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Concentrate on the insufficient diesel pressure as that's what will cause poor running. Faulty glow plugs will just make starting more difficult.

Lovely sunset this evening............

They always easy! Until they're not. Ive personally never had one snap or strip but good practice is to soak in penetrant, get the engine nice and hot, let it cool down again. After this i tighten them ever so slightly till i feel them move a tiny bit Then slowly undo using nothing bigger than a 1/4' ratchet. Going back in they always get a clean of the bore, pencil wire brush to the bottom and a clean with brake cleaner then the plug itself gets a very very light coat of ceramic white grease and the glowplug gets torqued to spec. The main cause of snapping/stripping is either over tightened plugs or bores that arent clean allowing carbon/soot to work its way up and bind the glowplugs into the bores. Dont take any of this as gospel but from a time served mechanic with a good track record of snapping none so far, its my method that hasnt failed. (plusgas is my penetrant of choice )

Don't know about you guys, but once you have had a vehicle with a self dipping mirror you tend to miss it.......and it's always annoyed me the fabia don't have one, now there is one listed in the parts catolouge and I did think of gettting one of those, however I would not have had the loom in the vehicle, so would have had to purchase that + it most probably is quite expensive.............. If your not aware 99% of oem mirrors are made by Gentex, so bought one of those and a simple 2 wire installation and its all done, looks completely factory, you have to also buy the adpater to fit the VAG screen mirror mount and I wanted to hide the wire so bought the loom cover to.......................very pleased 😁 total about £90 ish... The thing I do like is it has a button to turn itoff if you so desire.

Investigating where the oil leak was coming from. It’s not oil it’s power steering fluid leaking from the pump. Also adjusted the right headlight as it wasn’t sitting right.

#gumbootrally round the mountain charity run.

Some recent pics Gear shifter bushing finally arrived, and what a difference! It had got so bad that third and first were about in the same place.

I fitted a Superb autodimming mirror in a Fabia. I had one spare after fitting a High Beam assist one in the Superb instead. I only needed a bracket, glued it to the windscreen and connected the electrics to the internal light.

I did a factory reset and the popping sound has magically disappeared completely. Let's see if it will stay that way, but in any way, that was quite unexpected. What could it be so that a factory reset fixed the issue? I also can't remember if the infotainment system is supposed to boot up when unlocking the car or when turning the ignition on. As per now after the factory reset, the infotainment system boots up when turning the ignition on, but if my memory isn't failing me I think that it used to boot when unlocking the car. Since it is working well now I would love to know what the issue was and what setting / software issue caused the popping sound.

Bought this about a year ago ( for our Jack Russell ) fits well been washed a couple of times would recommend bit pricey though £35 from Amazon will take a couple of photos tomorrow to show fit in my vrs

That would be very worrying to me and was a big concern when I was experiencing the frequent regens. Which reminds me to check my oil level more often now that it is not self diluting! An oil change is imminent but the last one must have been done after the rollback. Your ECU update sounds like a Diselgate fix by stealth, deny the vehicle is affected then quietly modify them before it can be proved that they also cheated emissions. From my experience the fix massively increases the amount of EGR activations and their duration which in turn requires more frequent regens, I stopped my EGR by using an Emulator/Simulatior but the ECU still thinks it is happening so it did not reduce the frequent regens until I had the "fix" rolled back. For me and my engine (EU5 I believe) I think they were both good decisions, they cost probbaly £350 or £400 but I think will save me far more in the long run, just the reduced anxiety os worth the spend, I could not drive a car knowing it was diluting its oil, that I had to extend journeys and drive for no reason other than to let the ECU do its thing and to worry that any long journey might be the one where the EGR cooler gave up of the DPF finally got completely clogged. Having VCDS to monitr things helps. Sorry for any typos

@Hilly81The Service history will make the difference when going for any Warranty Plan. If everything checks out for the 'All in plan' then you just be sure of the T&C's and if they might take your money but then knock back any claims because Servicing is not to the manufacturers specifications. Plenty Approved used Skoda have not been serviced to the Manufacturers Guidelines, Recommendations, Schedules or Specifications but they still warranty for 12 months or 24 months. that is a different kettle of fish though. They are simply clever and ignore their own T&C's.

All sorted, given up with the Mercedes’ alloys, will sell on eBay! thank for replies Garth

Good luck. I've had dealings with VAG cars and corrosion. Always the same response: 1. Need to check paintwork was inspected at service (never is) 2. Rust is on outside and not from inside and is not perforated. i.e not covered 3. Rust has come about due to external mechanical damage e.g wheel arch cover, boot handle. I.e not covered. I found that searching online for similar issues points to some dealers being better than others for accepting warranty claims. It's the dealer attitude that makes or brakes this I'm afraid. Good luck, hope you get it sorted.

Nice one, the Octavia looked to be in good condition. I'm sure you'll enjoy it! The main reason I got my inspection done at the Skoda garage was because I had always planned to go for the All In package and part of it they do an inspection for a couple hours, but if you trust your local VAG specialist, then it's totally up to you. It's just a case of getting that 2nd opinion on the car so you can go back to Cazoo if anything is needed. Plus, weigh up your options, to me a warranty sounded good piece of mind along with the servicing and MOT's, and that cost's £29 a month for 2 years. But you could equally put the same amount in savings and use it for servicing/MOT at your local VAG specialist. Either way, I hope you enjoy the car mate. Do post back and let us know how you got on with collection etc.

Quick pass with the DA and Menzerna polish. Needs lots more time to get it really shiny though.

The worst are the 3.0L V6 CR TDI, the noise they make coming out is like a stuck pig! We have had a few snap and a specialist comes out and removes them.

Even with my low spec car when I manually unlock the car with the remote the internal lights come on. If I have left the car unlocked in my garage then they come on when I open any of the doors or boot lid.

No insist that it's an original Skoda part or screen.

Yes, that'll do. 507 00 is the clue.

Bought the Octavia. Couldn't justify the extra cost (Initial and running) of the Superb and the Octavia ticks all the boxes. Collect on the 29th. Undecided whether to get an inspection done at my local Skoda or my current VAG specialist (Who I trust) Unit20 in Neston. Pretty sure I'm going to go with the 'All In' deal as well as at £840, it looks good value although I would rather get my servicing done at Unit20 than a dealer ultimately.

Personally I'm not quite at that stage yet; first need to get them to investigate and confirm there is a problem and what they're going to do about it. Of course, if this drags on for too long then the threat of press intervention may help to 'motivate' them! Yes, I made sure to mention that - should be easily testable by comparing to other vehicles on site.

Get them to go check other vehicles in their yard, I will 100% guarantee none of them will have TMC functioning (the guy I spoke to went and checked his own personal car (a golf) and confirmed that wasn't working either).

Sent now for you.

You need to remove the connection from that plug before you can get to the glow plug head. Is that what you mean? You also need a decent socket extender and deep socket head to get the socket wrench down into the glow plug mount but this also helps with access. Mine was about a foot long. I watched 2 different videos on this and they were both really helpful. This guy's method for undoing stuck plugs worked perfectly for me. https://youtu.be/BJkltDdSYV8

IMHO this is too big. People say its will appeal to Passat owners, its much bigger. It will turn out to be another Phaeton, great car for a market that doesn't exist. Put the fancy new drive train into the ID.3 and sell millions. Build something smaller VW.

To do a main timing chain, tensioner and rails used to be from about £700. But that was 4 years ago. At a skoda dealer was from about £950 at the same time. It's probably 5 or 6 hours work. And if it is one of the other tensioner that will add a bit more in labour and parts but the bulk of the cost is getting everything opened up. How many miles on the car? How long have you owned it?

I checked, and it is still there with the car not moving. Also, probably because the car is no moving, the vibration is more evident physically.

all good. The DCC setup is 10mm lower than standard suspension, hence why the Eibach only drops it 20mm. good luck with ur setup.

You HAVE to use a genuine Skoda sd card which has built in files to operate the system. An ordinary sd card will not work. If you bought it from a dealer you need to raise it with them that no card was supplied.

I believe you can't change the default drive mode as WLTP mandates that the car has to default to the mode in which it was tested. Unless, anyone knows if it's possible to change this with VCDS...?

You’re a star Breezy_Pete. Most excellent info. I shall be contacting a heated windscreen manufacturer shortly & I’ll post a reply to let you know how I get on

I'm pretty certain this has been discussed before and the answer is "you can't". Sorry!

Ribblehead Viaduct?

Golf uses different mount for sure. I used complete Felicia 1.6 subframe so I can use the transmission stabiliser (mount).

There is a lot more involved than just coding... You have about 5 different parts to the gateway setup Coding Adaptations Dataset Component protection SWAP Coding and adaptations may change from a low to a high module. Dataset is vehicle specific and must be done with a tool like ODIS or VCP Component protection can only be done with ODIS SWAP codes must only be done with ODIS. You are a long way off having a complete working car at the moment. Your best bet is to find out what the direct replacement for your car is from the etka catalog and then find someone with ODIS who can run SVM/Module replacement on the gateway - that way everything will be perfect and working. Else you will be struggling for a long time.

Press and hold the Menu/Setup button for about 10 seconds.

I had to trim the new turbo outlet pipe by 40mm each end, duct tape happens to be the correct width I cut down the original dump valve hose and managed to get it back on the dump valve and new intercooler pipe by swearing at it and using boiling water to heat it up On the hot side I had to flip both of the horns by taking them off their brackets and remounting them upside down Finally I had it all put together, this section took the longest to work out, its very tight in there now and I'll reroot some of it at a later date to make it easier to work on Pretty sucessfull weekend, of course of knocked all of my knuckles off but thats a small price to pay

My recommendation however, is to call your local dealer, they will be experiencing the same issues and if enough dealers go to Skoda it may get resolved.

I can confirm that both my slots are working, i now have nearly 9999 songs (56gb) in slot one and satnav card in hidden slot 2 leaving the usb slot available for android auto, I'm one very very happy Fabia owner.

@ Skoda Main Dealers it can be POA now. So pick a number any number according to the vehicle. Prices are getting to be like this in 2023 though.

Hi Xantamisch - glad you got the problem sorted. Having watched your video, I’ve started a Crowdfunding page to try to raise money to buy a bucket and sponge for you. I’m sure the tailgate would have worked fine had it not been for the half hundredweight of crud plastered on it. 😂😂

Got any sound clips of your dv+ ?

Milltek will probably be the most economical option with the added bonus of sounding better. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282305882240 https://www.millteksport.com/dealers/

And... Engine out in 5 hours. Now to collect the parts and start fitting them

U say u have 19" alloys, yet u give specs of an 18" tyre!?!? Given u have an L&K - I'd say u have 19" alloys with the standard 235/40/19 tyres. I used to have the factory 16" spare, now I've got a full size 19" as spare. 19" full size spare.....

All we need now is video from tunnel, with that fabulous five pot noise. Still can't get my head round how small it looks it against more modern machinery.

Think it’s a prerequisite to ensure we get the full, immersive experience 🙄 Glad to see it made it up your arm and out of the bowl too 👍 Yellow bowl looks the part, so it's important to test its limits. I leave servicing to other people now, but in the end started using a pump extractor, which was surprisingly effective. Gaz

Thought I would update with the conclusion. The battery was fine after all, after a lot of driving , 200 miles I would say the start & stop came back! Sick of going for battery tests at kwik fit although the guys at nuneaton were really brilliant helping me!, telling me the battery is probably fine, just keep driving it and come back for another test, Issue was not knowing how to measure how well the battery was charging or retaining charge. I bought this little gadget Which gave the understanding of what was happening with my battery after each drive and after leaving it idle over night, I could see what the problem, I stopped going to kwik fit for tests, so I highly recommend getting something like this, every morning I would just plug it in and check the level before I turned the car on. I took the dog out for a walk early one freezing morning, and saw 2 people having to jump start their cars, I thought oh god, but I tried my car and it turned over straight away, that gave me confidence, few days later I went on Holiday left the car on the drive 7 days and no issues starting it. Thanks for everyone's advice, my advice buy one of these little gadgets to check your battery they really do work.