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So I went to see the car today . And for me the orange with the black accents looks great . Coupled with the fact there is over two year’s manufactures warranty and has only 15k Kim’s on the clock ….. it’s my next purchase. will post pics when she arrives 🤟

Bit of a whirlwind week, went to the garage on Wednesday to complain I have no information on the status of my car 3 weeks after the build date. When I arrived, there was a transporter outside unloading & my car was on it... Quick trip to the bank & scan of insurance company websites on Thursday & collection on Friday morning.... Very please with my colour choice & a great car on first impressions. Some things to get used to compared to the manual Octavia but overall seems like a good upgrade. Its the small things with Skoda that make you smile each time, umbrella, hooks & storage solutions in the boot, 2 level boot cover, umbrella holder etc More pictures available is anyone is interested. I will try to create a gdrive shared folder like last time.

Hey @NickWB! Welcome to the home of wet Yetis! Take a look here for the PDF by the very helpful OP: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=112564 I’m still dry after applying the rubber seal above, clearing the drain holes and deleting the wind deflector. No doubt it will be raining inside again tomorrow, but for now I seem to be dry. Let us know how you get on! @Weti’s suggestion above is well worth a try! Cheers, Grantola

In case anyone needs to change one… carefully lever off top gear insert from adhesive pad undo screw- replacement is a reversal of fitting.

I think I used Fuelly in the past but at the moment I'm using Fuelio https://www.fuel.io/

Latest addition to the Swiss Skoda family garage....

Took me 6 years to do my degree as it required about 15 hours a week on top of doing the 40 hour working week but at the end virtually no student debt. Much to commend doing further education when working.

I got ATE coated discs and ATE Ceramic pads and they are silent. Like the OEMs. Dust is still there, just a lighter shade, grey instead of black.

Made my annual Pilgrimage to RAF Donna Nook today 🦭 https://www.lincstrust.org.uk/get-involved/top-reserves/donna-nook

@J.R. Oh, so let me see, so you think you can say things, that may be unintentional but, they are still insulting to me, but do I complain about it, no, I just give you the benefit of doubt. But if I inadvertently do the same to you, you want to ball me out on it? I always try to treat others how I would like to be treated, with respect, so its over to you, make your mind up.

Yes, I think so. The expressions are not perfect in the self study guide. I think they've been translated from another language, probably German and maybe without editing afterwards. So with some logic throughout, you need to be careful of the logic stated. The content where operation is described are generally better expressed but explicit logic can be revered. So care is needed for sure

An engine that is screwed is audible from a mile off to a deaf man. You say the engine is operating at 0.4 bar oil pressure but you only have the word of the main stealer for that, do not take anything anyone in the motor trade is telling you as a given without confirming it yourself, especially when they are hoping for a £9K payday. Checking the drained oil and the removed filter will tell you all you need to know about possible engine damage. Check the O rings on the filter stick while you are at it!

That's predictive adaptive cruise control, not traffic sign recognition Traffic sign recognition does just that, reads road signs and displays them on the dash/HUD Under adaptive cruise control settings, turn off "observe speed limit" or similar. I can't remember how Skoda word it

Not starting could be the immobilizer ring, around the column key, not reading the immobilizer chip in the keys. I think the fob buttons may just be associated with the central locking/alarm and have nothing to do with the immobiliser. Worth a try is putting a key in the ignition. holding the other key local to the first key and trying to start. Otherwise, a scan with a VAG compatible scanner may reveal more.

Found a place that relined the roof and door panels, with a lifetime guarantee that can be transferred if I sell the car. They did a fine job, total cost €380.

The problem is the diesels need so much complicated emissions equipment nowadays, they are often £2500-3500 extra to buy. Then have problem of diesel fuel being close in spec to heating oil, so often costs 10-15p litre (about 7-11%) more in winter. Although diesel gives better mileage, got to consume huge amount of diesel to offset these costs. Thousands of litres of fuel

Lovely day for a drive in a filthy car 😆

For the benfefit of anyone interested and particuarly @J.R.attached are 2 x pdfs. 1 is the ea888 section on oil supply circuits the other is the 2 stage pump section out of the ea211 self study which has a bit more depth on the pump operation than the ea888gen3 guide. EA211 VW Self Study 2 stage pump.pdf VW Self Study EA888gen3 Oil supply.pdf

Wow, that does leave some hope to check out the things you'd normally check before condemning a £9k engine! It sounds like the garage next week can do some proper investigation and they're at least open to it and up to it. They may want the car for a longer period of time to fit it between jobs, test over time. If they do - I suggest you persevere and work with them. Of course, reality is you will probably be paying money to investigate - but that is just the way life works most of the time. Clearly, the garage who says this edit (said the engine is toast without investigation), is so busy and profitable with the day to day routine stuff they can pump through and turnover quickly, they're not interested in doing the more difficult stuff. To be fair, the less straight forward stuff does take up time and can lead to difficulties and headache when the end result is still a irrepairable engine - but it is part of the job and remit of a full service garage... As long as you take the customer with the journey and give them the options to continue investigation or abandon and realistic that after investigation there are not always guarantees it can be fixed..... I'm still living in hope for you and of course very interested in outcomes. What also seems to provides me a further glimmer of hope is the intermittent fluctuation of pressure reported - specifically during the reduce oil pressure mode. If it were a worn bearing problem causing large clearances I would think the problem would be consistent at a certain rpm i.e. low and out of spec pressure and repeatable all the time at low to mid rpms. If it's dropping suddenly way out of spec sometimes - but not all the time - that also points me to the fact that there is something specific that is sometimes causing it to drop and go out of spec and more than likely "could be" fixable....with oil supply circuits and related bits being the focus which is what you seem to have agreed with the other garage set up to investigate. Don't forget to pull that filter adaptor valve out and have a look. Or get new iinvestigaitng garage to. You shouldn't need a new o-ring for the cannister cover, as it is very new and should have not been compressed too much in short time. Just check it after refitting and running.

Isn't it more of a marmalade colour?

Update on this! @J.R. @Breezy_Pete @TheClient The garage didn't check why or how the car has low oil pressure. Didn't check the sump, oil pump, pick-up pipe, PCV valve, nada. They said even IF it was any of them, chances are the damage is already done. Just told me it has low pressure and quoted me £8800 for a brand new engine. Is it true that the damage will be already done? It was running at 0.4 bar, and then when accelerating it spikes up and then drops off, a friend of mine told me that an engine running at that low of pressure is probably knackered.

I'll answer it briefly as possible. 1. It's a Marmite colour, you either love it or hate it! 2. Do you like it? 3. Do you think you can live with it? Especially the morning after! 4. Resale value? Who knows. 5. It stands out like a sore thumb, you have any hassle with Mr Plod or any other nasty piece of work, it's easy to ID you.

Sorted thank you, now the car does what I want.. Cheers..

Please stop with the insults. I too did 8 years day release to finish with an HND but it was and is a 4 year day release course hence my asking if you were slow. In my case I was immature at 16 and being alone in the world without parents went off the rails, I failed N1 and the lecturers, rightly in hindsight, refused to let me retake, in reality refused to have me back in their classes. I dropped down to Technicians 2, well below my actual capabilities, then had to go through T3 and T4 and T5 get a Full Tech Cert then do a years bridging course to get onto N3 where I should have been at 17 but was now 22 and karma meant now had to put up with other 17 year old immature versions of me disrupting the class, I was 24 before I got the HND I should have had at 20.

It could be very cold anytime. My mum can tell you all about 1962/63 and the road closed from Banff to Aberdeen and for how long. (10 weeks.) Who was in hospital maybe having babies or not getting there or back for weeks. Also the Typhoid outbreak in 1964 but that was after winter. There are many stormy and severe wintery years oop north.

I was also around when my uncles and others still lit a fire under lorries, tractors and diggers on very cold mornings in the North East of Scotland. And painted molasses on the lorry tyres and put coarse salt or sand on to get up slopes. Delivering or collecting at farms & the distilleries and where they got the molasses from. Salt from the harbours or they were delivering it. They had oil filled greenhouse heaters plugged in under the engines overnight where there was electricity and my dad did the same with his car in the garage overnight.

Also using fuelio for a few years. Easy to switch between cars and track loads of stuff including service. And no, I'm not on their payroll 😀

It is very early for a Face Lift of Mk4 Fabia when there has not even been all versions of the All New MK4 Fabia available for delivery in the UK. They need to get out their New Superb, New Kodiaq & get on building and getting registered enough Enyaq to be meeting the the Fleet Average C02 from the UK.

Unfortunately, opening a new topic for every thought or every question crossing peoples minds, is what makes it difficult for old or new users (such as you) to find what they are interested in... I encourage the confident use of the "Search" function available on the forum. Good luck with your color choice!

I’m ok with the offering a smaller battery as an option, but without a 400+ mile version than can do a real 330+ in winter on the motorway it’s not going to be enough to bring me back to the fold. Efficiency improvements would mean a 60 and an 80kWh would both have respectable ranges for winter motorway. Chargers are not good enough at the moment, particularly when busy/broken down due to age. Being comfortable that you can do it in one hit both ways is what I need along with a load lugging estate and 800V charging/batteries.

I’ve moved it for you 👍 On the turbo check the actuator works properly and you may have a dirty/sticky VNT mechanism. What sort of mileage/driving style does the car get?

You can ask....sure.. 🤣

Circled red for you

Give me a couple of months and I will quote you on that and you can deny ever saying it like Graham.

Use to do that in Canada when it was -40 (same in C and F as it is the crossover point) Then we got car engine block heaters and little posts in the parking lot which I first thought were the crappiest EV chargers I had seen then it twigged after a couple of seconds what there were. But then this was Alberta where minus 40 is not unknown and even when most the coolant is Glycol it is starting to go solid. So no degree then ?

first port of call would be fit a NEW battery in each Fob. PS little light is normal, tells you it's working.

Thanks for the pictures 😊

He lit rags to warm up the fuel tanks of diesel buses before they went out on cold mornings and swept the floor. You only held your breath for 30 minutes, you let me down 😒

Did you try a simple keyword search?

Not at all. The mit silikat bag is the old part number and it supersedes to a new one without the silikat bag. That in no way voids any warranty. The person above is being taken for a ride by the dealer that doesnt know what theyre talking about (no surprise there)

Audi had wider front than rears as a option on RS3,s. (AWD,s) I used to use 215/40 R 17,s on the front of Mk2 Fabia vRS & 205/40 R 17,s on the rear. Actually measure tyres circumferences when on the wheels as the sizes on the sidewall or using a comparison site might not be the actual difference with tyres of a different manufacture / type / tread. But think what you are doing, check and take any consequence of co-cking up if you do.

It's a good question, @J.R. My use of the word "cheeky" in the above phrase was used to acknowledge the fact that there is no scheduled oil change immediately after the running in period, so changing the oil at that time would be superfluous to the manufacturer's recommended service intervals. Furthermore, using "cheeky" was intended to add my characteristic playfulness to my posts, as well as not place any burden of requirement on Lux, who might not have any spare money for what could be argued is a spurious oil change shortly after purchasing a new car. Beyond that, there is also a subtle cultural implication of pleasure in my use of "cheeky" as it brings to mind (thought possibly not to your mind), the idea of something that can be done fairly quickly and will provide a measure of pleasure. Hence the rather tired expression "Fancy a cheeky Nando's?", from which I drew inspiration, though one might also have heard "Fancy a cheeky pint at lunchtime?" between colleagues at work. The lame superfluous filler word I was substituting for "cheeky" would be "quick", which I suggest is the word from which the colloquial use of "cheeky" has evolved, though I'd be willing to hear other people's opinions on its etymology. Use of the word "quick" would have implied that no other work beyond the oil and filter would be carried out, but while for some the act of changing the oil in their car is a quick job, for others, it is not, and requires some inconvenience. By substituting "cheeky" for "quick", I acknowledge that the oil change might be unnecessary and possibly inconvenient, but that Lux would be happy with the outcome, without placing any burden of expectation upon Lux that he should change the oil after running in his car. You grumpy old so and so! 😋

After remaping my wife's A5 we did test drive and Matjaž looked at comp logs. I had a feelings car is left without "air" in full throttle pull and sometimes looses boost at 4000rpm,also repeatedly had 18010 error. Lambda Readingu was almost 1 and Lean mixture. He first looked at 30A green fusses on top of the battery-oxidated, replaced them with new one-error is gone.. Than he said MAF and or fuel problem. We disconected MAF-,improvement but still fuel problem. Oppened tank and inspected pump for fuel hose break and leak-everything ok, but than he asked me when did I replace fuel filter-more than 10y ago So today I replaced old BOSCH which was installed 8.2018. for new one also from Bosch, and tested car, pulls like hell, ASR lighting all the way through 1,2 and 3rd gear. No errors. Tomorrow will replace fuel filter to for Mann one. More nice new and pictures for music upgrade to come.

300 miles and 3 weeks since I changed the EVAP canister/charcoal filter - and no more warning lights. The part number for the canister is 6C0201801A and cost me £82.92 - part number courtesy of Breezy_Pete - so thanks much for this. Couldn't get it through my local parts store but my mechanic was able to source it. Forgot to mention I was also getting a P04F0 code sometimes - but not always. Removal and installation is straightforward - take off the back wheel under the filler cap to access the plastic wheel arch liner. remove all screws and then the liner itself, The canister will be right in front of you. Remove the 10mm retaining bolt underneath and slide the canister off its bracket. Push a flathead screwdriver into the resctangular lug to release the the white plastic locking ring on the hose clamp fittings, and then swap out the canisters. Put everything back together and you're done. If you're unfamiliar with EVAP systems here's an explainer https://www.nyvip.org/PublicSite/OBDII/evap.html#:~:text=The Evaporative Emission Control System,powered vehicles since the 1970s. I dealt with 2 mechanics here who had never had to change one of these. They're not on the service schedule. If you've found your way here and haven't already changed out the sensor and piping harness I'd reckon change the canister first. Especially if you have been filling your tank past the first click - as I had done and as Andymod says above is a no no. Many thanks to the all the folks on this thread and also this one: Cheers

Nice. Dare I ask?

The sidelight bulbs in my Octavia with Bi-Xenon headlights are W5W halogens.

Skoda might be reading this thread - I just looked and all the standard Kamiqs have disappeared! I very nearly ordered a cancelled one but the dealer only realised it had an electric boot after several conversations, and then wouldn't swallow the difference in cost. I think electric boots have quite a big "wow" factor, but they're a can of worms if they go wrong (and they do) so I certainly wouldn't pay extra for it. That car is still listed.

The socket powers my Nextbase dashcam fine; the specification states it needs 1.5 amp.

With the cost of hardwiring it, would it be cheaper to buy a different dashcam that doesn't need as much current?

Hi guys, just to update the post. I have sorted the problem out. I replaced the boot release button with another one. Now it works fine.