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Because they are upselling. What is wrong with the detergents in the diesel you buy? You could pay more and buy Premium Diesel if you wanted to. Arnold Clark,s call centre guy offered me fuel additive at the service for my Electric car. Not the brains they are born with.

Don't think so, but can't be 100% sure. That's the beauty of OCD. It's the gift that keeps on giving. 😊

I bought a 2106 MT-09 recently and had a local guy take some pics of me on it. If anyone local would like to do the same, let me know and I'll put you in touch.

Erm…. Hate to break it to you, but yes this is the OE manufacturer of the oil… but for the DQ250 box, the 381 uses a different oil. Even on the link you sent it shows it’s suitable for G052182 which is DQ250, whereas DQ381 oil is G055529

What's the oil level like in the car? Also this is probably worth a watch.

Sure! The shop which removed the diff is the VAG service center Elbatron https://forum.vwclub.bg/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=44549&start=180 They don’t repair diffs and transmissions, so I sent it to this workshop in Burgas which mainly work on BMWs https://www.bmw-shper.com (I couldn’t find someone is Sofia who has tools to measure the bearing gaps, etc) Most likely you won’t need, but just in case the guy who soldered my AWD module is https://avto-elektronchik.bg/contacts.html I highly recommend you to change also the rear driveshaft coupling if it hasn’t been changed already. I don’t have P/N on the invoice but I think it’s 5Q0521307. Ask or PM me directly if you have any questions. Good luck!

When it comes to OCD car concerns, you're in good company. Wain until you find out about the silica bag in your coolant reservoir. 😊

Last week I retrofitted a VC to my Superb 2.0 tdi MY18. Because the info on this subject is scattered all over this and other forums I decided to bundle it into a how-to. First of all a big thank you to RomanB, langers2k, Richie2019 and Camarao69 for the help with coding and with finding the correct parts. Before you start, make sure your car is able to do the retrofit. As I understand it, you will need a Mib 2.5 and also the correct gateway to be able to have a map display in the VC. If the part number of your gateway starts with 3Q0 it should work. Maybe also with other part numbers, but you will have to check. You can check the part number of your gateway with VCDS. What about Amundsen? I have read that with certain types of Amundsen it should also be able to show maps on VC. But coding is a bit different. And, as I don’t have Amundsen, I can’t really tell. I ordered the VC on ali: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001320853346.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dWnYaQ3 This VC comes with the optical MOST cable you will need for display of maps on the VC. Before you order, send the seller a message and ask for a discount. Also ask for him to declare a lower value (+/- 100 dollar) to customs. I paid around 60 euro import tax based on this value. If you have the CANTON sound system, you will need a Most splitter. https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001590588805.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dWnYaQ3 Or https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/33003652246.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dysj90l (about the MOST splitters: I ordered both, but you will only need one of them. The first link looked like the better quality item, but it had 2 male connectors and 1 female. What you need is 1 male and 2 female connectors. The VC came with a spare female connector, so I used this spare connector to convert the splitter into 1 male and 2 female. It’s easy, just mind the arrows on the connector. They depict the data stream direction. The item from the second link is ready to be installed and does not need to changed. However just eyeballing it, it did not look as good as the one in the first link.) Vag audio removal tools: You need 4 pieces. https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001502327510.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.61f03aa8VhZ892&algo_pvid=87f048ac-c0af-469f-a3a5-aa59929ac254&algo_expid=87f048ac-c0af-469f-a3a5-aa59929ac254-0&btsid=0bb0624716157231348261767efc60&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ Trim removal tools: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32963954415.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.477d61553u3Dn4&algo_pvid=40621dfe-6b26-4916-954e-3a1a0de8cdfc&algo_expid=40621dfe-6b26-4916-954e-3a1a0de8cdfc-0&btsid=0bb0623d16157232258103800e5d6b&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ And a Vas5054a for pairing the keys to the cluster via remote coding. Links to a Vas5054a come and go. They don’t work for long. Look on ali and read the reviews. Disregard complaints about the software as you will not need to install it. Often there are choices in quality. Choose the best one available. Bluetooth is not necessary, I just used a usb cable. And you will also need a windows laptop. I also ordered a screen protector for the mib 2.5 and for the VC. Just to protect them while do the installation: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32931529165.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dtJsu3p and https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001805982326.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dtJsu3p And of course you will also need a VCDS-cable or a similar device. Wait until the parts arrive and, in the meantime, find an online coding service for pairing the keys to new cluster, remove component protection and to set the odometer to the correct setting. I used: Vag retrofit and Coding. Telegram: https://t.me/vagretrofit Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/vagretrofitcoding/ Cost: 75 euro for 2 keys and 100 euro for 3 keys. Maybe there are cheaper/better alternatives, but this worked for me. The VAS 5054a comes with software. You do not have to install this software for use with a online coding service. You will only need to install TeamViewer. Before you start tinkering: Make an autoscan with VCDS and save the log to your computer. This saved my ass, because after the online coding of the VC, my sunroof lost it’s coding. With the autoscan available it was easy to fix. I also made screenshots from every byte of my old cluster, using the long coding helper (example, of just one byte, below) With this, it’s easier to setup the VC. See the service manual how to unclip the various trim parts. There is a certain sequence in releasing the clips. Before I used the online coding service, I installed the MOST cable. It was a pain. The wires behind the Mib unit in the glovebox were too short. So I needed to dismount the entire glovebox to get access.I connected the MOST splitter to the existing MOST cable and the new MOST cable. Removed the Mib headunit and old cluster to pull the new MOST cable in place. If you don’t have CANTON there may be a protective cover over the MOST connector on the Mib. After you have pulled the MOST cable into position, reconnect your Mib headunit. It needs to be connected while the online coding is being done. This it to remove component protection. Also reconnect your old cluster. You will need it connected at the start of online coding. I also tested my audio, just to be sure it was working after the MOST splitter install. A video which gives an idea how to remove the cluster: (the screws are behind the left and right trim parts. Not under the center one) A picture from pulling the cable: After all this you can start with the online coding process. Have all you keys readily available. It took 2 full hours in my case. When you install the VC, make sure to remove the grey protector in the MOST connector on the VC: After the online coding you can start your car, but your dash will light up with faults because of the lack of coding. Coding the cluster: I now took all my screenshots of the long coding from my old cluster to code the VC. Just one note: Leave Byte 0 bit 1 unchecked. It will give an ‘’entry out of range” error message if you try to code it. After you coded everything in, the error messages will disappear. Just take caution with your fuel gauge and make sure it is accurate so you don’t run out of fuel. My fuel gauge tends to read fuller than with the old cluster so I don’t trust it yet and may change the coding on it. Coding 5F (mib): Long coding: Uncheck byte 22 bit 0: Make sure MOST is on (for non CANTON cars) Byte 19 bit 5 Adaptation (5F): For imaging through MOST: - ENG122230-ENG142097-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-ability_switch_nav_maps,OFF - ENG122230-ENG122343-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-call_picture,On - ENG122230-ENG122341-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-coverart,On - ENG122230-ENG122340-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_compression_mode,H264 - ENG122230-ENG122344-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_resolution,resolution_3 - ENG122230-ENG127006-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-crossroad_detail_map_transmission_mode,MOST_streaming - ENG122230-ENG142153-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-dynamic_icon,0 - ENG122230-ENG127501-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-fastlist_most,On - ENG122230-ENG122338-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_compression_mode,H264 - ENG122230-ENG122339-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_resolution,resolution_3 - ENG122230-ENG127005-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-navigation_map_transmission_mode,MOST_streaming - ENG122230-ENG122342-Dashboard_Display_Configuration-stationart,On For the Virtual Cockpit menu on the MIB: - IDE11524-ENG137043-Vehicle function list bap 2nd generation: expansion-display_configuration_0x45, Activated - IDE11524-ENG137044-Vehicle function list bap 2nd generation: expansion-display_configuration_0x45_msg_bus, Comfort data bus - ENG122227-ENG142087-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration, Activated - ENG122227-ENG142088-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_clamp_15_off, Not Activated - ENG122227-ENG142089-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_over_threshold_high, Activated - ENG122227-ENG142090-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_standstill, Not Activated - ENG122227-ENG142091-Car_Function_Adaptations_Gen2-menu_display_Display_Configuration_after_disclaimer, Not Activated Now restart the MIB. (hold power button until it reboots) You now have the normal dial VC: If you want to have the carbon look: 17 – instrument, adaptation: - IDE12467-Tubes illustration, Variant 3 - IDE02489-Display depiction, Variant 1 or 3 (can’t remember which one) If you want to change the end value of your speedometer because of reasons: 17 – instrument, adaptation: IDE13094-Tachometer end value. I used setting Variant 1 for 280kmph. Might be different for MPH. Trim Piece I needed I new trim piece which is now on order. As I understood the partnumber you need can be easily obtained. Note the partnumber on the white label of your old trim piece. In my case 3V0 857 053 N77. N77 is the colour code for my trim piece. To obtain the part nr for the new trim piece just add an ‘A’ after 053. So in my case: 3V0 857 053A N77 is the part nr for the new trim piece. There is also the possibility to fit new MFSW buttons with a VIEW button. - 3V0 919 719 E (manual) - 3V0 919 719 F (DSG) - 3V0 919 719 G (manual + heated) - 3V0 919 719 H (DSG + heated) I've been told that DSG versions work in manual cars and that heated versions work without heated wheels. I did not fit these buttons yet so I do not know if these part numbers are fully correct. If there are any omissions or errors please do tell. Also feel free to add more adaptations.

Condensation inside the light and/or any inoperative led's would mean a roadworthy test fail. I'd be lodging a warranty claim, for sure. At the very least it would be interesting to see how they attempt to wriggle out of it...

I have 235/45/19 tyres on original VRS Xtreme alloys (stock tyre size is 225/45/19) I figured an 18" was going to be as good as any space saver, but I *think* the lowest I can go for the front of the car is 17" anyway due to size of front caliper. So Skoda being VAG pretty much any VAG space saver in the right size will be ok. If you follow the rules for the sizes above that Carlston posted you should find one from a VW or Seat also as they will use the same part numbers. Audi use a different hub diameter so wouldn't fit generally. I considered getting a full size 18" spare, there would probably be space for this diameter wise but the width of the alloy I think would restrict the boot floor from closing properly, especially with the toolkit in.

I heard tonight on the news that it's reported that the PM is seriously considering delaying the ban on sales of ICE cars till 2035.

Every time it snows, the handbrake is given a thorough test 😉

Some dealers sell products that are not VW branded, whether they should be is a different matter, but some do seem to do so.

Fit the shim then. See if you do better than the guy in another post that couldn't.

Don't use them again. 🥺 https://www.google.com/search?q=servicingstop&rlz=1C1CHBF_en-GBGB917GB917&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#lrd=0x48761f25af3952bb:0x658d56d80387beb1,1,,,, Don't assume they took it to Audi Farnborough. Thanks. AG Falco

They will sell / use stuff with a VW /Audi logo on it made by whoever. They are not into reading Owners Manuals.

OK, they took the car to an Audi main agent in Farnborough . New oil filter fitted. I checked the air filter and it is new. The car looked like it had been driven through a field. Oil level is now higher than it was before the filter was fitted. I doubt whether half the stuff has been done but I have no proof. Thank goodness I marked the old oil filter. The garage will be getting a cracking review.

Unfortunately we need to keep on about this as many people don't realise the difference between "Full Service History" and what is actually required. Some service staff are helpful but many (most?) are woeful.

NO! NIET! NON! NEIN!...

So long as i get my rear wiper 😅

Thanks for that Breezy_Pete, as I'm heading towards my late 70s🤭 I can't see me getting another car and my mileage is low so the belt should last.

Just kerbed my RR black Trinity rim... Turned too tight (though I didn't have the impression of doing so) while driving out of a parking lot. 😬 Will have to wait for switching for winter wheels to restore it. 🙄

Photo must've been taken in another country, I can see blue sky!

Thank you W193, it's good to be welcomed here ! Until now, i have mainly driven diesels but have decided to buy a petrol this time. Will miss the clattter, smell and character of the oil burners but petrol will suit my driving as i slip into old age 😜 with shorter journeys. Is it wise to save for a MK4 ? The 1.4 TSI has appeal and i haven't discounted the 1L yet. I like the MK3 shape though and i'm open to a good one from 2015> I drove a friend's 19 plate Fabia 1L and i was impressed..........but wondered if the three pot would struggle with the weight of an Octavia. I guess i should test drive them all and decide. Any comments are welcome and i'll keep you posted with progress 👍

Message me with VIN.

That was Servicing to Manufacturers Guidelines, Recommendations or Schedules quite often before a car went back. Oddly many a Skoda, VW. SEAT or Audi Approved used car with a Warranty were not Serviced to those T&C,s yet had a FMDSH. A history of not all stuff done.

I'll give a call to my most closest one and see what they say. they might have it in stock Thank you for your help

Cant you be OCD but also insouciant and a risk taker? Or am I something else?

Yeah I don't use anything on the back of the pads either. I am going to take the wheels off tomorrow and clean the brakes with brake cleaner or try to work out if there is anything obvious.

They change anything to suit them. Licences, towing, weights etc etc. Self drive and convoys. Regardless of if the UK has the tech in place. Digital broadcasting and Mobile reception UK wide will be a starter. Truck stops / low carbon hubs will be a starter then getting the National Grid,s owners to have it fit for purpose. Maybe in a few decades then.

I wouldn't bet my house on it if I were you.

Well the car I ordered hasn't got the 360 system, nor is it 4x4 so theoretically shouldn't be a long delay! I'm joking of course but not going to bother chasing the dealer as I really don't think they have a clue. Delivery times remain a problem, relative was told her vw would be delivered this month but still no sign of a build date let alone the car itself.

^^^ Are they still putting those in the latest vehicles?

Yes, and well worth the money for the time it will save on your first couple of jobs using it.

Hello Pete, welcome to the forum. I'm not an EV owner, but I would suggest battery life/remaining capacity is more likely to be adversely affected by the way it's charged - I.e. always being charged to 100% Strongly recommend getting an independent check of battery condition on any 2nd hand EV.

Parts arrived and were super easy to mount. The foam stopper just had double sided tape and sits very securely. I couldn't find a cover for the entire battery on skoda-parts.com, but at least bought the missing cover for the negative terminal. Thanks for the help everyone, much obliged!

I can't find my last posting which detailed my trials and tribulations about doing the same as you (i.e., (paraphrasing) 'improving on OEM exhaust note without the drone'), but basically it's the perfect level now. From buying the car, my intention was always to improve as much as I could - so I went for a full Scorpion turbo-back system. Originally, I went 'non-resonated' which was a bad idea - it was ridiculously loud with a heavy drone at all ranges, mainly due to empty rear boot space and lack of soundproofing. I contacted Scorpion to get the centre resonator and got it fitted a few months' later, and it solved all problems with drone and lowered the sound to a perfect level. Having had the car 6 years and the current exhaust setup for 4.5 years, I can honestly say it's one of the best modifications (aside from suspension & remap). It's loud enough on start-up to turn heads (if you're into that), those in-the-know will recognise it's modified at lower speeds, and under heavier acceleration you definitely know about it. Whilst it does increase NVH a little, I'd say it's comfortably within expectations of a modified system - not intrusive or droney, but perfect for a petrol-head to enjoy. One caveat - turbo-back vs. cat-back - the latter setup won't have the 3" downpipe and sports cat which is less restrictive and (marginally, under heavier load) louder. But in which case, cat-back might be perfect for your needs.

5E0035045D is MIB1 unit, MIB1 units do NOT support CarPlay neither Android Auto. You need to replace glove box unit with MIB2 - either Bolero, Amundsen or Columbus.

These r not standard or upgrade for Superb, let alone any other Skoda models, hence it's not right to put the details on that post. It's something that I made up myself. I bought slim 2.7mm LED strips from AliExpress, cut them into 12mm length, soldered the wiring & plugs, then stuck them to a grove inside the door pocket, along the top edge. I spliced into the door warning lights for power. It involves removing the door cards, so u can drill a tiny 3mm hole in the corner of the door pocket.

They are carbide inserts for lathe tools or CNC machine tooling, car was probably owned by a machinist.

If the car drives OK then it drives OK. I was just pointing out if there was to be a future expense that is what it could be with a DQ200 DSG. You can not buy a car and then get your nickers in a twist over every potential issue. Even brand new cars can have faults come time.

I got it popped back in and everything seems to be working :)

We had some pretty dense mist and a lovely sunset on the way home earlier - so pleased we took the scenic route 👍

I think the broken-off hose barb (smaller) part will just be inside the small hose.

06K 103 485 D last revision of this cap, I think. With D in the end. Installed it on 2.0TDI on Octy Mk3 and Golf Mk7. No leaks so far. Tip: install oil cap with dry contact area (rubber vs plastic inlet tube).

I always insist on a print out when I go and pay and collect the car. I will never remember 12 months later what was and wasn't done, and keeping a paper copy is the only free way to find out. To be honest, and may be I am old fashioned, but I prefer a stamped maintenance book, not some digital record somewhere that I cannot access.

Last update from my side, hopefully I got my car back, no more noises from the diff or suspension, and no ESP lights on the dash anymore. Recap: * The tapered roller bearing in the diff was worn out. The rest of the bearings had no signs of wear. * I believe that each bearing in the diff has its part number, so if somebody else is in this situation, remove it first and check your P/N. Mine was LM503349. * The AWD module( 0CQ 907 554 H ) had issues with its sealing which caused water to enter inside partially damage it. Thankfully was repaired by electronics workshop and sealed back with new durable silicon. * While the shop was soldering my module, I called the local Skoda dealer for the price of a new one and they said it's superseded by new version with OEM number 0CQ 907 554 J. (I won't share the price they gave me, because it's not correct, you can google the part number and see the prices around you) * During the initial alignment, 6 of the alignment bolts in rear were left loose.. which means all of them(not sure how this could happen). This caused metal suspension noises. * All the bolts are tight now, diff and its control module are on the car and everything seems to be fine now - no noises or errors from the AWD module in VCDS.

I think it may be push in then twist to remove it. Seem to recall doing that on my Octavia. You don't say how old your nephew is but my grandson is 17 and he's gone from a bright young lad to a halfwit in no time at all 🤣

Nearly, not pin 6 though.