome grille strips.

it is the time of the year again for misting issues to start up again🙄

Greetings. No real progress this week apart from application of a Gel sticker which apparently is all the rage by kids in “the know” #instagramw@nker. Front exhaust hanger has been made by my fair hands and I’m welding that together Tuesday so that’ll finish off the exhaust completely.

☝️ meant to say thanks for the above advice 👍

https://vwts.ru/skoda/octavia3/skoda-octavia-3-body-repairs-interior-eng.pdf

If you're planning on keeping the car for a few more years, and doing some potential DIY work, then I'd recommend you download the workshop manuals. For less than £10 (7 Euro's plus a little tax) you can get what you need from erWin Skoda. Repair manuals and wiring diagrams are invaluable.

The BCM needs to have one digit of the "serial number" coding line altered to tell the BCM that a new battery has been fitted & to forget all the old learnt values. If the battery is a different Ah or construction it also needs the respective coding lines in the BCM altered also.. I did a big thread on this nearly 7yrs ago....all info for MQB platform cars in first post:- (1) How to retro-fit a bigger capacity battery to a Mk7 Golf | GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum Quote:- VCDS coding required From the Main screen:- Select Control Module [Select] [19-CAN Gateway] Advanced Functions screen:- [Adaptions-10] New value choice screen:- Change the following four channels, inputting the relevant data about the new battery. IDE03256-MAS06105-Battery adaptation-Rated battery capacity IDE03256-MAS06106-Battery adaptation-Battery technology IDE03256-MAS06107-Battery adaptation-Battery manufacturer IDE03256-MAS06108-Battery adaptation-Battery Serial Number When you click on "Battery technology" (using VCDS 21.3.0) a drop down list appears with the following options (= actual meaning):- Wet = Standard Lead Acid Fleece = Standard A.G.M. Wickel6V Wickel12V Ultracap Gel = Standard Gel Lead Acid Lithium ions = Standard LiFePO4 EFB = Standard E.F.B. Binary - AGM = "Bipolar" A.G.M. type EFB+ = E.F.B. "Plus" type Not_assigned_10 Not_assigned_11 Not_assigned_12 Not_assigned_13 Not_assigned_14 Unknown According to various sources of information, including numerous car scans & threads on Ross-Tech, "Fleece" is for standard AGM batteries, "EFB" is for standard EFB batteries, & "Wet" is for standard lead acid batteries, as these settings are used at the factory. The setting of "Binary - AGM" is apparently for specialist "Bipolar AGM" batteries! Also the drop down list is from VCDS & not generated by your car's BCM, therefore, your car may not support all the options on the list, & the BCM will reject the value when you tell it to accept it! Battery BEM codes are now redundant with the above separate channels. The most important channels are:- Rated battery capacity, Battery technology, & Battery Serial Number. For the Battery Serial Number, just change one digit of the old one. This channel tells the BCM that a new battery has been installed & to relearn the new battery & forget any “learnt values” for the old battery!

New connectors and 3 min coding.