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Not bad for 14 years old.

Topped the Soft 99 up with Poorboys World White Diamond and after that EX-P Sealant

Had a play with my phone's Macro mode

Same with Audi, VW, Honda and others.

Thing is it’ll be affecting units that are much newer than this and will still be for sale on Skoda forecourts. Wonder where they stand if they don’t point it out to potential buyers?

In the angle of your photo the reservoir looks empty wot ain't not good. VW fart about with what coolant they want at any particular time but may be on G12 Evo for 2020 and/or at the moment (unless they've changed their minds again). IF the reservoir is below minimum or empty on a 2020/1 car, or any year, that's not good you need to find out why and get it sorted. Sorry you've lost me with local dealer is 10 miles away and not local, if required I'd do a 20-mile round trip to get that sorted before it progresses to anything worse.

I'd be swapping those out for 4 of the same of pretty much anything.

Look OK, but worth doing. Thanks. AG Falco

Z speed rating isn't used much nowadays, as it's been largely replaced with W and Y speed ratings. Z means over 240km/h (150mph) W means up to 270km/h (168mph) Y means up to 300km/h (186mph) Over-specifying tyres, such as fitting a higher speed rating than you need, and/or XL (eXtra Load) if you only need SL (Standard Load), can make the ride harder. I doubt you need more than an H speed rating (up to 130mph) or more than a 91 (615kg) SL tyre for an Octavia MK3 110HP. Some good 205/55R16 91H all-season tyres with soft and flexible sidewalls should help the ride comfort, such as Vredestein Quatrac. Other good brands of all-season tyres include Bridgestone, Continental, Goodyear, Hankook, Michelin, Vredestein, etc. See tyrereviews for the latest reviews. However, Vredestein Quatrac 6 aren't available in sizes above 16" except for 225/45R17 and 225/50R17. Therefore, most tyre reviews above 16" don't include the excellent Vredestein Quatrac 6. Vredestein Quatrac 6 205/55R16 91H https://www.camskill.co.uk/m139b0s8003p202103/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac_6_205_55_R16_91H_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB

I wouldnt jump trains which is 3* to 4* probably end in tears. People mod the train up. Changing software gives you an SVM, the confirmation code in the 5F unit you put through https://mib-helper.com/im-so-xory/ Then puthing the return code into confirmation code least in Obdeleven Pro. Anyhow it won't help since it's not old firmware that's the issue.

I've got an update few days ago and since than, no restart issues...hope they have finally solved the problem

I've got a 2014 1.4tsi estate, owned from new, on a fairly low 95k km with original suspension parts and 17 inch wheels. OEM tyres were Dunlop Sportsmaxx, pretty good and consistent through their 40k km life. Replaced with Michelin Premacy which lasted near 50k km and for the last 10k km the ride felt as though it was deteriorating, so much so I thought a suspension component might be at issue. A few weeks ago I fitted Continental tyres and the car's formerly excellent ride (imo) was restored. Long story short, is that the tyres can make a substantial difference. I run my tyres at 37psi, which is a bit higher than recommended, for various reasons: safer emergency braking as the higher pressure allows the front tyres to resist load deformation. don't have to worry about raising the pressures if you offer some larger friends a lift. a little better fuel economy I like the car's ride and handling characteristics at that pressure. A very remote possibility for your experiencing such a poor ride is that the transport blocks were not removed on the, when new, pre-delivery inspection. Most incidents of transport blocks in place that have been posted on Briskoda have obviously been with brand new cars, since the ride is reportedly near intolerable, but there has been at least one post concerning a second hand car. To check, you jack up the front as if to change the front tyre so that the suspension droops, if that reveals some brightly coloured blocks on the suspension, then they need to be removed. Check both sides at the front, they would not have been fitted to the rear suspension. As I say, it is extremely unlikely to have been undiscovered for so long, but it costs nothing to check other than a bit of time and effort.

Have this matrix system on a 2022 Kodiaq in the UK and really, really like it. From my experience I can see why Psicho would have a problem with the road conditions and layouts described, however in the UK I'd lay dowbn the money for matrix again tomorrow without a second thought.

Hi, when you do as AG suggests, does the throttle hiccup occur or is the throttle response smooth?

Hi Steve, As you are aware, Skoda's three year warranty includes Skoda Assist - and very good it is too. Also be aware that if you buy an extended (4 or 5 year) warranty, Skoda Assist is not included during years 4 & 5. Enjoy your new Fabia 👍

Mpg is affected by a lot more than just the engine, driving style can play a massive part too Run us through what a weeks worth of driving looks like for you.

Hiding from the sun today.

Hello all, Just before lockdown, I picked purchased a 2016 Superb L&K 280 from Arnold Clark. It's a much needed size upgrade on our 2009 Fiesta (part exchanged) and is our new family barge - mostly for short trips but occasionally for longer ones (hence why it's not a diesel). The car had covered 40,000 miles and had a very patchy service history. But it did have the spec I wanted plus it was cheap enough to bring it (just) into budget. Plus as my wife's car / the family car it's good if it's had some good use already - so I'm not too precious about it. My plan for the car is to tidy it up a little and to give it some much needed TLC - it's only ever been serviced twice as far as I can see... Collection day: My wife's bear immediately placed (don't ask): Child seats installed (hence the need for a big car!): Dash cam installed (and hard wired into fuse box): Engine bay (with plastic cover temporarily removed): EA888 engine code: Evidence of patchy service history (as well as a few other stickers) removed from drivers door frame: Dodgy wiring for an old dash-cam on the drivers side removed (yes that is a cigarette lighter! ) : MIB 2 unit removed (to be sent off for re-programming as MIB 2.5): New Columbus 9.2" screen during testing (hasn't arrived yet - thanks to pab567 ) The next job is to replace the oil on the Haldex pump and clean the filter myself (fairly sure that it's never been done) and to replace the DSG gearbox oil (again, I'm fairly sure this hasn't been done but I may get a garage to do it once lockdown has lifted). I sourced the boot liner second-hand for circa £5 on eBay, which I'm delighted with as it's like new: Interior shot: The steering wheel has a large imprint of where the steering wheel controls were, but if you can overlook that, it does mean that the rest of the wheel is like new (as it's barely been used). I've also disabled KESSY using VCDS, which is much better for peace of mind and isn't too annoying for daily use. More to come - thanks for looking. Chris

Hi. I am new Superb3 MY2016 owner. I hope i will find a good knowledge and some tweaks for my car. My previous cars from VAG: Audi A4 B6 MY2004 - from 2016 - ... VW Polo 9N1 MY2003 - from 2015 - ... VW Golf 3 MY1994 VW Bora MY2001 Best Regards Mateusz

If Trafficmaster have stopped transmitting on the frequency that VAG units pick it up from no firmware fix is going to sort it, can you see VAG paying to sort a problem with units up to 13 years old?

So, I been driving cars for 58 years and this is the first one I have had to do it to beat a stall. I have mastered in that time releasing the clutch slowly on tick over. I have no problem doing that, only it is slow and when your taking off from traffic lights, or other reason why stopped, it can annoy drivers behind and they are so impatient these days. I can move off with a blip, I can move off by slowly releasing clutch on tick over. What I want to do is move off with no blipping, no slow release of clutch, no annoying other drivers. Service is a week tomorrow so I will see if new plugs and new air filter improves matters.

Yeah I’m not convinced of the tyres on the car tbh. The front two are autogreen sportchasers but one of them has 205/55Z/R16 on them. Not sure what the Z means and the back two tyres are 1 x Goodyear and 1 x triangle sportex? they’ve all got about 4mm on them. Thinking of just replacing all 4 for some decent tyres.

A compressible foam seal to close any gap is the usual solution. Just grab one off almost any scrapyard car, it will either be attached to the bonnet or the front edge of the 'water box' as VW group usually call the scuttle area. Cut and glue to correct size and shape, and space off with random other material to get the degree of compression just right to seal. It's not the odourous gases you should worry about, it's carbon monoxide which will kill you without any bad smell to let you know it's there.

The slots are supposed to be there, the accept expansion and prevent cracking.

Just top it up with tap water then, doesn't look very low. Is it even below min?

When I do as suggested the take up is smooth.

Sorry I don't think I have one that matches that SW Train.

Checking pressure middle of the afternoon when the car has been exposed to the sun will make a difference too. The tyres facing the sun will be artificially high. Best time to check is any time that the car has been in a steady state. Be that in shade, overnight or driving for a while. Just need the tyres to be all the same.

@varoooms reference on ' touching glass' is for the lamp itself - the oil left by your fingerprints will etch the glass, which can result in the lamp shattering - this may have been the cause of the original failure. Cotton gloves or a clean cloth are essential when handling most lamps (even QH types)

Tools r minimal - u just need a torx screw, and it's the same size for the wheel arch liner, bumper and under tray screws. The headlights use torx screws as well, but r slightly bigger. U won't break anything if done properly. I've removed my bumper about 3-4 times now, and haven't snapped or broken anything. The tricky part is making sure not to hit or bump the ACC radar sensor whilst removing or putting the bumper back. It looks like this...... Good luck

Going by the new car configurator the 1.0l only comes as manual, I don't know though, if that's always been the case.

Mine's a FWD so it'll be slightly better consumption and I'm currently showing 56 mpg after a 1,600 mile journey, but pottering around my hometown of Brecon in winter when the engine doesn't get warm it'll be about 20 mpg, so as ApertureS says more information is needed.

@Fzsakib Welcome. Was the Passat a TDI? ? What was done at a Major Service? How much did that cost? Was it more than an OIl & Filter, pollen filter, air filter & look see? Was it the Cam Belt, the Haldex, the brakes serviced, the fuel filter replaced. Help people here with their guesswork. An Avarage of 22 mpg must mean you are sometimes getting only 10-15 mpg. ? Is it 220 miles you could go if you were using 45 litres of diesel doing a brim to brim? Are you aware of the cars doing lots of regens? ? How many miles has the car done. When you have brimmed it to know how many miles you get per litre (Or Imperial gallon) how far are you driving it from each cold start?

This thread isn't for the latest maps so you need the 330 release see below if you haven't found it but that isn't your technical issue. The instructions I was talking about are here, my 11th November post, the VW how to PDF. The gold standard: So your issue will be a presentation issue only of not presenting the update as expected (You have a mib2 high, tick, a Skoda so not a navigation FeC issue, tick, using Windows so not a Mac issue tick). That leaves not unzipped or at the wrong directory level down in how it's presented etc (see PDF in thd link). Also good to pull other cards out so it only sees the media. You are suppose to use 7zip for the unzip process. Others can give a problem. Basically the unit reads the files and checks the integrity of the files from the signatures and checksum. If they don't pass it won't see the update. Not in the correct level is another - see the PDF, not unzipped correctly, or not using a valid file system, Fat32 for the 32gb card, exFat for above cards, or NTFS for USB and it wont work. Those are the outstanding issues to check. Suppose to be in Fat32, 32gb SD card but the maps have outgrown some cards, you use say 64gb in exFat if that's the case or USB in NTFS (That isn't in the instructions above). I mention that if after using the latest you find they wont fit on the card. I did use to say only stick to the 32GB card but since the maps have expanded above what some 32GB cards can handle now, you can get issues if you don't get the file system right for exFat on big SD cards or NTFS for USB. So that was the other issue people hit. The latest maps are here: Release 330. Your 166 you see on the screen will become 330 when successful. They are the June 2023 release found early by MartiniB in April. I think poster drifted threads at this point so you might be using the latest or may be not. The Mod John needs to pin that thread above and un-pin this one so people find the latest at the top else people grab the wrong files.

Yes I can do that no problem, handy when in a long line of traffic ie holiday traffic hold ups. It’s a bit slow for regular stop starts. Its now only 8 days to its service, see what that brings.

This is what mine looks like hitched up and loaded for a trip. It's sitting higher than yours is with nothing loaded.

I was going to suggest that but thought that both were probably loaded close to the limit, now we have the numbers there is some room for adjustments and that is the obvious one. I am usually loading a flat load space with no rear seats so this is of no use to Swirly with the family but I try to put all the heavy items in the rear footwells and also the front passenger footwells, anything heavy as far forward as I can get within the limits of practicality, at the rear behind and over the axle is generally just my small backpack with clothes, the coolbox and coolbag etc. Another thing to check when the rear suspension is sagging like that is that when you couple the trailer look at the front suspension and not the rear, you may well notice that the front of the car actually lifts as the noseweight creates a turning moment about the rear axle, this I don't need to mention is very undesirable. All these things can happen yet the weights remain within the specified limits showing that a common sense approach is needed. With the stiffer rear springs on the Yeti and my penchant for a higher than normal noseweight the lifting of the front of the vehicle is very noticable meaning I have to redistribute the trailer load.

MOT done 2 weeks ago. Just an advisory on the front lower suspension arm rear bushes beginning to be worn. No movement in the arm so I will just monitor for now. Eighth Service done today at 72 K miles. A little less milage in the last year than previous years. This included oil and oil filter, air filter, cabin filter and spark plugs. 4 Litres of oil with no top up required between services except before the first service. As usual for me I changed the air filter as you have to take the air filter housing off to do the spark plugs. Battery still good for 7 years old, coolant good and brake fluid good, all tested. Brakes now more than half worn, will need to change them after about 100 K miles from new. Tracking checked but is OK. Tyres wearing well, I now have the same make tread pattern all round. Proving to be a good choice with better wet grip than previous tyres I have had. 5.5 mm on the fronts and 7 mm on the rears. Service and Inspection warning reset. Updated service record on Erwin. Scanned for faults none showing. Nothing else noted. Car still good. Thanks. AG Falco

I collected my Octavia Mk4 IV SEL estate / combi today from the dealer. Ordered 22nd Feb 22 original delivery estimate August 22. I started complaining to Skoda uk December 22 about lack of delivery information. Received the £100 sorry it’s late voucher from Skoda uk and fee life shine from the dealer for the delay. The dealership had a number of IVs so batches are starting to arrive. All those waiting I hope you get your cars soon. Regards BRS

@stevecrvn Start of a pattern. Maybe as these engines get older / do more miles. Only 2 members here so far unless others have had their car with the same and the garages made a song and dance and through parts at them. ? Has your car with Full Service History got new plugs in it since it left the factory?

Going for OEM+. I'll let you know how it goes next week.

Turbo pipe off. Not turbo blown. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/513661-turbo-blown

They will not employ actual detailers to prep a 'Used or even new car' & apply the product that cost them very little. It is their valeters / cleaners or contractor. Get any money back that you paid them for this 'special product' that you got as part of the deal but you actually paid for as they have the 'cost' on their costs before sale when paying tax on profits. I used to prep cars for sales using the products that cost under £30 and were under an hours labour and were showing as £300 plus.

Getting some sun on the Long Mynd

A little bit more power 😃

Replacing the infotainment screen (MIB2 -> 2.5) was the best modification to my car. It makes a huge difference! I didn't bother with the digital drivers display due to the cost and complexity, but I'm very impressed that you did.

Pick mine up 03 March, can't wait.

The goodies

That is s nice series of mods so far. Very cool. Where did you source the ambient door and dashboard lighting from?