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First post here. After 15 months of waiting, it has finally arrived, VRS IV mamba green.

According to Skoda Germany its a lifetime belt and does not need replacing

This was pretty much half of the way We had to use the ramps for that kind of terrain (worse than the picture above) about 14 or 15 times. in that picture, it was 7600ft MSL and 12:30am, i was really needing a turbo, but i dont think that i could have do it with hotter temps, like 1 or 2pm, there just would not be enough oxigen for the necesary power

Clumber Park earlier ...........

Hi All We at work recently got a Prusa 3D printer with a 200x200 bed. We were all told to learn how to operate said machine and it would be bad manners not to make up a homer or 2 just for the practice you all understand !! So we made a part for our coffee machine to keep the splashes down - phone holders - microscope lens holders and a cup holder for an Audi TT We made these foglight covers up just for the craic - They serve no real purpose as Fabia foglights are really strong any way and you could probably use them on a track day or if you had to block them for whatever reason The foglight glass is domed so doing it again we would probably dome the covers to match so for the minute they have a flat outside face ! We will have to try and get our heads round that one - We wont go commercial yet and I cant see us being on Dragons Den 🤣 What do yous think ?

Yes, I fully understand that, but the advice being offered was for a Fabia MK3 which did not have an engine size/output stated - so that was why I made that comment.

The naive way of doing it is to assume that because an earlier version of Fabia suited you, must continue with new generation Fabia. This ignores world has moved on and there are some good alternatives out there. The better way to do it is to go on the configurator, add the specs you want, then print out the configuration at the end. Then take 3 coloured highlighters (or pen but not as clear) and go through each line splitting them into essential must haves, would be nice but wouldn't really miss them, and no way want to pay extra for that. Once you have decided what you really want, check some alternative brands. As an example few years ago I had a late mk2 Fabia, now I have a Seat Arona. I managed to secure brand new top spec with 1.0tsi DSG for about £20k (4 years ago), to get everything that I have on latest Fabia would be nearer £28k. But in reality many parts are virtually same so doesn't feel lot different. But if you are set on a Fabia, get some online quotes, (brokers or carwow etc) then when your local dealer offers you a price, ask him to match them. The cars all come from same supplier, so not like one dealer is buying them at hugely higher price.

A small point, not important, but for future reference the OP has a CTHE engine not a CAVE. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/279292-cthecave-enginewhats-the-difference

Thanks very much everybody, you have put my mind at rest.

Since i cleaned the battery terminals (the seemed a little oxidized with some off-white deposits present) the problem hasn't recurred. So thanks for the advice. If it does happen again, I will remove the earth connection at the wing and clean that up too. But so far, so good!

Weirdly after going through the same process in January and having been assured that ny 12 volt battery was fine, I got a low battery warning this morning. Now I have to try and get Skoda to replace the battery, as I think it must have a shortened life from the previous lack of charging and constant discharging

But then again ........... As world's atmosphere has more CO2 ICE cars will produce less power but as it warms up Lithium batteries perform better and better. UK now averages over 10C...... --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- It is now possible to confirm that 2022 was the UK’s hottest year on record, with an average temperature of over 10°C recorded for the first time. 2022 was also the warmest year on record in the 364-year Central England Temperature (CET) series from 1659, the world’s longest instrumental record of temperature. https://www.metoffice.gov.uk/research/climate/seasonal-to-decadal/long-range/forecasts/co2-forecast https://www.metoffice.gov.uk/about-us/press-office/news/weather-and-climate/2023/climate-change-drives-uks-first-year-over-10c#:~:text=Study shows human induced climate,recorded for the first time.

I'll never complain about potholes on our roads again

I got some off eBay. Cost about a tenner for all 4, came direct from China even though they had ‘Made in Germany’ moulded into the back of them 😂. Still look fine with no whiteworm 2 years later. Couldn’t be bothered taking the wheels off to remove the old ones so I just drove a wood screw through them with a drill & pulled on the screw with pliers.

It may be down to how he drove it. Pottering along and shifting into S won't necessarily cause a downshift. It will however cause it to more readily downshift. They need to understand the kit they are servicing. I am particularly impressed that they are still pushing the funny driving style. Shifting back and forth between modes was standard pretty much every time I got in the car.

It's best to find out the OEM part numbers of your current front and rear shock absorbers. I say front as well, so you can find a matching front and rear pair, so that if you need new front ones in the future you will have found that a matching pair are available. Of course, if you are happy to fit non-matching front and rear shock absorbers then this point would be irrelevant. There's not much point someone recommending Biltein B4 shock absorbers if Bilstein don't make any that can correctly replace the OEM part numbers that were fitted to your car when it left the factory. In general, Bilstein don't appear to cover many of the OEM part numbers for shock absorbers on the Superb MK3. Many people make the mistake of using online websites that sell shock absorbers to find out which aftermarket shock absorbers will fit their car, only to find that the website has simply thrown up a load of shock absorbers that might fit a particular model of that car but not necessarily your car. In general, such websites are pretty clueless even if you enter your registration number and/or vin number and/or model. For this reason, it's very important to search on the basis of OEM part numbers. I was recently looking at one website and they listed a particular model of Bilstein shock absorber for a particular model of Superb MK3...only to find out (by checking out some of the OEM part numbers that this particular Bilstein shock absorber was being sold to replace) that this Bilstein was only suitable for an increased ride height car and/or a car fitted with heavy duty off-road suspension. Most potential purchasers would have been incorrectly under the impression that this particular model of Bilstein shock absorber was suitable for their car. If your Superb MK3 has standard ride height, you might find that the rear shock absorbers have one of the following OEM part numbers, but you would have to check. Bilstein don't list any rear shock absorbers that can be used to replace these OEM part numbers. Some standard ride height rear shock absorbers for the Superb MK3 3Q0513049FN 3Q0513049FP 3Q0513049FQ 3Q0513049FR However, Sachs are listing two rear shock absorbers that can both be used to replace all of these OEM part numbers. Here's all the OEM part numbers that Sachs 318 202 can replace. Notice that it's a long list. SACHS 318 202 Shock Absorber OE reference number(s) comparable with the original spare part number OE 5Q0 513 029 DQ — VW / SEAT OE 5Q0 513 029 DP — VW / SEAT OE 5Q0 513 029 GL — VW / SEAT OE 5Q0 513 029 EQ — VW / SEAT OE 5Q0 513 029 EN — VW / SEAT OE 5Q0 513 029 EM — VW / SEAT OE 5Q0 513 029 EP — VW / SEAT OE 5Q0 513 029 FG — VW / SEAT OE 5Q0 513 029 FE — VW / SEAT OE 3Q0 513 049 GF — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 GE — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 GG — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 EH — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 FA — VW OE 3Q0 512 011 JF — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 LL — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 EG — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 ER — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 LM — VW OE 3Q0 512 011 HD — VW OE 5QA 513 029 AH — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 GL — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 FM — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 FT — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 DB — VW OE 3Q0 512 011 JE — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 JK — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 EQ — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 DA — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 HC — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 LK — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 HB — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 FS — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 JR — VW OE 3Q0 512 011 JA — VW OE 3Q0 512 011 JL — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 FB — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 GR — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 GE — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 FG — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 AR — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 JJ — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 FC — VW OE 3Q0 512 011 JB — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 GK — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 AP — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 HA — VW OE 5QF 513 049 AP — VW OE 5QF 513 049 T — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 HB — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 GD — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 JH — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 GQ — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 GK — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 HJ — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 ES — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 HE — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 JL — VW OE 5QA 513 029 AG — VW OE 3Q0 512 011 HS — VW OE 3Q0 512 011 JG — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 GJ — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 HP — VW OE 5QF 513 049 AL — VW OE 3Q0 512 011 HE — VW OE 3Q0 512 011 HF — VW OE 3Q0 512 011 HG — VW OE 3Q0 512 011 HT — VW OE 3Q0 512 011 JC — VW OE 3Q0 512 011 JD — VW OE 3Q0 512 011 JH — VW OE 3Q0 512 011 JJ — VW OE 3Q0 512 011 JK — VW OE 3Q0 512 011 JQ — VW OE 3Q0 512 011 JR — VW OE 3Q0 512 011 KD — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 EC — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 ED — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 EE — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 EF — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 EG — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 EH — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 EJ — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 EK — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 ET — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 FD — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 FE — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 FF — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 FH — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 FJ — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 FK — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 FL — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 FM — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 GH — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 GJ — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 GS — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 GT — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 HA — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 HC — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 HD — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 HM — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 HN — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 HP — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 HQ — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 HR — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 JC — VW OE 3Q0 513 049 JK — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 FA — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 GM — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 GN — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 GP — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 GQ — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 GR — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 GS — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 GT — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 HA — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 HG — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 HH — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 HJ — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 HM — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 JQ — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 JR — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 JS — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 JT — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 KD — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 KG — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 KH — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 KJ — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 KK — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 KP — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 LA — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 LB — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 LC — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 LD — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 LH — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 LJ — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 LN — VW OE 5Q0 512 011 LP — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 DG — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 DH — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 DR — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 DS — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 GA — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 GB — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 GG — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 GH — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 HD — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 HK — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 HM — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 HN — VW OE 5QA 513 029 AJ — VW OE 5QA 513 029 AK — VW OE 5QA 513 029 AL — VW OE 5QF 513 049 AA — VW OE 5QF 513 049 AB — VW OE 5QF 513 049 AK — VW OE 5QF 513 049 AM — VW OE 5QF 513 049 AN — VW OE 5QF 513 049 AQ — VW OE 5QF 513 049 Q — VW OE 5QF 513 049 R — VW OE 5QF 513 049 S — VW OE 5Q0 513 029 EC — AUDI OE 5Q0 513 029 EB — AUDI OE 5Q0 513 029 GM — AUDI OE 5Q0 513 029 AS — AUDI OE 5Q0 513 029 EL — AUDI OE 8S0 513 029 — AUDI OE 5Q0 513 029 BK — AUDI OE 5Q0 513 029 EK — AUDI OE 8V0 513 029 AC — AUDI OE 5Q0 513 029 JE — AUDI OE 5Q0 513 029 CJ — AUDI OE 5Q0 513 029 CK — AUDI OE 8S0 513 029 A — AUDI OE 8V0 513 029 F — AUDI OE 5Q0 513 029 GN — AUDI OE 8S0 513 029 D — AUDI OE 8V0 513 029 H — AUDI OE 8S0 513 029 B — AUDI OE 5Q0 513 029 CM — AUDI OE 5Q0 513 029 BM — AUDI OE 5Q0 513 029 ER — AUDI OE 8V0 513 029 E — AUDI OE 8S7 513 029 D — AUDI OE 8S7 513 029 G — AUDI OE 5Q0 513 029 HQ — AUDI OE 8S7 513 029 F — AUDI OE 5Q0 513 029 HH — AUDI OE 5Q0 513 029 JF — AUDI OE 5QF 513 049 BL — AUDI OE 5Q0 513 029 ES — AUDI OE 5Q0 513 029 HR — AUDI OE 5QF 513 049 BM — AUDI OE 5QF 513 049 CD — AUDI OE 5QF 513 049 CE — AUDI OE 8V0 513 029 J — AUDI OE 3Q0 513 049 FN — SKODA OE 5Q0 513 029 GC — SKODA OE 5Q0 513 029 FL — SKODA OE 5Q0 513 029 EF — SKODA OE 3Q0 513 049 FR — SKODA OE 5Q0 513 029 FN — SKODA OE 5Q0 513 029 FB — SKODA OE 3Q0 513 049 FT — SKODA OE 5QF 513 049 AS — SKODA OE 5Q0 513 029 DF — SKODA OE 5Q0 513 029 KB — SKODA OE 3Q0 513 049 FQ — SKODA OE 5Q0 513 029 FQ — SKODA OE 5Q0 513 029 ED — SKODA OE 5Q0 513 029 FD — SKODA OE 5Q0 513 029 GD — SKODA OE 5Q0 513 029 EE — SKODA OE 5Q0 513 029 FC — SKODA OE 5QF 513 049 AT — SKODA OE 3Q0 513 049 GA — SKODA OE 5Q0 513 029 KC — SKODA OE 3Q0 513 049 FP — SKODA OE 3Q0 513 049 FS — SKODA OE 3Q0 513 049 GB — SKODA OE 5Q0 513 029 DD — SKODA OE 5Q0 513 029 DE — SKODA OE 5Q0 513 029 DL — SKODA OE 5Q0 513 029 DN — SKODA OE 5Q0 513 029 DT — SKODA OE 5Q0 513 029 FP — SKODA OE 5Q0 513 029 KD — SKODA OE 5Q0 513 029 KE — SKODA OE 5Q0 513 029 KL — SKODA OE 5QF 513 049 AH — SKODA OE 5QF 513 049 AJ — SKODA OE 5Q0 513 029 FF — SEAT OE 5Q0 513 029 LF — SEAT OE 5Q0 513 029 CT — SEAT OE 5Q0 513 029 DK — SEAT OE 5Q0 513 029 HT — SKODA / SEAT OE 5QN 513 049 AR — VW / AUDI https://www.autodoc.co.uk/sachs/14922297

I think you miss the point of a V8 a V8 = happiness which in turn lowers stress (which has the side effect of people produce less heat and so it helps save the planet)

Ethanol works well for forced induction because it allows more ignition advance, zero ethanol is better for cooking N/A engines with no loss of power.

Renault is the biggest culprit with different wheel bolts for the spare. Alloy wheel bolts have washers, Steel wheel bolts don't. MB also had some where you need to use shorter wheel bolts with the spare steel wheel. Fit the longer wheel bolts on a steel wheel to the rear and you damage the internal handbrake mechanism inside the disk as soon as you drive. Thanks. AG Falco

Yes there's update to 0253, I will send in 15 minutes roughly

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/438447-2012-2014-cthe-mk2-fabia-vrs-timing-chain-issues/page/2 see post by @pearce_jj http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/435977-timing-chain ?? Are you using E5 Super Unleaded 97 or 99 ron, or E10 95 Unleaded?

nta16's wife drives a Fabia MK3 90HP, so only has 256mm front brake discs. It's the more powerful cars that have the bigger 288mm front brake discs. But like you say, a workaround if you get a puncture and have front brake discs bigger than 256mm, is to fit the 14" spare to the rear and then put the bigger 15"+ rim on the front.

I have not in the history of this forum ever seen anyone with the problems listed above sort it out by replacing the crank speed sensor as it just stops the car from starting if it does go faulty I will however eat humble pie if it is that at fault but I have had the exact same problems the op has stated in the past and both times it’s been either a vacuum leak or a faulty map sensor as these engines do not run a MAF sensor so rely on the map sensors for most things

Have you been on carwow? If you want to look at all the options that seems like a good place to start. For the £20-£24k price range, maybe take a look at the Audi A1. The Audi A1 1.0TSI 110HP DSG starts at under £23k with the usual discount. Same platform as the Fabia/Polo/Ibiza. I heard that this current A1 model is the last Audi will build, as I suspect they are going to concentrate on their higher priced cars with higher profit margins. Or maybe the VAG group are simply going to price the Polo/Fabia/Ibiza cars at the level of the current Audi A1. The Audi A1 insurance group is higher. Around 18/50 insurance group for the 110HP cars, but might depend on exact model. The Skoda Fabia insurance group is lower. Around 13/50 insurance group for the 110HP cars, but might depend on exact model. See "insurance group" moneysupermarket.com for car insurance groups https://www.moneysupermarket.com/car-insurance/groups/

That wouldn't cause the rev counter to dip violently.

Ah, now here is a thing - yes you can, not with Skoda Connect only though, you need the key or the scanners thieves use to start it. But you can drive without the key. But it causes problems when you stop and turn off the engine - see below!!!!!!! You can start the car as long as the signal from the key reaches the sensors and they think the key is inside - hence how those little a**holes that nick cars with scanners do it. Once the car is stopped and the engine is turned off, they can't be restarted again though. Also, you can start the car, take the key away from the car and still drive it. Used to happen to me and my oppo at work all the time (Motorway Coppers in BMW's). We used to swap over driving half way through the shift but the person that started sometimes kept the keys. On a few occasions I've either been dropped off at base with the keys or dropped my oppo off with the keys and then gone to fuel up at the petrol station - then oooops, a very embarrassed traffic copper with an expensive BMW 330, 530 or X5 on the garage forecourt waiting for the oppo to bring the keys!!!!!!!

I shall send this via Private Message MHIG_EU_SK_K1552 MU Version 0411

Also, the factory spec gap is 0.8>0.9 mm

I run these plugs gapped at 0.6mm https://www.akstuning.co.uk/shop/home/119-ngk-bkr7eix-iridium-spark-plugs-2667.html

You should be running NGK BKrie7 spark plugs

I myself live in oldham if you need any help

Been having 12v issues with my Octavia IV vrs since I got it last year. It was in the garage for 3 months last year attempting to fix it, seemed ok for a couple of months then all of a sudden complete discharges of the battery overnight again. Just picked it up from the fuse flashback fire risk issue recall and they found the December 2022 firmware update to fix the 12v issue, hoping it's fixed now, next couple of days will tell as would almost always be dead if I didn't plug in the hv charging cable over night. Also did loads of firmware updates on Infotainment system as that kept rebooting. Hoping but not holding my breath that this is the end of 2 years of issues with 2 separate Octavia vrs's...

Clean it off, run the car for a few days and see where it leaks from, it will be the pipe or the injector itself. then that leaky part will need replacing, ideally you want to prime the system after replacement with a diagnostic tool then you should be all good to go

A workmate has a 10 reg 1.6 CR Octavia that he has from brand new. Like everyone else he started at the dealer, then independants - now he does all the rudimentary maintenance himself and anything that's difficult he gets "Dave" Last year our dealer was doing deals on timing belt replacements for €350 all in for his type of engine - I contacted them as mine needed doing and at that price with genuine parts why not ! When I gave the reg no they said "Oh let me find out" They came back with €710 + VAT - I said about the deal and they basically told me that "That car is too old and parts would be hard to get" What they really wanted to say was "We don't want your tatty 18 year old car seen anywhere next or near this place as It will only create a bad impression for our new car buying customers" I got a Gates kit and pump and got Dave to do it for way less than that. This is my cars last stop so me keeping a rough history is probably nice to have but a fully stamped service book from a dealer is pointless to me anyway.

Great shot

They are full of guff, The Service Manager surely drives DSG's often if he has been with a Skoda Dealership any length of time unless his perk is some manual. The dealer principals will be a good car with a DSG as many Demonstrators the dealership has will be 2 pedal cars.

Got my last switch for dash I was waiting for, got some facelift rear lights coming tomorrow and I’ve fitted vrs badges now . Overall other then the steering wheel I’m pretty damn happy atm

Quite literally sweet fanny adams. Reckon it’s all on the dealer - told me the dealer would have sent the letter out and the dealer has no definitive timescale on when the new one will be in stock. I kept asking the guy about what Skoda UK knew or did or possible for and he wouldn’t answer. Seems to be no accountability from Skoda UK - he didn’t seem to give a t0ss anyway. For all the risk it’ll do me I might as well be a Skoda dealer.

The two wheel drive 2WD Passat B8 cars use the same selection of wheels (tyre sizes and rim specifications) as the Superb MK3 cars. However, the Passat Alltrack cars are four wheel drive 4x4, and use slightly bigger tyres, ie. 225/55R17, 245/45R18, 245/40R19 on slightly wider rims and usually with slightly less offset, ie. 8Jx17 ET41, 8Jx18 ET41, 8Jx19 ET41. The 8J rims for those 18" and 19" tyre sizes make sense with their 245/45R18 and 245/40R19 tyre sizes, but an 8J rim for a 225/55R17 tyre seems about 1" too wide (still legal though). wheel-size.com don't list any 16" wheels for the Passat Alltrack, the smallest being 17". On the Superb MK3, even the standard and narrowest 215/60R16 fitted to the standard 6.5Jx16 ET41 rim doesn't quite fit flush in the spare wheel well. Probably about 6mm too wide. But if you fit this 215/60R16 tyre size to a slightly narrower 6Jx16 ET43 rim (from the Karoq) it should fit flush. This is because the "215" in 215/60R16 is the nominal width and not the actual width of the tyre, ie. measured from the outside of one sidewall to the outside of the other sidewall, when the tyre is inflated. Many people incorrectly think that "215" is always the actual width, but this is not the case, as the actual width of any tyre is always dependent on the rim width that the tyre is fitted to. You can see this clearly on the Toyo website, who are one of the few tyre manufacturers to list the actual width of the tyres, although do bear in mind that they make lots of mistakes in their listings. As you can see in the Toyo chart below, Toyo list their 215/60R16 tyre size as having an actual width of 221mm when fitted to a 6.5J rim. However, if you were to fit this same tyre size to a narrower 6J rim (eg. a Karoq 6Jx16 ET43 rim) it would have an actual width of about 215mm, ie. it would have narrowed by about 6mm...and if you were to fit this same tyre size to a wider 7J rim (eg. a Yeti 7Jx16 ET45 rim) it would have an actual width of about 227mm, ie. it would have widened by about 6mm. I first came across this effect many years ago. I purchased eight identical tyres. Four had been fitted to 5J rims, and the other four had been fitted to 6J rims. I stacked them up next to each other with the four tyres on the 5J rims in one stack, and the other four tyres on the 6J rims in the other stack. The stack of four tyres fitted to the 6J rims was about 2" higher than the stack of four tyres fitted to the 5J rims. So this effect really does happen. This means that each tyre fitted to a 6J rim is about 0.5" (about 12mm) wider than each tyre fitted to a 5J rim. In the below Toyo chart, I've included some actual tyre width information on both 215/60R16 and 215/60R17 tyre sizes, so that you can see that the actual width isn't affected by the tyre diameter, but just the nominal tyre width, the aspect ratio, and the rim width. This is useful to know, because Toyo often makes mistakes with their tyre width information, so being able to look at another tyre with the same specification except for the tyre diameter is very useful. Example of Toyo tyre width information PROXES CF2 Proxes CF2 has been created to take advantage of the latest materials, structures and tread pattern design in order to guarantee a high level of safety, durability, savings, and comfort. Tire Size Tread Depth (mm) Overall Diameter (mm) Overall Width (mm) Approved Rim Width Range (inch) 215/60 R16 99V XL 8.7 664 221 6.0-6.5-7.5 215/60 R16 95H 8.7 664 221 6.0-6.5-7.5 215/60 R16 99H XL 8.7 664 221 6.0-6.5-7.5 PROXES CF2 SUV Proxes CF2 SUV was developed to complement the characteristics of smaller crossover and compact SUV cars. Tire Size Tread Depth (mm) Overall Diameter (mm) Overall Width (mm) Approved Rim Width Range (inch) 215/60 R17 96H 8 690 221 6.0-6.5-7.5 215/60 R17 96V 8 690 221 6.0-6.5-7.5 https://www.toyo.co.uk/tirefinder/index/width/215/aspect/60/rim/16 If you want to use a full size steel rim as a spare, then there's much less choice of sizes in the larger sizes compared to alloy rims. However, this situation has been improving slightly over the years. Although 16" rims aren't standard on the Alltrack, it does have 312mm front discs on the 2.0TDI 190HP model so 16" rims would clear the front brake calipers. oponeo.pl is a good website for finding out what steel rims are available. However, they don't ship to the UK. mytyres also sell steel rims, but you have to search by the car that they fit, so it's not a good website for finding out about all the steel rim specifications that are available. Using oponeo.pl you will become an expert on the specification of steel rims and what is available. When searching for available steel rim specification on oponeo, one top tip is to just search for Alcar rims (ie. use the filter), this cuts out having to search through the same rim specifications of multiple brands. With the advent of electric cars, some big steel rims used on various VAG cars have become available. Some big steel rims Alcar 9383 8Jx18 ET45 5/112 57.1 (from VW iD.4) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=1314745426959668336&rimCode=ALCAR9383 Alcar 9393 8Jx19 ET45 5/112 57.1 (from VW iD.4) Compared to the Alltrack offsets, these two rims shown in the above chart have 4mm more offset. Compared to the Superb MK3 rim sizes, it's only 1mm more offset, which is so close you wouldn't notice the difference. The above 8Jx19 ET45 steel rim isn't shown on mytyres. So if you wanted that size in the UK, you might have to purchase from a VAG dealer if availability can't be found elsewhere. Although someone who sells Alcar rims (or one of the other brands) should be able to order one in for you. For a spare, an extra 4mm of offset will hardly be noticed, so you should be safe driving around normally (if the tyre is a good match to what's already on the car) until you get the punctured tyre repaired.

It's finally happening. Handover scheduled for next week's friday. Can hardly believe it. It's been over a year since the original planned delivery date and over 1.5 years since the order.

Finally Google decided that today was the day for my Pixel 5 and my MIB2 (Superb MY17) to get the Coolwalk update!! Initial experience is positive. Mine is running through AAWireless and I can change the DPI setting which influences the layout. Mine is currently set to 128 DPI.

The million dollar question. It's not quick. It is let down by a bloody infuriating gearbox - or, to be more precise, the programming/mapping on the gearbox - and a throttle pedal that is as quick to react as a sloth who has OD'd on sleeping pills. It's never in the right gear and it takes too long to change down. Doesn't help that it is a 7-speed box so you invariably need it to change down 2 or 3 gears instead of the 1 or 2 that you would in a 'normal' 6-speed box. Sport mode is pretty much unusable around town unless you like driving round in a low gear and everyone staring at you for the resultant noise (although you can partly solve that by using the 'custom' mode and turning the noise generator off). On the other hand, sport mode is the only one that has an even remotely responsive throttle... it's a shame the 'drive' component of the 'custom' mode controls both the gearbox and throttle response - if you could change them independently then it would be a whole lot better. Having said all of that, learn the gears, hit 'sport' and shove the 'box into semi-auto, then point it at a typical UK B-road... and it can make very rapid progress, and for what it is (a big lump, not a sports car), it's a pretty decent drive and can be good fun. I've no idea what the power curve actually looks like, but keep the needle up above 3k-3.5k revs and it's responsive enough. Overtaking with a full load doesn't require a second thought (don't be stupid though), and if you keep the engine purring at the higher revs, you can end up going faster than you realise pretty darn quickly... but that's the biggest problem that I think most (if not all) large SUVs suffer from, they just don't have that sensation of speed because you're high up off the road. If you need something big enough to fit your family, dog, and enough crap (sorry, luggage) for a couple of weeks in the south of France, and still have a bit of fun now and then, I've yet to see something that offers the same package for less money. I love mine, and don't regret getting it at all. If I end up keeping it past the end of the PCP (I probably won't, just because I like new cars), then I'd look at tuning it (it's the venerable old Golf GTI lump so there are plenty of options) 😎. (Edit: tl;dr - not quick, but fun (and practical) nonetheless).

Personally went with B4 and Eibach Pro kit. Plenty firm enough but not too firm you lose fillings.

I'm not particularly bothered. As long as a car's beam pattern meets the MOT standard I couldn't care if they have HIDs, LEDs or paraffin lamps. varoom was delighted that they had changed the law to allow HID and LED conversions. I was just pointing out that they hadn't and they are still illegal and a possible MOT failure. I do not have an axe to grind either way. I may try an HID conversion for the Fabia as it is not too expensive an option but if I do so I will be fully cognisant of the facts.

Agree and in my case 100% trouble free. The OP has a Scout. Apart from his "off road" mode, should it behave as mine does when he selects S?

The company linked to is in Ruzzia; I'd guess that no-one in the Baltics is prepared to trade with them since February 2022.

Many thanks 🙂 Keep up the great work bigade1

@PetrolDave Maybe some stuff reverts back to the OEM factory settings when Software Updates are done, but with the Kangeroo affect that the 1.5 TSI's had they are not running the Engine Management / MAP that the cars that went through the WLTP / RDE did, because that is where the issues were. The cars were mapped to meet the emissions they required but could behave like crap. There are more than one software update since 2018. The latest cars should not have the pathetic Engine Management so poor behaviour but sadly some are reporting that they are. There are posts where people say it was only with the manuals, well that is not correct, as there were issues with DSG's as well, just not as noticeable to some, or in some cases just not a problem. Skoda / VW know which cars built when and where have the possible issues.

We call it on ours O4 1.5 TSI, kangaroo. Judder will occur as you release the clutch, and friction surfaces aren't really gently sliding over. We have different issue, after the clutch engages, when you press throttle it starts jumping up and down, like old carburetor cars when they choke. I don't know whether it is fixable, as I was reading this is resolved since 2019, but our car is brand new 2021...