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I would check the oil level with the dipstick at least once a month rather than wait 5 months for a warning message coming up.

Where was the level on the dipstick before and after this top-up? It sounds as though you may never have looked at the dipstick?

1 pump does the front and rear by spinning in opposite directions. If its coming from both directions the pump is faulty. The pump cant spin both ways at once so its one of the small valves in the pump that is faulty.

I gave / left the brand new tyres to the fitter to sell or give away. Probably went with the scrap tyres. I would not want my worst enemy taking their nearest and dearest on the crap that was on the MINI. I have the Primacy 4 from 2020 sitting and could put them on rims and use in summer but they were bl00dy dangerous on the Corsa in the wet.

i have the same tdi engine and same year car, registered april 2022, so a good comparision i've just done a diy oil and filter change 3 days agp at 9000 miles ; [ around 14500km ] oil level had dropped to close to the min level on the dipstick , i never had to top up over the 9000 miles done. i've had vw tdi engine cars since they first came out , [probably 30 years or so ago] and i find they can loose a little bit of oil when new but it then settles down to almost zero after you put a few miles on them. keep your eye on things, but you might find that things will settle down after a few more miles the one thing i have noticed with the latest new tdi evo engines, is that they feel lively right from new, previous tdi engines always needed to do around 8000 - 10000 miles before they loosened off but that is not the case with these new engines

It'd definitely be best to keep an eye on the dipstick at regular intervals and not trust that the dealership has done the job properly (or at all....) Mine is a '21 2.0 TDi Combi with 50,000km and has never needed a topup between services. The oil level drops slightly between services but that's it. Engines and usage differ so it's not really a straight comparison but that's my experience. Skoda have a fairly generous window for oil consumption but it'd be a good idea to start logging consumption so that you know if there's an issue or not. It'll also help to bolster your case if you decide to make a warranty claim. Make sure that your top up oil meets the required spec and keep the receipts. As a matter of interest, what way do you use the car? Short trips, urban usage or rural driving?

Exactly this ^^

A nice and steady progression from the current model, no point in changing too much, if you have a winning product, why risk it all on complete departure from what is serving the brand well already?

Zimmermann has confirmed it's genuine and they use multiple sidewall marking techniques in the production process.

Solved!!!!!! Hope this helps somebody in the future. Always go with your instinct! I had the new starter in and tried to crank but still no start. When I had both starters off the vehicle I bench tested them. I didn't put 12V to the connector plug. Just bridged to the other large terminal and it only span the motor. I thought this might have been a new faulty unit not realising that the solenoid is only going to work if you connect a feed to the connector plug. Seems obvious I know to some. Anyway, with both the starters off I at least inspected both to ensure they were the same and curiosity made me think the pin inside the new starter was further inside the plug housing than the old unit but proceeded to fit it anyway. FItted and still no crank. I wasn't sure the plug was making contact with the new starter pin so this morning I made a short cable to go between pin and plug. Had multimeter on to check voltage when turning key and boom, fired up perfectly. The new starter plug pin was infact further inside the plug housing and not making contact with the old wiring loom connector plug. So a slight modification to the loom plug and everything is fine once again! Thanks for the help and advice! again hope this helps someone in the future.

I will chose pressures and treads that grip regardless of economy over higher pressures, ECO tyres which achieve better mpg with less grip so friction / traction. There are some real crap tyres fitted as standard.

Just read on my phone an article from THE SUN so not really a newspaper. EV Drivers risk £100 fines. The story, less range, blocking roads. How to look after the car, garage, cover and all this jazz. So the SUN has warned us, don't be a Rodney. I have 600 plus miles to do this next 4 days, I will try not to hold up anyone by rolling to a dead stop on a carriageway.

Good luck on your warranty quest, if they can replicate the fault easily I think you are golden, hopefully the issue comes back straight away when you plug the pump back in again.

The temperatures sound spot on, if it carries on behaving then reconnect the connector and do the same live data test on the hills, hopefully that will definitively confirm the sleeve is sticking. Of course that wont be definitive for the Skoda "how can we jerk around this customer" warranty repair, they will want to charge you a silly price for diagnostics (plugging in a fault code reader) which will show nothing and be pointless compared to the real diagnostics that you have done but be enough for them to keep your money and refuse the warranty claim as "o fault found" Cynical, - moi? 😂

Ignore what the dash gauge says, it is programmed to read 90 at a real 77 and still read 90 at 117 so it’s readings are not to be followed.

After seeing so many people doing it the wrong way, I decided to make my own video

Title says it all. I am guilty of Man Looking quite often but I have had 2 emails from admin so far suggesting I could use the button to assist everyone but I can't see it. Thanks

Slightly non PC nickname for slow 3 pin plug wall socket charger

Worth trying Skoda customer services for more detail explaining the concerns? I'd never have questioned the fuel flap detail at those figures.

Hello Andrew, welcome to the forum. Only able to answer 1 of your questions - the VRS does have the independent rear suspension.

Yes, @EnterName. I have checked the oil level before and after the top-up. Before the top-up, the level was in the region c in the diagram @Rooted sent above. After it was on the region b.

I tend to keep my PHEV charged as much as possible so to avoid using petrol. Sometimes I have 0 miles on the battery in morning and it will run the engine to heat up and fuel economy suffers. For short hops around Glasgow 30mpg isn't uncommon but if it's cold like now with heating, lights on and I'm sitting at traffic lights, it can fall around the low 20s for mpg and sometimes worse if it's stationary traffic. The 70mpg is amazing from the diesel tbh. When I had the diesel Fabia I struggled to get anywhere near that at any time - perhaps only a sensible cruise on the motorway. I had to drive from Haymarket once to near the City Council offices at rush hour and got 14mpg in the petrol Karoq!

Sounds like you have charging schedule set. % of minimum charge is how much car will charge regardless schedule, but it will stop at this state of charge and will wait for scheduled departure time or off-peak time to continue charging till full.

Thank you very much for your input. Mostly urban usage with the occasional short trip.

👍 thanks

An 8 armed sex addict?

I agree but my short journey to Tesco is from Bonnyrigg to the Tesco at Eskbank. That's downhill and I got nearly 70mpg in my old diesel. The hybrid, if the battery is at 0 miles, gets about 20mpg. This morning the battery was at 3 miles and it was reading 300mpg most of the way until the engine kicked in. Sport mode seems to charge the battery more than normal mode.

I prefer an hatch/estate to an suv for the length from tailgate door to bottom of back seat. I want my space on the floor not in the air. i Cannot find an suv that gives almost 4ft with the back seats up like the Mondeo does (1175mm)

Thanks for the input, guys! Yes, I was gullible enough when I collected the car from service at the dealership they put in the correct quantity of oil and never checked the dipstick. I will not do that mistake again.

Yep. "EV tyres" are pretty much efficiency touring tyres turned up to 11. Great for motorways in good weather, not so great in cold and wet. I've fitted Mitch CC2 on the Leaf now. It'll be our snow car, not going far when snowing anyway. So far feels great to drive in the downpour. I'll doing similar when MY factory tyre reach end of life. Safety over efficiency. Do you store those tyres from the factory? or sell it on as used?

Michelin Primacy 4 as fitted to many EV,s / PHEV,s to help with range are really quite inappropriate for some weather conditions. As are many tyres OEM on vehicles as they are sold in the UK. Tens of thousands or millions will get around on the tyres cars come fitted with pretty well but there are EV & PHEV drivers that should be looking at the tyres the cars are wearing, maybe cars under 3 years old that have not had a MOT examiner or anyone else casting an eye over them to see just how treads are looking. I have seen some EV,s about that i would not want to be taking out in heavy rain, frosts or snow. These often being the more expensive EV,s on the biggest / widest tyres. The MINI Electric was delivered on these. (You can opt for Winter Tyres with a Factory Build but really the sales people knew nothing about that and said they had never been asked or noticed this.) Watching a video of the New Mini Cooper Electrics the presenter said they come on 225 tyres (18",)now and not just 205's.(,17",). Likely there will be options of 17 or 16 inch rims and all season or winter tyres. But cars ordered for stock and demonstrators will be on Summer bias tyres.

@Heppie89was it delivered on a transporter. They are on Variable / flexible servicing so 18,000-20,000 miles /24 months unless changed maybe because of a service plan to fixed so 9,400 miles / 372 days. Maybe because the lease company wants that. I think your car is in Transit mode. The lease company or the supplying dealer do just need to arrange that at no inconvenience to you it is set for the cars Service Records. Local dealership or someone coming out to the car.

Rolling resistance is an element worth considering and us EV owners are listening out for better ie tyres which absorb less power ie sometimes called hysteresis loss ie the flexing of the tyres, it is what warms it up and as EVs are on average 10 or 15%. A bunch of UK ex military guys ran a Renault Zoe ZE50 for 424 miles on a single charge round Thuxton and then used some low hysteresis tyres ENSO tyres. Zoe drove over 10% farther. Yes more of an effect on city driving speeds that motorway speeds of course. Since EVs spend so little of energy for the car and for servicing tyres is the one place costs are an even more significant place to review for EVs than ICE vehicles. I like to change tyres at around the 3mm tread depth, one previous employer wanted to run the tyre down to 2 mm, was not happy with that situation. But what tyres to get ? Always gravitate to Michelins but torn with their EV tyre which was OE, Michelin Primacy is mostly OK but I think there is better out there now. https://www.renault.co.uk/renault-news/renault-zoe-e-tech-covers-475-miles-on-a-single-charge.html

Some very interesting info on petrol prices there. Australian petrol does not bear as high a Government tax burden as UK petrol nor is it refined to the low EU sulphur levels (will change soon) so our overall prices are not surprisingly considerably lower than yours. However.... when you compare the price of our 95 Ron against 98 Ron there is about 7 cents difference between the two which is about 4 pence. Assuming similar detergents and volatiles are added by Shell/BP/Mobil as in the UK then it seems that your local 10p difference is pure price gouging as UK tax would be pretty much the same on both? Our 140ppm sulphur allowed 91Ron is about 15 cents cheaper than currently mandated 50ppm 95Ron. E10 91Ron (if it actually has 10% ethanol, can be as high as 94RON but they no longer claim this higher RON due to well publicised variations of ethanol added) is a couple of cents cheaper, and E85 (105RON) is available but rare and you need a heavily modified engine to run it.

I've eventually figured it out. There's a line under lane assist option that says 'dynamic lane assist' or something like that. But it's just on or off - no variability option so I must have a different version of the mk3

High resistance can indicate an open circuit so possibly just a bad connection that you have cured by taking things apart and re-installing?

So bit of a peculiar one… I checked the resistance of the fuel sender which was fine. Next I removed the sill covers and checked for visual damage to the wiring - all fine. I took out the instrument cluster to check continuity on the wires from the sender to the cluster - which was all good. After admitting defeat and putting everything back together, I turned on the ignition and the fuel gauge decided to work! I must have disrupted something somewhere which has kicked it back into life - fingers crossed it stays that way.

Probably more likely to be a sticking shroud in the water pump.

Winterwheels got mounted today along with the rubbercarpets inside. Washed and waxed the car, polished the rims because they where a bit scratched and finished it off with paint protection and tireshine.

Hi all, I was wondering if anyone had experience or knowledge of how to disable the headlight washer function? (Ideally in software, I have an OBDeleven dongle) Personally, I would rather not have the headlight washers as it ruins my perfectly clean and freshly washed car… spraying water all over the bonnet. Cheers, Julius 👍

Fitted a "Plug & Play" reversing camera. What a PITA that was Either it's my ham fists or just bad luck but it did not quite go to plan or, at least the plan I had envisioned. I was alerted to this kit by 35north who posted earlier on this thread that he had fitted a one from Ali Express £33.22 + Tax = £42.26. Seemed a bit of a bargain at that price so why not. It didn't start well because I ordered the wrong kit (C model instead of A model) so I had to re-order the correct one (I will be putting the unused C model kit up for grabs for the price of the postage if anyone wants it - problem is I don't know what VAG car the camera fits!). Removed all the tailgate internal panels with trim tools but still managed to break two of the clips - new ones on order via Amazon & yet to arrive. Removed the tailgate latch which was a PITA to get access to & landed up breaking 3 of the tabs in the process. Online videos of this procedure make it look like a breeze using just your fingers. I can assure you it's not & I needed flat blade angled trim tools. Installed new camera latch which I have to say was a bit or a loose fit. Found some pipe foam insulation & cut a piece to wedge between the latch & inside of the tailgate to take up the slack. Worked OK & no one will ever see it. Plugged in the camera cable & ran it loose to the front of the car to test it before removing any more trim . Removed the Head unit from glove box & installed interface cable & plugged in the camera cable. Turned on ignition, started car & selected reverse - nothing showing on infotainment screen other than normal Park Pilot screen. Damn. Check all connections & unplugged & re-connected camera cable at both ends - success. I somehow managed to break the locking tab on the multi pin latching mechanism so a cable tie was added to make sure it didn't come loose once back in the dash. I'm thinking that 2016 plastic parts are starting to degrade a bit. Well that's my story anyway. 😏 Disconnected camera from Head units & started feeding the cable from the boot forward. At this point I broke out my cable fishing rods, coathangers & other cable drawing devices. The LH tailgate cable gater (passenger side) is fairly full of wiring already. RH gater has more space but not sure if the camera cable has enough length to run down the drivers side & then across the dashboard to the glove box. LH / passenger side it is then. WD40 in the L/H cable gater made it fairly easy to get the cable through & fished down the rear C pillar. Then attached cable to my long fibreglass cable rods. Went inside the roof lining at the C pillar & much to my surprise found the end of it first time above the passenger door headlining. Fished the cable down the A pillar trim & into the removable panel to the left of the glove box. Fished the cable through to the rear of the glovebox, plugged it into the new wiring loom insert (yellow end in above picture) & tested it - all OK. Then I taped up the camera cable joints at both end to prevent them coming loose. Then came the most frustrating bit. After fitting the extra wiring loom insert supplied with the kit the glove box head unit did not want to go back into its housing. It kept getting stuck halfway in. Much swearing & contortion needed as I tried to pull the now longer bunch of main cable loom at the rear of the head unit to one side via a tiny opening above the pollen filter & the dropped glove box door. Nothing doing so there was only one thing for it & that was to remove the glove box. Removed the glove box light & upgraded it with an LED while I had it out. Popped the passenger airbag switch out but for love nor money I couldn't get the wire plug out of the back of it!! 5/6 screws later & more skinned knuckles the glovebox comes free which gives me the space to push the head unit all the way in & dress the jungle of wiring at the rear into the available space. Offer up the glove box & hold in place with a length of wood while & get some screws in - you need 4 pairs of hands for some of this stuff!! After a bit of "to me, to you" & more swearing having dropped yet another screw in the congested passenger footwell it finally went into place. Reattached the now much brighter glove box light assembly & put all my junk back in the glove box. Done. Test the camera again - all good except the picture is looking a bit dark. Ahha, remove the protective plastic film from the camera lens - much better. This little lot took place over two half days dodging rain showers outside on my drive. I still have to put the lower tailgate trim back on but can't do that until the new clips arrive tomorrow. I'm not sure if my experience is the norm for this sort of thing but it did feel like a major mission & it took far longer than even I had envisioned. The upside is that the camera kit was only £84 which includes the cost of the wrong kit I ordered so, not too bad all things considered. I wonder what the option cost was to have one factory fitted back in 2016? I found the website below that wants to charge £650 for retrofitting one to a Superb😖 https://www.avrmobiles.co.uk/product/skoda-superb-retrofit-factory-style-reversing-camera/ This makes my £84 look like a massive win & worth all the hassle & skinned knuckles. My car now needs a damn good wash inside & out but at long last I now have a reversing camera that my L&K should have been fitted with as standard back in 2016.

Brilliant, thank you everyone. Yes, it's a 2017 outdoor (one of the last ones off the boat ! mine from new) I haven't done anything as yet. The next morning it was all working again, BUT it's dropped out a couple of times since. None of the side buttons will work (left or right side), and the touchscreen doesn't work. The unit is "stuck" on wherever it was when it "dropped out". Makes me think this is a dry joint somewhere. I've found a link for a repair firm but not done anything about it as yet. At £1500 from Skoda the cost of a replacement is prohibitive to say the least ! As a person whose always had Hondas it's very disappointing after only 6 years (30K miles) but nothing lasts forever, especially these days !

Just an update to this. I've changed Octavias since this issue began and it does it on the new car as well, again on cold or damp mornings. It goes away with repeated pumpings of the clutch pedal as it did on the older car. Since the older car is still on its original clutch after 230k miles I'll assume it's a harmless, although annoying, "feature" of the Octavia clutch on either petrol or diesel models. As they say at the dealers "they all do that sir".

I really wouldn't be surprised if that's true. I'd guess those who designed the product have communicated with those who sell it. They were doing these £25 kind of offers a few years ago in the Black Friday sale - I was all set to take it up last year but it worked out at £29. ( I'd decided by then I wasn't keeping that car ). Can't speak about other VWFS products but the Skoda only ever covered servicing, not maintenance. Never quite sure why people get upset simply because they've assumed. To give Skoda some credit, it's clearly stated under the 'what is and what's not included' section, so there's no excuse for people not knowing this. It's always amused me VWFS charge different prices over their four 'mainstream' brands for exactly the same product. I get why an Audi badge adds many thousands more than a Skoda badge, but whe it comes to servicing say a 1.5tsi, in an Audi is no different from that of a SEAT ( they use the same badged parts! ) but we're conditioned in to thinking one service is better than the other. Perhaps Audi mechanics use more expensive aftershave.

From the first time I ever had the misfortune to use a tyre fitting place some 45 years ago it has been my experience that mechanics and tyre fitters inflate all tyres to 30 psi because they can't be ar5ed to look up individual figures, back then that may have been a reasonable average and not unsafe, with todays stupid rim sizes and rubber band tyres it is dangerously underinflated for most vehicles. Given that most of the spotty youths in Kwik-fit were not born back then, nor their parents either I'm surprised that the old figure is still being passed on and accepted unthinkingly (well not the latter actually!) it should be something like 2.5 bar these days, I know they should not use a general figure and inflate the tyres correctly for the vehicle but that ain't gonna happen in my lifetime!

It only takes one piece of online info to be assumed correct for others to copy it. It's very easy to put stuff online.

FYI: I managed to find the fault! It was the optocoupler which needed some cleaning

FYI, I found ALL the manuals there in PDF (300MB+). Just a bit difficult to find. Go to the "Individual Vehicle Information" -> "Repair information" and "Training Items" menus and you can download lots and lots of stuff. Here is what I found so far: 12/04/2020 07:42 AM 27,033,782 A8_Octavia_OwnersManual.pdf 01/20/2021 10:41 AM 8,307,616 D4B805208DB-Propshaft_and_rear_final_drive.pdf 01/20/2021 10:41 AM 6,308,565 D4B8064A3AF-Paint_-_general_information.pdf 01/20/2021 10:38 AM 2,166,356 D4B80655686-Air_conditioning_system_with_refrigerant_R1234yf.pdf 01/20/2021 10:41 AM 659,007 D4B80828146-Trailer_operation_as_of_2016.pdf 01/20/2021 10:40 AM 13,526,413 D4B8090B918-Fuel_system_-_Petrol_engines.pdf 01/20/2021 10:45 AM 13,638,469 D4B809CDE79-Maintenance.pdf 01/20/2021 10:39 AM 26,445,044 D4B809D336C-Body_Repairs.pdf 01/20/2021 10:40 AM 27,891,911 D4B80A03A21-Chassis__axles__steering.pdf 01/20/2021 10:38 AM 12,976,337 D4B80A03DD0-6-speed_dual_clutch_gearbox_0DD_(Hybrid).pdf 01/20/2021 10:39 AM 2,789,440 D4B80A03FD8-Auxiliary_heating.pdf 01/20/2021 10:39 AM 10,851,238 D4B80A03FE8-Brake_systems.pdf 01/20/2021 10:41 AM 2,220,073 D4B80A0402C-Wheels__Tyres.pdf 01/20/2021 10:41 AM 17,663,828 D4B80A04119-Paint_-_vehicle-specific_information.pdf 01/20/2021 10:39 AM 5,498,491 D4B80A04129-Communication.pdf 01/20/2021 10:41 AM 26,318,202 D4B80A04200-General_body_repairs__interior.pdf 01/20/2021 10:38 AM 12,759,446 D4B80A0424F-Heating__Air_conditioning.pdf 01/20/2021 10:40 AM 24,347,989 D4B80A042DD-Electrical_system.pdf 01/20/2021 10:41 AM 27,061,315 D4B80A043BE-General_body_repairs__exterior.pdf 01/20/2021 10:36 AM 47,398,736 D4B80A956A1-1_0_70__81_kW_TSI_EVO_Engine.pdf 01/20/2021 10:44 AM 4,341,752 S0020026120-Satellite_navigation_systems_in_Skoda_vehicles.pdf 01/20/2021 10:43 AM 1,522,202 S0020027720-Nr__77__Geometry.pdf 01/20/2021 10:43 AM 1,621,540 S0020027820-Nr__78__Pasive_safety.pdf 01/20/2021 10:43 AM 833,745 S0020027920-Nr__79__Auxiliary_heater.pdf 01/20/2021 10:43 AM 1,346,468 S0020028120-Nr__81__Bluetooth_in_SKODA_cars.pdf 01/20/2021 10:43 AM 1,472,380 S0020028220-Nr__82__Sensors_in_Skoda_vehicles_-_Engine.pdf 01/20/2021 10:43 AM 1,169,015 S0020028520-Nr__85__System_KESSY_in_SKODA_cars.pdf 01/20/2021 10:43 AM 3,106,670 S0020028620-Nr__86__System_START-STOP_in_SKODA_cars.pdf 01/20/2021 10:43 AM 1,737,121 S0020028720-Nr__87__Immobiliser_in_Skoda_vehicles.pdf 01/20/2021 10:43 AM 4,988,471 S0020028820-Nr__88__Brake_and_stabilisation_systems.pdf 01/20/2021 10:43 AM 2,545,793 S0020028920-Nr__89__Sensors_and_senders_in_Skoda_vehicles_-_Safety_and_Convenience.pdf 01/20/2021 10:44 AM 2,473,199 S0020035320-SkodaOctavia__Presentation_of_the_vehicle.pdf 01/20/2021 10:44 AM 2,250,552 S0020035420-SkodaOctavia__Electrical_Components.pdf 01/20/2021 10:44 AM 2,364,256 S0020035820-SkodaOctavia__Chassis_and_electromechanical_power-assisted_steering.pdf 01/20/2021 10:44 AM 4,933,771 S0020037420-SKODA_OCTAVIA.pdf 01/20/2021 10:44 AM 1,125,237 S0020037620-OCTAVIA_Convenience_electronic_system.pdf 01/20/2021 10:44 AM 904,339 S0020038320-OCTAVIA__CAN_databus.pdf 01/20/2021 10:44 AM 1,918,809 S0020038420-OCTAVIA_-_CLIMATRONIC.pdf 01/20/2021 10:44 AM 2,939,799 S0020038720-OCTAVIA_-_ESP.pdf 01/20/2021 10:44 AM 1,284,623 S0020039020-OCTAVIA_-_Radio_navigation.pdf 01/20/2021 10:42 AM 2,481,123 S0020039820-Euro-On-Board-Diagnosis.pdf 01/20/2021 10:42 AM 3,508,735 S0020040020-6-Speed_manual_gearbox_02M.pdf 01/20/2021 10:42 AM 1,964,004 S0020040220-Exhaust_emission.pdf 01/20/2021 10:42 AM 1,968,630 S0020040320-Extended_maintenance_interval.pdf 01/20/2021 10:39 AM 1,498,578 S0051870020-Body_Repairs__General_Body_Repairs.pdf 01/20/2021 10:40 AM 2,923,534 S0051880020-Electrical_System_-_general_notes.pdf 01/20/2021 10:46 AM 81,030,927 S0067420020-Basic_equipment__(K8B)__From_November_2019.pdf