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UPDATE: Skoda dealership looked at the car today and diagnosed a faulty oil seal (not sure which but guessing probably crankshaft) which had allowed oil to leak on to clutch plate so now getting the whole thing repaired under warranty after all. {sigh of relief}

Fixed: boost pipe had come off they put that on and had to reset the management light which came on this morning and it's now driving like a good un. Thanks for chiming in guys.

A few from the Christmas light show at Belton House (Grantham) Mars and Jupiter very prominent .........

Just before dawn this morning

....also our local garage that replaced the thermostat did query the cam belt & pump but as the service history recorded replacement at 64k they were certain it was the thermostat. In hindsight I should have gone back to the dealer in the first place I suppose. Anyway hopefully it'll get sorted next week. I'll update you then.n

Not much for me to do this time of year. So, for no reason at all. I got in my car this morning and drove to Dunmore head, the westernmost point of Ireland and back, in one day. I say nonstop, but once I got close I kept hopping out to see the sights. Intended on going down to Kerry for the weekend this summer. Obviously that did not happen. Really wanted to do the ring of kerry too, that didn't happen either but I came across something just as memorable. Thank you Waze. Conor Pass: This Pass goes right up and over the hills from Tralee to Dingle. Absolutely amazing road and I could not have picked a better time to go up it. Hard to show just how high this road goes. At the peak. Further on, Dunmore head. The westernmost point of Ireland. Picked a good time of year to do this trip. These roads must become hectic during summer. Did have to cross a very small, very bumpy ford. Really like the Spyders, more than the standard wheels if I'm honest. The tyres are as crap as ever but, they did really well navigating a lot of standing water on a certain stretch of motorway.

You might have a boost leak, black smoke is a sign of a fuel rich mixture, its worth having a really good visual of all the hoses and pipes. You could try and unplug the MAF and see if that helps the fuel economy figures over a tank of fuel, if it doesn't improve things then there is probably not much wrong with the one you have. Also, what sort of lengths of journeys are you doing, 32 MPG is low but if you are only doing short journeys it could be normal.

First check all four tyres are the same size, simple and easy to do.

In other words, doesn't have a clue and can't confirm... +1 👍 - perhaps a large one Gaz

They are putting on the warranty. No point them pretending they do not know what the manufacturer's guidelines, recommendations, schedule or spec is on cars to the miles or age. If no record of being done then they need to do it. ??? Is a sales person likely to say. ' we do the least we can get away with, and no point taking my name as I might not be here next week. Pinch of salt and get it in writing what has been done and the answers to anything you ask the managers not just sales staff.

Good luck on your investigations. I'll be "mostly eating blancmange"

The arteon is a great looking car. When I ordered the superb I looked at those too. The only issue is they are quite low spec in the standard trims. Multiple items were optional that came standard on similar Passat and Superb models. When you built one like for like it was significantly more expensive. So they might not do well in the spec / price comparison

Hi @gho, I'm just south of Oxford and would be happy to have a go at sorting this for you. I will send you a private message with a contact number and a few questions about the car. 🙂

Well my other vehicle is a 20 year old landrover defender! Which I can remedy & work on a lot easier than these new fangled engines! So I'm used to landrover forums & being thoughtful before posting!..... The first issue was total loss of coolant. Area beneath rads wet. Since new rads (7 weeks ago) coolant hasn't dropped. Just the temp gauge of terror issues. So I'm my feeble reckoning the rads were needed?

^^^ What varooom said, plus you may not need a new battery either.

I also just wanted to add how I like the feel of this thread. Friendly, to the point (without leaving info out) and no "got this error and can't be bothered to search for myself" demands. Thumbs up to @tev66

Garage has f***ed up the cam timing and/or not refitted the boost pipes properly.

If you want to increase the bulb lifetime, use something like osram ultra life. The actual lumen output will be pretty much identical to the performance halogen. The plus X percentage brighter/range claims are pretty bogus. It's measuring a single part of the headlight beam in a headlight from a one car model which yielded the best result. Although some EU countries are starting to accept retrofit led kits, from what I've seen it needs to be certified for each individual lamp type so it's far from universal. When I last checked, some VW models were listed but no Skoda's. I doubt the retrofit LEDs will be any brighter than a halogen. Anything above 2000lm will need headlight washers and leveling systems so it'll just be a whiter, longer lasting lamp rather than a true performance upgrade.

Thank you to all that have passed on their wisdom. This Forum is truly a wonderful site. The problem has gone away (for now at least!). I am inclined to think it was regen related inasmuch despite doing a few 100 mile journeys the car was trying to regen on smaller trips. Anyway, I ignored the problem and discovered that although it dropped into 5th unexpectedly, I found that if I let it stay there for a while it would drop into 6th eventually. It now behaves as it should, running up all the gears and settling into 6th. Here's hoping that the GB continues it's good behaviour.

Extremely easy to do and like all analogue sensors the the output gradually becomes less accurate over time until you notice how bad the fuel economy has become.

Thank you for the links @nta16, I will have a look and see if I can turn anything up

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Small point but presently the positive battery post clamp has been overtightened and squashed and sits high on the battery post, easily sorted next time it's disconnected and reconnected. And perhaps the battery cover is upside down(?).

It seems the earlier yetis had rear drains at the tailgate, and on later models the drains were moved to the wheel arch area. See: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/yeti/yet/2012-666/8/877-877020/ (and from the darkside!) https://www.yetiownersclub.co.uk/threads/leaking-sunroof.2601/post-28834

? Who is Main Skoda? Is that a particular person, if so do not be surprised at people at Skoda UK or Dealerships not knowing stuff. There were and maybe still are Skoda / VW Group main dealers that suggested and quoted for an 'Inspection Service' which was for the Body Condition Warranty'. Silly money as a Interim/ Minor Service or a Major Service includes a body inspection, but some never got main dealer services but would have an Inspection Service because they were advised to for the Warranty. So there is Oil & Inspection Services, and anyone could have an Inspection Service without having the Oil & Filter changed. Or there are Pre Sales Inspections. *** A member posted this in another thread. 'Inspection Service' is most likely an 'Oil & Inspection Service'. But one should never assume. An Oil Change Service @ £99 was being offered by some, as a Oil change between Major / Variable Services. Bottom in Green how it was up to Skoda UK changing to Oil & Inspection and Extended Scope and pricing for plugs, pollen filter etc. Before that a fixed Service price never guaranteed the stuff getting replaced but you still paid for it even if not supplied and fitted.

No way would that tatty thing ever find its way under the bonnet again, even when my battery dies from overheating I will still be able to stare lovingly at the plastic box and cover 😆 Thanks for the part number, I will consider it if the battery fails prematurely, it has already survived some 44°c days this summer. Nothing (almost) can any longer be found on the many auction sites now that I am permanently in France I'm afraid, it's back to begging at main dealers that don't even have parts people any more, oh for a TPS! but only in my dreams

The timing chain had stretched and jumped and damaged the cam (worsening rattle). I have the damaged cam too. One thing they said was that they tried three different cams which seemed odd... I'm not technical at all FYI

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry I don't know it's location but it might vary depending on which engine (code) you have. You could look on a parts diagram, example on 2015 engines. - https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2015-797/1/ If it's a known fault you'd hope there might be info on this to garage services on the information systems they subscribe to and Dealership technical bulletins, perhaps even recalls (but I doubt it we are talking about vehicle manufacturer) you could perhaps check on the following links for updates (perhaps on other stuff too/instead of). RECALL ACTIONS - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions Update portal - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/

On my Yeti an 096 battery fitted but the felt shroud would not fit back around, the best compromise looked like Alexis Sales jacket 🤣 I fitted a plastic battery cover and lid from an Octavia 2 which is a snug fit around an 096 battery and makes the engine bay look far more "finished" its an interchangeable fit on any PQ35 platform vehicle battery tray.

That one looks different to my one on the Octavia. The superb has a cloth jacket as opposed to plastic. The Octavia one separates mid way half way down the battery on both sides. The 096/100 are quite large batteries and they fit nice and snug with the casing/covering. 278x175mm approx I think will fit here but I am pre-fl octy. There are plenty of posts on this here I’m sure.

Sounds like a good starting point there according to this site https://knigaproavto.ru/shemy/en/skoda/roomster/109-skoda-roomster-fuse-box-diagram.html Beware the fuse box is actually rotated 180 degrees though rather than just mirrored.

So good news for you, at least in a way

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09MVSWYB8?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Finally got round to fitting an auto start / stop invert cable, so easy to fit and works a treat! The ability to turn it back on is quality! Cheaper on fleabay but thought would get better support thru' Amazon! Lets hope it lasts!

Yes I can do that, £280.

Fitting is simple. You need a 8 or 10 mm spanner for the nuts on the battery posts. And I think a 13mm long reach socket for the battery securing bolt and plate. About halfway across the width of the battery down the gap to the left of the battery in your picture. When removing the battery the plastic casing can be unclipped as it’s in 2 parts. I have not had to do that myself as i did a swap on my Octavia 2 yesterday for a used battery to tide me over. Sometimes when lifting the old battery out, it catches in the wing end so you need to angle it a little or slide it left towards the engine just to get it to clear the retainer in the battery tray(best explanation I could think of ) The warning lights will all extinguish except the steering light until you actually drive to extinguish that one. You will lose the miles since last fill on the dash. Radios not usually an issue as coded to the car. This is all from my experience on Octy 2005 and Superb 2011.

The biggest one to fit in an Octavia 2 is type 096 or type 100. Diesel especially get the largest capacity AH and CCA, you can such as below. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171524178659?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=skXrc9TbReq&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=45o-tdWCRea&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I have purchased one recently from them for my S2 and used ABS batteries before. I also got a discount against the auction of about £6 bringing cost down to about £75 delivered. At the moment next day delivery would be Tuesday/Wednesday. Tanya batteries is also a forum favourite they have a dedicated website plus eBay listings for things like a Varta E44 if you want a branded product. Think they deliver even on Saturdays. Please double check.

Hi Tom,I just replaced mine with one that had more amps than the standard one,,Halfords..no doupt someone will tell you all the tech stuff from this site...

Wow, that is interesting, never realised there could be such a difference just down to different manufacturers! You could understand maybe a few MB, but 400MB is insane, and that would certainly explain it. Thank you for putting an old man out of his misery 👍🙂 (although now, of course, I’m going to have to fire up the old laptop when I get a sec, reformat the cards and check out exactly what free space I’m showing 🙄 rabbit hole here I come)

Take a picture of what's fitted.

I'm so glad you had a very clean car to post, a bit like having clean underpants incase you get hit by a bus. Also a reminder to wash mine after our snow and ice (and salt and grit) (also a Petrol blue estate) This thread should be tagged 'suspense'. Hope it's not damaged.

Not that dirty for a first cleaning of the pump strainer after 70000km. Good news.👍 Regarding the oil quantity in the diff, take a look on cardiagn.com. You´ll be able to download all workshop manuals. Chapter « Propshaft and rear final drive » should contain the required oil quantity

If it does not feel as before then it sounds like the timing is out. I remember doing my old 1.9 pd roomster and you have to do a 2 crankshaft rotation check and confirm the locking tools fit again. I wrote how to do it as a sort of guide. I attach a link here. You will read about that 2 rotation test towards the end. Roomster 1.9pd Cambelt

Yup, I notice that too. Tis cool to see it in action.

When you stop (at a trafic light for instance), you can even notice the beam getting narrower on the rear bumper of the car just ahead. Quite funny…

Listen, DO NOT DRIVE IT. you have messed up somewhere, drained the diff and either filed that with haldex oil or you’ve drained the haldex via the pump as well. In which case you’ve done something big time wrong. if you drive it you risk £1000s in damages with a destroyed haldex pump, clutch and rear diff….

But it IS normal, opinions are irrelevant 😂😂

A few from Attenborough nature reserve (yesterday). Was intrigued by the variation in sizes of the Robins - old/young, male/female, fat/thin?

The UK Manufacturers Warranty T&C's. SKODA_Warranty_Terms_November_2021.pdf

If the car has had Official Dealership servicing they can call that up, even though they are not VAG dealers. As to the Service History the car does have, they know what they know as they bought the car. Ask all the questions. Get them to print out what they have and what they have done pre sales, & are there 2 or 3 keys with the car. VAQ due 3 years / 30,000 miles. Overdue if not done.

I've tried to test this "normal" and "sport" options. My thoughts are that Sport makes the lights react quicker when going ON, and with Normal they are more softer. So for example when a car is passing by, in Sport the lights go on much quicker, perhaps even in an annoying way. They might even look like flickering when they are going on/off quickly when a car is perhaps behind a tree or something. With Normal, the lights are more unnoticeable, since they light up more softly.