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I know it’s not a Skoda but joining in with others after my recent Octy post. Our Leon has just clocked 60k. Managed to catch it today been waiting…..

If you have the "stop start" function, you have to fit either an EFB or an AGM, as they can cope with the heavy/deep discharge cycles & provide more power compared to "basic lead acid type". EFB is cheaper, AGM is safer as you can turn the case upside down & even crack the case & no liquid will come out as the liquid is held in the Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM).....& they cost more because of this. The MQB platform battery tray has 3 positions for the battery hold down bracket.....& VAG usually fit the size down from what the car ideally should have... Ignore the Ah/rating on the Factory batteries as VAG use strange ratings on a standard battery case size designation. I ripped out my factory mid sized Battery case size H5/027/Group 47, 59Ah/320A (DIN), EFB type battery & replaced it with the bigger case size H6/096/Group 48, 70Ah, 760A CCA (EN/SAE) AGM in January 2015yr....still going strong....I wrote a "how to guide" here...all info in first post:- How to retro-fit a bigger capacity battery to a Mk7 Golf | GOLFMK7 - VW GTI MKVII Forum / VW Golf R Forum / VW Golf MKVII Forum Mind you I have a Ctek charger that does normal & AGM types & also works as a 12V supply. There is usually gaps between the rubber seals on the bonnet & the top of the grill & the wires will go though that without being caught so you can close the car completely when charging. When you swap the battery you need to code the BCM as per my thread above:- VCDS coding required From the Main screen:- Select Control Module [Select] [19-CAN Gateway] Advanced Functions screen:- [Adaptions-10] New value choice screen:- Change the following four channels, inputting the relevant data about the new battery. IDE03256-MAS06105-Battery adaptation-Rated battery capacity IDE03256-MAS06106-Battery adaptation-Battery technology IDE03256-MAS06107-Battery adaptation-Battery manufacturer IDE03256-MAS06108-Battery adaptation-Battery Serial Number When you click on "Battery technology" (using VCDS 21.3.0) a drop down list appears with the following options (= actual meaning):- Wet = Standard Lead Acid Fleece = Standard A.G.M. Wickel6V Wickel12V Ultracap Gel = Standard Gel Lead Acid Lithium ions = Standard LiFePO4 EFB = Standard E.F.B. Binary - AGM = "Bipolar" A.G.M. type EFB+ = E.F.B. "Plus" type Not_assigned_10 Not_assigned_11 Not_assigned_12 Not_assigned_13 Not_assigned_14 Unknown According to various sources of information, including numerous car scans & threads on Ross-Tech, "Fleece" is for standard AGM batteries, "EFB" is for standard EFB batteries, & "Wet" is for standard lead acid batteries, as these settings are used at the factory. The setting of "Binary - AGM" is apparently for specialist "Bipolar AGM" batteries! Also the drop down list is from VCDS & not generated by your car's BCM, therefore, your car may not support all the options on the list, & the BCM will reject the value when you tell it to accept it! Battery BEM codes are now redundant with the above separate channels. The most important channels are:- Rated battery capacity, Battery technology, & Battery Serial Number. For the Battery Serial Number, just change one digit of the old one. This channel tells the BCM that a new battery has been installed & to relearn the new battery & forget any “learnt values” for the old battery!

@okaneloWelcome. No oil change was due at the 30k service on the DQ200 7 speed twin dry clutch DSG, if that was what was done. Best sort out the electrics on the car / engine before having anything done to the DSG, ? Did your 2013 DSG get service campaign '34H5' carried out on it any time after 2017? This was a software update on ones from 2013-2015. Carried out free. ............... When people do change the oil in a DQ200 because they want to then there are 2 oils to change, in the box and in the MCU. This is different from the wet clutch DSG which has the same oil doing the job.

Get the battery and alternator checked out first. What engine do you have?

For those of you who were wondering whether my battery really was reaching end of life, or whether it was perhaps the BM2 battery monitor itself which was draining the battery, here’s the answer, from a screenshot which I took this morning in the BM2 app. You can see that since I changed the battery a couple of days ago, the daily drop in voltage is significantly less than it was with the old battery. I haven’t driven the car during the previous 2 days. The temporary dips in voltage were when I simply opened the car door, in order to pop the bonnet open.

Nope. My lad caught it on our way home from town today shopping, at some traffic lights.

There's no harm asking but I would be surprised if Skoda would contribute anything toward the repair and that's because if they were to contribute, they'd want something in return. It has nothing to do with anyone checking the bolts during a service, rather If you'd been loyal to the Skoda brand in maintaining your car, then in return they may reward you with goodwill. Why show goodwill to someone who hasn't been loyal? I'd have to search the internet about this issue as this is the first I've heard of the problem. That's not to say it doesn't happen to others, I'm just saying it's not common enough for there to be a manufacturing issue hence compensation. My guess is the manufacturer is likely to say it's a wear and tear item, all part of the pleasure of owning something mechanical, but as I say if you don't ask you don't get. You're going to be paying premium prices at a Skoda dealer to have it repaired so I'd be concentrating my efforts looking for an independent to carry out the work.

Thanks for the thoughts and comments, guys. Realistically, I need a car I can take into London without paying pesky ULEZ. So that rules out pretty much all Fabia 6Ys. Not sure on some Petrol models but none of the diesels comply. MPG of modern petrol turbos seem quite remarkable, though I'm greatly sceptical of the miniature engines. Broadly focussing on 1.4-1.6 turbo petrol cars with decent practically that aren't huge. So Golf, Leon, Focus, Astra etc.

Question above withdrawn after RTFM!!

I can recall when it was usual (in competition cars) to put a very bright, red 'idiot' light somewhere in the line of vision for warning of oil pressure failure, as the driver was normally too busy with what's going on outside to worry too much about gauges. The same reason applies to having the rev-counter max. tell-tale at vertical. I shouldn't worry too much about the few seconds that oil pressure takes to build before the light goes off - it's an unavoidable feature of oil draining out of the feed galleries while the engine is stopped. The only way to prevent this would be to have an auxiliary electric oil pump (like a modern, EFI system fuel pump) to pre-charge the galleries before engine start. AFAIK, only F1 engines do this. Obviously, as wear occurs in an engine and tolerances increase, it may take a little longer for the oil pressure to build - but this is likely to be balanced by the cooler oil having a higher viscosity. I recall that when synthetic oils started to be introduced, it was not recommended to mix them with petroleum-based oils - it was considered important to ensure all old oil was flushed out of the engine. I could well be wrong, but I don't recall any advice that engines from the 70s were unsuitable for semi-synthetics or synthetics, apart from (I think) that it was ok to mix oil types with the semi-synthetics.

Random suggestion, but if you have a set of jump leads, try using one from the battery negative post to metal on the engine during a start. The battery earth terminal is only grounded via the single stud on the inner wing and a cold start would give a heavy current draw which may cause issues if there is corrosion. Due to the possibility of this issue, I fitted an extra lead from this point to the engine although corrosion in the battery to earth lead would negate any advantages.

To add to this, I'm happy to go and have a look at something if it's nearer me (and you'd be travelling to pick it up).

It should be due its second DSG oil change now and at the very least its second Haldex service, including removal of the pump and cleaning the gauze strainer. The other thing of note is that if they intend to use it in a ULEZ zone, it's not Euro 6 compliant. However, it will remap to c. 210 bhp and 325 lbs-ft and be satisfyingly perky if that's a consideration.

I had a telephone call today from Tom Moulding who is the Head Technical Co-ordinator at Bridgestone. Nice chap and he has agreed to credit the remaining tread on the tyres which have to be returned to them to be destroyed so they don't reappear in the part worn market. So, I can get any make tyres I like and the credit will come back to me in the form of cash to my bank account. Not sure what tyres to get as I do a very low mileage and live in the sunny south. Having a motorhome as well means holidays / longer distance travelling is very infrequent in the car. I may just replace like for like as I have been very happy with the tyres up until now and it would seem that all new tyres are likely to suffer with cracking due to the newer rubber mixes now being used.

As the title, I haven't seen any other skodas about round here, so where are you from ? I'm from Sunderland what about you ? Cheers Ken

1.4 16v and the 1.2s are all ULEZ compliant as Euro 4, think the 1.4 8v and 2.slow were the same. Brochure is somewhere...

What I am seeing is a flatter discharge curve after the battery was changed - which looks to be the gap in the trace around midday on the 13th. I'm estimating a difference of approx. 0.2 volt, see how it goes I guess.

That is why new shoes have a chamfer on the leading edge and a good mechanic will recreate this before refitting worn ones, the self assistance I mentioned is the raison d'être of leading brake shoes and it is a historic fact that brake servos became commonplace with the introduction of front disc brakes. The leading shoe movement is a force multiplier in exactly the same linear fashion that a vacuum brake servo is. I never said that the leading shoe system increases brake line pressure, it does not need to.

I can vouch for a late 2013 1.2TSI 105BHP Leon 5 door hatch, we got the SE Tech. Has Nav. iPod/phone/USB connection. Think SD card too. LED front and rear lights. Nice looking motor. 6 Speed manual. Proper handbrake. Arm rest jumbo box. Cruise control. Nice maxidot type computer and more on stereo. MF Steering Wheel. All important cam belt not chain engine, was a factor for me. On a run can do 50MPG or more, around town can vary say 35-40, but I can eeek 45-50 out of it. Being a petrol not much torque like the diesels, so you need to rev high to get decent poke. But it’s no slouch. 2 adults and 2 teens has started to feel a little underpowered sometimes. I would get the 1.4 125bhp FR next looks the part and some more horses. It’s our only ULEZ car for Bham and London. All 3 of mine are still diesels. Good luck with your search.

Then it is not a valid comparison if you had driven the car in the days before as the graph indicates to me. What I believe I can see on the previous days is the battery voltage dropping quickly after the engine is shut down and the battery cools then discharging at a similar rate to the new one. On December 10th I (believe) can see a short journey with what looks like a restart, perhaps with the vehicle paused with the ignition on or the keys in the ignition, on the 11th it looks like another short journey and possibly a restart right at the end, nothing on the 12th, on the 13th the new battery fitted with one start to make sure everything was OK before shutting down. Very useful to have the data available though.

Hello, I own a Skoda Yeti 1.4 from 2016, we bought the car in 2020 and we really like it. It is very reliable and comfortable. But now it is starting to have some electronic issues (some gauges are starting to light up) but nothing serious I suppose. I'm happy to be able to discuss technical issues with other Skoda drivers here on the forum. Best regards, Daniel

Paid under £3k for both my Yetis

Ignition switch pins 30 - one black wire (to battery) and one orange wire (to radio) 15 - two black wires (to fuse/relay box and ignition coil) P - N/C 50 - yellow (to starter) 16 - two red wires (brake fluid level sensor and lamp)

Indeed, there was never a need for servo assisted brakes until front disc brakes became common, twin leading shoe drum brakes are self servo assisted!

This is amazing information!

i had a problem with the shift lever (too loose and after shift engage was trembling a bit) especially in 3rd gear, after engage often in high rpm i was hearing a ''gzzzz" sound. I bought and i ask from the mechanic to install this https://www.skoda-parts.com/data/items/254/5aa278e4b4ab5_xl.jpg and the Rear Gearshift Bush https://www.skoda-parts.com/data/items/289/5dc0172bd879e.jpg both from a Cz store and the problem solved, the gear shift changes are more ''robust'' and no sound.

Because front drums were usually twin leading shoe for extra braking assistance.

I'll provide a pic from mine. But I have carb. I'll be back.

I've got my eye on a Scala 1.5 manual as my next car. You will probably get one before me. Let us know how you get on with it when you get one.

In which case, they'd be well advised to buy a late 2015 on Euro 6 compliant car. The 150 TDI replaced the 170. Not quite so much power but almost as much torque. You don't say what the asking price is on the one they're looking at. It should be possible to pick up a low mileage 2016 in a good spec for around £12k in a. private sale.

First look for the straightness of the links. I've seen gear linkages hit by boulders and deformed. Then you have to assess the play in each link. There are repair kits that have new bushings and parts of the gear linkage. Or be creative and build your own new parts.

Yes, ''Αγορα'' Is in Greek, in ancient Athens was the place for the people to talk for public matters, had the same rules as today in Forum (Admin-Thread opener-Warnings-Ban etc), looked like this: The place among building with seats for the citizens was called ''Orchestra". Now with 15W-50 the Oil light immediately get's off, also i have changed the filter, from previous FIBA i went to MANN and i feel secure.

Later ones as in was it the CTHE coming in when the DRL on / off switch was deleted?

I'm planning to skip mib3 and mib4. Think about mib5 in 2029/30 🤣. Mib4 is 2024 on some models, like next year. I can see on EVs putting the heating on via connected services before you get in it has benefits. Seat side they still have problems that over the air mib3 updates that are incompatible to other software in the car, so whilst issues were fixed they get unfixed by Vag with over the air mib3 firmware updates leading to a trip to the dealer to update the offending item. Driving a dumb car seems to have many advantages till the bugs are sorted out.

You don't have to vacuum fill, however it makes it so much easier! Without it, you'll be chasing air out the system for a while, but might get lucky... All depends if you don't mind spending the time doing that! There are circuit bleed options on VCDS however that can help move any trapped air along.

We initially went to look at the Fabia and the test drive route did reveal a road noise rumbling resonance on rougher surfaces. My first thoughts were that it's present in most cars I have driven to some extent which includes more expensive brands. But I felt straight away that I wasn't happy with the result in the Fabia and took a Kamiq out on the same route. This did seem a lot less intrusive and a lot less frequent. I have no idea about car platforms or causes but just went with results. It wasn't something I knew about except for those 2 test drives and I'm happy with the Kamiq so far. I'm sure the Scala will have attributes to offset this irritation that. some cars don't do as well as the Scala. I once test drove a sporty Audi Avant and instead opted for the more plush and refined SE. There was no contest for the same reasons in these 2 cars and the sporty Audi was so much worse than anything else I've driven (much worse than the Fabia) and costs big money for the pleasure. So bad I knew in the first 2 miles that it intruded on conversation in the cabin.

Does the battery symbol illuminate when you switch ignition on and all those other lights appear?

Excuse me for the late response. This is a random photo from the internet. My battery is an Exide Premium 64 Ah. The terminals are clean and is no problem with them. The battery with engine - 12.6 v The alternator with engine running - 14.4

Yes.

i missed 250000 in donkey 2 on Monday by 7km while i was on the motorway 🤦

Closing in on 100k miles.

Done it many times the esyst way unlike some say is to remove the battery on the nearside get a decent pair or the coated workgloves and you will find it a lot better, on the drivers side get a torx bit and remove the whole filter frame from the wing I mean und the bolts and remove them and push the frame to the side use a bit of string or zip tie and hold it out of the way untill you change the bulb ,a lot will say you don't need to do this but it is a lot easier

Yep, mobile phone does exactly that. Thanks chaps for helping out.

. . . or perhaps another Felica owner steps in to put that's normal - (I thought about it but) I'm glad I didn't need to spell it out and it happened, shows the community help, and greater expertise and knowledge of the car through ownership. Just as one example - Mobil 1 Extended Life 10W-60 - "engineered for the specific demands of older vehicles" "engineered to help provide long lasting protection in higher mileage engines so you can get long life out of your vehicle" "designed to help provide the extra protection that older engines can demand. It is suitable for virtually all types of older vehicles and operating conditions" "has the following builder approvals: VW 501 01 / 505 00". - https://www.mobil.com/en-mk/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/gl-xx-mobil-1-extended-life-10w60 I was being a bit sarcastic with that, British humour, my point was that you would find the information very distracting and at times worrying. The way to use the gauges is to learn where the needle should point with your car and occasional glances to see that the needle is in the usual area and not keep a near constant attention on the gauge and not worry too much about book figures or the figures others get on their cars. A digital readout would be madness it would have your eyeballs spinning with the changes sometimes. 😄 So begins another chapter, don't just measure it on ultimate levels of fuel consumption rather all round performance and protection of your engine. Good luck with it. 👍