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Long tailed tit

This mornings sunrise was considerably better than the sunset!

I'd suggest waiting until the new, fully-charged battery is fitted, then resetting all fault codes and taking things from there. All sorts of (often spurious) fault codes can be common with a faulty / discharged battery.

The National Grid is a private owned thing, owned by overseas investors / shareholders with the profits leaving the UK. BBC 5 Live, Wake up to money had a Dealership Group CEO saying just how Private EV sales are right down and it is Fleet Sales / Lease vehicles and because of BIK etc and Company Cars then the drivers are not customers buying / leasing EV,s for the family. The incentives are for business,s / business users and not for the people wanting to buy / lease personal vehicles. The Motor Trade know what they want from the UK Government the only one without incentives for Hard Working or not hard working families buying EV,s. PS Less spending on Chargers in the London area might be a good idea until the rest of England gets more Rapid Chargers and not just on Motorways. ............... Where has Rolls Royce got to with Small Nuclear Modular plants? Now that Boris has gone.

Mechanic is confident he can have it sorted for not too much, so keep it until the test runs out again. If it had been a bit more terminal I'd have went and bought myself another.

More than happy with the smaller rims and change of tyres. Handling better, less crashy, no wheel spin take off even though just above freezing, full power and traction and dynamic control off, but sunny so the road surface was maybe warm enough.

First of all: new unit must be patched as any features covered with FEC/SWaP technology (Bluetooth, sat nav, smartlink, media command, sport menu) will NOT work and there is no way to have them activated officially. I hope there is no CANTON in the car... Pls share VIN and part numbers of new glove box and display units.

Autoglym interior shampoo for all interior cleaning 👍 https://www.amazon.co.uk/AUTOSTYLE-AG-035001-Autoglym-Interior/dp/B00114WOBC/ref=sr_1_5_pp?crid=34M6TBC71F0L6&keywords=autoglym%2Bshampoo%2Binterior&qid=1707305566&sprefix=autoglym%2Bshampoo%2Binter%2Caps%2C90&sr=8-5&th=1

I don't think EV need government help to push forward. Reducing VAT or giving grants will only spur the manufacturer to charge more. Remember when £5000 EV purchase grant dropped to £2500, magically most EV/PHEV price dropped by same amount? Besides, even £20k is expensive for many people who only buy second hand at price range £1-5k. Money is far better spent on National Grid and DNO to speed up charging infrastructure installs. Most importantly is making sure on-street chargers cost similar price as private driveway to resolve people that has been disenfranchised. Make plugging in as easy as possible for everyone. Build them and they will come.

There are Small Chunky ones coming and the FIAT Panda EV might be a winner & the Renault 4. Pity that Suzuki have not got an Ignis or Jimny sized EV ready, they showed the Jimny one about a decade back.

Now that I quite like the look of... It's got some nice chunky design vibes going on and if cheap with a decentish range...

Reducing the VAT has got to be the more obvious candidate. Since leaving the EU there has been 3 years of opportunity to reduce VAT rates and change VATable status be very little, bar sanitary towels which UK gov deserves some credit. Just lower VAT on non luxury EVs ie less than £25k say I reckon could spur on EV sales and get those old Diesels etc scrapped.

http://bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-68130432

I’ll get the indy I use to change the coolant when it has its annual oil change next month.

So finally have nct now. Needed a new abs pump so was done too. And I got a deal on another radio so tried it out. Not a genuine unit but fairly smart. New in the box, has satnav via a thing stuck to the window, all works. Bluetooth CDs etc. Had an adapter loom with a canbus box so plugged straight in. Has some interesting features including a calculator Conversion calculator, alerts for speed cameras and road changes, has android auto but cant quite figure it out. Lists of speed limits and alcohol limits for every country. And bra sizes. Works well, nice and responsive etc. I'll stick with it as the Amundsen has gone into another car.

I think this discussion has gone on enough. I don't think a bit of sleet once or twice a year is going to warrant a set of winter tyres and the hassle/expense of swapping/storing/extra rims. As I pointed out my initial plan was to put all seasons on the back but the fitter couldn't oblige. So it is what it is. I know oversteer can be difficult to for novices who panic, don't have clue what to do or over compensate. I am not a novice, having driven across Europe a number of times on packed snow/ice in minus 21C temps on standard summer tyres over a few decades. I'm simply not going to bin 2 perfectly good tyres which have been no problem over 5 years driven in much worse winter episodes than we are likely to see this year. In time the car will have all seasons all round, but thats going to take some time given the exceptional longevity of the OE P7 tyres.

New mirror units arrived. All seem good and legit! No idea how I managed to find some so 'cheap'. For anyone wondering or looking to do it themselves, the mirror units with heated, blind spot, dimming and cameras is 3V2857507F and 3V2857508F. The next part is, the blind spot connector wiring is short on facelift as the FL mirror housing contains the blind spot light as pictured here Now I didnt want to buy new LED blind spot lights and new mirror glass without the inbuilt light at £600 for the 4 bits, so im just going to extend the wiring on each mirror by 10cm or so to allow the pre facelift mirror glass to be used, As i didnt want to chop into the wires and add joins, ive purchased new terminals and connectors which are JAE MX19002P51 As soon as the correct colour wiring turns up in 0.5mm SQ then ill get these wires extended and then fit them onto the vehicle to fully complete the wing mirror part of the job. Next up is the door connectors themselves - these go from: 27 pin connectors which use 2x MCP 2.8mm terminals and 25x MCON 1,2mm terminals. To 25+4 pin connectors which use 2x MCP 2.8mm terminals, 23x MCON 1.2mm terminals and a 4pin HSD connector. As the pins dont match up like for like, ive made a excel sheet that matches my car wiring so i can swap the pins to the new connectors. Ill take photos of this up close in the next few weeks. Something worth noting - the new connectors with part number 3Q0972701 and 3Q0972702 - the aperture for terminals 1-4 are larger than the rest, this is to accommodate the larger 1.5mmSQ wiring for the speaker system (2 or 4 wires depending if canton or not).

Goldfinch

Drive to the conditions and set the tyre pressures and car settings to what feels right at the time, and watch for those around you that might not and have not a clue. The handling and reactions you and your vehicle might just mean you can avoid them when they get it wrong. PS Good luck those that think better tyres on the rear of a FWD will help if the front / drive / brake or not brake / steer wheels lose traction and you control to get the rear back into line. Get on out and about practising & feeling if you have over steer or under steer & see how your FWD Scandinavian Flick is. This is about driving roads with others about and cambered roads, not some Tyre Reviewer out on a Ice / Snow track ot Track and going for the apex but not able to stay in their own lane or side of the road.

Guys, today something happend. My idle behaved exactly as my Golf 1.5TSI. I started the engine, idle RPM went up to 1000. Then dropped down to 750 RPM, with AC heater ON!! Could not hear the engine running at all, love it. I will inspect this tomorrow again. If it behaves the same, then maybe it has sorted itself out. I will feedback you tomorrow.

Fix it or move it on?

I have just fixed my Fabia 2009 electric windows that stopped working. After checking everything for hours I noticed the right angle adapter on the top of the drivers side window motor can be removed , the one the harness plug attaches to. I sprayed some contact cleaner in , reattached and everything works as it should. Maybe the motor vibrations causes a bad contact. Worth a try if all else fails and a lot cheaper than a new module. I did take the motor to pieces to check the bushes and the circuit board looked ok thats when I noticed the plug to motor adapter.

@NottsIan if a clip is broken already you can take more risk on getting it out, taking regard of the plastic panel of course, but if the clip is unbroken as in your case you can't be expected to risk breaking anything just to find out how it's fitted in, good of you to look. My thoughts were that if this retractable parcel shelf is really a retractable cover, without any additional support to the cover, and it retracts under not too much pressure then the clip fittings don't require that much reinforcement to the fixing. Why they might be so fiddly or not straight forward to hook up I don't know as I've never seen one but a bit of "design" can add to perceived value and selling price. I don't know but I was also thinking If this retractable shelf is an extra to the model often then there might be blanking plates before the clips are fitted and I'd expect them to be quick and easy to replace with clips otherwise fixing time is lost whether the installation is paid extra for not. So many different plastic fitting on cars just for hold covers and panels on let alone bag hook, nets, etc., etc . . . 🙃 Be interesting to find out now how the clips are held in and removed.

I've seen the odd mention of Ad-Blue heaters and level control not registering when topping up but that's about it. The latter is usually when it's absolutely empty with only a few miles left. Having owned both starting at a similar milage (90k) the 150 is a much nicer car.

So I got the CP removal and FEC/SWAP the wrong way round. Been a while so apologies.

New tyres on my MINI today and very happy with the difference in ride with the Maxxis & smaller rims.

thanks a lot @ords and @MarkyG82

Hijacking topic. Maybe someone could also advise how to get rid of scratches on interior plastic? Specifically the plastic which is on the sides of back seats and doorsill?

More steps required. @pab567 will see you right. Simplified, the steps are: install new unit and go to dealer for component protection to be removed, send old and new unit off for swap codes to be copied, install new unit. Does the bolero system have a glovebox unit? If not then the cables will need sorting to allow that and the screen to be plugged in.

As far as I am aware, if the stop/start has stopped the engine, the engine restarts on opening the door.

I'm only guessing to some extent, I can't see behind the panel to see exactly how the insert is held. Having said that there does seem to be slight movement on the insert, hence my guess that its not securely help by clips , rather it just sits against a flange. As you say, ideally we someone with EKTA access...

Octopus planning to biuld its own grid..... https://www.energylivenews.com/2024/01/26/octopus-to-build-own-electricity-pylons-challenging-national-grid/ UK National Grid and the old CEGB did some amazing work, bring the UK on to a single network, load balancing, building and plumbing in Dinorwig to the Grid. Things are changing though, like with Octopus and microgeneration. Whether their business has peaked as lecky becomes something that is not a monopoly and significant numbers of current UK consumers find ways to circumvent the ie drive vehicles that are sucking up power at public sites and running their homes from their vehicle or mobile batteries which have CCS connections to also charge from public charging points like the Allpowers R4000. Collecting lecky could become like collecting bread and milk.

Never fully trust parts lists from such companies, they list parts for the various specs of the model and no doubt will contain errors. I don't know if the whole Karoq range have the same dampers and/or which other Skoda (or VW other brand) models may have those dampers. If there's a 'sports' version or other variant in a model range it may have different dampers to the others perhaps. The parts companies might note this type of thing. Easiest way is to Just start a new thread on there. On changing your front dampers to B6 if you can or do, if you notice difference then it could be the B6s to factory swap, the dampers being new, the dampers being new B6s, also depends on how bad or not your present front dampers are and same for the rear dampers wear. Then there might be a difference between B6 and factory dampers on the road even if the rear dampers were also new. I don't know how noticeable the difference would be having two or four B6s fitted (against 2 or 4 new factory) unless you were pushing things, or heavily loaded as seems the B6s speciality. The B6s may well give reliable service for longer than the factory dampers based on the experience with my wife's Fabia. You perhaps also need a Karoq Edition owner that has fitted two B6s to the front and drives and loads the car in the same way as you but even then it can be subjective. Depending on its age and model of your wife's BMW M Sport it could have a very complex suspension system (as you might discover if you need to do anything on it or the wheels or tyres) you should expect more from that suspension, if you haven't already you may find you pay for that complexity sometime in the future. Passats from what the owners have told me are particularly comfortable riding cars, saloons are lower and with a reasonable length wheelbase, Passat and BMW M Sport are different kettles of fish to modern SUV (or whatever the Karoq is classed as or called). See how you get on with the Karoq forum.

I think you should be ok on the parts selection front. Like discussed already it would be hard for an insurance company to define all the different shocks available. PCP with lack of OEM parts is something you need to work out/take the risk on. On the 2 vs 4 swap. The hypothetical situation you describe: yes you may have a leaky front shock which requires the pair to be changed. If then leaving the rears part worn I would suggest you would notice the imbalance. Especially as you are clearly quite sensitive to suspension issues (not necessarily a bad thing). Take it further and fit B6 shocks to the front and leave potentially weak shocks at the rear.... the imbalance would be too much I think. The rears are cheaper to purchase and cheaper to install. If going to the effort and expense of fitting good quality parts to the front I think you would regret not doing the rear. Returning back to the subject of B6 shocks. I had some on my octavia and it was great. Currently about 25k miles on Koni Special Actives on my passat and seriously considering swapping out for B6 all round. They just don't feel safe and consistent. Unlike the B6's which felt supportive and predictable. Rules and regs of PCP and insurance aside, you would not be dissapointed.

All check your PMs

Can’t disagree with that. The rears on our original P7 still had 4mm after 37k and 3mm on the fronts. Changed them in Dec 23 for Conti AllSeason as we were travelling to Donegal that Christmas. Really fantastic grip in the slushy and icy conditions there and, as a massive bonus, a HUGE reduction of tyre roar in the cabin! The P7’s were even noisier on the 280 than the Kelly Springfield tyres were, which I had on my ‘71 Cooper S; I think they were probably made of coal! 😊

When I partially drained and re-filled my cooling system, after changing a water pump, I was originally going to just top up and "burp" the system by squeezing radiator hoses, etc. running the engine with the radiator cap off ( as per traditional simpler cooling system practice ) but then the complexity of these cooling systems gradually dawned on me and I wasn't then comfortable with this method. I eventually bought a Draper vacuum filling system and did it that way. Under vacuum, I was able to get in an extra litre and a half of coolant if I remember correctly (compared to first running the car up to temperature with the cap off). Many of the manufacturers now seem to recommend vacuum filling. I didn't do any VCDS procedures but will probably look up and see what this entails since it has been mentioned above.

Your choice is dependent on many factors, including upfront cost, fuel and insurance costs. What’s your budget? Manual or DSG? And annual mileage?

Wow! It seems that you have now a nice 'peace pipe'... 😁 Sorry, not funny. I would make same same suggestion. Probably the "cheapest" way to sort this out. 🤔 I wish you can find a solution .

Yup, that's plan B, if there is no interest locally to buy it. I spoke to two different exhaust shops here n they both said they can "make it fit".

Could you find a local fabricator that can weld stainless to modify it?

As this is the 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forum that's what initially lead me to assume (always dangerous) that B6 might be some sort 'sport' (whatever that might mean) damper - I thought now I'd do a quick check on Bilstein UK website, and this is what it has. - "The BILSTEIN B6 shock absorber is the perfect solution if you require more dampening power and efficiency in your suspension setup, including under heavier loads; but don't require a full all-out sports model. BILSTEIN B6 shock absorbers are fully road-tested for road handling capability and endurance. The benefits of BILSTEIN B6 shock absorbers are: Increased power reserves and service life, even when pulling transporters and trailers or during frequent journeys with loads Optimum adhesion and enhanced lane change stability in both day to day and extreme situations Marked improvement in safety and sportiness without additional spring changes such as lowering your vehicle BILSTEIN gas pressure technology BILSTEIN mono-tube/Upside-Down technology, made in Germany Road-tested by BILSTEIN and fine-tuned No German TUV registration required" https://www.bilsteinsuspensionstore.co.uk/info-b6-suspensions @Vlady on that page the "Choose your Car" menu doesn't include Karoq, that could be for a few reasons (including their site not being up to date, errors and omissions) and whether the other models listed would fit and be suitable I've no idea, unless you've seen Bilstein B6 Karoq dampers available elsewhere (or even then) you might need to check with Bilstein. If the B6 aren't available for your Karoq that's an end to that particular path.

Short update Yes some cars get 1941 ota and some not why? No idea. Is there a other voor phev ? No idea. Put the files on formated usb stick. Put usb stick in your car. Reboot systeem ( power button 10 sec) chose which USB port. Take a coffee... Untill proces finished. Bye bye reboots. Download versie MOI3_EU_SK_R9410L MU1941_SK2023061 MIB solutions guest guest

We bought a 2020 Sportline 1.5dsg last year and find that it can be moved along at a brisk pace. Having said we came came from a Freelander so anything by comparison would have felt brisk 😄 One of the reasons we bought the Sportline was for the panoramic roof, let’s in a lot of light on a dull day. Only real complaint was with the OEM 19in Vega rims which were an absolute pita, literally. Felt every pothole and bump. Swapped the Bridgestones for Michelin CrossClimates 2, absolute pleasure by comparison and Significant Other no longer spends every trip looking out for holes in the road.

The digital dash has lots of options.Sunroof doesn't rattle...yet. Performance is ok, I wouldn't bother trying to race anybody. MPG is very good....44 MPG on my usual A road commute road. I say very good MPG against the background of having had 2.0 petrol VAG cars for 16 years

I decided to order Goodyear 4seasons gen 3 £272 for 2 tyres fitted at home by tyresonthedrive.com Michelin CCs would have been £350+ and involve driving to a fitting centre.

For anyone interested in detailed tyre analysis, I came across this guy who claims to be a tyre designer for the last 5 years. His reviews and analysis seem to be the most unbiased I've seen and reveals the compromises tyre manufacturers face when designing a tyre. I.e. there is no perfect tyre... https://tiredriver.com/goodyear-vector-4seasons-gen-3-review/ https://tiredriver.com/michelin-crossclimate-2-review/ https://tiredriver.com/continental-allseasoncontact-2-review/ https://tiredriver.com/improving-dry-performance-all-season-tires/ https://tiredriver.com/comparisons-reviews/

I know this post was originally in 2022 but it has so helped me now in Jan 2024. I have a 2016 skoda superb estate with electric struts that stopped working, These cost over £500 each to replace so did not want to go down this road. So I searched around for used ones from scrapyards etc and spent £350 for a used pair, what a waste of money they didn't work. I bought a pair of after market knock offs from ebay at £250 again no joy they wouldn't work but I managed to get a refund thankfully. I decided after loads of messing about to replace them with gas struts from europarts at £78 a pair. They work perfectly fine but as you said on here the tailgate does not go quite as high as it did with the electric ones and you risk banging your head when using the boot.... Well after reading this post I've sussed it, it is not the number 52 bracket you need it is number 5 Ball stud (5E5827439) !! when you open the tailgate have a look about 4 or 5 inches below where the bottom of the electric struts fit, there is small rubber gromit protecting a threaded hole this hole is where the ball stud fits for the GAS struts Yessssss. When you fit the bottom bit of the gas strut to this hole once you have screwed in a ball stud... success the tailgate lifts to the proper height, thanks guys hope this helps someone else as it was a proper light bulb moment for me, thank you all

Can you elaborate a bit on this? Also I do see yours has a lank button on the top right. I'm researching this upgrade for my superb but I see more and more ways it can go wrong...

Just to give people a quick update. I ordered a rectangular Anker wireless pad and gave it a try but it was a little too big by the time the cable was fitted in the end. I looked again and found a shorter one by Chotech for £13.99 which was around 3cm shorter (11cm vs 14cm) and this one fits just right. I also bought a 30cm USB-C to micro-USB cable which tucks everything away quite nicely. I'm not sure what the rules are about posting links here but am happy to put more details in if anyone is interested.