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The dealers coffee was on point

Rusted through on a 2015 car?! My 2002 Octavia still has the original dust shields. Maybe they don't make them like they used to! 😄

I should also mention this car has been named... It's so good, it's actually terrible... Wait for it... Franz FORDinand.

On ST XA coilovers in the Scottish Borders 👍

In a former life I was a marine engineer and loved my 20,000 main engine with 1,000 hp generators and what they could do ie push a 100,000 ship through the water and round the world so diesel, and petrol, torque from an internal combustion engine is something I appreciate. I did not know about this and this is so impressive I think. Somebody had a brain storm particularly replacing those massive 1,000 litre saddle diesel tanks with battery packs which can be changed faster than the old diesel tanks could be filled with diesel. Maintenance and running most massive big wins. My big worry would be gangs stealing the battery packs which are worth an absolute fortune !!! e

Hi, yes, it was the wire to the reversing sensor.

No luck with halfords autocenter..they checked alignments and they are perfect but they don't work for range leveller. N.B: hurrahhh..problem found..one if the youtube video helped me a lot..its rear passenger side sensor snapped. Now the guy is trying to fix

@TadyTheFish - it appears Skoda changed their guidance at some point based on the snippet from the 10.2013 manual posted by @T07 above and the same section from a 04.2020 edition. Personally, I'd go with the latest version but even this is now 3 years old: Might be worth an hour on erwin to get the latest version. It's only €7 + tax normally

https://www.all-stars-motorsport.com/en/engine/14270-je-forged-pistons-for-polo-6r-gti-ibiza-6j-cupra-fabia-vrs-14-tsi-180-36332x-2000000093956.html#/bore-765mm Killer price, killer quality. https://www.speedingparts.co.uk/p/model-specific/vag-audi-seat-skoda-vw/14l-16v-tsi-ea111-blg-cava-cavd-caxa/zrp-conrod-kit-vag-14l-tsi-ea111.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiA6rCgBhDVARIsAK1kGPL2gdlCtokSlkQRO1mjqPGkYJEnab_dftrtRZG60IPpPtCvXUd1G18aAnraEALw_wcB# Extraordinarily cheap, prolly Chinese but stronger than standard so...

A little trip up to Scotland last week before the snow.

That's the most sensible thing I've heard in terms of EV's in a really long time. Love the fact that they're recycling what could well be an end of life vehicle.

My first post here. I have to say that the 21 pages of knowledge and wisdom accumulated here is astounding. I did a few mods that some may find a little extreme. ST XA coilovers (I had a good deal for new ones), 245/40 R19 Conti Sport Contact 7 tyres and Racechip GTS to name a few. All these led to levels of NVH that are honestly quite bad, esp on rough roads. Now that I have expended all my budget on the above mods, I went on to DIY sound deaden/proof my FL 2020 Superb. Following the advice here, I have done: 1) Bonnet (2 layers) 2) Boot (2 layers) 3) B Pillar 4) Outside Wheel Arches/Fenders (2 layers) 5) Front Floor (partial 2 layers. i didn't want to take out the console or front seats) 6) Driver's Door (2 Layers) About to do the other doors, wheel arch inside, roof lining and probably seat bench. I can say (according to my butt dyno) that the car has about the similar comfort levels as my old(er) 2013 Audi A4, plus higher performance and a whole lot more boot space. Yes, even with coilovers, it's amazingly comfortable at factory settings. I'm stunned! I had never imagined that the sound deadening would actually settle the vibrations and road feel. Can't wait to do the rest!

Various manuals available to download here:

Yes you can buy a replacement for most parts. it’s a bit late now but tomorrow I’ll find you part numbers for plugs and terminals

Hi, am getting the mot done at the dealer, who are not going to charge me for resetting the interval. Thanks for all the advice! Mark

I have tried to do basic headlamp settings and all of a sudden warning triangle with sound popped in to the dashboard saying headlight range controller faulty. I think screw fix is not working ..does anyone know the part number of this sensor?

Yes the same.

It would be better to fix the wiring first before looking again at the flap motor as it will be getting a reduced voltage via the corroded cables. This will reduce the power of the motor as it is a dc motor. Once the cables are fixed the flap motor may not need any attention. There is a procedure to test and reset all the flap motors by pressing a combination of climatronic buttons. The exact buttons to use varies with the model year. There are videos on line which show how to do it on certain models.

Not been back at it yet. Been plotting what I'm going to need to take when I go to try and get it running. The weather at the moment is far too bitter for me to want to do anything with the car.

It's never a bad idea to have a real oil pressure gauge with a capillary feed even if you blank it off once the engine is running, tested and known to be good.

I wasn't going to mention the cheese graters (cruel nickname, but very apt) now you have said it, I agree with you on that too! Car looks fantastic, pleased for you.

I would miss ours but if I take it out of its holder, it disintegrates. I would replace it but not at 40 bloody quid.

Thanks for that Modders I wasn't really bothered before but I have two frozen shoulders now ( it's my age ) so a little help wouldn't go amiss. Dont fancy the aftermarket ones as they look a bit of a bodge and you never know the quality of the struts themselves. Oh well just have to struggle for a bit longer. Luckily only ever lift the bonnet to top up the washers.

ISTR there was a fire risk issue on some engine variant so they stopped fitting covers. AFAIK that wasn't the1.5 but I suspect they decided they could cut costs by not fitting covers to all engines!

hi BB, I think I know what you’re getting at. By compulsory, did you mean the cars do not have the function to permanently disable keyless entry? To each their own. I personally would like to have the choice myself to decide if I have keyless entry, permanently on or not. Best wishes. Martin

hi ‘82 I hear where you’re coming from, and in a carefree world, that’s exactly the approach I would take! Why stress about something? in a city, why do people Nick ratty bicycles? Why do people, Nick rubbish mopeds? It’s because it’s there, and it’s nickable. Ok Scalas are not high end, However, in the current world, the car is priceless, if it’s a wet, dark, miserable evening, and I want to get home. If I don’t have the car, because it’s pinched, I can’t enjoy it! 🙂 Best wishes. Martin.

I would disagree on this one. I loved magnetic boot light. Try changing the wheel when holding your mobile in one hand. Whereas with magnetic light you can stick it to the car body and have two free hands to do anything. Same with quick check under the hood, etc. This one I do miss.

1) Flap motor. I do know whether the motors are small dc motors or, more likely stepper motors. That is what I would have used if I was designing it. You would need specialist equipment to test a stepper motor outside the car. Cables. As Pete said, first repair the damaged cables. I would say the likely cause of your problem is the corrosion of the 60A and 100A cables at their terminations shown in your second picture. The 100A double black cable has its strands of wire so badly corroded that it is almost certain to be the cause of your Terminal 30 fault code. Make repairs to both the 60A double cable and the 100a black double cable. I would suggest letting an auto electrician do the work as he will have the the correct cable, crimp connector and crimping tools. He may find other places with cable corrosion that is not in your photos. Did you find any corrosion on the rear of the printed circuit board?

Make my PHEV mamba look like a tractor ;D

I thought immediately of you. As long as the oil flows is a fallacy, it needs a minimum pressure to create a hydrodynamic films seperating the crankshaft from the bearings, for pressure it needs resistance to flow, there are several restriction points in an engine be they fixed drillings, metered hole sizes in gaskets or hollow dowels with metered bores especially to restrict oilflow to the cylinder head and in your case quite possibly something in the timing chain case to restrict flow to the variable cam timing actuators, another possibility is the piston cooling jets if they were the wrong size either through incompatibility or incorrect manufacture. Other than leaving out a metering dowel and paying scrupulous attention to oil passage hole sizes in gaskets you have precious little chance of preventing the problem and equally slim chances of finding the lack of restriction afterwards. Pattern part gaskets are often the cause of pressure drop.

Interesting post, thanks for this. I’ve had absolutely f*ck all information from my lease company and from contacting the dealer direct. I’d cancel my order but as it’s a company car my hands are kind of tied (plus the list of alternatives is rubbish and prices have gone up). So I am now going to write a strongly worded E mail of disgust to Skoda UK and see where that gets me (obviously I know it’ll get me nowhere at all but it’ll make me feel slightly better….maybe😄)

Interesting, I wonder why they dropped the front sensor. Still that would explain why front suspension work has made the OP's headlights so out of spec You're probably looking in the wrong place... I don't have the exact module/wording as I've lent my VCDS to a mate so I can't double check. Still, at a guess you need to look at the measuring blocks under either 09 or 4B. I'd hope there is something similar to "Sensor Signal - Rear (G76/G77)" which gives a percentage, you might also have a "Sensor Signal - Front (G78/G289)". If you're only getting data from the rear sensor, that suggests you only have one sensor fitted and you just need to perform basic settings and a headlight alignment, please see the details below. It's a bit more complex than that post makes out to do it correctly, longer instructions below:

@OldKaroq Thank you 😊 Its ‘Graphite Grey’ in Škoda speak, slightly darker than ‘Business Grey’ 👍🏻 Very early days but having done around 70 miles so far I’m very impressed, I need to get some centre caps ordered so I can take the cheese graters off the wheels though, can’t say I’m a fan…

Yup, the power delivery is early and then drops off courtesy of the small turbo, and to an extent, the factory intercooler. The small turbo generates too much heat too early, in turn the intercooler isn't up to the job, thus increasing the intake air temps (IAT). The ECU sees this and reduce boots, power drops. The outside ambient air temp was 20 deg Celsius when we did the runs. The IATs were getting hotter after each run. Not surprised. I wasn't expecting it to hold steady all through the rev band. A bigger turbo will help to prolong that power delivery. Likewise a larger intercooler will also aid in sustaining the power band longer. My next move is to get a larger intercooler, but I'll b looking at doing that towards the end of our winter.

No. I confirm that makes a bong or chiming sound.

You told me its name ages ago and it still makes me laugh

I’d love a superb EV based on the 800v architecture platform. edit…. Especially an estate 👍

I found it, it is from 2006, and mine is from 2002, Tech1e said that i should get fuel sender, i found one excatly from vrs 2006 with pump for €25 and i hope it will do the work.

As you're told which one has failed, then just replacing the faulty one makes sense to me. If you were getting a garage to do it, then having all 4 done at once would make more sense as there would be a minimum charge each time you went just to replace one glow plug.

So yours is 2018 MY, so yes LED headlights are definitely available, and should have front and rear sensors. Maybe you need to interrogate your car with scanner a little more, and physically look again for signs of sensor/cable.

Winter mode. Lowered little with h&r adjustable springs and 10mm spacers on 18inch wheels

Finally picked up the Karoq today despite the weather’s best efforts to thwart me 😆 I didn’t get a photo at the dealership as it was bitter cold to say the least and then by time I got home the car was completely covered road grime and salt so obviously I had to give it a quick wash 🥶😂 Here’s the only photo to date, a less than glamorous shot of it on the drive post-wash in failing light, I’m sure I’ll be spamming this thread with more in the future…

Finally something positive after 15 months of waiting: Superb 280 Style with options, ordered 12/21. Preliminary build week 6 deleted after a few months. Received a confirmed build week 9 a week ago and now it is finally confirmed as built and should be delivered by April.

Had a little accident month ago, woman was backing into parking spot and went full pedal to the metal into me, ruined my front end, car was fixed but I ended up swapping grill and added front splitter, few more bita coming in following weeks.

And all this is in an hysterical chase for reducing CO2 tailpipe emissions, in reality the overall emissions are probably worse due to the amount of oil being burnt and the life of the cat (and G/DPF when fitted) is going to be significantly reduced.

I had been through too much trauma by then to gamble any more, the unit cost us £5k ish with discount and no VAT, currently the unit, 03C 100 092 DX, is £7976.40 retail inc VAT, a bit of an increase in 3 years never mind 7! @toot I would not touch one of those cheap fleaBay recons with yours, never mind my own…😒

I have my 272 booked in for a remap with Avon Tuning on 1st March. 272 is great but, as you say, 350 with AWD will increase drivability somewhat! My last car had 365bhp and I miss that. I have decided not to do anything else at this point. So no DSG map and no hardwear changes. Happy with the DSG as is. Changes are super fast and smooth. I want to keep the family bus just as it is, but with a little more power when needed. Will either start a thread or post up in ‘what have you done to your Superb today’ once done and driven a bit.

I took my chances and straightened the connector and then i was able to fit the part in the steering wheel. Continuity test was ok . \m/

For parts and part numbers, whilst not ideal, this might give you some initial help: https://ifinterface.com/ Press: Welcome Press top right tab: Free Services Press: CarProg2 Select: Language if other then English Change VW dropdown & Select: Skoda Select: Scala Select and double-click on: Year - eg. 2019, 2020 or 2021 Thereafter have fun! Otherwise you register, log in your VIN and pay your EUR €8.40 per hour using: https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do