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Just an update on the fuel consumption issue..... I have fitted a MAF sensor (Bosch) and the smoking issue, under hard acceleration, which has always been an issue, has disappeared completely. Also the fuel economy has come back. I also seems to run a lot better. Thank you for your advice.

Not much here but enough to warrant a post. Carburetor is off again awaiting another kit. Be getting another float to try, cork gasket and some new jets. Whether they are the correct jets or not who knows. Also Finally got it trailered out to the farm, didn't really want to be pulling the fuel tank at home so. Have finally found a backbox that will bolt up, to save me shelling out for getting the stainless one put on. New standard fit backbox.

First post here. After 15 months of waiting, it has finally arrived, VRS IV mamba green.

It was only ten minutes off which is one sixth of one degree. That wouldn't be noticeable at the steering wheel. They should be locking the steering wheel straight then adjusting both sides until they're aligned, it looks like they're just adjusting one side a fraction then asking for their money. It's up to you to stamp your feet and complain!

I have recently put together this data for EFB batteries, from Varta and Yuasa sources, for reference in the future. EFB - Enhanced Flood Battery (Simple Stop/Start) not for cars that use energy recovery. Charging voltages: EFB - Cycle (i.e on car) 14.4 Volt. Float (i.e on float charger) 13.4. Battery Condition: EFB Battery Volts %Charge Action 12.8 100 OK 12.4 75 OK 12.1 50 Charge 11.9 25 Urgent Charge If less than 11.9 volts it’s knackered! These are voltages measured with the car cold and after standing overnight and the engine is not running. With a battery in good condition, say 75% charged on engine start up and idling, you would expect to measure 14.4 or thereabouts on the battery terminals. After a decent run, or after a top up charge, then expect a voltage somewhere about 12.6V. On that basis I would expect to charge the battery overnight when it gets down to 12.2 ish. My new Scala gives me: Engine off V=12.54 v. Engine running on idle V=13.2. Battery has a high charge and the car is float charging it. Of course you need a test meter to do the voltage measurements, I believe that you can buy simple meters (i.e. have real digits rather than just ‘good’ ‘ok’ ‘low’ indicator lights) that plug into the cigar lighter socket. If in doubt and you haven’t run the car for a hour or so then I would charge the battery once every two weeks in a typical English winter and once every month in summer. Hope that helps, if only a little.

So not much done to this, but I'm updating other projects so why not update all of them. Not long after the last Post another short cropped up for the boost solenoid. Then the egr **** itself. So that fixed, another map on to map the egr off. Not entirely loving this new map, lot more midrange but robbed me of most of the top end that I had previous. Has a soft cut on it same as standard now too. I presume it's for smoke control for test. I've not noticed any smoke driving it hard however. Got some genuine arb bushes and swapped the poly ones out. Needed greasing far too often. Bit of trouble going back in as one of the bolts we're bent somehow. Borrowed one off another fabia for now. Not stopped driving it though even though its not been cheap to fix the wiring, and the cost of another map. Set the other fabia and the justy back for a while.

Sorry it's been so long to post. Anyway the Skoda is now sorted! New 12v battery was a dud! New 12v battery fitted & all is good.

That's what you call "driving like granny" if you've ever gone across Germany on an autobahn.

Thanks Varooom, I was happy to come back to Skoda when I got the Kamiq, but the Karoq is just confirming that I was correct in my decision to stay with Skoda and upgrade to the bigger, automatic SUV.

Thanks so much really appreciate 🙏

The key message there is decades ago the cambelt failed on a vauxhall. That's like me saying Ive had a mk 1 mx5 for nearly 25 years and can't remember ever changing the cambelt (maybe once donkeys years ago). It's never failed. It's a totally irrelevant statement in relation to modern engines from a different manufacturer. To me given the complexity of the job and the workshop manual requiring no replacement there is more risk involved doing the job and getting it wrong than there is not doing it.

Just to show my above economy can be replicated over a longer time period here's another showing I did 923 miles since refilling and still 90 mile range left. The fuel economy for such a large car really is very impressive. I spend lots of time on the motorway driving up and down the UK for my work, my Superb is now 4 months old and has 12k on the clock, I expect the economy to improve with summer temperatures. Time will tell if I can reach 80mpg+ on a run.

Hey folks, Needless to say, somewhere in the world a 2012 MK2 FL with 50k miles on the clock half way towards a service interval did 145Mph for about 20 seconds twice. Oil temp got to 119c. The owner would like to know if they've likely screwed their engine. Seems to sound the same as it did before the whoosh as they decided to give it the "beans" Not looking for my dad to reply and tell me or said friend off, just looking for advice.

My time with my petrol dsg vRS Estate will be ending on Monday when I collect a brand new Kodiaq SE L Executive 190tsi in black magic. This will be my third Kodiaq. I really can't say i'll miss the Octy apart from the looks. The vRS estate in race blue does look awesome imo. My main problems with the Octavia are the fake noise that I have to disable EVERY time I drive the car. The fact the fake noise is needed because the engine sounds like a bloody sewing machine. It sounds ok in VW and Seat so why not in the Skoda? The lane keep assist that also has to be disabled EVERY time. The early infotainment problems that have mostly been fixed it appears. I haven't driven on a motorway recently so couldn't say if the homicidal adaptive cruise would still be trying to kill me or not. I know it's a performance model but the fuel consumption still isn't good. Overall I won't miss the car as due to it's 'problems' I haven't really in all honesty enjoyed owning it. It's a 'sporty' model it should excite and for me it didn't. I'm sure others will disagree. The last time I felt this flat about a car was a 2007 VW Golf R32 which I also didn't really get along with, that was quick but by the time you were having fun you were going at silly speeds. Maybe i'm just getting old (I am) but that's how I feel after almost 2 years with the car. I think if the car had a 'fruity' exhause note, nothing too silly but something to show some sporting credentials I may have felt differently. Anyhow that's just my thoughts, some may agree, some might strongly disagree but I thought I would share,

1. yes, stay with 0480. 2. any 3. well, it can be any but you will not have Skoda HMI 4. possible 5. the question is on your budget and must have features 6. yes 7. to make it official - yes, however the unit can be patched and then ODIS is not required

just to throw more opinions into the pot, my car runs perfectly well on standard or super unleaded fuel. My concern with the ops car would be the fitted RTMG dump valve and R8 coil packs, what else is tweaked ? is it running an ECU map as well ? http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16490/P0106/000262

Sorry for late reply. Cheers for that, you were absolutely correct. It’s GL4 for the gearbox and GL5 for the diff and transfer case. All the best. Bob

I have only one SD slot so no way to make mistake. Everything else correct, exactly as you described. Week ago when those crash happened i was almost sure it's a software problem. But now I'm closer to that it is a hardware failure and i will need new device. SD card content:

The upgrade completed! Massive improvement over the previous setup. I guess the difference is mostly from the front upgrade. But I too like the view of the rear discs. The front 280mm look huge into the oem 15" alloys. Thank you all for the help!

Damn I was hoping it could just be replaced might have to see if I can tidy it up some

https://ownersmanuals.blob.core.windows.net/ownersmanuals/en/Fabia_NJ/11-2017/OwnersManual.pdf Page 236 snip

Have the photo saved, and then press choose files Then you should be able to attach/insert picture Example here

https://www.theskodashop.co.uk/collections/skoda-car-mats/skoda-citigo Thanks. AG Falco

Just picked mine up! Bit of a disappointment not getting a delivery on the new plate, but Skoda customer services pretty much said no chance mate when I escalated my complaint so it is what it is. Superb car on first impressions really enjoyed the 55mile or so trip back from the dealer got to know it a bit and with dcc is no less comfortable than my old 1.5tsi. Good luck to everyone still waiting the dealer said Octavia are a nightmare loads of alternative models with much shorter lead times but just sucks what’s going on right now. I was told my order (march 28 2022) was a cancellation car that was originally placed august 2021 not convinced that’s entirely true but hang in there people. Pics to follow when I can.

Thank you very much, seems the part below should be a fit then.

Engine code as mentioned in PM is DFGA Here is the part number for that engine code 06K 103 485 D

The autocar article: https://www.autocar.co.uk/opinion/new-cars/why-there-still-place-diesel-cars-2023

Ongoing problem still……I have uncovered the relays (as previously pictured) under the steering column. I’ve checked all the relays are firmly seated. Since the AA came (and the car started for him!) the car has started up okay. This morning it wouldn’t start so I checked relays again and it still wouldn’t start. I then (ignition off) tried to find any loose wires going into the rear of the relay system and the car started. Now to wait until the car won’t go and repeat that particular move. Meanwhile the ‘chimes’ when unlocking still sound off, between 5 and 8 seconds…maybe an indicator of something wrong? The car is booked for the garage next week when I’m told an auto electrician with a full diagnostic programme that can trace when and why the car has failed to start will be attending.

The problem is they do fail and the consequences are very expensive. Decades ago my cambelt failed on my Vauxhall, 3 weeks after a replacement. Wasn’t the cambelt that caused it but the water pump off the same belt. At least that design doesn’t apply to the 1.5 TSI petrol. my friend had his replaced on his Diesel Octavia on the 5 year interval. He asked for his old parts to be returned. He is an engineer by trade and his visual inspection could not find any external sign of wear, and all tensioner bearings and water pump run smooth. I am sure an actuary would calculate that the cost of prevention for the entire engine population costs far more that rectifying the damage to the rare failure of modern belts. but you have to allow for poor design. My daughter has a Yeti. Again recommended to have timing belt change at 5 years. However it is a chain not belt, so I investigated why. Turns out the tensioner is worked of the oil pressure and when/ if the chain stretches the the tensioner extends too far and retracts when the engine is turned off. On a cold start the chain doesn’t break, but can jump some cogs resulting in catastrophic damage before the tensioner pumps up. such bad design should be the manufactures responsibility to correct as not fit for purpose, but that won’t happen soon.

When was this ? I can believe it. However, they’ve probably learned how to reduce the “quality giveaway” on cam belts.

In Kodiaq this engine doesn't sound any better. It can be coded, but default behavior in Kodiaq will be the same i think. Haven't had such issues, my ACC works ok. But again - in Kodiaq you have exactly same system. I would expect Kodiaq to consume 20-30% more than O4. I'm not defending your O4 here. It's pretty subjective, but i understand your feelings about this car. My point is, that you're changing O4 to Kodiaq, which is based on exactly same platform and tech, so at least some of the issues you had with O4 will also be present in Kodiaq. You probably should've look at some other brands.

👍nice easy fix

When you say all the fuses, does that include the strip fuses and blade fuses in the battery-top fuseholder?

A car from Motability was pretty stress free for lots of people. Sign over about £63 a week (going to £71) and get a new car every 3 years . No VED, no insurance or servicing or repairs to pay, no MOT's, & nothing other than a £75 excess with an insurance claim and fuel, you even get money back if returned in a good condition. Then EV's were available and they even installed a home charger. Now with public charging costing as much or more than some of the more economic cars on offer with nil or no advance payment the EV's might not make much sense. Then as much as there is talk of accessible public chargers for those with disabilities it is fiction. So there are more limit choices of affordable EV's from Motability and the low or nil advance payments ones have smaller batteries so less range which really means charging required more often. Personally after this car goes back i will opt out of having an EV for a year or 3. I will probably extend the lease as i paid a high advance payment and i can still charge it cheap locally if i need to and for a reasonable cost away from home. The issue that causes the bl00d pressure to rise is the ignorance of many that like to just take their car to free or less than the home tariff for charging and leave their car until they decide to collect it again. I am tight and greedy, but while playing the game i am with the car while charging on Rapids and ready to stop charging and lets others do so. The if still need more of a charge use a slow chargers to get the last 10 or even 20% of a charge if a full battery is required.

In the Skoda parts catalogue, these rims are listed for both the Kamiq and the Scala as original equipment. The difference being that these rims were fitted with 215/45R18 tyres on the Kamiq, and 205/45R18 tyres on the Scala. 658601025G Aluminium rim Diamond silver 7Jx18 ET39 https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SCA/584/6/601/601080

I think you miss the point of a V8 a V8 = happiness which in turn lowers stress (which has the side effect of people produce less heat and so it helps save the planet)

Using a dumb charger is fine as long as you don't leave it on the battery for a long period of time, a more modern smart battery charger is a better option. It doesn't even have to be AGM or EFB compatible it just won't charge the battery fully as the fully charged voltages are higher on EFB and AGM than a normal lead acid battery. It is also pretty pointless charging the battery up to 100% anyway as the first thing the car will do is discharge the battery down to 80% to make room for energy recovered by the alternator while braking and when under engine braking (diesels from 2015 ish not sure about petrol models)

No wonder - he didn’t have a clue. Almost feel sorry for him. Will sack that off and just stick a complaint in a couple of weeks. Cheers toot

Just fitted facelift rear lights so now I’m in cool down mode for abit, just needs a service soonish

Safe to say I absolutely love it! Money well spent! Never did like the vRS wheels that much anyway! 😂

Full of BS Corporation-Speak and employing Customer Service Manglers (sic) who couldn't tell their rear end from their elbow.

I'd get a V8 and lower your stress levels

My time is worth more than a slight fuel saving cost. That may change once I retire, of course

Some new bits - Swapped the Eibach springs out for h&r so should be around 10mm down front and rear - EBC Yellowstuff pads to go with the Ebc slotted discs I already have - Powerflex arb bushes - Various genuine new bolts and rear top mounts

I'd drive it flat out again for about another 5 miles or so, just to be sure.....😆

Maybe not but one would hope that the sane Russians affected by the sanctions continue to put pressure on the"nutters", to end the war and depose the madman.

I don't see why they could not time it without the VVT. It was not "out of time" before they did the chain was it............ Have they worked on these engines before ?