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That’s great. the last line says it all. thanks to all who have contributed. Threads like this make me happy inside that this place exists

I did! I thought it's probably best not to keep using the urq as a ute Especially after the new 6-figure insurance valuation. And it's good to have another vehicle. It's a 1992 Ford Courier (also sold as a Mazda Bounty) with 404,000km on its 2.2-litre petrol engine and manual transmission. I've already done a few things to it - oil, filter, air filter (carby!!), rear speakers (back windows out to get the trims off!), removed 8m of dead wiring, dash apart to fix the charger port, a bit of cleaning up.

No. And it's probably a good idea to do this on a used car anyway (hopefully the dealer will have done it, but there's no harm in you doing it just in case 😉).

I suggested to them that that car needed tested at "slightly naughty speeds". Enthusiastic overtaking speeds or possibly just any motorway down south speeds.

A few from Clumber Park earlier...........

Protrack wheels ONE 18 x 8 et45 Pilot sport 5 - 225/40/18 Alloy weight is 8.7kg each. (So saving around 3kg per corner versus the oem Gemini's)

On the assumption you want to stick with the large 19 inch rims. Will try and explain what to do in informative way. 1) As already mentioned check pressures, if there are 3 quoted (see label on door frame or inside fuel cap) use the lowest, not the Eco value, or heavily loaded value. The higher pressures make tyres firmer (thus rougher riding on poor quality tarmac which seems to have become common in parts of UK). 2) Turanza is Bridgestones more touring biased tyre, these are going to be softer than anything Sporty (which Bridgestone call Potenza) or Eco biased (which reduce fuel consumption by being fairly hard, firm is effectively opposite of comfort). So you already have a softer tyre, but clearly you or your wife wants even more softness. So when you come to change the tyres avoid anything sport or Eco biased. 3) Temperature, majority of people forget about this, basic physics will tell you rubber gets hard when cold and is more soft and squidgy when warmer. Modern tyres are made of compounds, and have other materials in the mix eg silica. The more elaborate compounds can widen ideal tyre operating temperature range. Cheaper tyres can't afford to use expensive compounds so will never be as good outside ideal temperature range. Also simpler compounds won't be as good as wear resistance (there is trade off between soft enough to be grippy, but firm enough not to wear quickly) 4) Seasonality. The tyres you have are officially summer tyres, there are rumours in recent years have been formulated to do well in WLTP emissions test (which I think are done about +23c). You don't have to be a genius to know this is well above UK average (the long term temperature you get in a cave in UK is nearer +12c so in blunt terms, although the factory fit summer tyres to new cars to suit the test, they don't suit UK climate (or more strictly only really suit UK weather from about April to mid November) 5) In last few year just about every major tyre manufacturer, have introduced all season (all year) tyres, these tend to have ideal temperature of -5c to about +25c (will still work with diminishing effectiveness outside this range). So are ideal for UK climate. Modern summer tyres (since WLTP testing) often have marked fall off in wet grip below about +10c (because they become harder in cold, as above). Big problem as rain in UK is often cold (and UK rain is normally below +10c for around 8 months a year, because clouds are cold at thousands of feet up. Putting all this together, if you pick a summer tyre, will be rubbish in cold rain, and very hard in colder weather, so unsuitable if finding tyre too firm. So pick an all season tyre, and try and get one that is less summer biased as will be bit softer (and still be soft colder months). Note that most all season tyres are directional, (will have 2 for left and 2 for right, same tyre, but they are mounted opposite way on the rim, can swap them front-back, but not change sides). I would suggest swapping them front-back around 11-14k miles (I think this is actually recommended in the handbook, not that many actually read it), will even out your tyre wear. One final piece of advice, all season tyre prices tend to jump around mid-late September, when everyone remembers weather is about to get cooler, and demand booms. So order them before price rise time (even if fitting few weeks later). Stick a reminder on your calendar for early September now.

Phone them with your VIN to hand and they'll be able to check better on the screen they have. Better info than on the website.

+++ 2024.03.22 +++ -> next 2024/2025 cross compatible on: Škoda Amundsen (MIB2), Seat Navi (MIB2), VW Discover Media2 (MIB2), Audi MMI ?-?-? (MIB2), MAN Media VAN Navigation # ECE AS(A1) 2024 15.5 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-AS_2110_V18.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-AS_2110_V18.7z Files inside: 2022.10.29 Downloadable: 2023.04.25 Published: 2023.--.-- Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2110_EU_A1_202345.zip Files inside: 2022.10.29 Downloadable: 2023.11.11 Published: 2023.11.2? Seat portal: - - # ECE 1 2024 6.9 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU1_2110_V18.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU1_2110_V18.7z Files inside: 2022.10.29 Downloadable: 2023.04.25 Published: 2023.--.-- Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2110_EU1_202345.zip Files inside: 2022.10.29 Downloadable: 2023.11.11 Published: 2023.11.2? Seat portal: - - # ECE 2 2024 6.6 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU2_2110_V18.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU2_2110_V18.7z Files inside: 2022.10.29 Downloadable: 2023.04.25 Published: 2023.--.-- Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2110_EU2_202345.zip Seat portal: - - # ECE 3 2024 5.4 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU3_2110_V18.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU3_2110_V18.7z Files inside: 2022.10.29 Downloadable: 2023.04.25 Published: 2023.--.-- Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2110_EU3_202345.zip # ECE 4 2024 8.6 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL1_2110_V18.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL1_2110_V18.7z Files inside: 2022.10.29 Downloadable: 2023.04.25 Published: 2023.--.-- Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2110_EU_DL1_202345.zip # ECE 5 2024 8.7 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL2_2110_V18.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL2_2110_V18.7z Files inside: 2022.10.29 Downloadable: 2023.04.25 Published: 2023.--.-- Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2110_EU_DL2_202345.zip # ECE 6 2024 8.1 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL3_2110_V18.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL3_2110_V18.7z Files inside: 2022.10.29 Downloadable: 2023.04.25 Published: 2023.--.-- Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2110_EU_DL3_202345.zip # ECE 7 2024 7.0 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL4_2110_V18.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_EU-DL4_2110_V18.7z Files inside: 2022.10.29 Downloadable: 2023.04.25 Published: 2023.--.-- Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2110_EU_DL4_202345.zip # ROW 1 2024 7.4 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM1_2110_V18.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM1_2110_V18.7z Files inside: 2022.10.29 Downloadable: 2023.04.25 Published: 2023.--.-- Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2110_MRM1_202345.zip # ROW 2 2024 4.6 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM2_2110_V18.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM2_2110_V18.7z Files inside: 2022.10.29 Downloadable: 2023.04.25 Published: 2023.--.-- Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2110_MRM2_202345.zip # ROW 3 2024 5.5 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM3_2110_V18.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM3_2110_V18.7z Files inside: 2022.10.29 Downloadable: 2023.04.25 Published: 2023.--.-- Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2110_MRM3_202345.zip # MRM DL1 2024 6.1 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM-DL1_2110_V18.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM-DL1_2110_V18.7z Files inside: 2022.10.29 Downloadable: 2023.04.25 Published: 2023.--.-- Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2110_MRM_DL1_202345.zip # MRM DL2 2024 1.4 Gb VW portal: https://vw-maps-cdn.lighthouselabs.eu/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM-DL2_2110_V18.7z VW portal: https://navigation-maps.volkswagen.com/vw-maps/DiscoverMedia2_MRM-DL2_2110_V18.7z Files inside: 2022.10.29 Downloadable: 2023.04.25 Published: 2023.--.-- Škoda portal: https://infotainment-cdn.skoda-auto.com/base/maps/STD2_2110_MRM_DL2_202345.zip ======= coverage ======= # ECE AS(A1) Albania, Andorra, Austria, Belarus, Belgium, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Croatia, Czech Republic, Cyprus, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Faroe Islands, Germany, Gibraltar, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Ireland, Italy, Kosovo, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Macedonia, Malta, Moldova, Monaco, Montenegro, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, San Marino, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Ukraine, United Kingdom, Vatican City State # ECE 1 Andorra, Belgium, Faroe Islands, France, Gibraltar, Iceland, Ireland, Ireland, Luxembourg, Monaco, Netherlands, Portugal, Spain, United Kingdom # ECE 2 Albania, Belarus, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Greece, Kazakhstan, Kosovo, Latvia, Lithuania, Macedonia, Moldova, Montenegro, Norway, Romania, Russian Federation, Serbia, Sweden, Ukraine # ECE 3 Austria, Croatia, Czech Republic, Germany, Hungary, Italy, Liechtenstein, Malta, Poland, San Marino, Slovakia, Slovenia, Switzerland, Vatican City State # ECE 4 Andorra, Austria, Belgium, Croatia, Czech Republic, France, Germany, Hungary, Italy, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, Netherlands, Poland, San Marino, Slovakia, Slovenia, Switzerland, Vatican City State # ECE 5 Andorra, Austria, Belgium, Croatia, Czech Republic, Faroe Islands (land-use only), France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, Netherlands, Poland, San Marino, Slovakia, Slovenia, Switzerland, United Kingdom (incl. Isle of Man), Vatican City State # ECE 6 Andorra, Belgium, Denmark, Faroe Islands (land-use only), Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Ireland, Luxembourg, Monaco, Netherlands, Norway, Sweden, United Kingdom (incl. Isle of Man) # ECE 7 Albania, Austria, Belarus, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Estonia, Greece, Hungary, Italy, Kosovo, Latvia, Lithuania, Liechtenstein, Macedonia, F.Y.R.O., Malta, Moldova, Montenegro, Poland, Romania, San Marino, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Switzerland, Turkey, Ukraine, Vatican City State # ROW 1 Israel, Argentina, Brazil, Fr. Guyana *, Guadeloupe *, Martinique *, Mexico, Turkey * # ROW 2 India *, Chile * # ROW 3 Australia, New Zealand, Botswana *, Lesotho *, Mozambique *, Namibia *, South Africa, Swaziland *; Reunion *, Brunei, Indonesia *, Malaysia *, Philippines *, Singapore, Thailand, Egypt *, Algeria *, Bahrain *, Jordan *, Qatar *, Kuwait, Morocco, Oman *, Saudi Arbien *, Tunisia, United Arab Emirates * # MRM DL1 Argentina, Brazil, Mexico, French Guiana, Guadeloupe, Martinique # MRM DL2 Israel, Turkey ======= instruction ======= Don't ask me details, i have Columbus Mib2H. all what i know, files must be extracted to original(Škoda's) SD Card some questions have been already answered in previous treads: -> 2023/24 -> 2023 -> 2022/23 -> 2022 -> 2021 -> 2020 -> 2018/2019

https://youtu.be/wBbF8V0BOKg

Hi, and thanks to Langers2k, the information regarding voice amplification was spot on. Still don't know how I managed to turn it up though 'cos it wasn't doing that when I picked it up. Now I can sing and not upset people outside the car!! Thanks again

Hello Skoda family, I just recently upgraded my daily driver to a Skoda Octavia 3 1.4TSI 103kw, with only heated seats and cruise control from an old 1998 Audi A6. I love the racer blue color but I feel like I will need to put in quite some effort retrofitting to bring it to the level of the Audi in terms of "comfort". Have read the forum for a few hours now to figure out what I can do and where to start, will probably make a thread on my car and update it every few months. First upgrade will probably be to tint the back windows! All the best, Lauri

From another source. VW SKODA TRW Wheel Brake Cylinder BWD268

Hi new here, had various cars over the years, and now driving an Octavia tdi estate (2018 VRs). Work as an MOT tester at a test only station, so if I can help out with any queries feel free to ask

They have already...

@varooomor @ApertureSmight be around and be able to give some advice on the DPF and that issue. Plenty good mechanics around Glasgow.

Problem solved. I replaced the (46) comfort module. The renkte key worked. I even coded with vcds. Only the red LED in the driver's door does not flash. I may have forgotten to plug it in.

Thanks for the replies. I managed to get both bolts out by removing the complete hub assembly from both sides - lower ball joint, axle nut and steering linkage - then for the complete bolt I used my extra large hammer, and together with a slight backwards/forwards motion and an extension handle on the head of the bolt managed to work it loose. The bolt with the head sheared off I did as suggested and but off the bits of the bolt visible outside (and in the gap) of the hub, then used a drift and the extra large sledge hammer and eventually got both halves of the bolt to drive out. What a pain! Currently replacing the link arms on both sides - that's another pig of a job!

Yep that's the one. Think I'll give that one a miss

Since you have a 2015 Octavia that would be the Octavia 3 forum here

I wouldn't say like new, given that they're a third way through their lifetime (at least). Bear in mind that Skoda recommends changing them every four years, and the previous owners ran up mileage with short trips over the past 7 years. As I said, I'm having trouble with rough idling when the engine is hot, and plugs are one of the known culprits. If they're coming out for inspection, I may as well fit new ones — with the correct heat rating and correctly gapped; for all I know the previous owner/garage had got it wrong.

Have a look at the PDF file I attached a few posts up the page, it does very clearly show that the belt is 120,000 km, the engine in the Octavia is the same as the Superb I think. Yes, the water pump is also supposed to have been replaced at the same time.

My hunch is the accelerator pedal. Not sure if it same on that model, but there is a potentiometer (an electrical device) that pressing the pedal moves. Sounds to me like it has short circuited and instead of getting a build up as pedal is pressed, going to full power whatever the pedal position. Might also be pedal and electrical linkage is broken, so as pedal comes up not reducing power.

Your best bet @Currymunster is to register with erWin Skoda an account, and download the workshop manuals for the car. You need 1hr access and your VIN to hand to get all the information for 7 Euros (£7.50 last time I paid) This will give you the maintenance schedule, wiring diagrams and the engine manual for the belt change (listing tool codes too)

Sorry I've no idea of the gap you need but it used to be with NGK plugs that the end number was the preset gap, I assume but don't know that this is still the case, if so then 11 would be 1.1 mm gap. All databases have errors and omissions and I've found this includes Haynes publications sometimes. ETA: I always check the gap in case the plug has ben dropped or swapped and always buy from a reliable source to avoid cheap fakes.

Sorry, never knew anyone replied! Thank you both - I’ve tightened everything I can get to.. and she seems to be driving ok so I guess I’ll just take it as “character” until it gives me any other symptoms. 🤪 (did get some breakdown cover though.. 😂)

Sound sensible... I've said before EV manufacturers should be looking at doing this sort of thing instead of going for huge power.

funnily enough I have booked James from that video to do my 2 year service. Saving myself over 50%

Skoda recommends cambelt change every 210000 km without time limit TDI engines on Mk3 I had this confirmed by the workshop manager of my local dealer.

Even better if you select Sport mode if anticipating an overtake.

To me, It is pretty damning that both suggest the clutch pack. They could inspect the dmf (rather than replace) but they are probably taking the attitude of while you're in there, change that consumable as well. Nb. I would also expect they inspect the clutch pack once dissassembled before blindly replacing (if it turned out to be in good condition they would have to think before replacing and putting transmission back in car). But by that stage a significant portion of the estimated cost is consumed by removing the transmission and partially disassembling transmission. You could ask them to inspect the dmf once opened up and decide then but seeing a premature clutch pack failure, they are probably suggesting belt and braces. The difference in price without dmf will not be huge in the overall cost as the bulk of the job will be in removing the transmission and replacing the clutch packs and reassembly. If the transmission is not throwing any codes the help indicate the underlying fault, then it's really down to experience and getting the transmission out and clutch pack out for inspecting. Given both have driven and said the same thing it seems there is not much of an alternative line to follow. A third opinion, another dsg specialist? Would that make you feel any more confident? You've got vcds, you could run dsg basic settings and adaptions, there is quite a few resets for yhe dq250. Im not sure what is listed for the dq200 once connected. but if the experts are right, it probably won't help.

Good to know you got it sorted, I imagine the majority of balancing machines in garages arent regularly relcalibrated after installation...some manufacturers say they should be done every three months and I just cant see this happening a lot of the time. I like to think that a garage that opts to install a much more expensive piece of kit than necessary, like the garage you have just been to will also then choose to maintain their kit correctly. As you said its probably not worth going to the cost of a road force balance on tyres that have already covered 60k km if a normal rebalance does the trick but it is something I like to do on new tyres myself.

Power steering pump rebuild kit arrived from Pelican Parts, hopefully I got the correct one. Pump is out, had to break out the big bar, the banjo bolts were done up to FT. I’m going to take the pump to a specialist after reading how it’s done At least I now have my new sensible daily driver to use.

Welcome, and good luck in the business venture. Can't beat a SuperB for the miles you'll be covering. Unless it's an Octavia....or Scala!!

VW is dithering on its battery factory locations as it looks to maximise any subsidies going whilst the Chinese steam ahead on multi front is Lithium Phosphate, Sodium ion, different battery forms such s blade packs and time waits for no man or auto manufacturer. VWs, and other European based manufacturers seem slow to react just what a comprehensive threat the Chinese, and TESLA, are threatening to their existence. The EU can only do so much in terms of Ad Valorem tariffs and the existing 10% is not impacting MG/SAIC it appears, the EU maybe forced to introduce Anti-Dumping levies to help Nissan-Renault, Stellantis, VW Group etc stand any chance of surviving. BYD are setting up plants in India and Thailand so may be able to benefit from lower rates of import duties from those places rather than directly from The People's Republic of China. Dolphin price in China is half of what is being quoted as the estimated launch price in the UK...... https://carnewschina.com/2022/12/29/new-2023-byd-dolphin-launched-in-china-price-starts-at-16700-usd/ New 2023 BYD Dolphin Launched In China, Price Starts At 16,700 USD This is the new 2023 BYD Dolphin, a compact electric hatchback aimed at young tech-minded folks. Three models were launched with a price range of 116,800 – 136,800 RMB (16,700 – 19,600 USD). The Dolphin is based on BYD’s e-platform 3.0, powered by the BYD LFP Blade batteries. Even cheaper than that with some discount codes currently, so when converting USD to GBP we acre actually talking about less than £14K !!!!

I have a data plug and Skoda connect it’s free. That gives me trip info etc and detects refuelling. And I use car play with my iPhone for music and maps

No not 'like' that, exactly that nice 1 pal cheers will double check measurements n get it ordered thanks. 👍🏾

@domhnallAre Skoda Dealership selling Pollen filter at the parts department for £15? Are they doing a brake fluid change @ the £299 service? With special olive oil anointed someplace & perfumed with jasmine, rose, seseme, cinnamon and orange blossom in a far flung country, or maybe that is just the special windscreen wash for the fan nozzles that comes from the tears of angels.

So, im now the happy owner of a mk3 254 challenge 😁 First impressions are, its a cracking car. Love the heated seats!! Only used to the seat pad being heated in my old car. Also, wasn't aware the rear seats were heated too! Kids will love that! Comfort mode still feels firmish but manageable. Sports is harsh, but feels fantastic throwing it around a B road. Think the infotainment might take some getting used to! I aint very technically minded! Small niggles... n/s wing mirror doesn't seem to go back after dropping when in reverse, unless I put the control knob back to centre? Aint been able to connect via android connect thingy, tho only had a brief play. And, still absolutely hate the gloss black spoiler! Other than that, it puts a huge smile on my face after driving family busses for the last 10 or so years!

Well, a control unit about the size of two normal relays, with pins that fit in those adjacent relay sockets.

Although i dont have my 70 plate new shape VRS ( because it was a F up from the start) I went for the top UHP from Hankook. Really recommend them. Youll see them on top Audi's and E trons

1950 Studebaker Champion pizza delivery car in Lower Manhattan, NYC.

Do look into any effect a new towbar could have on your reversing sensors. Good luck! 👍

Here is mine

Sympol, I had exactly the same problem a few years ago with my own Felicia and I know the pain! Before you try J.R.'s kind suggestions, here's what worked for me: - despite soaking with penetrating lubricant, I had sheared off the bolt heads in my heavy efforts to get the bolts rotating. - like yourself, I was very reluctant to face a drilling-out job so I applied more lubricant, cursing and having a think about the problem, and the next day as a last resort I tried using the existing nuts [ with suitable washer spacing ] to extract the now-headless bolts. - IT WORKED ! ... beautifully, saving me immense prospective hassle. One other thing - if you have applied serious heat to rusty stuff without success, for Heaven's sake don't let the 'cooked' rust get any exposure to water. In my experience, the chemistry which happens if it does makes things completely unshiftable.

Glad I could help

2018 with 37055 miles, cost £780 with everything (water pump / thermostat / union / seal /screw and coolant).

on 2016. 2.0 TSI 220ps were €650 after 108266 kms / 72 months

If youve had most of it apart just do a spanner check on it all again and make sure nothing obvious has been missed or is adrift Are all mounts for the wiring loom in place ? - Anything catching or rubbing ? Are all the belts at the correct tension ? Was the timing belt changed? Alternator, waterpump bearings ? Alternator pulley freewheel ? When exactly is the noise most prevalent - What has changed to make the noise better or worse This isnt easy for us to pin down without the car itself so you have to just go in with an open mind, look at the evidence, take nothing as a given, try and narrow the problem to an area and work down from that. Let us know how you get on as it will help narrow it down !!👍

Wasn't a Maxton but Jay replaced the rear splitter on his VRS, thread below. page 2. Talks about how easy/difficult it was to do.