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I have my own old school manual tyre changing machine, I've used it loads for 13" & 15" trailer tyres but all were metal rims, I have a slow deflation on an alloy rim on my Yeti, it might be a slow puncture, bead leak or maybe a porous rim, none of which scenarios have I ever had a good outcome with at a tyre fitters, due mainly I believe to time pressure, also as the tyres are approaching the wear marker I know that in France they will make up an excuse that the tyre is not repairable and lie and say that the law says that they must replace both tyres on the same axle. So I am going to bite the bullet and see if I can demount and remount the tyre on the manual machine with the lever bar without wrecking the alloy rim, the car is a shed now anyway so not a big deal. It will be ironic that after shelling out to tyre fitters for 30 years plus because they have the machines that supposedly will not damage an alloy rim to find that I do less damage than they frequently do doing mine manually!

Like everything if you don't know what it is you will likely not miss it. I have a FL230 without VAQ and I can't say I miss the option (I don't know how it feels to have it). That said I'm not wanting to use my car on track days and the limited spirit that can be applied to UK roads in this incarnation is still plenty impressive. Which is another point... don't restrict your search to the 245 this will give you more choice. The difference in BHP is not enough to notice and as someone else has pointed out, can be resolved with a remap if needed. As for the options that folks are pointing out. They are all "must haves".... problem is together they are mostly "unobtainium". You will end up compromising. You will see a high mileage car with all the whistles but it's mileage will scare you to death; you will see a low mileage car at a great price but is won't have any of the "must haves"; the car won't be the right colour, won't have the right wheels, will have everything except for heated seats OR it will be the holy grail but the price tag will put it out of reach. Test drive - find a car you think you will like, make sure it fulfils as many of your criteria as you can live with - even none if the price tag, mileage and service history is right. They are all good to drive. The one thing I personally can't live without...... DSG.

I use blackcircles and a local back street tyre shop where the owner does most of the work. No stupid upselling or carelessness. Support your local small business!

Came across this thread by chance and so glad I did! I have had my 64 plate TDI VRS hatch for just over 2 years and the boom was so bad especially at lower speeds round town that my youngest even mentioned it to me. I had fitted the harmonic damper as previously mentioned here obviously to not much avail and had just learned to put up with the noise. So when I saw this thread I became interested in it again. I happened to jump back to page 50 and saw the comments on the boot stoppers and possibly adjusting them so thought I would give it a try. They were sitting sort of half way so I adjusted them last night to as high as they would go. Unbelievably it seems to have worked for me, the booming has all but stopped, one of the lucky ones. The only thing now is it makes the clanking noise coming from the rear suspension a bit more noticeable. 🙈 That's next on the fix list!

Sounds good to me 👍 Anyone who says WD's no good, never tried letting it soak in, then setting fire to it! 😁

Thanks for the helpful advice guys, I found some GT85 in cupboard last night and gave it a blast of that to soak overnight. This morning it still wouldn't budge but I heated the metal pipe up with a lighter until it started to smoke a bit and gave it a good yank, then it finally came out 😁 Managed to re-position the guide tube as well but installation of the new cable wasnt exactly straightforward, the metal clip was a bit of a bugger due to the new cable having a thicker outer sheath, so took a bit of wrestling to get it to clip in. I noticed in the skoda manual it says to use a new one each time it is removed but it seems to be secure enough now. So a job that I thought was going to take an hour ended up being about 7 hours in total, but will need to do the other side soon as although it is not damaged it has got stretched over time and the balancer is now at full tilt. I did buy a pair of cables anyway as had expected that. Hopefully with lessons learnt the other side will be easier 🤞

Whatever you do don't follow that advice, I did and was on the loo for 24 hours!

Given the very good in house IT, this could be software glitch in the infotainment system. For about £7.50 roughly, you could get on erWin Skoda and poke around in the workshop information. You could grab all the repair/wiring information in a mere minute or two, then using your VIN look at workshop information online. You want to open up the 'Red Book' section that has TPI recalls/campaigns, and then look down the lists below for gearbox information. Tip, save your VIN into a text file. Make sure you have a working PDF printer choice, and then print off all the information to PDF files.

Music for the MkIII was easy – just poke a SD card in the slot near the CD unit in the glovebox. MkIV only has USB-C, but we're a USB-A home (PC not Apple). Tracked down a double ended 64GB flash drive, one end USB-A, the other USB-C. Noted it was preformatted FAT32, loaded the music from the USB-A end and plugged the -C end into the car – but Columbus could only see 3 tracks out of 500 !! More head scratching, then decided to reformat to NTFS – and BINGO. So, ensure NTFS formatted ! Thanks for the pointers in previous topics.

I'd give it overnight for the spray to soak in and do its job, then have another crack at it. I'm a big believer in "give it a spray and walk away". Don't get too far into using the "right" sort of spray, we've all got our favourites. I had a polo one that wasn't playing ball a while ago. I cut the cable just after the tube, pulled the cables core out and was able to crush and generally fettle what was left of the shroud out where it was sticking in the back of the tube. The guides are made out of fairly thin metal, so if you've been pulling at it too much, there's a fair chance it will have gone out of shape, so it might be a battle to get the new cable in. The guide tubes aren't expensive and are easy to change. It's worth putting a bit of lubrication on the outside of the new cable shroud before you run it into the tube.

Bought this Blue Bullet in August 2022 with 32.000 km...... Denmark.

Hi all, Two weeks ago my girlfriend purchased another car. It wasn’t economically responsible to drive a Golf TDI anymore, so she wanted a smaller car to save on everything. Do we bought this little guy: it is a 2013 Skoda Citigo 1.0 MPI 60bhp. Weird spec with no front fogs, electric mirrors. But with seat heating, airconditioning and cruise control. But the lady is happy! The first mods were installed yesterday: - Facelift BCM (2017 - 1S0937090F) - Facelift cluster/speedometer - Facelift radio This is the actual interior now: All works! Component Protection is paired with the cluster, just like the original facelift Citigo’s got. Next parts are on their way too, facelift taillights: Now in need for a leather wrapped steering wheel. Plastic is ok, but it is a bit worn.

I would be amazed if the car has rusted that badly in a year, I'd get a second opinion if I were you. The garage is scaremongering, I'm just not sure why.

Timpsons can’t do it due to it being high spec with virtual dash, well respected local company also can’t do it. Skoda quoted £330 for part and around £70 for the labour.

So i took them down a notch and can confirm I’m much happier. the white adjustment screws on top on the lights are what you need with a 6mm hex / allen key. the ones near the centre of the car do left and right alignment (don’t mess with these, is my advice) the ones near the sides of the car do the up and down. Take it easy though, one full rotation doesn’t look like much if you’re pointing at a nearby flat surface, but makes a big difference on the road. i can no longer see the silhouette of the driver in front’s ears on road signs ahead, and the full beams seem to point ahead now and not slightly skyward as before. I’ve restarted the car a few times since and can confirm the change has remained. i think if you’ve got a problem with any of the individual 4 light units pointing the wrong way, or the matrix not working correctly, then this is unlikely to help. For that, you’ll likely need a proper dealer calibration, as mentioned by a previous poster.

I have no sunroof! It is not that.......?

Mine was doing the exact same thing, which resulted from the door membrane not being replaced after it was torn open to fix a busted window regulator. 2" of water in the rear left footwell, which took an absolute age to dry out, even in Summer. Thankfully the tears were fairly clean and comparatively easy to tape back together again, but really any thick plastic stuck down along the appropriate lines should suffice.

Pretty sure only pre-FL 230 and FL 245 got the VAQ, if it's a pre-FL 220 or FL 230 then it won't have a VAQ... The VAQ is basically a hydraulically operated clutch pack between the right hand drive shaft and differential cage. By adjusting the pressure on the plates, it can transfer torque across the front axle. A vRS (and other Octavia models) without VAQ will have 'EDL' which is a brake based system that applies braking force to the spinning wheel(s). If heated seats are on your list, maybe look for '67 or '18 plate 245's. When the 245 was first released the was an 'edition' spec with the following extras:

This isn't compatible with MQB-Evo as the gateways are different. You may get away with fitting it elsewhere as it only requires power, ground & connection to the correct lin-bus. However the MQB-evo KLR modules are different so I'm unsure how you'd get on

Decided to go ahead and I had the tyres fitted this morning. Chalk and cheese. The staff were polite, efficient and the garage was clean and tidy. In and out in 45 mins. I’m getting the wheel refurbed tomorrow and will submit the receipt for a refund; they’ve also agreed to a £100 goodwill refund on the tyres. I won’t be using them again. Tyres are great, but will report back after a few hundred miles, as brand new ones are always quieter and generally drive far better than old, irrespective of make/type.

Just had a call from the salesman at my dealer. He tells me my order has been accepted by the factory and expects further news on build shortly. Is the genuine good news or just sales and marketing flim flam? 1.4 PHEV ordered feb 22.

@john999boy maxpowder.co.uk in Apsley. Prices inc VAT below. Extra £10 if you leave the car with them.

Hi there, not a regular forum poster but used to lurk here for the useful info when I last had an Octy, and on this thread in particular for the last year or so. So I thought it’s about time to share my story. I ordered an SE Technology PHEV estate, with ACC and winter pack, through VWFS in October 2021 on a PCH contract. They said it would likely be built July 2022 for delivery in August. I was told in the summer that it was now likely to be built in September. No biggie given the ongoing issues, I thought, but I was already steeling myself for disappointment. I was then told it had been allocated a build week (41) but that this was mysteriously cancelled by the factory. The supplying dealer says he has no idea when the car is now likely to be built. I’ve extended the PCH on my current car which VWFS are being very flexible over, but it’s deeply frustrating. Ordinarily I’d walk away, but comparing the deal I agreed to what is currently being offered in the market, I feel I’d be a fool to join the back of someone else’s queue for a lesser, or much costlier car.

These are still turning up. Cheap Elegance here. Shame about the general condition EU56 VZP https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/518162480327205

If it wipes well, why would you care how it stands in the bottom most curved part of the windshield ?

HI JR Thanks for the response I will try it if I get 5 mins I will get someone to video the issue so that you can see it for yourself

The loom repair kits are probably the quickest and most effective.. I was between jobs at the time and being a tight arse and bought enough cable to do all 4 doors though I only repaired the front door looms. I took the door cards off.

Would just like to recommend Pete for window motor repair needs. Got me back my electric windows and gives top-class service. A true asset to this forum.

I had same with both cables gently use some heat on the tube guides the plastic inserts melt quickly and pull straight out.

Try swapping coil packs, 1-2 and 3-4 to see if the misfires change cylinders when it happens again.

Have recently had to replace the resistor for the fan speed control, but have also noticed that the fan is very noisy with the bearings squeeling. Given the complexity of changing the fan motor I have gone down a different "experimental" route whereby I have removed the foam pad between the lower edge of the bottom cubby and firewall from which, by lying on my back under the dash, I can see the fan motor case which is a round plastic moulding that contains the motor. I have been able to get a drill in with a 3mm drill bit and drill a hole through the casing through which I have sprayed oil - silicone type as this had a tube on that was long enough to get into the drilling - that may lubricate the bearings OR kill the motor. I will keep you updated on outcome.

+ 1 for the GT85 or PlusGas. A home-made one from a marine forum, but I haven't tried it - mixture of ATF and Acetone - warning do not use heat with this one!

Forget Water Dispersant 40; use PlusGas or GT85 instead.

Youll be moving from an all in one system to a mib2 system. For this youll need a fakra hsd cable, a mib extension cable as well as a new glovebox. I hope youre also aware its far from plug and play - component protection needs removing, swap codes, correct datasets, correct adaptations

That’s mad! I had that on both my MK3s years ago. Can’t believe it’s not fixed yet.

Hi Scoffer, I'd suggest something more aggressive in the line of release fluids.

Smart engineers are limited by greedy accountants and management. As easy as that. And cause of that is the same all over the world - stakeholder "cult". You're not supposed to make customer happy. You're even not supposed to work for the good of the company as such. You're supposed to bring profit here and NOW, for the next quarterly report. Never mind the future. So they are looking for cheaper solutions, cheaper materials, cheaper vendors, cheaper everything. That's actually not a bad thing. Unless you buy "out-of-the-box" solutions (which in this case is not possible really), outsourcing doesn't really work. It's cheap(er) though... Depends on what you have driven before. Tyre noise for me is on par or lower than in other cars i used to own. Also on par with i.e. CLA Merc i've been considering. Haven't experienced break pedal noise or fuel tank noise in O4.

^^^ Good stuff. The OP was about a diesel so an engine without spark plugs.

I have a 2018 245 VRS. Been great so far. Love the car.

Cool, we went to the same guy! (Bonny) This was taken a few minutes after it was all done:

Just had the same problem this morning. On my way from Leeds to Manchester on the m62. Started to get audible alarm for exceeding the speed limit. On checking the sat nav it thought I was in Horrogate. I also had the same problem with the ACC which kept slowing me down as I was passing cars along with travel assist which was only showing single track road instead of the usual 3 lanes on a motor way

I’ve just bought a Skoda fabia Monte Carlo as my first car

Threw mine back a the dealer in June because they simply couldn't fix the random errors on it. Basically swapped for the hybrid version, which was a huge mistake, it then spend 3 months with them trying to fix a 12V battery issue where the battery was nearly always flat (turns out this is also a known problem with a specific fix, but it wasn't applicable to my car so they couldn't do it!!!). Think they have masked the problem now rather than fixing it as I sporadically get a 12V warning but it disappears within seconds so can't get a picture of it. This generation of Octavia is in my experience useless, they have rushed it out and gone as cheap as possible on the software, hoping the next generation is better. I don't think the VAG group has fully recovered from dieselgate yet.

I've pretty much seen when one goes they generally follow. Frustrating, it's going to be scraped not going to spend thousands on a car worth just over 2k, looking at a 17 golf GTi now lol. The 2 year warranty was swinging me on 5here approved. Over the 1 year for Skoda.

You can see in the charts below, that the Karoq (Front Wheel Drive) has 225/40R19 tyres when the 19" option is specified. For someone with a back problem, these are completely unsuitable. Changing to 215/60R16 tyres fitted to 6Jx16 ET43 5/112 57.1 rims (this is a standard tyre and rim combination on the Karoq (front wheel drive) will make the ride a lot softer and more comfortable. Make sure you choose tyres with soft and flexible sidewalls to get the maximum improvement. Skoda Karoq 2018 1.5TSI (Front Wheel Drive) – Generation: NU7 [2017 .. 2022] – Market: EUDM – Power: 148 hp | 110 kW | 150 PS – Engine: 1.5L, DADA, I4, Petrol – Options: SE, SE L, Ambition, Executive, Style, SportLine, Premium – Center Bore: 57.1 mm – PCD: 5x112 – Wheel Fasteners: Lug bolts – Wheel Tightening Torque: 140 Nm – Thread Size: M14 x 1.5 – Trim Production: [2017 .. 2021] Tire Rim 215/60R16 95V 6Jx16 ET43 2.2 215/55R17 94V 7Jx17 ET45 2.2 215/50R18 92V 7Jx18 ET45 2.4 225/40R19 93W 8Jx19 ET45 2.4 235/40R19 96W 8Jx19 ET45 2.4 Skoda Karoq 2018 1.5TSI (Four Wheel Drive) – Generation: NU7 [2017 .. 2022] – Market: EUDM – Power: 148 hp | 110 kW | 150 PS – Engine: 1.5L, DADA, I4, Petrol – Options: SE, SE L, Ambition, Executive, Style, Scout, SportLine – Center Bore: 57.1 mm – PCD: 5x112 – Wheel Fasteners: Lug bolts – Wheel Tightening Torque: 140 Nm – Thread Size: M14 x 1.5 – Trim Production: [2018 .. 2021] Tire Rim 225/55R17 97V 7Jx17 ET45 2.4 225/60R16 98V 6Jx16 ET43 2.3 225/50R18 95V 7Jx18 ET45 2.4 225/45R19 92W 8Jx19 ET45 2.4 https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/karoq/2018/#trim-15tsi-eudm-148

PM

There's a NAV button so it's an Amundsen.

Mine was the offside rear wheel speed sensor which is integrated into the wheel bearing so it was £500 at Marshalls Barnstaple. Not sure about the cost if it is a front wheel speed sensor - you need a proper scan to know which wheel speed sensor is faulty.

PM

Yes, there is ACC and it is activated. I checked it, but when I press the button, nothing happens, not even a message as if the button is not activated or not available 😢