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Hi, After a long time looking for some nice VAG 19" alloys, I finally found a good deal on a set of Audi RSQ3 wheels. Specs are 8,5 x 19 ET36 wrapped with 255/40 R19 tyres. My car was originally fitted with Pegasus Alloys, which are 8x18 ET44. I recon tyres are now too big, I'll test them some time and I will finally fit 245/40 R19 once they're over. Car feels now beautifully planted, as it is combined with a set of Bilstein B6 with OEM springs. The car looks awesome now, a bit too high, but I don't want to lower it for daily use reasons. It now sits as if it had 14,4mm spacers all around. Let me share with you some pics of the before vs. after.

I personally would never use the One Touch Apps - way more risky and hard to undo when something goes wrong.

Thanks. Salesman has said yes it will tow, up to 2,200kg. I have it in writing, although no picture of the VIN plate. Re the chain on the engine - I opted for a five yr 100k warranty so hoping that’ll cover any issues. Having given it some thought re the tow bar - we no longer tow a caravan - so the towbar would be used for occasional garden trailer duty - and carrying a bike rack. However it may be that we could find a roof rack which will carry four bikes in the event of any shenanigans with the towbar rating.

Clumber Park earlier..................

Just fitted some Audi RSQ3 wheels (8,5x19 ET36).

Hi Graham, not three bad ta. Feverish hot night, or first half of. Hoping that's my body seeing it off.

I vame across this 35 year old stunner whilst out and about yesterday 👌

Yeah my rear does my head in. Slams on the brakes when I’m reversing out of my steep driveway.

But it is now mandatory so we have to switch it off every time we start the car. Or put up with the nudges

I think this denotes that towing may be ok but not sure:

Thanks for your advice @TheClientand @Rooted. I simply replaced all spark plugs and coil packs, and then the problem was gone! (I did a type above, then car had been running close to 30,000 km since the last spark plug replacement and not 3,000 that I incorrectly wrote above. So it was about time to replace them.) Cheers

Was going to be my next question if you found what I thought you might. Probably got a little bypass relay thing somewhere in the boot area which has been miswired or just scruffily (shortily?) wired. If you find such a thing, look for stray wire strands, or just rip it out and tape up all loose wires for now. Sad thing is, I believe a 2007 Roomy may well be perfectly happy with towbar wiring directly fed from the existing bulb wires without such a relay thing. Will check this out for you later, but I think factory towbar wiring just parallels off. There's a cute 10-second coding job you can do with VCDS (lite) to tell the 'vehicle voltage control unit' there's a towbar socket wired in, after which you'll get an extra visual indication on the dash when connected and indicating (this legally substitutes for the beep function of the bypass relay things). 7-pin or 13-pin towbar socket? I imagine it's a 7. Glowplug light may well be a result of same issue. Don't panic. 🙂

Welcome and happy driving! My mods: - front Skoda symbol black - front VRS badge black/red - black exhaust tips - spacers 12mm front, 15mm rear - trunk lights swapped for LEDs - glove compartment light swapped for LED - sound deadening both front doors and trunk - lane assist changed to remember last setting - switched on rear DRL

Found another!

I think you will struggle on that mission unless you can trace the first owner and they have a good memory. That exact tyre is extremely unlikely to be amongst its manufacturer's current products too. Your location will have some bearing on what is a good current alternative.

I have the factory towbar on mine - its an awesome towcar, best I have ever had, so I really hope yours is plated appropriately. The EA888 engines are chain driven, but just in case you think you have saved money on cambelt changes, they are really prone to the waterpump/manifold leaking on the front of the engine and its about a £6-800 job. Mine went at 5 years and 33k miles. Despite that I think you'll love it. Mine is 5 years old now and there is basically nothing on the market that I want to replace it with.

Sorry to scoff, but it seems nuts to me that a 4x4 280 might not be suitable for towing 🙄 Hope it transpires that it can 👍 G

The Tech @ApertureSthat replied to your last post / thread is probably the person that knows best what is what.

Well that is disappointing, to say the least, given Osram claims - 220% more of this, and 5,000 more metres of that! I’ll just hang on to the OE bulbs ‘til they’ve had it, as forking-out £150 for an early zero, to a potentially mediocre improvement, is a daft idea.

Just make sure your car is unloaded and preferably on level ground too, otherwise you'll have a wonky beam that doesn't align. It's good if you can mark on a wall where the beam should be.

Just to add - I’ve just ordered a set of Canopus 19inch wheels to go on it as I dislike the standard L&K rims ‘Propus Aero’. I’m guessing taking one of the 19s with me to use as a spare is a nonsense given the different sizing…

There are those that said it has not messed the Haldex, just disable CC / ACC. That is fair enough. Others posted about the ABS / ESP issue with the Spare / Space Saver that came with the car and applying the brakes. Someone said the car was trying to kill them. But i think there were cars with AWD and the wrong space saver handed over to people. Those that have experience of them will know, & @Carlstonwill know which and what is what.

This is from the Driver's Manual of a 2011 build car (such as mine built end of 2011 and first registered in March 2012). Not mentioned in the manual for 2012 build cars. Indicator light in the driver's door After locking the vehicle, the warning light flashes for around 2 seconds in quick succession, afterwards it begins to flash evenly at longer intervals. If the vehicle is locked and the safe securing system is not operating, the indicator light in the driver door flashes for about 2 seconds fast, goes out and starts to flash evenly at longer intervals after about 30 seconds. If the indicator light first of all flashes fast for about 2 seconds, afterwards lights up for about 30 seconds and then flashes slowly, there is a fault in the system of the central locking or the interior monitor. Visit a specialist garage to obtain assistance.

The image is very similar to the one I have securing my space saver wheel .

That was about the time that they made some of the best cars around, good solid engineering.

But there is no recommendation or limit. If I remember correctly, Golf 7r had counter and limit and you were not able to use LC anymore.

Sorry different Swing to mine. Have you tried to post in the Fabia II section? Thanks. AG Falco.

Welcome, enjoy the new purchase Where in bonnie do you hail? Im central, just around Glasgow Mods for now ST XA coilovers Racingline Airbox with induction Racingline TIP Racingline Silicone induction pipe Inovit 19" wheels (not fitted yet)

@HJH93Welcome. No need for the economy / fuel consumption to be shocking. Well serviced, plugs and a clean air filter, running E5 Super Unleaded and at NSL,s they can do over 50 mpg. Not hanging about between 35-45 mpg, and just about town, cold starts and short journeys 20-35 mpg. A stage 1 map will not harm economy if you drive the same speeds as you do without a remap, it might even reduce fuel use, but you seem to think the economy is shocking. ? How many MPG do you get, or how far can 45 litres take you? The last post in the thread was a member with a Stage 1 map & getting what others might get as well for fuel use. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/338015-fabia-vrs-mk2-mpg/page/2

+1 for Mahle/Knecht. As for diesel mk3 Octy, OE engine oil filter was Hengst- but Mahle/Knecht have best central sealing.

Hi, Paddle shift extensions Soundproofing in boot and under back seat OBDII to silence fake engine noise

what a nightmare to replace these bulbs...took me 3 hours .The metal clips that secures the bulb are insanely stupid.

+1 to wat @numskull said above. my front assist won't brake immediately, but if don't react with a couple of seconds, it will hit the brakes. my rear cross traffic alert on the other hand is trigger happy and will hit the brakes if a bird flies anywhere in the rear radar vicinity!!

@numskull - if u can fabricate a flap opening in ur wheel arch liner - that would b ideal long term. here is wat they look like when removed. this is the view behind the headlight, with the wheel arch liner removed.

I'd just go for something mid-range like Falkens or something. In my experience they've been pretty decent, especially for the price. It doesn't require hours of research either. Up to you though.

Not a single reboot since I upgraded it in July. No SOS pop-pops either since the carrier decommissioned their 3G network. Knock on wood...

You won't be able to buy new twenty-year old tyres. Just go to the tyre fitters and get whatever they recommend. Simples.

So essentially we’re probably limited to around 120kW, but for occasional stop off it should give a decent charge in 30 minutes. When the do support 800v, we would be on an 15 minute charge to compete with ionity etc. I do agree i just need the silly money vendors with 350kW chargers to feel the competition and get back down to sub 50p and ideally even lower. It is a shame that Tesla have made some interior design choices I just couldn’t live with (touchscreen and lack of stalks now)

The answer to your question( with the underlined part replaced by "standard tyres") is yes, that is exactly what I have done for 47 years and in doing so learned to drive according to the conditions. I bought some winter wheels and tyres when I was in the Somme because people died in their vehicles on main roads only a couple of kms between towns during the snowstorm of 2007 (I think), your chances of getting a breakdown recovery outside of hours are virtually zero even in normal conditions, I was pretty much autonomous in all ways having survival gear in the car (needed once!) so winter tyres were a logical step. They may have been good in snow but we never got any, what I do know is that they were appalling dangerous ditchfinders whenever there was rain, so dangerous that I removed them and since then have kept the winter wheels on standby ready to change them if snow is expected. I didn't bring them down here but a set of new VAG steel wheels with new winter tyres came up very cheaply (€100) and I bought them to extend the time before I have to replace my current standard tyres now down to the TWIs. I will fit them when the average temps fall to 10°C but only to see if the recieved wisdom about that figure is actually correct, because I know darn well that there is barely any reduction in grip on my standard tyres, if they are noticeably better at that temp and not dangerous in the wet then they will stay on till spring, if not they are coming off.

I have the C of C for my MINI Electric & it is for 205/45 R 17 W 88 on 7,0 J x 17 ET54 the car came with. The cars limit is 94 mph with up to 168 mph (max) tyres. The thing is the tyres they came with were Goodyear Eagle F1 tyres which were rubbish in the slights of a damp surface even at UK NSL of 60 mph.

The data (size, ET etc) is usually on the rim, but on the inside, you might be able to photograph it by holding camera under car, although might need to move car slightly until info rotates to bottom, not in wheelarch https://www.skoda.co.uk/_doc/639a0118-4da5-446b-a786-86e1f789b57b This Skoda rim catalogue has lot of size data, can order them from parts Dept, or get rims from other retailers. Then just source the tyres on internet.

Thanks G32 turbo I have spent ages trying various solutions recommended on the internet. Cleared out all other cars, emptied memory and cache, even deleted AA and reinstalled it. Unfortunately none of it has worked. Once in a blue moon it connects perfectly wirelessly and doesn't drop out. Works fine with a usb cable, so I am reluctantly using this. When I collected the car from the dealer they tried to set it up for me, then got their IT expert to try. She eventually asked me if my phone did wireless charging and then told me that as it didn't I didn't have a wireless phone and needed to get a new phone. Don't think there's much point going to the dealer for further support. Phone is a sony xperia 10 iv car is skoda karoq se drive 2023

@Carlston didn't bother to mention this, but the full size data is literally cast (alloys) or stamped (steels) into the wheel rims. For example, "7.5Jx18 ET48 5/112 57.1" is a 7.5inch wide, 18 inch diameter wheel with a 48mm inset, a 5 by 112mm pitch centre diameter and a 57.1 mm diameter centre spigot.

This might help… https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/octavia/2023/

I have Mk1 eyeballs that didn't need to be paid £65 to be activated.

I just downloaded the latest version, MEN3_EU_SK370_P3355L MU1800. Uploaded it to a mega share for you guys. https://mega.nz/file/3KpRyKhJ#uSWK0XzCOAhi7XpH74j9lYjiiAaCjZ89cz_q_UtDSPM

It's come to my attention that if your control unit has a part number ending in F, as found in some or all early mk2 Fabias, a different relay will be fitted, unlike the one in my photos. According to a couple of folk who have fixed their mk2s, expect to find an Omron G8NW-2U 12V DC fitted.

I did the swap on my car today. What I've noticed is that on the light car colours, the new lights black base colour better complements the car as opposed to the genuine indicators clear plastic (makes it better looking and more in sync with the wing mirror black base).