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I decided to test the old grey matter today and replace my rear discs and pads, prior to putting it in for an MOT, only covered 29k on original rear discs and pads. Fronts are in better shape. Bit disappointed by the longevity of the rear discs. First pictures of original disc. Next picture of disc, pad and calliper stripped off the hub. The hardest part I found was taking off the calliper retaining bracket, had to buy a couple of M14 heads to do so, access very tight and the bolts were tight, but I got there eventually working off the ground on an axle stand and trolley jack. It would have certainly been easier from a lift. It's been over 10 years since I've changed rear discs, would have been unable to do so without a rewind kit, too. Which I already had. Last pic, finished job. Fronts looks a doddle to change.

Weeping is normal but leaking to that extent is not, both Skoda dealers don't seem to understand the difference

They are shot, your observations re Skoda are correct, VAG even created a BS document speaking of "misting" from vaporised damping fluid conveniently being blind to the boiling point being around 300°C. Try trading it in towards a newer model and see how their tune changes! The one photo'd is an MOT failure and by extension the vehicle is not safe to be driven, I never make these kind of alarmist projections (wrong word) but in your case you need some leverage against the crooks, I would give them one more opportunity to reconsider their position before you pay to have the urgent repairs done and obtain a judgement against them in the small claims court. Heck the BS document even has photos to show what they claim is misting and what is a leak, the latter is far less than yours so by their own admission they are trying it on. Hopefully someone will link to the document.

At a guess, your car has a MK60 based ABS pump. When you swapped the clusters, the ABS pump will have noticed the VIN mismatch and wiped it's own coding. The easiest solution is to have Skoda or someone with ODIS online recode the module pulling the correct coding data from the VAG servers. You can try and generate a working code yourself but there is no guarantee it'll be 100% correct. A VCDS autoscan or similar will help confirm the issue and may help folk suggest a working coding.

Muppets, they are dumb enough to put their stupidity in writing! All the better for you though, ask an MOT tester and if he says its a fail pay him to test it to certify that, ask him to really scrutinise the vehicle closely because he might identify other stuff that you can force them to pay for, you might as well add them to the court claim. I think I would pay an independant to do the work and not trust those jokers to do anything other than tell lies, they may even believe the K-rap they are being told to trot out but it doesn't change the facts.

Yes, especially as you have gone from an EFB to an AGM type. Maybe don't use Halfrauds again. Thanks. AG Falco

IF ONLY people read the “whole” thread before berating others Regardless, thank you for clearing it up for me, that post was informative.

Not that it helps, but I have a 2018 too and one shock had failed, the other one leaking like yours. My local independent flagged it when they were investigating other issues. They were also quite damning about Skoda identifying and fixing these issues. As others have said, it's an MOT failure in both cases. Sorry.

Use the Pro. I would avoid paying extra for the ultimate. One touch apps for long coding are very risky and results can be uncertain and difficult to unwind. Long coding is much more controllable.

I've been working with a chap who looks after the mobile generator trucks we use at work. Turns out they have been bought be a much bigger company (so serious investment is now available) and are now looking at hydrogen fuel cell gennies! Already some golf and tennis events have had a Hydrogen genny on site and I believe they can produce around 250kW from a cell that is surprisingly small. He described a cell area of around 3 x 4 feet, or there abouts, which seem tiny for something that can produce 250kW (I have no idea about the actual molecular science involved in this technology of course ). They also use a huge amount of conventional battery technology to supplement this generator, with a sort of topping up process going on continuously I gather, but the fuel cell can run full tilt as a pure generator if needed. They do have to redesign the truck/generator body however, so if it goes 'BANG' then the roof blows off and the sides stay intact. I might not be parking next to one of these though...just to be sure SKY TV are looking to go full hydrogen/battery for all their OBs by 2030, although I gather the costs at the moment mean the electricity bill will go up 3 or 4 times. I may well be still in the industry long enough to see these things appear I'm super interested to see one in action

@J.R.there really are hysterical tyres on my new car. More suited to a Scalextric car or using on a Karting track. They will stay on for maybe a month or two just to see how good they are to hypermile the car but they will be replaced pretty quick as the frosts appear or maybe even rain like we have just had today.

Bit difficult if only changing 2 tyres, but one of the good reasons to change to all seasons is they tend not to suffer cracking in same way as summer tyres. But going forward look at swapping tyres around about every 9-13k miles to even out wear, so can change all 4 together. Another bonus is don't feel obliged to try and match what could be superseded tyre.

Definitely expanded foam and from a DIY aerosol and not a pro gun judging by the collateral splatter. That also looks like a tywrap above it. I reckon its a bodge to stop something vibrating and rattling so have some sympathy and understanding, I have several guns with different compounds on the go at all times, by multi-purpose bodging tools of choice!

+1, it's old, but not obsolete. ....also famously said by a Terminator 😉 The stuff recommended already still applies.

Its inconcievable that all of the backlighting Leds will have failed, maybe a dry joint somewhere which you reflowed when replacing the leds. The car drives fine you say, did the warning lights go out? What you described is completely normal after a battery disconnection. If the only problem you have is not being able to erase the historic fault codes that is because you only have a basic code reader and these are safety related systems requiring access to the individual controllers. Try an ABS stop in a safe area to be sure the system is operating.

This topic is not old. It’s just dynamic a full of information. 😁 Take time to read, you´ll find the answer for sure… 😉

Each manual will cover all options for that model year. As you have a vRS, you'll have plenty of equipment that's not fitted to a base spec 'S' model car 👍 You don't need to worry about the bonnet ejecting as the active bonnet was only fitted in to the 2012/2013 models. Assuming you've shut it properly, there is no reason for it to open during any driving situation

That looks to me like expanding foam, which has no place in an engine bay! Have you had the car from new? Has it been in an accident? Possibly dodgy crash repair methods?!

No No, the battery does not have that type of clamp, look at the battery that you supplied the link to, https://www.oscaro.com/batterie-bosch-0-092-s40-080-1777147-2585-p# it has a lip all the way round the bottom of it, that is where the clamp is fitted. The tray has special a shape holds one side of the lip down and the clamp goes on the opposite side to clamp it at the base. Top mounted clamps have almost disappeared on modern cars as the battery fumes corrode the metal and make them less effective.

You won't see any lines on the Octavia. Skoda uses a laminated resistive foil, no wires in there. Visually from outside you will notice a green or purplish tint depending on the direction you're looking from.

Well I've just splashed out on it for the next two years. Mainly for peace of mind with regards to my dsg box, engine. They won't be touching my brakes and I won't be taking any of their extras though🤣

Hi everyone, picked up a nice 67 plate Edition 2.0 TSI DSG yesterday, in Quartz Grey with a great spec including Pano roof, DCC, Heated rear seats, Area view camera, Park Assist, ACC, Heated windscreen, Virtual Pedal, Interior Light Pack, Spare wheel, Memory seats (both) and more. 6 years old but 1 owner from new, full Skoda history and just serviced. Bought privately so I have a nice thick history file including all the invoices and the original bill of sale too 👍🏻 Pleased with it so far, it’s a nice place to be and the engine seems well suited to the car.

Looking at your pictures again it does seem that the octy hub is about 2 or 3 times deeper than my Superb.

Yes, I would think they'll be fine. However, phone ECP or drop in and show them how there doesn't seem to be a claimed (by Monroe) match between the ones they sold you and the correct OE number for your VIN/car, and see what they say.

I think the fuel cell genny that I was discussing with the 'Sparky' chap, used really big truck turbos to deliver the oxygen/air to the cell

Refurbish them and then get them powder coated to whatever colour you wish, far more resilient than diamond cut wheels. I know, I refurbished my diamond cut and they never lasted and wish that I just went to the powder coat which was cheaper.

We're obviously looking at that from different angles. You look at a checklist and if the box has been ticked then you're happy. To be fair that's the majority view. I on the otherhand I only see a ticked box - it doesn't mean to say the work has been carried out. If it has then what standard? Do they stand at the other side of the garage, look over at the car and say that's the bodywork checked? Means nothing to me other than a box has been checked. If a service schedule says that a bodywork check is included and I hold a receipt to say I paid for said check, that 's no less evidence than the above checklist. Why do we want bodywork checks to be carried out anyway? We want them because in the case of some defect, we can say hey Skoda, the car you sold me has a manufacturing fault and I'd like a warranty repair please. The warranty company are never going to go in to detail looking at Skoda's checklist - they most certainly will do if the car was servicied outside the dealer network tho. All they want to know is was the service carried out at an authorised dealer. If the service record has been updated, then what's the point of a checklist for warranty repair? I'm only interested in what's wrong with my car, I don't need three pages worth of telling what's not wrong with it. I just sold my Karoq which included a glovebox full of these checks and warranty work I accumulated over the years. All in neat handover folders that were carried out by my local Skoda dealer. The dealer who bought the car from me didn't bother looking at any of it. When I pointed out the service paperwork he said "Aye" and that was as far as his interest went. The only time my service checklists have come in useful was when I sent to to MJ1 for this post

Have you ever inspected the brake servo vacuum pipe for cracks at the junctions?

Wise lady.

Thanks for the reply 👍 This Warranty with Cars is a big scam, just looks good when buying

Thanks for folks responses so far and just to clarify which I perhaps should have done at the start. The All in One Package promises (or did 2 years ago) the following: - The issue is that Listers Banbury did not undertake a Bodywork, drive belt inspection. The staff at Listers Banbury have been very helpful but it is not on their checklist so I have absolutely no gripe with the staff and and I have been impressed by them. It looks like there could be a disconnect between what VWFS sells and what is being delivered. I have raised a formal complaint with VWFS and Listers today to see if they can explain why there is a disconnect. Another poster has kindly sent me a check list they got from their dealer and it does cover the Belt and Bodywork as shown here It is way more detailed and a longer list so if I had that from the dealer saying they had followed the tick list sheet I would have no issue. I suggest folk check if you are paying for the "All in One" package ensure your dealer actually does a Bodywork and Drive Belt check - especially now Drive belts are not being replaced early... I will update the thread as and when I know more. If anyone else on the "All in One" package gets a different report always good to see how the different dealer networks are following through on what VWFS sells us. Cheers

Well I've an update on this - my wife called Skoda and according to my kids laid down the riot act. Skoda are sending out an "advanced technician" to see us from 12:30 today. So the lesson here is to just let me wife deal with these things - she gets things done 🤷‍♂️

Made 26th week - SW 1940

Pretty much the same as above. If I know I'll only be waiting a short while, I'll stay in Drive. If I've just come to a stop on a multi light junction, I'll whack in Neutral and pull the handbrake. I try not to creep when in slow moving traffic, I don't know what wear that might have on the DSG box, so I avoid it where I can Don't think there is any right or wrong way to do things, I'm only 1 year into driving a DSG myself.

Hello and welcome on in

Whereabouts are you?

Phew = thank Goodness ours has Prinacy 3's . I put the pressures up to 34 this morning - will see how that goes. Wife has taken it out for the first time with only minor drama caused by the DSG selector not looking exactly the same as the one in her Tiguan. Separately: I knew it didn't have these but I'm bemused by the lack of wheel arch trims. Pictures of Karoqs, including in the brochures, generally show them but looking around the dealer they were only on odd cars. I was convinced daughters Ateca didn't have them but she was here yesterday and it does. I reckon they saved the Tiguan from damage when a bus swiped the front wing - left lots of paint but it all polished off.

As mac suggests, @Ukpaul204, this (identifying the correct fitment part via VIN) really is the starting point you need to go from, before worrying about anything else. The sticker in your photo shows a VW group part number, but not necessarily the right one for that shock absorber, it may be a subcomponent of it. Reason I say this is that the part number has 512 as its middle section. Look at Crasher's list of compatible shocks, and you'll see that all the real, actual OE part numbers have 513 as their middle characters. If you look at parts catalogues for Superb or Octy rear shocks, I believe you'll find that they are all 513's too, so the number you're trying to cross-reference is not helping you at all!

Yesterday turned out to be great weather, sunny with some clouds but not too hot. We went for a drive around Wales, first getting to Llandovery via the A40 and parking up by the castle. From here we went North-ish along some fantastic roads, the A483 and onto the A470 and then B4518. Chasing the Mercedes was fun, he had the pull but I kept with him in the corners. I haven't had much of a chance to drive the car on extended B road blasts, nor in Sport mode. I decided I didn't like the gearbox revving out in every gear, it wasnt needed and I wanted to stay around 2.5k - 3k which seemed to be where the bulk of the power was. Manual mode was great but I realised the shifts are a bit sluggish. The improved throttle response was just right however. I wasn't a fan of the automatic downshift the car was doing on overtakes. Even without pressing the extra bit, I'd drop a gear (often to 3rd) indicate, accelerate and the car would drop down a gear to 2nd which would rev out and lose puff before I'd Scrabble for 3rd. We stopped at Llanidloes for a quick drink and back onto A470, then A489 to Newtown for a fuel stop. We then followed the B4355 out of Newtown and got stuck in traffic due to an accident. Worst views to have though! Onto the A483 and A470 again, A479 and A40 back to Abergavenny. I lost track of where we were driving and followed Matt at this point but some of the roads were absolutely stunning, I was happy to sit back and just admire the local landscape. It was a great drive but going in the summer we met alot of traffic. The cars performed faultlessly, not complaining at all. I did get the microswitch fault pop up on dash a few times, it's getting more common and I intend to get it sorted. The brake pedal also felt a little softer, I am not sure when fluid was changed so this will be on my to do list soon. In terms of the way the car handles, the front is definitely now superior to the back. The back always felt like it dragged its ass around but with the refreshed front it definitely felt weaker. I believe the spacers helped a little though but it's obvious a stiffer rear anti roll bar would firm the back up and help it pivot a bit, especially initial turn in. Once the car was loaded in the corner it was fine but initial turn in felt a bit soft. Certainly rear dampers, a GTi rear ARB, droplinks and bolts are needed. Brake fluid change too. Power wise, although I'd always wanted a remap I didn't feel it needed it. On several parts this trip I did think it could use more power and torque. Definitely more to come!

If you are telling me that a slight vibration/nudge on your steering wheel is dangerous then I’d suggest you stop moaning about it and get another car (preferably without lane assist). My missus has lane assist too and not once has she ever mentioned it as being an issue…..let alone dangerous. Embarrassing 😂

Super easy, 15-20min job. Don’t think there’s more space between the turbo and firewall Superb vs Golf R but it’s a non issue.

UPDATE I bought the straps from a main dealer £61.80 incl' VAT After giving both straps couple of extra coats of black paint I fitted them today. I Had run fuel down so there was only 1/4 of a tank, I supported front of tank with a block of wood with a rubber pad taped to it and it sitting on top of the trolly jack pad. For the rear I wedged a piece of wood in between the tank and the rear cross beam, then fitted the O/S first then N/S, both fitted perfectly.

The spike if there would be one would be from the alternator. You are right, although it does not say to disconnect them on reflection I agree with you that is what they meant and how most inexperienced owners would read it, it suggests the jump start because you have a flat battery not as a means of maintaining the 12v during the swap. Your battery should have a clamp, many go missing because fitters have fat fingers and little patience! Your radio is paired to the vehicle, if it asks for a code just ignore it and wait a few minutes and it will sync and start working again, I didn't know this and gave myself no end of grief trying every number I could see written down in the handbook, eventually it locked out after too many wrong codes, I went to bed grumpy blaming the previous owner etc (anyone but myself!) the next morning the radio worked when I started it! I never bother with maintaining the voltage on these vehicles now when disconnecting or changing the battery, the radio sorts itself out, the dashboard looks like fault code city but they all clear within 50 meters of driving, I might have to reteach the electric windows that is all, I dont even know how to do that, I just press and hold the buttons until they work properly. So to recap, nothing to gain by leaving the engine running and plenty to lose, it would probably be OK but why take the risk? - Nothing to gain.

Cornwall/Devon/Somerset residents only priority bays ?

Both oils quoted above meet VW504.00 specifications which is the recommended spec for the OP's engine oil. You can mix brands even weights to your hearts content as all but exotic PAO oils are fully miscible. Stick to a vw 504.00 specification oil to maximize the possibilty of a long trouble free life for your engine. Look for the specification printed on the container. Might say approved to or meets the requirements of. But thats a debate for another day.

Save us from Emmetts and Grockels.

I have a 1.2 HTP 12v. However @TMBis an ex-1.4 MPI owner so can maybe help here.

Parking by the sea, kerbing and auto car washes. It’s almost like you’re intentionally trying to destroy them. Seriously though, diamond cut wheels are, as said, not great for longevity. And the three points mentioned above really won’t help that.

You could say the same thing about an entire car, no? it’s only a convenience, you could technically walk everywhere. and a set of aftermarket struts are around £250 so not exactly bank breaking in the entire scheme of things