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Hi, all Here’s the finished result! The MIB 2.5 fully fitted no sound issues with basic speakers, I taken it to someone who knows much more than me to do the adaptions, coding and dataset swaps. As I suspected, the unit being configured for Canton was no issue as the configuration is done in software and can be changed via adaptations, you can even enable Skoda surround and virtual subwoofer if you wish via OBD Eleven. No issues so far. Such a massive look and sound quality boost from the basic MIB 1 Adding onto this; I managed to source a VC on AliExpress. after waiting and receiving, the quality of the plastic surround could be better and the part is actually for a superb but works just fine in the Octavia. (albeit the wrong car is displayed, not fussed) I hired Derby Diagnostic Services do this but due to the part number being wrong, automatic adaption doesn’t work and will need to be manually coded/adapted to the car. With the genuineness of the unit being questionable, the unit works fine. No lag or delays. Even sending 3D maps works Oddly enough, I had bought the steering wheel buttons including the ‘view’ button however upon installation of the VC. My standard buttons work fine and can change the view. Unsure if this is due to it being a later 2015 model or due the car being a higher spec with the ‘High’ BCM but I’ll be seeking to the buttons later, it’s just no longer a priority. These are my findings and thoughts. Lastly, I’ll include some photos of the finished result!

I think with a 1.8 and a sunroof you will have picked the two biggest bad points of owning a Yeti.🤭 Good Luck😎

Thank you 3T51704X4. Strange coincidences the way things work out. Although I had practically answered my own questions about my fuel sender problem following a drain down and refill after misfuelling. Also shows how those who think they are quite knowledgeable can fall foul of their own confidence. After refilling with the correct fuel (diesel) and replacing the fuel pump/ sensor can this last week I have had fault code B103E12 intermittent and finding that switching off the ignition and then restarting the fault would clear. I was convinced that I had somehow disturbed the connections on the fuel sensor resistance track by leaving the tank with petrol in it overnight before draining it and have ordered a new pump/ sensor unit. Tonight I was musing through ebay and noticed the the used pump sender units that had just had the fuel lines cut through instead of disconnected when I realised I have put my fuel lines back on the wrong spigots. Sure the car ran fine until doing a hard right turn up a local hill ! I have rushed out to the car and repositioned the fuel lines. Have driven 25 miles without issue. The car even drives and feels far smoother. There are no stored fault codes. It would appear that mis placing the fuel lines on the pump unit allows the container the sensor sits in to get pumped dry or so low that the sensor track does not sit immersed in fuel which must affect the electrical resistance of the track hence B103E12 'Fuel sensor resistance too high' Someone may correct me if I'm wrong on that one but I don't mind being subject to howls of laughter even if I do have a B/TEC 1st in Motor Vehicle Engineering !.

'EV,s make up to 80% of new car sales in Norway'. It is being reported. https://www.zawya.com/en/wealth/sustainability/evs-make-up-80-of-new-car-sales-in-norway-a2i7l772 It makes sense to encourage the Car manufacturers to stop producing heavier and heavier and bigger EV,s that many need to just get about in comfortably. It makes sense to do that by not throwing money towards those paying for prestige vehicles when it is more efficient vehicles using less materials & resources that are needed. It does not work when those that can afford what ever they want just buy whatever and taxing them or not assisting with grants makes no difference.

The device is definitely worth it but it's recommended to avoid the inbuilt apps. There is no ability to track the changes made and reversing the change is never guaranteed to actually reverse what was changed initially. Just get the pro version and do your own coding. Is surprisingly straight forward.

Inner wishbone bush movement or possibly a loose pivot bolt if you have recently worked on the vehicle. I was disturbed by a phone call when I was tightening the suspension bolts after putting the vehicle weight back on the suspension and did not nip up one of the bolts, I suffered the same torque steer as you did under heavy acceleration or braking, i pulled out to overtake a car put my foot down and veered towards the RH ditch, I quickly aborted and returned home for a change of underpants. It wont be a power steering problem. You may be able to see any excess movement by trying to roll each front wheel to and forth with the handbrake applied.

Had bright yellow car year's ago and guess what some idiot didn't see and actually said in there defence they didn't see me I sent there insurance a pic of car claim paid in full

It's supposed to be a pressurised system, and you're running it unpressurised. That reduces the apparent boiling point to about 100C, rather than the 115C you'd get with the pressure cap closed.

The year in the VIN is the Model Year (MY) which isn't the same as calendar year, in a similar way to how magazines always seem to be a month ahead of reality. Model year - Wikipedia

Classic models came with the factory option of the "Plus Pack" which was remote locking and (i believe) electric front windows. Comforts and above all came with remote locking as standard.

@Andy Cope You will stuggle to find a more knowledgeable owner or a better maintained twincharger. http://www.fabiavrs.com Better you look for an enthusiast maintained car and do not go with Full Main Dealer servicing history, or a history of being at main dealers and maybe not much done.

Watch this

I have a 2022 (2023MY) Superb DSG. Mine goes in to 'coasting' mode quite often in 'E' mode, and sometimes but rarely in 'D' mode, never use 'S' but probably not. During coasting mode a symbol appears on the dash and the rev counter drops to normal tick over rpm regardless of vehicle speed. A quick dab on either the brakes or accelerator and it drops out of coasting mode, the rpm goes back to the relevant engine speed. I think this is the coasting mode the OP refers to which is not like previous posts think of as coasting when the engine is in override, it does seem to totally disengage the gearbox from the engine except you don't move the gear lever as it does it automatically.

There's a communication wire that goes (only) from front right to rear right door modules, which I think may be broken. It connects pin 10 of the 20-way connector at each module, via pin 19 of each 28-way door disconnect. Ideally you'd disconnect that 20-way at each of the right side door modules, and check continuity from pin 10 of one to pin 10 of the other.

VCDS/ODIS Service How to adapt a new battery A little guide I made to help you adapt a new battery to your vehicle VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf ODIS Service How to adapt a new battery.pdf

Yeah it's engine ECU and gearbox control unit as seen. (Unless 1.6l) Edit, forgot to say, you might not get a sticker in the boot, where the wheel normally lives, but should be entered on the digital service record.

Did you gain a sticker in the boot, with one of the 4 digit campaign stickers? Like the other thread you/me just posted in?

SSP504 shows as 0% But as you say, too long spent at low Voltage is not good for any battery. I am sure there are other charts, as said 11.6V or 11.7V is too damn low.

Closer to 10%, but nowhere like enough to prevent drastic reduction of life. Persistent undercharging, even at around 60%, (approx. 12.3 V) is not great for any lead-acid battery.

If the "starter" battery, or whatever they like to call it is EFB or AGM then 11.7V is 0% state of charge. Usually they last for years, but they clearly don't like working in these models.

Always best to grab an image of cam versus crank before a belt change. Doesnt take long and confirms exact synch after work is done. How do you know that the apprentice didnt get the job on your car? I am getting the belt change at the local dealer and I dont trust them. The only way to catch dealers out is have proof otherwise they just deny deny and deny. Secondly, a factory waveform as such can be uploaded to public sites to help others with diagnosing engine issues at a later date - known good crank/cam synch waveforms are very important as the car ages.

Generally main beam is 60W so the increase to 100W is not such a big deal, however the additional heat buildup may be an issue in such flimsy plastic headlight shells, maybe an upgrade to 75W will be sufficient given that the OP lives in Brum and drives a glacially slow 1.2 Putt-Putt.

Ooo ta very much!

The wiring loom has been overexposed to value engineering, just repair it.

It controls the temperature and humidity. Also decides on the best place on the air unless you manually press the air buttons. It is not a bang-bang system as you suggest but a constantly variable system. The air conditioning compressor is not an on or off unit and in fact is driven continuously with the displacement being varied by a swash plate. It is a very efficient system and I cannot see any difference in mpg between and auto and off except in exceptionally hot weather. I can't prove it but it appears to put the air into recirculation mode if you are following a car with a dirty exhaust.

It looks like I need to use something like MP3tag to get this done, so I'm about to give that a try. Thanks for your help - much appreciated.

As is the 1.2 - 105bhp or 110bhp depending on engine. I've never found mine wanting.

Start by getting the battery checked properly. Other people will say otherwise, but I know other people who have needed new batteries on Superbs at 3 to 4 years old.

It's the best video around but it also poor in that he inititially says to "push the connector plug then push the lever in" which is incorrect, when he releases it his finger is covering the detent lever and you can't realy see what he is doing, it's a bit clearer the 2nd time round where he correctly says "push the connector in and then pull back on the tab". The mantra to remember is push then pull.

I received my VIN almost 3 months ago and car is still not completed so app wont recognize it. Today I called my delaer and they said it should be here this month. If that is true I waited 15 months.

I will come back soon to assist you, Current update is 0369, so ignore that value, it shows the updates that have been applied (seems like someone applied 0359 twice) There is a hacking tool for this, but best send a picture of your whole screen with buttons (and you need to be prepared to hack) To hack you MUST be able to put the infotainment system into Developer mode, you need a tool like VCDS or similar.

Thank you for your prompt anwser. I am slowly diving into a few forum threads to get a better understanding of Swap codes. I'll update here if I succeed !

Welcome, 0156 is the latest version for any 01xx version firmware, so no update As to patching the SWaP codes, I don't know if possible?

Yep, on mobile, damn technology 🙂 Didn't even know they did a manual 4x4 170, when I got my facelift car only option for the 170 4x4's was DSG. Must be a pre-FL car? @Junips99 - Symptoms do sound very much like main thermostat stuck open giving uncontrolled flow of coolant through rad' which gets cooled more by airflow at high speed, hence faster = colder. Can't unfortunately help with any advice re practicalities or cost of thermostat swap. Maybe invest a few quid to access ERWIN system for an hour and download all the workshop manuals etc for your car which should hopefully provide step by step instructions.

To Be honest with 1 electrical connector refusing to budge and it getting very dark I Put it all back together and will have another go on the next dry day when Ive got a spare hour or so. It should be quicker next time now I know where all the Tork Screws/ Clips are to remove the airbox ducting etc. Once done I'll report back

Welcome. Looking through the Yeti section is a good start, and look a bit closer at 1.8 TSI,s and possible issues. There are bound to be good ones, but are those that have them selling those. eg Some negative stuff on 1.8TSI's. Not overblown on the internet / forums though. You need to do research. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/509351-should-i-buy-a-yeti-with-issues

As above, you can have 0480 in a few minutes.

I have been considering selling mine as it sits in the garage most of the time. Whats your budget ?

DPF Checking (VCDS or similar tool to interrogate) Don't quote me on all of this, but fuel pressure low on the rail usually means the sensor is reading a low pressure (I mean it's quite literal) so could be sensor is going wrong, but could be the pump in the tank is not pushing the fuel to the rail (could be a little blip to drop the pressure in rail) The lambda sensor is suggesting a wiring fault/short to earth or such (maybe inspectiong will show a wire completely bare or broken) It might pay you to locate someone with VCDS if you don't have one, or purchase one so you can do some live readings of MVB (Measured Value Blocks) on test drives. I always think the tool pays for itself in spades myself, a few trips to the garage = same.

The UK Government did not have legislation in place for EV chargers and the properties already built by June and occupied now in England from a bright idea from before the Tories went into meltdown.

I think you'll find the 12V feed is the same volour on all four, and comes from a fuse rather than the ECU. The wire colour of the switched return from each injector will be the same at injector connector and engine ECU as it's a direct run. Will confirm in a few minutes, with ECU pin number.

The 12v accessory sockets in the Octavia are permanently live and directly connected to the battery via appropriate fuses. There are no relays or other switching electronics upstream so 'the canbus' cannot disable them. The only limit to charging would be the fuse, on the wiring diagram I have the lowest is rated at 20a which is unlikely to cause issues for most chargers.

Welcome to the dark side! so where to start, difference in the 272 and 280 is the 272 has a 7spd I believe, 280 had the 6spd. there are some slight engine differences 2 such as 1 has 4 injectors, the other 8. (I may be wrong on the differences between the 2 engines) regarding tail pipes, the sportline doesn’t decide the chrome real tail pipes, the 272/280 is the only one with real tail pipes. The sportline and L&K non 272/280 get just chrome plastic surrounds. sportline in my opinion looks a lot better with the interior and black trim. A lot of the extras on an L&K are hard to find on a sportline when not specced new so a high spec model is hard to find! A lot of it can be retrofitted though. canton is a definite heated windscreen is also - this also means heated seats which is lovely dcc isn’t exactly much to go wrong - but shocks like to leak on them and they’re not cheap at almost £500 a corner! If possible and you’ve got the budget, set it about 24k and look for a 280 sportline (estate is my preference) and wait for a full spec with sunroof, electric tailgate and all the other good stuff to come up, it’s worth the investment.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Have a look at your Owner's Manual for advice on charging the battery and use an appropriate battery charger (+ maintainer). Car batteries are probably the most oversold car part, RAC will sell you one if you've got a flat tyre! - BUT - many driver's now so use, abuse and neglect the car's battery and it is so important to modern cars that often the best remedy is just to replace even if it's premature for the battery. I've revived a few "dead" car batteries but in the same way people tell you "the battery is good" when it isn't also a "dead" battery may be only dying and might be saverable. Main problem is that it usually involves two things many people don't have one or both of - time and patience. I put a charger maintainer on to the 18-month old AGM of my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 in December as a preventative measure, no signs (or warnings) what so ever that the battery was at all low from the car, it took 17 hours to fully recharge it (on the car, outside, at -3.5c at one point, 12v winter setting* - *usually used at ambient +5c and below, but check specs). I used the Ring RSC804 4 amp (that's all you need, up to 90Ah) Battery Charger & Maintainer, £23.49 - other chargers at other prices available.

I don't think this issue is connected to the car. Would say it's more of a phone/gmaps and connectivity to the car. Since it started on my car without any recent car updates. Phone is iPhone 11 pro. Now I'm waiting for a new phone to see if the issue will be solved or not.

There seems to be no rhyme or reason to when it decides to do a regen, mine regularly would start doing one just as I came to the end of long journey 😡, very annoying indeed...

Update for anyone watching this. Full diagnostics today. Not too many faults except the one which indicated that the power to the steering was intermittant. Upon investigation, the cause seems to be the earth strap from the gearbox to the chassis. Rust and corrosion. It has been cleaned and as an extra measure, a new and separate earth strap fom the gearbox to the chassis has been added. So now I have it on trial as there may be other issues but that is a voyage of discovery. Not paid for any work yet, and NOT a new meggabuck alternator! Will update when a decent test over the weekend has been done.

Well I went for all 4. Fitted them yesterday along with a new engine mount on the gearbox side. Took the car for a short run. Runs smoother and handles better. The bounciness on the front is gone. Early days but worth it so far. For info: I ended up buying them from Auto-Doc. €494 (£421) delivered to Ireland. Other prices I could find were €636 (Winparts), €505 (Amazon.de), €535 (Amazon.fr) But not in stock with Amazon), €700 ( (from UK) + import tax (thanks Brexit) Front: 8745-1388 Rear: 8245-1387 So, like most things these days, shop around for prices before ordering.