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Let's start this post with providing some context. A couple of month's ago I purchased a 2015 (Series 2) Skoda Superb 'Tour de France' Estate 2.0L Diesel 4X4. It had covered 170k miles, had a full service history and was in good condition. It was not perfect and needed a few, relatively inexpensive parts to bring it up to scratch. I am reasonably handy with the spanners and have VCDS and Autel (Pro level) diagnostics equipment. One of the issues was a battery that was clearly on the way out. It was the original VAG badged 68 amp AGM Varta battery but it had done extremely well to last this long! I purchased a replacement 70amp AGM Varta Battery from Tayna Batteries. Now for the adaption on Channel 4. Having fitted the battery, I used VCDS to enter the new battery's adaption values. The original battery was recorded as 068 JCB 1111111111 18 digits including the spaces (1 space = 1 digit) are required. The code for Varta is VA0 (that's zero not capital 'O'). There are plenty of posts / You Tube videos that suggest you enter 'O' not '0' (zero) after VA for a Varta battery. They also suggest that you end the sequence of 1's with a 2. This is what I did, the new adaption values were accepted and I assumed that everything was ok. The big problem here is that whatever you enter, providing you use the correct format, will be accepted, lulling you into a false sense of security that what you have input has been accepted and has adapted your new battery! If you have an AGM battery or equivalent, needed for the start / stop function, the adaption code (the series of 1's after the space, after JCB or VA0 is in binary. Entering the number '2' will be accepted but it is not a binary number and will not result in your new AGM battery being adapted. SO WHAT! Not a problem if your new battery does not become drained. You will not notice any issues and will probably be none the wiser! The problem is that your battery generator function will not be operating as you have not adapted your new battery correctly. If your new battery becomes drained below say 11v, your battery warning light will come on but before the battery warning light comes and the voltage had dropped to just above this level, some of your functions may start playing up. Examples of this may include power steering working intermittently and heater blower fans not functioning. The battery generator function works like a relay and allows the battery to charge to its optimum level. If the battery generator is not functioning, due to the battery not being adapted properly, it will never charge beyond its current value, whatever that may be. In my case I installed an aftermarket head unit, amplifier and component speakers. Testing the system (with the engine off), but the ignition on, must have depleted the battery. This morning, the car was iced up. I started it with heater blower on full and rear window heater on. The battery warning light came on and did not go out, despite a 45 mile journey down the M1. Luckily for me, I had my Autel Pro diagnostics scanner on me so I interrogated the live data. This showed that the battery was not charging above 10.7V. I went into the battery's function adaption screen, cleared the value I had input originally, when I installed the new Varta 70amp battery and input the following: 070 VA0 1111111111 This, when saved, resulted in the battery warning light going off and staying off. The battery also started charging up to its optimal level. Sorry for such a long, rambling post but I hope this can be of help to others.

But it does. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/445467-dsg-equipped-cars-second-thermostat

Have you accidentally set the air on recirculating- I’ve had cars steam up when I’d accidentally done this when cleaning the interior of the car?

So i decided to just replace the DPF, but the one I want to order is out of stock at the moment. In the meantime as a temporary solution, to stop the car from regenerating all the time while never finishing (I get super high fuel consumption driving it like that), I decided to reset the DPF values in VCDS to trick it that it already had a new DPF fitted. Now the measured/calculated soot and ash all seems to be reading 0g. However, this seems to do the trick until I’ve driven continuously for 20-30 min, then I see that idle rpm is yet again at 1k, and radiator fans running after shutting off. So basically: Before reset of DPF values: It will begin to regen instantly as soon as engine is at operating temp After reset of DPF values: It will begin to regen after 20-30 min of driving after reaching operating temp

I had a pinky blue Clubman 2cv and later a white one I fitteda front air dam to both which helped the flat out speed to 75mph I was greatly influenced later when the Citroen Palas (?) 1300 motor was found to be a good fit. They both had the inboard disc brakes

Actual road temperature is an important factor - the compound on winter tyres (Alpine, 3-peaks/M&S) is markedly softer than normal - or even all-season (cross-climate) tyres and definitely give better grip in cold conditions. There are very good, independent tyre tests that consistently support this.

Just because the boot's intact doesn't mean the joint itself isn't worn.

Could you ask your good buddy then?

It's cold outside. The car's been sitting on the drive for over a week as I've been using the van. I wonder if it'll start.....?🤞

Over the years me and my ex have has 3 Skoda's - a 2005 Fabia Ambiente 1.2 hatch, a 2015 Octavia 1.4TSI Elegance estate and an Octavia 1.8TSI L&K hatch. Only 1 expensive repair on them when the right rear wheel bearing failed on the 1.4TSI which caused a loss of ABS and related functions and cost c.£500 to replace at a dealer.

Not a VRS and a different engine series, but my MY16 is a keeper. There, that's probably put a curse on it now 😅

I’d have a look at getting some upper mid range all season tyres on all 4 wheels or if you can stretch to the Goodyear/continental/Michelin all seasons. I suggest this as it sounds like they’re all a bit EOL. Unless you’re racing around in the sunny days then you won’t notice any difference in summer but will benefit in cold/snow.

New tyres IMO.

According to Jurid on autodoc, 256mm front discs were fitted to cars up to and including 95HP. So for the Fabia MK3 1.2TSI 90HP and 1.0TSI 95HP 14" wheel will fits. 175/70R14 fitted to 5Jx14 ET35 5/100 57.1 rims is a standard tyre and rim size on the Fabia MK3. 175/70R14 has the same outside diameter and load index 84 (500kg) as the 185/60R15 tyre size. The 5Jx14 ET35 5/100 57.1 rim was used on cars such as the Fabia MK1/MK2/MK3. The Fabia MK1/MK2 used 165/70R14 tyres on this specification of rim whereas the later Fabia MK3 used 175/70R14 tyres on this specification of rim. Slightly oversize 185/70R14 fitted to the 5Jx14 ET35 5/100 57.1 rims would be a good alternative to 175/70R14 and 185/60R15 and give a super comfy ride. The Fabia MK4 has a 185/70R14 fitted to 5Jx14 ET38 5/100 57.1 option, although not necessarily in the UK where fashion dictates thin rubber bands. Vredestein Quatrac 5 185/70R14 88T https://www.camskill.co.uk/m137b0s7981p144829/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac5_Vredestein_Quatrac_5_-_185_70_R14_88T_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_D_Wet_Grip%3A_C_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_69dB Skoda Fabia MK3 1.2TSI – Generation: Mk3 (NJ) [2015 .. 2022] – Market: EUDM – Power: 89 hp | 66 kW | 90 PS – Engine: 1.2L, CJZC, I4, Petrol – Options: Active, Ambition, Style, Monte Carlo – Center Bore: 57.1 mm – PCD: 5x100 – Wheel Fasteners: Lug bolts – Wheel Tightening Torque: 120 Nm – Thread Size: M14 x 1.5 – Trim Production: [2015 .. 2017] Tire Rim 185/60R15 84H 6Jx15 ET38 2.1 175/70R14 84T 5Jx14 ET35 2.1 215/45R16 85V 7Jx16 ET46 2.1 215/40R17 87T 7Jx17 ET46 2.2 Skoda Fabia 2017 1.0TSI – Generation: Mk3 (NJ) [2015 .. 2022] – Market: EUDM – Power: 94 hp | 70 kW | 95 PS – Engine: 1.0L, CHZB, I3, Petrol – Options: Active, Ambition, Style, Monte Carlo – Center Bore: 57.1 mm – PCD: 5x100 – Wheel Fasteners: Lug bolts – Wheel Tightening Torque: 120 Nm – Thread Size: M14 x 1.5 – Trim Production: [2017 .. 2018] Tire Rim 185/60R15 84T 6Jx15 ET38 2.1 175/70R14 85T 5Jx14 ET35 2.1 215/45R16 86T 7Jx16 ET46 2.1 215/40R17 87T 7Jx17 ET46 2.2 https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/fabia/2017/#trim-12tsi-eudm-89

I’ve had a quick look, started after fitting the braided lines at front, but might not have noticed it before. I’ve recently replaced both drop links and I’ve done a cv before, it’s just not 100% consistent with what I would expect from a cv I’ll have a closer look tomorrow

That's useful for sure! I've booked my in for Friday, the 13th of January... 😅 We'll see what they'll do. Hopefully won't need to use the emergency release by then.

Hydraulic Tappets was another thought I had but I've never heard then that bad. The trouble with diag on chain tensioner most of it is non definitive. The only two definitive tests are measure accross top timing marks for chain stretch. With bottom cover removed make sure chain is not slack!!! Everything else is only persuasive....

That's very helpful thank you. 😊

All videos i found in youtube is in foreign language Russian and Arabic i post that video just to illustrate and say that's a simple solution this magnetic silver part have 2 pins that become loose by temperature and time and they tighten them and put some grease and the selector mechanism work again but anyway your dealer have to take care of it and change the selector mechanism with updated one

With Mk2 Fabia i would put in a matching 17" Wheel and tyre to those on the car and not care about the alloy's as i had so many that were replaced under warranties. If i was going places during festive break periods there would be a pair in the boot of 'All Weather / winter tyres' not Summer / All Season summer bias. Simply because you never know when the weather can change in a few miles from one region to the next let alone a week or so. (Trolley jack as well, wheel brace etc. Also Snow Socks, that can help others maybe get moving and not blocking the road.) Wheels and tyres secured in an not just chucked in obviously....

That could suggest just one of the balls has flat-spotted - or one track is damaged. Is this noise audible on both locks, worse on one lock than the other, or just on one? From my Mk1-2 Mini days, louder noise on one lock indicated wear damage to the joint on the inside of the turn IIRC.

Ridiculous price for a relay!! Many years ago one of the ABS relays on my Citroen failed and I was quoted similar price from main dealer to supply a replacement. "Common fault, can't be dis-assembled and not a serviceable part" they said..... Mmmm, really? Took it apart, removed the rotted-out pin and replaced with a blade from an old fuse. Cost was ...er £0.00. More in line with the topic, all the glow plugs on my 1.6tdi were replaced @ 50k miles. This was before my ownership so can't offer a reason as to why but presumably not too an uncommon event.

14" might not work, okay if the car has 256mm front discs, but not so handy if the car has 288mm front discs, I'd expect the lower powered 1.0TSI will have the smaller brake size and the higher powered 1.0TSI the bigger disc size. I just bought a used set of 4 15" VW Polo 6R alloys for my wife's 2015 6C VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS and put on a set of 185/60 X 15 winter tyres. The one error that I made was, I bought Michelin Alpins, great winter tyres, but they are lasting too long for the winter mileage we cover, next time I'd aim to buy a cheaper less well wearing set as long as the grip performance was just as good!

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The full sized spare tyre should be used but it would be best if it matches the tyre on the other side. I think it's a total waste to have a full sized tyre sitting unused in the boot for 6 years, if you rotate its use with the other four you even overall wear of the tyres and stand more chance that the spare tyre is the same make/model and (nearer) wear as the other four, depending on how and when you change tyres. For decades I didn't carry a spare in many of my cars, just a manual foot pump and a reliable pressure gauge, this seemed to scare and offend some which made me wonder how well they looked after their cars and treated their wheels and tyres, perhaps running them to the very last fraction of a millimetre to the legal limit. But as always each to their own and different strokes for different folks. Personally I have always been able to run on "summer" tyres but that is my choice I am aware of the effects of ambient and road temperatures on them and generally drive where extremes are not that frequent so again different strokes for different folks and each to their own.

There is and never has been such a thing as "Summer Tyres", the phrase was coined by the manufacturers to try and persuade people in warm climates to buy their "Winter Tyres" when they rebranded them from M & S (mud & snow) tyres. Well meaning people now do their dirty work for them on social media. The tyre manufacturers have been lobbying governments for decades to try and make the change obligatory, you would not believe the misinformation and downright lies put out in my country by a media that does not seem capable of asking themselves, am I being had over here, am I propogating untruths? I changed to my new winter wheels this very week, the ones I had bought before in Kent, an urban area that has little or no need of them were absolutely lethal, absolute ditchfinders, I had more grip racing a Caterham during a cold November deluge on slicks.

Would you care to share his wisdom then? There are no laws in my Dodgy Geezer world, just people that like to tell me I am breaking the ones of their imagination!

Personally, I have no concerns using an over 6 year old spare / emergency tyres that have been stored in a spare tyre well in the dark and inflated and subjected to maybe -12*oC in there or 40*oC but never in the sun, salt or roads with petrochemicals. But they certainly spares need inspected, and maybe some will want to pay someone to take it off and scrap it and put on a used tyre.

I have now got the car back after a week away. The garage carried out several checks and replaced the engine control relay which had signs of corrosion on the relay terminals. They then kept the car for a few days and it started on several occasions with no problems.

It is nice with ice on paths and sleet / rain falling and no way am i cycling. The energy goes but as long as free to cheap it matters not much. This is a further 2 miles done. The thing is that it is 45 kWh Usable of a battery. 1 hour on a 7kW battery puts in 6.6 kWh up until 98% now, then it really does not want to take more. It used to though before the update.

Certainly does

The ideal vehicle really for that sort of journey profile, it would beat the hell out of an ICE and its particulate filters, maybe discharge the battery (no difference there) and you would not see any heat from the heater. I am about to do one of those journeys myself but will extend it by going on to do some food shopping.

Low battery on both key fobs?

The car I've always wanted but it's too late now, is a Skoda Fabia vrs SE 2006/7. Gawgus.

Yes. Familiar with that. I had the old design in a gen 2 ea888 in a vrs mk2 facelift. Same engine as mk6 gti. Had the tensioner and chain updated yo revised spec. One of the biggest failures on the old design was the teeth of the ratchet retention failing. Or the band clip that held said teeth in. These locked the tensioner out when no oil pressure (I.e) engine off, to keep tension at startup. This is a gen 3 and the new design tensioner. It doesn't have the old rubbish design ratchet. These have limited problems reported but not out of the question to encounter some problem, especially beyond 100k miles or if timing chain stretch is an issue earlier. It would concern me that there is not enough tension being retained on the rail when engine is off. That's why the sound goes away as soon as hydraulic pressure builds. But if that is the case, and the noise is not something else, it leaves the engine at high risk of skipping chain teeth at startup.. that is how many, many gtis and vRSs died with the old tensioner. Everything was fine until startup one day then - she's dead....

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If they would fit my choice for comfort and our third-world roads (thank you wealthy bankers pensions) would be 14" wheels, as well as potholes there's kerbing, but I don't know how popular the 14" tyres sizes are, which give choice and value. Even with the 15" tyres (185/60 r15 on my wife's car) you need careful selection if you want good comfort, noise and handling, running at eco setting of 35 psi definitely reduces the rolling resistance so presumably helps with mpg but it also makes things a crashy and reduces comfort, noise and handling, we stick to the 30 psi now on more comfortable tyres but we won't see great mileage out of them but I'm used to that. I won't give you a thank you for 16" wheels as I'm not into fashion or filling the wheel arches I prefer the extra room for suspension travel, mud and snow (fortunately I've always been able to use "summer" tyres all year round).

Yeah so first of all my rear window heating stopped working and than dash cam which is connected to rear wiper stopped charging, that made me thinking what was happening but there was no problem with starting the car. And than this message came up so I knew the battery is dead and when I checked the voltage it was 11.3 so it means the alternator wasn't working. And now the alternator is working only sometimes so I'm thinking of a repair if it would be possible because the new one is quite expensive.

I just replaced the flywheel on my Passat 240bhp ( running 290bhp remapped since new) it lasted 160,000 miles. 80k seems a bit low.

Booked in via the skoda.co.uk servicing website, MOT, service, oil change and inspection which was due next month. All fixed priced, which have gone up substantially Declined all unnecessary expensive work because I'm getting rid of the car.

@J.R.I am pleased that you 'Give a ****'. There might well be no law broken, just them acting and trading in a way that Officers of the law or VOSA or whoever will be visiting them as they do. When VOSA do 'Checks' at or in the area of 'Recycle centres, Car Boot Sales, Cattle Markets, Race tracks etc and stopping vehicles and checking them and their trailers and tow bars and licences / waste permits etc the drivers that are then asked who fitted the tow bar or such are usually prepared to say exactly who if there is an issue with it. http://somersettowbars.co.uk/towbars

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. 5mm for fronts then they're probably not that old but it doesn't pay to assume on things like this, have a look for the date of manufacture on them. That doesn't always directly related to when they were fitted of course and tread depth is only one element and the tyres could have had a hard life bumping up and down kerbs, humps potholes. Personally if they're similar to the concrete rears I'd swap out for a new set of four better tyres especially if I was doing a couple miles of motorway a week, but that's just me.

Yeah of course! I'm just asking for experiences, everyone's is different but it gives me a flavour. It's great question actually which year of vrs has been the most reliable? I like the sound of 14 to 17.

Confirm a/c will be disabled by low temperature. As others, you need to crack a window (or the sunroof if fitted) to dump the wet air.

My logic is your car is sealed up, therefore the moisture is stuck. So while your AC is not active in these Temps, you might need to help it 'leave' the car. Just be careful opening window is they are iced up, open it for last few minutes and whack fans up on high speed to get it flowing.

You need 4 special radio removal keys, these can be had on eBay for cheap. slots into 4 holes on the face of the display till it clicks, then screen pulls out. disconnect both plugs replace in reverse order

Possible inlet valves / throttle body all gummed up with carbon?

This would actually be really helpful if you provided the following info: 1. Your model/variant? (iV60/iV80/iV80x) ? 2. The actual correct tyre pressure? 3. The wrong tyre pressure on the label. It's info like that which transforms threads like these from simply blogging, to truly helpful community info sharing.

Thanks for that, the battery is only a couple of years old. The car is at my local garage now and the battery was one of the first things they tested. I am now waiting to hear from them.

I had similar job done recently, 1.6TDI with DSG, but non-4x4. 2.0 should be in the same range. Labour was 200€, but in addition to flywheel change this cost contained also EGR and thermostat change. LUK flywheel was 325€. So as you see, it depends on region and country where you are located. I’m from Estonia.

I think all owners of DCC equipped Superb 3's would love this mod!