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I think of all the issues that one might have with EVs, the risk of them catching fire should be low on the list. If you are concerned about rechargeable batteries catching fire, you might consider how many cheap rechargeable devices you have knocking about at home. How sure are you that one of those isn't suddenly going to let go in the middle of the night and start a house fire you might find difficult to extinguish? I'm warming to the idea of an EV. I could live without the EV evangelism, but I understand the urge to share a positive experience and the frustration towards nay-sayers. Maybe EV fires will become a problem, but right now, I think it's too early to regard them as a recognisable threat.

That makes me feel even older - my first car was a pre-war Morris 8! Two seater tourer (rag top), given to me by my sister when it failed its MOT - cost me 2/6d for a new reflector, plus tightening up all the front (cart spring) suspension. Wish I still had it… (that’s it in the background in the pic. I’m on the left,sitting astride my 350 Norton, wearing my school uniform.)

@Graham ButcherI did not mean another list about fires. We have pages of fires. It is you Report on the 50,000 + mile thing before greener. Really it matters not because we are where we are and there are some that can not see the wood for the trees. Idiots that talk about not towing EV,s (ike Brain of Britain in the first video after your post) because they generate electricity as the wheels turns seem to not be aware that would be awd EV,s as FWD or Rear Wheel drive EV,s get towed by the RAC, AA or others using a dolly with the drive wheels on it. Simple details like that are what goes right over some peoples heads. How many people can not use their common sense or pay attention to details and facts and try to get to know about the subject? PS Typing while charging for free. No idea what the source of the electricity is but there is a storage battery and solar panels on the roof and the battery at the hub might be full or taking in off peak electricity. There are council mini busses and vans charging and cars left overnight on AC chargers and i am the only one on a rapid charger. Lots of chargers, lots of charging and if one vehicle goes up it will be a sight to see.

I suspect that the rear crossmember/subframe/call it what you will has severe corrosion and the upper wishbone has parted company, that would explain the confusion in the terms. Could equally be a rotted upper or lower wishbone, the whole set up is self composting! Every day someone is on here saying, "my garage/my mechanic says.................." and the challenge is usually to find what the real issue is or indeed no issue at all, and then to convince the owner who has swallowed the guff.

Eh? Just put in a value in £ or fill it till the nozzle clicks off. No need to be cautious.

Update. After the spring the issues started again when outside temperatures rose. I got in contact with a German head mechanic working for VAG, after explaining my issues he immediately said: '09 chassis? We've had this before and in the end we replaced negative ground cable from chassis to battery. So I followed that and replaced that though no signs or damage and hey presto issues are gone since June. Part nr: 6Q0971235H - Wiring set for battery Hope this helps whoever gets into similar issues... It must be thermal and/or current load that's causing the internal resistance to rise. Static measurements do not give me indication of a fault. Terminal ends are clean and not corroded.

Sky? what sk..... ohhhh 😇 Is that the Seven Sisters at 9 o'clock to Jupiter? G

I see... The commonly used CRLB as an example is £6525.60 genuine VAG inc VAT and comes with new injectors and glow plugs.

Jupiter. Eos 250D 18mm f/4 30 seconds ISO 3200

Hi Mario and rest of those who have following this post... So this morning I managed to go to the service center, remove the speaker from the central panel and do a test drive. The buzzing annoying sound was still there while driving in the Normal and Sports mode. Though the service center guys says they might have to remove the dashboard to check further, I did not agree with this approach as I was not comfortable doing this for my new car. Now this is where the twist comes... This sensible technician guy said, he wanted to check one last thing and see if that can be a fix. And guess what... his experience and intuition worked and the sound is now gone!!! What a relief. So the issue seemed to be coming from the outside Cowl top and he checked the Borne Sound Actuator area - I believe he aligned those wires, tightened the screws there, and fixed them properly, maybe even put a double side tape to ensure all loose wires stays intact. Did a test drive now and that annoying sound is not there anymore. I am going to continue checking this and monitor for any sounds and see if it's all good. Thank you for pointing me in this direction and guiding me with your advise. Much appreciated fellow Skoda lover Note: This post is specifically for Skoda Octavia VRS 2022 model. Location: UAE

Which all-season are you going with? For Leaf, I need to start shopping for tyres soon, finally all 4 are wearing out at same time, so thinking of going all season as well.

At half past 3 in the middle of the night. Man, you are dedicated. For your info, if you are ever nearby to open-to-all supercharger, worth checking. I've seen some Tesla superchargers have off-peak price of 21p at 0-4am. Price is calculated at the time you plug it in (eg. plug in at 3:59 and get off peak price). Yesterday I tried to charge on a really really old CYC post, which are managed by BP Pulse but fallen into disrepair and it is in an underground car park that can't authenticate with Pulse server (hence I can get free charging). I plugged in at above 40% in my Leaf, when I unplug the car was at 33% and charge point said no power delivered 😡 Got home scanned for error and had a few in the HVAC module. I had to clear the error code for it to charge. Another quirk of first-gen legacy auto maker EV, if it had actual useful information display (charging amp, voltage, power, etc) I could have known there's problem and won't left it plugged in self-consuming power for its electronics. I've had different error code in similar module, "unstable input voltage" error on the Tesla at home as solar production swings wildly on a windy day whilst a cooking appliance uses PWM to control its power draw. Tesla didn't need any programming dongle to clear the code, it has a notification system like phones and simply unplug and plug it back in to clear that error. There's no evidence to suggest this failure is anywhere near normal and need to be calculated as running cost. The video said it's due to a single module discharging faster than rest, suggesting manufacturing defect that surfaced as the battery ages. I've seen Leaf 40 pack with similar defect on SpeakEV, that should be under warranty. There are a few high mileage (but not old age) examples out there: https://electrek.co/2020/06/06/tesla-battery-degradation-replacement/ <- reason for this 300k mile replacement is similar https://www.autoevolution.com/news/this-2018-tesla-model-3-passed-the-300000-mile-mark-here-s-what-you-need-to-know-194534.html The replacement cost lines up with this article: https://www.motortrend.com/features/how-long-does-a-tesla-battery-last/

I too am in Australia and for several months was experiencing these warnings on nearly every start - accompanied my loud bonging sounds. At my 2 year service in June they performed updates under warranty which are listed in my invoice as "91CV MIB Software Update" and "48S5 camera control unit". My version was at 1896 before and did not change with this service. The problems have not recurred since. After two years I can finally say that there are no issues outstanding. It is easy to forget how many annoying issues existed since delivery and took ages to get fixed. I really enjoy this car now.

My car has been in Auto 100% of the time since I got it. The lights come on in the evenings or in tunnels or carparks. I never have to do anything. This is how it looks in my garage when the lights are on. The lower green symbol goes out when I drive out into the street and the lights go off.

From what I can gather its the outer o-ring seal for the half-shaft, also called deflector ring, fits on drive shaft end before inserting splines into front wheel bearing Part no 6Q0407623E Item 10a here Item 3 here

Enjoy looking at modding old EV's? It's guys like this that's making it possible. Old Leaf battery? No problem, he's using Leaf battery as home battery with some very simple wiring: Before you say fire risk, the BMS are in the packs, BMS controls everything to do with pack safety. He's only sending Chademo or translate CAN bus commands to achieve his goal.

The Octavia MK2 has independent rear suspension, not a beam axle. Can you take a photo of the part that is broken? Perhaps the upper wishbone (13), lower wishbone (7), or the axle guide (2). Broken rear springs are very common. When you say the wheel suddenly went inwards, do you mean that it looked like the rear spring was suddenly fully compressed? If so, this is most likely a broken spring. If you don't have a factory fitted towbar, then gknautomotive thinks you have rear springs with OEM part number 1K0511115BF. These springs have 1 white dot, and 3 yellow dots. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/OCT/419/5/505/505005

the latest is 1941

Very few consumer items are a threat when new, what I know will be a problem issue when EV’s are a decade old and being patched up in time honoured fashion is cheap working practices and these will kill people.

Have you checked the pollen filter and air entry prior to it? Is the fan actually blowing (as oppose to the motor spinning, but not the impeller)? Gaz

Correctamundo

Minimum thickness is often stamped into the disc, either around the edge, or on the 'bell' part.

Corret, it has replace the standard lane assist now.

The warranty on the car would not be affected. The new parts would not be covered under warranty by the manufacturer, however we would cover them under our warranty There's currently no way to record the camera being installed (regardless of whatever people may say) as there's no official retrofit kit with SVM document for the Octavia IV. Otherwise, the parts would be included under the manufacturer warranty once recorded.

I'm afraid the missus would clout me I'll try and get Jupiter when it's a bit higher next time.

You might find some useful tips on the topic below. On page 3 there are some posts of @Felix2021 addressing the problems you mention:

Yep.

Hello minky, from the South Coast too Gaz

Great ! very good news 🙂, now we know from where it's really coming from, thanks to share your experience with the rest. My god, they wanted to remove the dashboard just for that intervention ... no words !

Thanks All. Here in finland TRWs were lile just 14 euros whereas Bosch is around 25euros. Really surprized that most of you all experts suggested TRW over and above bosch / brembo. Will go with TRWs then. Thanks alot you all great people. Have a great day. Stay safe.

@wyx087Not dedicated, i was travelling and getting 30 minutes charge before doing another 90 mile and charging again which i did and now at 98% and ready for going where i am going. That is what travelling in an EV with a small range is about and actually going places away from home. I am not often near Tesla superchargers other than were there are CPS chargers so unless i am no point to me. Sometime i might have to use Aviemore, Tomorrow i do need charging around Aberdeen in the morning and then north & have trying to see what has been reported as faulty / out of order and i know i am just going to pay 70 pence a kWh or more and not go out of my way. **** Found a MGF forecourt with 5 rapids. 79 pence a kWh. If needs must i will use.**** PS All seasons going on in the morning before i head off tomorrow so i will see if any adverse affect on range. Last night it was pithing down and no traffic about other than lots of HGV,s ferry bound & it was nice to get sitting off the tail of one. PPS The charger at the Stabucks i have used North of Aberdeen is 70 pence a kWh but great for location and just getting on my way. ....................... http://evyve.co.uk There is one of these Evyve chargers near Aberdeen Airport which could suit me when in a hurry and i can not mess about with Aberdeen / Aberdeenshire Council chargers / hubs. Another in Dundee, but then no shortage of chargers there. & near the Porsche dealership / charger & Park and Ride, Tesla superchargers and new improved hub Broxden Perth. Taking for ever to complete.

Super pro don't list these arms as a replacement for the Superb, was the length the same? Someone on FB Australia group followed your advice but arms were shorter, lost camber and the front of the car was raised!

highly doubt that - aftermarket downpipes won't b impacted by that cover. It has been used by many Golf R owners, which uses the same engine as the 280, so there won't b any issues with the engine being able to handle it. I haven't changed the factory intercooler pipes - the OEM ones r more than enough for Stage 1.

First, thousands of cars out of how many sold each year? Over 1.6 million car registered a year. Is 0.25% of statical importance? Second, break even point varies depend on energy source and size of battery. Of course getting those use-cases 100 kWh battery EV's will never see net zero. 20 miles a week is just over 1000 miles a year. Even a first-gen 20 kWh Zoe/Leaf will be more than plenty. For those use cases, the Citroen Ami is the perfect car. I know you will dismiss the following as "vested interest" or "paid by manufacturers". But I believe Union of Concerned Scientists to be genuine, considering their origin: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Union_of_Concerned_Scientists https://www.ucsusa.org/resources/driving-cleaner https://www.sustainabilitybynumbers.com/p/ev-fossil-cars-climate

Is this not the thing that happens when someone gets the bolt lengths muddled when changing the dogbone bushes or is that another vehicle?

I replaced mine this afternoon & it was simple & straight forward. I ordered the Stabilus part ( from amazon for €13 each) as they are the OEM part. Easy to fit alone if you do them one by one. The struts can be removed easily using a flat blade screwdriver to pull-back the spring clips & then pull off without any resistance. You can hold the boot lid with one hand & fit the new strut easily. You don't need to open the clips on the new part. Just position it in the right place & apply light pressure. It will click into place without much force. The "whooooosh" is back now when you open the tailgate. Very happy for such a small price.

Fair point. I was merely comparing the most costly component on an ICE with that of an EV and on that basis the cost is comparable.

Question belongs in a different topic, but here you go:

I suspect the tyres if the transport blocks are really removed. But if they were still there it would not be soft suspension. If the tyres are staying and the car is staying i would be taking it to a professional for a PROPER Alignment check. Someone / someplace with all the gear, knows how to use it and with all the scores on the doors for your vehicle.

Switch to the other memory bank. Long term data v journey data. All explained in the user manual https://manual.skoda-auto.com/210/en-GB/Detail?model=Octavia_5E&edition=05-2016&market=&manualLang=en

Working off Superb controls here but I imagine they are the same. Click on the RHS scroll wheel and it will cycle through average since start, since refuel and long term.

Reduce your speed anyway even if no sticker on the Emergency Spare wheel you have since it is a non matching wheel / tyre / size / compound / tyre pressure to the other wheels on the car or on the other side on the same axle even if the circumference / total diameter is pretty close or even identical IMO. Just think about it, and rest the TPMS when the spare is on and again when the correct tyre is fitted.

The DRL and headlight are all one unit, you can't split them: It'll take considerable force as it's a moulded part of the headlight housing. Although there is a designed weak spot, it won't be easy to snap/lever out which is why it's a bumper off job to get good access. Please make sure you've sourced the repair cap before you remove it

8hrs for an update?😧 What 🤬 are they updating? With a decent internet connection it takes a matter of minutes to download the 9Gb file (it was about 15 minutes or so for my connection), and another 15 minutes or so to format, extract and transfer the update to a USB stick and about 20 to do the 1941 transfer and update and completion.

Just to update on this one, in case it helps someone else. Worked through Rich's comprehensive list (thanks again for this Rich) and drew a complete blank. However, whilst it was up in the air with the wheels off, I could see the pads were back slightly from the discs. I got my lad to press the brake pedal and could see that the pistons moved correctly, and pushed the pads on to the discs correctly, but when he released the pedal the pads were pulling back again, a few mm from the discs. This rang alarm bells, as they should stay put, and could only be pulling back if there was a "vacuum" in the master-cylinder reservoir. I took the cap off the reservoir, and got the lad to put the brake pedal to the floor and when he released it the pads stayed where they were and didn't pull back. I've replaced the cap now, and driven the car some thirty-odd miles and the knocking is completely gone, and the pedal also feels better, as the first part of the pedal travel is not now being used up sending the rear pads back into contact with the discs. I can only assume that as the new pads and discs (about nine months ago) have worn that the air above the brake fluid has not been replaced, causing a vacuum in the reservoir/master-cylinder, that pulls the pistons back in. I doubt it was down to anything the garage did when they changed the calipers, pads and discs for me, as they would have had to have bled it all afterwards - which would have necessitated taking the cap off to refill the fluid. So I can only assume that the cap should be vented, in order to allow air in to account for wear, but mine must be blocked or faulty in some way. Anyway, I'll see if the problem returns as the pads wear further.....

Remember to think carefully about the so called £3000 incentive If you go on the Skoda finance calculator, look at cash price and total payable, probably be near £5500 difference, and that is including the £3000, it would be £8500 without. So deal is they give you £3000, you give them £8500 in interest and fees If you take the £3000 discount and pay off the PCP balance between days 1-13 with no cost, then it's a good discount. But otherwise you need to accept you might be paying back about 3 times the £3000 they offer you in interest and fees if PCP runs for 4 years.

Strikes me as pretty normal pricing for genuine parts - I don't understand why you were shocked?

@LaurenceCarr This is how quick and easy it is, after I’ve released the 5 ‘petals’ you’ll see on my first attempt at pulling the trim off I’m not gripping the trim near enough to the centre. When I reposition my fingers behind and nearer the hub it pulls off effortlessly. FullSizeRender.MOV

Hi,The way i wired up my dashcam is as follows.Mount camera on windshield,route cable under the headlining toward edge of windscreen and down the side pushing cable into door rubber till you get tobottom of dashboard.Using the fitting kit(bought separately) under dashboard.With a 12v, probe find a switched live fuse,mine is a 5amp,top right in fuse box.Find a suitable earth and screw down.Your car is left hand drive so reverse my way of fitting to suit lhd car.Sounds complicated but should only take about 30-40 mins.HOPE This helps.

Embrace progress. 😉 The radio station can be changed via the steering wheel or voice controls in most cars nowadays too so that doesn't mean taking your eyes off the road. Keyless entry (with a security updated key) is effortless and I wouldn't buy any car without an auto handbrake as that also enhances the driving experience. I can however remember (a long time ago) never wanting to have an automatic car as thinking they were a waste of time - that theory has been turned on it's head too!