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Notes. After it has finished updating the system, give it a couple of minutes to ensure that all is well and like it shows on video press resume an wait for about 90s or so and the system will restart just, like in the video. DO NOT START THE CAR UNTIL THE SYSTEM HAS RESTARTED After the update the built-in manual is unlikely to be available for about 48hrs, it does come back! You will more than likely receive another OTA update, it's OK to accept it. Ultimately if you are at all worried about doing it, take it to a VW Independent or Skoda dealer and ask them to do it for you Once it has been updated, there should be no more random restarts or crashes on the infotainment system, the pop pop issue should be gone too.. You may have an issue with Android Auto if you have a VPN installed on your mobile phone or tablet. This is resolved by turning off the VPN and restarting Android Auto.

It is fixed now ! I swapped the regulators and now it charges at approx. 13.5 volts ! I was very lucky the junk yard alternator's regulator was not faulty, and the brushes were not worn down (one was shorter than the other - and both were shorter than my original ones, as my Felicia was only gone 90,000 km in 27 years). So now I have spare brushes and other alternator parts if needed... It feels good to have saved a lot of money not going to a professional repair shop / garage, and fixing it in 10 mins (excluding research and your help!) 🙂 Thanks again, and bye for now...

It's a rip off, it is not like they will sanitise filter packs to prevent legionaries because not in a location where doors and windows don't open. You won't gain anything by having it done compared to yourself turning temperature to max for a minute, and min for a minute to exercise system. Unless they confirm you will get a receipt with a before and after refrigerant concentration proving it's been hooked up and tested then decline. A cursory AC 'service' is about as useful as replacing the air in your tyres with fresh air. Waste of your money, and easy money for them as can't check it was done.

So, after a lot of searching, and a couple of bum-clenching clicks ordering from places I'd never heard of, I have everything I need... Except a day off without rain to do the work! AutoDoc have been great - not the quickest but prices (on a Monday with the 40% discount) are insane and easily better than anywhere else. Everything I've ordered, has been delivered. No substitutions, no mistakes. The only hiccup is that they mark orders as picked up by the courier several days before the courier actually collects them. The ARB was from a site called MLPerformance, another one I'd never heard of but it was 15% cheaper than anywhere else, and when I got the dispatch notifications, it actually came from Euro Car Parts. Don't know if anyone else has noticed this, but in the leaflet with the ARB, it specifically says their TUV approval only counts if you fit front and back. Strange when it's such a common job. Anyway, next thread when it's all done with before & after pics!

Week 40 is 2-8 October I would allow 1-2 weeks at dock, week for ship, week to dealers, week for PDI and preparation. Roughly 5 weeks after build So realistically with you mid November. But might vary by week or two either way.

Had car updated to 1941 by dealership just over a week ago. No issues until right now. Currently driving in France from UK and cruising along the motorway and then...... Loud POP! POP! from the speakers and followed by 'Emergency Call Activated' on dashboard screen. FFS. So bloody fed up with this car.

There seems to be an increase in amount anti-EV coverage, which is driving more this kind of videos https://transportandenergy.com/2023/07/12/exclusive-leading-industry-figures-hit-back-at-anti-ev-stories-in-national-media/ "Exclusive: Leading industry figures hit back at anti-EV stories in national media"

Or they turn it on and if it’s chilly, it’s good to go and you’re down £50. (or whatever the ludicrous amount 30mins of main dealer labour is these days).

Right. All you do is create a temporary folder on your PC or Tablet for example MIB3 UG. Then find the zip file and then right click on it or press and hold on it, so the menu appears and it should offer you the opportunity to Extract here or elsewhere, tell it to extract the files to MIB3 UG folder and let it get on with it. When it has finished, format a usb memory stick so it's completely empty, then go to the folder MIB3 UG open it and copy the 2 folders and other file directly onto the memory stick. When it has finished copying the files to the memory stick it should look something like this... THERE MUST BE NO OTHER FILES THAN THIS. Once your memory stick looks like this, remove it and take it to the car. Insert it into a USB port, press and hold the menu button for about 10 seconds and the update menu will appear. At this point it's vital that you have a full or very well charged car battery or a battery charger attached so that the car doesn't shutdown halfway through the process. Ignition needs to be ON, the Engine needs to be OFF (NOT RUNNING)! DO NOT START IT DURING THE PROCESS. Here's a video that shows you what to do, albeit in German, you'll get the English version! If you watch it carefully you'll get the gist of what to do. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES MUST THE PROCESS BE STOPPED ONCE IT HAS STARTED OTHERWISE YOU'LL MORE THAN LIKELY NEED A NEW INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM.

Thanks again for your help !! BTW, I have just found this video, that I think is the best I have found yet about troubleshooting the charging, when you know the basic things (mechanical and connections) are ok... :

Many in the UK lost 'Motor Cycle' rights having passed their test when the DVLA Swansea had a fire a couple of decades back, and HGV licences were coc-cked up. My Mum liked to remind my Dad that he had not ever passed a driving test, unlike her. Wartime it was not necessary. They were in prescribed work and my Dads family were Carters & Hauliers and they all drove lorries, busses etc. Found my mums licence just this week. (Change of address from Banffshire to Angus.)

Sorry, I only have Kodiaq experience. I’m on my third one now and never had a problem in over 6 years. Around 60K miles.

Hello, During calibration of ACC the mechanic has "lost" the sensor. He has informed it had to be removed to be calibrated and he has misplaced it Can someone confirm there is no requirement to remove ACC during calibration before I take this further Thanks

So I had my car updated on the 5th of July. Immediately after update I had an OTA for user manual which went through okay and updated successfully. Only had an issue on the day of the update when infotainment started up with black screen twice and had to do a manual reboot. I do contribute this to car not having a deep sleep cylce (to purge the system) for now as all systems work flawlessly since then.

Unfortunately you already have the latest SW 😞

It worked, thanks. When I tried yesterday I just held switch up without first releasing, that did not solve.

Main dealer or local friendly mechanic? This only matters as to how hard you need to go at them. Doesn't really matter if it needed to be removed or not, the fact is it was removed and is now missing and they have a duty to either find it or buy you a new one.

I'm forgetting who I've moaned to lol

Yes it was mate, exactly the same as you, we had this conversation a few weeks back😂

Yeah, but it’s good to have those “real” ones, where the person undertaking the work can show the “real” time it takes, the pitfalls when removing the OE kit, installing the new and how to avoid loosing a thumb along the way etc.

Everyone requesting SW pls check your PMs. if you don;t find a link plks contact me on PM.

This is normal... Downgarding will NOT help, unit must be patched again.

The upgrade will have likely removed whatever component protection patch was installed. Downgrading is unlikely to help... You need to reapply a component protection patch along with any FEC unlocks etc required Might be worth speaking to whoever you got the headunit from, I'm not sure if it can be done remotely by @pab567 or not.

@OlieeMo There is a file for MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0369T if you go through folders: MQB_solution -> MST2 - TechniSat Preh -> Firmware -> SKODA_ZR -> EU -> MST2_EU_SK_ZR_P0369T

Drum brakes are black magic Removed all tension from handbrake cable, seated shoes back in place, drum fits over shoes now! Started raining so assembly postponed. Thanks @Breezy_Pete 👑

@Andrei1496 yes, I have already put everything in order from the backup, and the ambient RGB interior lighting works for me as well.

Sent you a PM.

And on the basis that my system was making odd hissing sounds, I got a airco “specialist” to come to me and he said it jest needed a regas and two days later the noise returned. Dammit. Should’ve listened to SJ above and others who said said it wouldn’t be low gas. Anyway, I mentioned this to the Indy dealer I use for service when I was there for an oil change and in 2 mins they found the pipe leaving the condenser had leak. To be fair, the “specialist” refunded me the £120 he charged. And to top it all, when I took it in for the AC to be fixed, they found the water pump housing was leaking! Bloody expensive month that was!

Do the T&CS say 'Servicing to manufacturers guidelines, recommendations, specification'. or such? Great if the Servicing & Maintenance guidelines, recommendations, schedule / specifications are clearly set out by the manufacturers. The posts and threads last week on the Cam Belt replacement period in Non dust rich countries' such as the UK were in sections on here last week. Getting that confirmed in writing from the Manufacturer or Importer in the UK which will be Skoda, or their franchised / authorised dealers / repairers and you are sorted.

Did you slacken off the central adjuster behind the lever inside the cabin? That should be the first step in any drum-related process, and the last adjustment at the end.

Badges gone!

No VAG? GET OUT!!! only joking 😂 I thought that too ate first but it seems that the lights switches between green and orange randomly, ill drive into a tunnel and I see the hieadlights automatically come on reflecting of the wall but no change on the switch :(, its only a small issue but I guess it keeps the dash clean with no lights being on it!

I passed my car licence in 1979 in a tiny Toyota Corolla. Satnav, reverse sensors and parking cameras were a figment of some mad scientists' mind. Roll on to 2015 when I gained a full motorcycle licence via a 4 day Direct Access course. This taught me a heightened sense of self-preservation, appreciation of road conditions, tyre contact patch etc. Riding a motor bike definitely makes you more aware of how blind many car drivers are when overtaking, pulling out of junctions, ignoring prevailing road and weather conditions. The irony is that whilst car technology, BHP, economy, and particularly safety, has improved beyond recognition since the 70's, a lot has deteriorated. Much heavier traffic, resulting in less tolerant drivers. Terrible road surfaces and much more tech inside the cockpit to divert attention away from the road ahead. Additionally safety aids such as ABS, seem to encourage people to drive too close. The current theory test is definitely an improvement, emphasising hazard perception. I know that I would not relish learning to drive a car in 2023.

Just an average shot....

If you can't decompress the file Just download and Install "7zip": https://www.7-zip.org/ I was going to shoot a little video, too about how to handle the update in your car but at the end of it i had to realize that I didn't hit the record button probably lol. All in all it was quite self explaining and took a little patience in some stages of the procedure.

That’s more like it. 100% they don’t trace the whole system for issues, they just top it up and check it works

I know. It’s a bleedin’ liberty! I called the SMMT to lodge my complaint and they were extremely rude.

sounds like the service indicator hasn't been reset properly last time round and fine to wait to next January for it's next service given your low annual mileage.

Back out at crail at the weekend, decided to head up to help a friend with their 9 second street car. managed to get a few runs in as well to test out some changes, look forward to see what the fan club have to say this time 🥰 500BHP Noble owner seemed as surprised as me there was only a car length in it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9CbyNlwHAM GTB2566 Fabia vRS https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7gsprhjKbyk 425BHP M140i https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibdssb45Vd0 390BHP 8V S3 staged too deep on this one so tripped the beam and red lit https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEyiTySzu30 the 2 AWD Honda's https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZdk5m21yTU

My dad started driving in 1935 - no test - and stopped driving when he had a stroke at age 89. I’d never known him not to have a company car or his own after retirement, and had a clean licence throughout. I’m now on 3-year post age 70 licences, having passed my bike test in 63, and car test in 64. It’s the bike licence that is more concerning, IMO, I passed aged 16 on an old Lambretta, and the following weekend bought a 350 Norton. Even now I am licenced to ride any high powered bike, regardless of when I last rode.

Few Hours! Once I extracted the files to the memory stick and plucked up the nerve to do the update it took no more than 45m to complete. Another dealer taking the proverbial.

Currently have a 272 sportline superb. Surprises many. Even the odd vRS. surprises me on a b road. superb pros: total sleeper, massive boot, 4x4 superb cons: free slippers, barge in the twisties; fixable. octavia vrs pros: bigger boot than class avg. plenty of them. octavia vrs cons: bit shouty for my likes, without the actual shout. sportline and vrs will be similar seating. Superb more grand tourer. Octavia still good on a b road but getting fatter each year. if you want an extra few bags in the boot and total under the radar, a sportline superb, hard to beat. mines a March 19 plate, sportline, DCC, canton, hatch, wbac pitching in around 23k. DCC I was in two minds about. I still am. It’s nice popping it in comfort on the motorway. Then “sport” once into other roads, dual, a’s, b’s and back to comfort on single track. So … id be happy in the vrs. I’m happy-ish in the superb. I’m probably going to swap to a meganne, or a five. HTH

Do you have to take it out? Couldn’t you just run it down, say 1/4 tank at a time and gradually enrich the fuel in the tank? Even if that means using the highest octane fuel you can get. It’s not like you put diesel in.

Firstly, my reply was intended to play down the whole “stop/start” phenomenon and was supposed to reassure people that for it to work so many variables have to be right…..that was all. I don’t appreciate semi aggressive responses for comments I made that meant no harm or offence. And no, I DONT profess to know the ins and outs of a system that is as random as stop/start BUT I’ve had enough cars with this system to know that it’ll work when everything is right and won’t when it’s not. So, to protect yourself from offence (when none was meant) just don’t read my posts in future, simple as that. I was once told that you’ll never win an argument with a fool, so let’s leave it there and may our paths never cross on here again. Have an amazing day👍

Sounds like you've been unlucky - from 2006 until 2016 I had an Audi RS4 Avant (4.2 V8) but retirement meant I needed something more sensible and since then I've had a couple of Mk3 Octavias (a 1.4TSI Elegance estate and a 1.8TSI L&K hatch) and had fewer build quality issues than I had with the RS4.

Unexpected phone call today, car is at the dealers and will be ready to collect on Monday...

Just done 630 mile trip in my 2.00 litre diesel 197 bhp.it still had 2 bats on fuel gauge when I got back home I filled up next day and cost was £ 61 so to me excellent mpg.

If I get around 55mpg from the 2.0tdi VRs I will be happy I also tow a small caravan and having the diesel torque helps Due to collect the car sometime this week came off the boat at Grimsby so I have a nice 300mile drive home to south west Scotland 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 with the car

WLTP is not real world, nor is RDE2. Not driving UK summer or winter of any days on UK roads with UK conditions or speed limits. Maybe with or without Stop start enabled or regens happening etc. So the only thing that matters is location location location and how you use, journey length etc. Ps. Manual or DSG. Tyres at comfort pressures, light loaded car or eco pressures, family car / taxi with actual people and stuff in it.