Leaderboard

Quick question. Just taken delivery of my new 72-plate 280 L&K and it's missing umbrellas in both driver and passenger doors. When I bought my last one in 2017, it had 'brollys in both doors. I contacted the dealer and was advised that they should come with one umbrella only and that they'd send one to me (hasn't arrived yet). Anyone know if this is correct? I sold my 67-plate 280 L&K last year, after 4 years of thoroughly enjoyable motoring, for no other reason than I fancied a change, maybe to an SUV type thang. I subsequently bought + sold a Mercedes E450, Infiniti QX30, Jaguar E-Pace, Cupra Formentor and Mercedes GLC43. I also test drove some new cars - Volvo XC40, Volvo XC60, Range Rover Evoque, Audi Q3, Audi Q5, Mercedes GLC250 and VW Tiguan. I think that's all of them, may have missed one or two. I did try and get a drive in a Kodiaq VRS, but gave up after utter disinterest by Skoda dealers. I'd previously tried + rejected saloons from Merc / Audi / BMW etc. After all of that and incurring huge buying + selling losses, I returned to the fold with my new 280 L&K a month or so ago. Climbing back in and driving away from the dealership was sheer bliss. I've greatly compressed this summary, which doesn't convey the pain suffered. Thinking there might be something better out there was an expensive mistake.

Don't know what you guys are expecting. I timed it today, it was -10C outside, car was completely covered in frost, I turned everything on (heated windscreen/max/rear) went around the car clearing side windows and headlights, windshield was done defrosting in 4 minutes on the clock, had to sit for about 2 minutes after clearing everything else. Do you guys want everything to be like an F1 pitstop?

Look here:- https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/tyre-alloy-wheel-section/168043-pcd-variation-bolts-aka-wobble-bolts-myth-versus-reality.html Thanks. AG Falco

Did you get the cylinder head skimmed?

Many thanks for all your replies. The dealer has now fitted a new Adblue tank and there have been no further problems. I spoke to someone in the service department (as opposed to a sales person) and she told me that problems can arise if the tank is overfilled or if the level gets too low and advised me to add more Adblue when it gets to 500 miles before empty. On the question of the 1.6 TDI vs the 1 litre petrol, I am still undecided. Up til now a diesel has been the best option but with kids now post university and retirement due next year the pattern of journeys may change making the petrol more appropriate. For now i will keep the diesel which I like very much.

Atlanta rims have a 5/112 PCD and were fitted to the VW Golf MK5. 1K0601025BM Aluminium rim 'ATLANTA' 6,5JX16H2 ET50 5/112 https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/vw/RDW/GOLF/474/6/601/601055

There must be some confusion on units here, 4-5 top ups totalling 200ml means 40-50ml each time, you would need a very small graduated jug to measure that and you certainly would not be able to make out the rise in level on the dipstick from the addition of 40-50ml. 2 litres per year perhaps?

Bare with me on this... Until recently I had a land rover freelander 2, now LR in their infinite wisdom speced the input shaft bearing in the diff a few sizes too small so they wear out, this gives a lovely whine noise when failed not to dissimilar to a to a fubared diff... so worth a listen if you can get the car on a ramp with it in gear. From my info the early Disco Sport and E-joke models they produce, seem to have exactly the same issues before they moved from Haldex with the more recently made ones, so they are running version 4&5 versions of haldex. and now to the point. These Guys have been sorting Haldex systems and associated transmission rebuilds for a while , I've personally used them on my old freelander 1 as they fitted a new PTU unit and countless Freelander 2 owners on the LR forums have been to them for their diffs and pinion bearings rebuilds and replacements if you can diagnose where the noise is coming from within the back end I'm sure these guys could help you. long drive from Scotland but worth it if they help sort it for you. https://www.bellengineering.co.uk/contact-us

Lithuania, it was covered in frost like this But when there is snow it does make it way easier to wipe off the snow too. My main point was that it was pretty damn cold and it still let me go within 5 minutes and I didn't have to scrape it like a barbarian.

I have to say the Skoda heated windscreen is not as good as Fords. My wife's Fiesta clears really quickly, but the wires in the screen are more obvious. The Octavia takes ages, actually sometimes I am not sure it actually clears it before the fan!! Its such a shame because having a decent heated windscreen is a real win.

When I bought my 17" rims (off a Tiguan) they had 215/65/17 tyres instead of the 215/55/17s for the Superb. When I test fitted them out of curiosity they barely fitted in the arches even with the steering dead ahead and the rears almost touched the mudflaps despite only being about 6.5% larger diameter than standard. 245/60/18 is about 12% larger diameter than standard and pretty much the size used on say a Landrover Discovery 3. All of the standard sizes (215/60/16, 215/55/17, 235/45/18, 235/40/19) essentially have the same diameter within a couple of mm. Even when people go for 245/35/20 rims its only about 1.5% bigger than standard.

Folding umbrellas have never lasted long with me, especially when there is wind with the rain. I prefer to carry a more durable smaller golf umbrella and they last for years. I can relate to your search for the perfect car. I had a casual job at our airport for a few months where I was able to drive a lot of different, and many expensive cars over admittedly short distances (about 8km) so it was a bit like speed-dating (or what I would imagine speed-dating to be like). I developed a real dislike of X5s and Toyota Land Cruisers. I found that Porsche, Ferrari and Lambo's were largely overrated and really not good idea in an urban environment and a real pain to park. Audi A8 were raved over by my colleagues but maybe they raised my expectations too high as it did not hit my button nor did the modified AMG G-Wagon. The Tesla S was much more pleasant than I expected but even I got range anxiety driving the thing as there was only 20km range on the thing when it was left with us and I was relieved to plug it in a soon as I could. So what worked for me? Amongst the larger SUV I liked Land Rover Discovery 4's over the Range Rovers and later Land Rovers which I found to be relatively anodyne although very competent. The real surprise was a Jeep Cherokee Trackhawk (6.3 litre V8 supercharged) which had wonderful driving feedback and ride but drank like a sailor on shore leave even at a steady 60kmh. A V8 manual Mustang totally seduced me after coincidentally driving an auto Mustang the car before and being pretty unimpressed (might have been the 2.3l turbo version). An old XJ still had it despite needing a lot of TLC and some brand new Mini Clubman Cooper S were a real buzz (not as good a 'go-kart' feel as the originals though) There was one car that I would have happily driven off with and it was a humble 1.4tsi auto mk 7 Golf hatchback. I had driven a few other golf (including GTI) but for some reason this one stood out as exceptional. Couldn't hear the engine, the gear changes were non perceptible (seriously, I had just driven the Tesla S 20 minutes before) and it handled the urban bumps like a magic carpet so obviously something either wrong or very right with it. I think I must have been pre-programmed by our Octavia but it really was another level experience for some reason. The casual driving job ended when Covid arrived but it has left me with a dilemma as to what will eventually replace our current 2014 'goldilocks' Octavia estate. Probably an EV but preferably not a Musk thing, or Chinese, all of which severely limits my choices here in Australia. Might have to do my own EV conversion?

Had to get 5 people plus luggage, from Cumbria to Oban on Friday night. The A82 was blocked with snow, so we tried the A85. Ended up getting stuck for a few hours near Crianlarich because of a lorry that had slid down a hill and jackknifed. Didn't get to Oban until the "wee small hours" but the car did magnificently! 4x4 with winter tyres. No problem with traction whatsoever - even on the bits that hadn't been ploughed. However, it did do something odd... I noticed the lights weren't great, and assumed the lenses were covered in snow but one of them was switching off periodically. Now earlier this year, I bought an OBDeleven dongle and downloaded the fault codes (which could have been in there for a few years, for all I know) and one of them was something to do with a light (transformer, I think?) overheating. I didn't pay much attention at the time, because the lights seemed to work fine, but I'm wondering if the two are related? I'll plug it back in when I get a minute and see if the code has come back. Does anyone have any experience of overheating lights? (Or light transformers). Only other sour note, was a lorry throwing up a stone and cracking the windscreen, but c'est la vie!

Also worth mentioning that I got a peage auto toll account which was fantastic from Bip and Go. Well worth having as saves a lot of faff and time at the tolls. They sent a tag which sticks to the windscreen and you can go through the auto gates instead of queueing, brilliant!

I had mine skimmed before I replaced and it's been going strong for 18months as guys said needs skimming or your just throwing money at it with same end result.

If the head hasn't been machined flat you'll be replacing that gasket forever more, also use the Temac MLS gasket, not some horrible BGA type composite turd.

G

Have you got any way of plugging it in? Engine Management light can be off and still have faults: There are cheap ways with a laptop, a USB KKL cable, and software. Garage last charged me £100 to read a fault code FFS... My guess is a glow plug issue, but I am pretty new to diesel repairs.

I have a 3 year extended warranty and adblue mileage is showing as 4500. The car will receive its first proper run in my ownership on Wednesday when I will be driving a 100 mile trip to Heathrow and returning with daughter plus copious amounts of luggage. On the shortest day of the year...in the dark...and during the rush hour on the M25. Happy days!

Thanks for everyone's quick response. The issue was broken wires between the drivers door and connectors on pillar. See photo for issue causing problem: Fixed by soldering and insulating wires.

They may not have a diesel particulate filter but new petrols do have a GPF gasoline particulate filter. mmmm genius idea… not! You drill a hole pre dpf to keep the pressure sensor from triggering. The gases will always take the path of least resistance which with a partially blocked dpf and a open hole, the gas is gonna pour out the hole, you’re gonna get soot everywhere, cancerous gases straight through your pollen filter into the cabin, possible chuffing sound. ask anyone that’s ever driven a diesel with a exhaust leak - if it’s bad enough you’ll have your eyes watering and coughing, and yet you want to do this on purpose???? Next you’ll be saying if you’ve got a seized brake caliper just crimp the hose off and remove the caliper completely…. just fix the issue properly!

Battery life can vary so much, depends on many factors. Some get 3-4 years, and other beyond this on exactly same battery. What's fitted right now, as we can point you at cheaper source no doubt. (Take a photo if possible) Have you got a basic voltage meter to check? You might have 096 sized AGM, dimensions available here... https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/e39/ 278mm length, Varta and Bosch are made in same factory, Varta being an OEM choice for VAG.

Okayy I jump started the car with another battery and the car started, so I think the problem was the battery. I bought a new battery now and changed it, the car works normally now. But I was not able to find the fuse plate connecting the alternator cable to the fusebox so the cable from the alternator is still bypassed and connected directly to the left most maxi. So do you guys think it will cause a problem or should I just leave the cable bypassed and connected as it is currently?

I had this issue a while back and the blue block on the head unit connection just needed reseated (above glovebox). It’s been fine for over a year now:

@promomast YET 1 Owned by @BossFox i think. I seem to remember an issue with a Dealerships Yeti sitting with a Show plate or out on the road with YETI.

Best to look at the map link in the first sentence, and when you find someone close, you will need to send a PM message (pick a few local user's if possible)

https://tiresize.com/comparison/ This site is perfect for comparing different tyre sizes.

Change your garage. As others, a petrol car cannot have a diesel filter in the exhaust.

Living in the mild, sunny and damp South West the temperature didn't even get as low as -10 last week more like -6. Diesel was bought a week before so should have been "winter" diesel.

Sorry mixers referred to tonic water, ginger ale or similar to mix with alcoholic drinks. My sense of humour

If your profile is correct, and this is a 1.6 Petrol Octavia, then it can't be a DPF issue. DPF is diesel particle filter, so you don't have one. Exhaust light could come on for a variety of faults, only way to know is to scan it and read the fault code. If you can't find a local member with VCDS, most independent garages should have the equipment to read fault codes, much much cheaper than main Skoda dealer prices.

Interestingly, I also have a Seat Leon (read Golf!), which is a great little car. My missus has a Land Rover Discovery, 66k miles, just broke it's crank. £10k repair. Common problem. Never, ever buy a Disco. See https://www.thepetitionsite.com/en-gb/535/903/886/land-rover-sdv6-amp-tdv6-crank-failure/

There are loads on eBay in various styles and price points. If you want genuine versions, I think the RHD choices are: - All-weather interior foot mats (4-piece set) (5E2 061 550) - Textile foot mats Standard (4-piece set) (5E2 061 404C) - Textile foot mats Prestige (4-piece set) (5E2 061 404B) I can't remember if there is a vRS specific version 😕

Check the earth connection to the inner wing, this is I believe the only way the circuit is completed to the car on the negative side. If you have jump leads connect one to the earth connection on the battery with the other end to the metal on the engine with the key still in the ignition in the position where you expect the dash to light up - this must be when in a nothing happening situation. This will test negative circuit. Strange that power available for remote door solenoids only, but, strange issue - maybe solenoid current draw pushes resistance over the edge.

noticeable improvement can be got just by replace soft OEM springs to harder Eibach Pro lowering or not lowering (my choice) is up to you -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/478335-does-the-sportline-have-stiffer-suspension/?do=findComment&comment=5703999 -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/485647-bilstein-b6-dcc-shock-absorbers-available-at-last/?do=findComment&comment=5620484

Oil was dropped and refilled with Nulon 5w30 + new filter ~5000km ago, was never a burner so should be good for another 5000km at least, based on prior experience. Was on a low lifter, not a rolling tow. Did the water pump/mag clutch ~40000km ago This is a video I took 20 mins ago that better demonstrates the noise, it’s a very different noise to what I experienced with the water pump/ mag clutch the first time around: https://youtube.com/shorts/ch5Jtegn4NY?feature=share

Will see how it goes Thanks for your process and advice

Yes. At last I have got the car back to a decent garage and they could not see anything wrong with the turbo. The noise is definitely not revs related. But its going to be a long process to identify what it is. It does seem like some weird airflow problem and not an issue with the turbo. Will report back if we find anything.

could I just leave my 18 inch rims and go for 245 / 60 instead of 245/45? Would this make the ride softer? I am less concerned about road noise as alread soundproofed the car. Does the width of the tyre affect the ride comfort if aspec is kept at 60 on, e.g. 225 vs 245 tyres?

There was a thread ages ago about boot liners for the Mk4. Might help…

Then why are you so against the heated windscreen when it will do the job quicker than heat from the engine?

I've tried several products over the years, but this one has been the best I've tried.

It did start straight away, which was a relief. Thank you. It's been with us such a long time now that it's part of the family. We've spent more on it than the original purchase price but it's worth every penny. I still have plans for maintenance & improvements but it was a great package straight out of the box. Until I drove one I didn't really get them. Afterwards, I was a convert and that's saying something as I'd just come from an S1 106 Rallye.

No not losing coolant (well not after the pump got replaced last month as that was leaking badly) Thought it could be a stuck thermostat. Yeah if I keep driving the issue does correct itself. Haven't actually managed to pull over when the issue is happening to check that top hose. However after correcting it can feel that hose being hot

Totally agree with above comments because it's happened to me on other VW cars. 99% certain it's a result of your windscreen fluid not being strong enough for the conditions.

I lifted mine with the Eibach springs (Tiguan). Excellent results with 30mm lift and improved handling on road and off-road. I’m going for another 30mm soon with the spacers/levelling kit.

I do love the colours of this time of year... and the car~

Winter mode 🤪 Washed, polished, waxed and winter wheels mounted.

As promised, here is a series of pics to illustrate the result of my 2-day detailing job these last days... After a quick clean to get rid of suicidal mosquitoes during a 800km drive... Overview of water-repellent effect of sealant Little mop yesterday This morning at work And the nicest (at least to me) this evening, on a sport shop car park Night pics are quite rare on this thread...

Update from my Haldex oil change today, all went well but I struggled with the following steps: a) The two Torx screws keeping the Haldex ECU in place, the bottom one is very close to the drive shaft flange and all my tool combinations were either too short or too wide to clear it, not any set will work there, you've been warned! I was saved by a really thin wrench I had in my tool case which i managed to squeeze between the screw head and the flange at an angle, get the hex bit in and clear a valuabe 1-2mm to operate it. However this proved to be a wasted effort as... b) The ECU plug connecting the Haldex ECU to the pump, yes those dreaded locking tab connectors VAG uses that if were designed with 40% less stiffness on the tab, they would be just as slip-safe but possible to remove from all those pesky, limited-access locations with just one hand instead of endless pulling, swearing and finger crushing in vain... I thought I had got the hang of them after so many JB4 installations and its infamous plug D but it just wasn't my day so, if you find yourself in the same position, you can proceed without disconnecting the pump from the ECU at all. Here's how this slightly alternative approach works: You still unscrew the ECU (remember it takes a special extension or very thin wrench to achieve that) to make more slack for the wiring. You unscrew the pump but obviously don't stretch it now as it's still connected to the ECU, instead you need to be keeping it up. In some videos they suggest leaving it to rest on the exhaust pipe next to it but I didn't want to take my chances and as I had a buddy with me (always a good idea for jobs you've not tackled before) he took over "support duties". You can then work as per the usual instructions while having the pump up. c) One last thing, the M10 filler screw... I have a few tool sets and combinations with which I've completed several jobs in the past, however all my HEX bit sets were stopping at 8, i had actually never needed a 10 HEX bit so far... Why on earth this is not a HEX head bolt but a socket head only VW knows. Of-fcourse I had a good old Allen key set that could do the trick as it included a size 10 key, but not possible to mount on a torque wrench to apply precisely the 38Nm specified upon re-assembly. So, I just relied on common sense to tighten the new bolt back with the Allen key, if you want to do it right make sure you have a 10mm bit before setting off. And now time for the star of the show... I had seen people cleaning their Haldex screens at 20-30K and they were looking only mildly dirty so i had some doubts how dirty mine would be / how necessary the whole operation after 2 years and 22.000 km. Yes I have done at least 20+ launches with the car, and it's tuned too but I was still shocked from this sight upon pump removal: The screen was in that sorry state at all sides, not just the one seen in the photos There had recently been the occasional trumping during launching, but only then, not in normal driving so I had suspected it could be slightly clogged, not that horribly though. After I saw this I can only say I'm glad I did it and it will be added in my list of yearly or 18months max maintenance, it's going to be much simpler and quicker next time I reckon. Again thanks to Bap for this guide that detailed the process and provided a great basis to work on