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🤣🤣 it never moved all day yesterday.. shops not open we just wandered around the area ate lunch out and went to the beach, so no photos taken yet. I got... a.... VW Golf Estate! its ideal, boot floor space is the same as my mk2 octy ( obviously abit more height available, but not needed as the bags fit the same way as at home) diesel, 6 speed manual, massive television screen to do all the button work, so i have to figure out all that crap.. it drives... basically the same as my car but newer ( havent even checked what year it is ) going to Carrefour shortly, a daylight drive after the dark o clock settle in drive the road..

Noticed some cracking crepuscular rays on the way home yesterday 🌤️

BTW headlights are on the front of the car, what you are talking about is just called the rear light.

Cheers Fella, It's currently hibernating under its cover in the garage, and is doubling as a storage shelf for lightweight Mercedes Benz parts but the plan is to get it taxed in March, weather permitting and get using it a bit more to at least get the running in miles under its belt, then it can go for final mapping.

Nah I do less than that Anyways 59 YO, 7 years NCD (didn't have car insurance for 10 years before that , motorcycle only), on that £65k Ioniq 5 at a WN2 postcode

Try and use filtered water [not hardwater] or proper screenwash. You can if you are adventurous take off the jet spray part and soak it in hot water to dislodge the dirt in the jet nozzle.

Take a look at the broken piece, that should have the entire part number and colour code stamped into it

Warrior193 = a third thing occurs, & that is having looked here & the web, I know more about coding & Skoda batteries now, than the so-called mechanic ! Yes, the 2012 Mk2 I bought in 08/2023 so 11yrs old to me, has auto Start/Stop. I will follow your about coding. Tinbum = That's what the garage charged me for supply & fit. Now I am warned. I've never been overcharged here before but this what their supplier charged them. xman = The reg doc has 2012 1.6tdi Greenline II, & I bought it 08/2013. It does have Start/Stop. Yes - it has Bolero. I do not intend to use this garage any more & intend to talk with another about moving my custom.

Stick your now spare light back on the auction site and maybe advertise it in the parts for sale section here.

All it includes in relation to the loom is wiring from the front of the car to 'dumb' wiring sockets behind the boot trim. The dedicated kit then includes the control module and wiring that plugs into these and controls the towing socket.

This is the cheapest way of spillproof filling. You Just need the smaller bottle then decant from larger container into it.

I used to buy my AdBlue from a VW parts supplier the price then was very reasonable and I also had two types of dispenser. One dispenser came with a small cap and probe the other was a long tube and cut out automatically when the tank was full. (actually they both did) I think the VW parts supplier advertised on e-bay.

Hello Terence, welcome to the forum. I'm afraid that it's one of two things - either the 'senior mechanic' is incompetent - or he's lying. Skoda do not manufacture batteries - VAG have them supplied by whoever has the contract, it is the same for tyres. All that has to be done is to enter the battery type (AGM in this case) The AH rating (70 in this case) - and a serial number (can be made up, or simply change the last digit of the old serial number) so that the BCM knows that a new battery has been fitted.

I put about a litre of DPF cleaner down the o2 sensor hole, it sits for 15 minutes before the engine needs to idle for another 15 mins. Smoke is a big grotty and smelly, but differential pressure was down afterwards so it did something.

It is wonderful for cash buyers that just want to purchase a used EV and drive it and keep it a few years. Crash in the market, all these suffering huge losses. Just as long as you are not the muppet that paid far too much. Then as far as the business drivers, as long as the rented car did the job they got it for and then it goes back they will know if they want another or if they are getting an ICE vehicle next. Well maybe the bosses will decide. ......... This is for a £80,000 2024 3 litre diesel Range Rover doing 10,000 miles a year. Just a bit more expensive than the £140,000 Porsche Taycan doing 5,000 miles.

Looking like the weather takes a turn for the worse after today ☔️☔️

A MK4 tail light won't fit a MK3 Octavia. They are mostly likely from a MK3 facelift, aka MK3.5 You have the part number so I'd look for one of those to make sure it matches.

We've never covered any of our Yetis, but my experience of outdoors car covers is based around keeping an old Subaru Impreza Turbo dry and rust-free ! :- 1) Get the heaviest weight cover you can find (many eBay and Amazon ads will state this). 2) Cotton / fleece lined inside 3) Decent straps to the under the body and over the roof. 4) Put 2 covers on top of each other if covering without moving car for a few weeks. If you do all that, it won't lift or blow away, it won't scratch the paint, and the water won't soak through and sit on the paint !!!

so, yeah, its a golf estate. its easy to drive, easy to gauge spaces. keyless fob, electric handbrake (not something i like in any car)

@nta16 already gave a load of great advice, and my unsolicited advice is as follows. (I'll admit, when I was your age, I am unlikely to have followed the advice, but I still think it's good advice. Some of it is unfortunately a bit late, but I'm usually late to threads.) As a first car, buy the cheapest car to run, ideally with low depreciation, and run it properly with good tyres, good fuel, and good maintenance. Insurance, fuel economy, VED rate, maintenance etc. are all part of running costs. IMO, do not mod it at all, focus your effort and resource on getting your maintenance absolutely perfect. None of those silly K&N filters, wheel spacers, loud exhausts, tints, wraps, bigger wheels, carbon-fibre bonnets, spoilers, lowering springs etc. etc. Yes they're all well and good, but IMO they're more trouble than they're worth and usually end up being a costly mistake. (Having made some of those mistakes, I speak from experience.) If you can't resist modding it, maybe splash out on a better ICE (in car entertainment) system if it needs it, without going mad. Installing a good dash camera is a sensible mod that may well reward you. (Watch out for it being used as evidence of speeding, though.) Maintain the car well, use good fuel and run on great tyres. (Great tyres are the best "mod" you'll ever make to a car.) View that first car as an investment in yourself. You're putting-up with a low powered car you don't find particularly desirable, to allow you get down to a sensible insurance cost on a car you do want. If you don't mod it and you look after it, with luck you'll get fair money back, and at the least it will be easier to sell than some boy-racer cast-off. The good news is, you'll find that there's an awful lot of fun to be had in a reliable, well-maintained but low-powered car that's running well on good tyres. (Dull & quiet cars seem to draw less attention from the cops, too.) Whatever you do, I'm sure you'll have a ball. But I expect you'll look back on having paid that £6700 insurance with astonishment in a few years. All that said, it's your money for you to spend as you see fit. Enjoy and good luck! 👍 ( Sorry to sound like a Dad, but I am a Dad, so that's just how I sound. 😄)

Never had a blockage of the rear wiper screen washer over 17 years of Octavia ownership and to be honest they are very rarely used with our relatively dry climate. However, picking up on @varaderoguy's point I have always used water from our reverse osmosis filter tap which is similar to distilled water, so there is no chance of algae growth or any calcium build up.

Exciting week, Geneva motor show and lots of new EVs, including the Renault 5 EV out of the ashes of the old ICE model. Sounds like it is using the Zoe ZE50 battery and motor which is no bad thing with its range but will be interesting to see if the bump up the DC charge speed from the relatively slow 125A just under 50 kW to something a bit more modern rated ie 200 A and therefore about 80 kWh at least for the first few minutes of charging when SOC is under 50% whilst keeping the market leading AC charging of 22 kWs. C3e will be there and the new Dacia Spring extreme with its 45% increase in power taking it to 48 kW from the 33 kWs (new model can do 130 kph, eventually, might take a minute or so to get there. Exiting time and cars for the recession blighted Europe and UK.

The module won’t be a part of it, all that will be there is 2/3 connectors with no connection. To complete it you’ll need Towbar wiring from Towbar to module module switch to release Towbar switch mounting (depending on 5/7 seats) coding with SVM code All the other bits like larger fan and radiator would have all been fitted. that seems extremely expensive! But I suppose prices are different over there

I have had quite a lot of rental cars in other countries and have come to the conclusion that many car rental companies make their money on the add ons and not the actual rental fee which draws you in and then they sting you with the add ons. In Shannon the guy got more petrol in to a nice little Clio I hired, he absolutely brimmed it taking non notice of hte warning that three click of the fuel pump and stop filling else you risk knackering the catalytic converter. Malaga, could not find a petrol anywhere on the road to the car drop off so dropped of with 3/4 tank, got stung 50 Euros for their time to fill up the car. Vancouver, the rate their charged for petrol was about twice what I had seen it, it is sold in sold in litres like Europe which gave me some idea rather than US gallons which is only about 4 litres rather than 4.54 for a UK gallon, confusion and add ons best source of profit. Mind you it is a practice done in many industry so for customs clearance and logistics one is oft charged for BAF, CAF, and a full page or more of additional charges, Bunkering Adjustment factor, Currency adjustment factor and numerous other charges. Way of the world, buyer beware.

What caught my attention was These symptoms reminded me of my old (76) Polo that had a burnt exhaust valve seat and losing compression, so I'm thinking if there is a bent valve stem, damage to a valve seat or something preventing proper valve closure that might explain the above symptoms. Wet v dry compression test would show valve v ring/bore damage

Summarizing the install here to hopefully help someone do this in the future on their Superb 3. The entire installation is based on @ApertureS' wonderful and informative guide for the Octavia. I will try to fill in with some details that may be useful for those who like like to have everything planned out in advance such as myself. I've listed the required parts just above, quote below: Motivation: - I initially bought a steering wheel off an Octavia 4 and I discovered the install would require a new airbag and a special LIN adapter for the scroll wheels to work so after having been through that hurdle, I decided to tone down my expectations and just stick to a wheel matching this car's generation to ensure minimum compatibility issues. Additionally, I had a hard time finding a heated steering wheel which was also flat bottom, had white stitching, had DSG paddles and was not in a terrible state so I splurged on the new OEM one. This one also allowed me to reuse my airbag as Skoda seems to have changed the models at some point (fortunately, being an early 2019 model, I had the latest one (which is flatter on the top) - I found a Superb 3 owner online who had the heated steering wheel equipped from the factory so I asked him to check what clock spring he had. Combining that information with what ApertureS mentioned in his guide, I decided to go with the one ending in 569C as it was proof enough they would work. - Got the Kufatec adapter to make things a little easier. Process: 1.VCDS backup Take a VCDS backup of the coding on your Address 08: Auto HVAC and your Address 16: Steering wheel and do a full auto scan to ensure you know what errors are new and which ones are old. My old steering wheel coding was 6014. 2. The power feed I have replaced the clock spring before on my old O2 so I was quite confident that part of the installation would be easy so I focused my attention on how to wire the new circuit. I only started taking things apart after having managed to plug the terminal in the fuse box as I knew this would be the hardest part due to very tight spacing behind the fuse box. Inspecting the fuse box I found a few that had battery feeds that led nowhere (missing equipment of some sort I suppose) one of which being fuse 47, normally used for the rear wiper, which I don't have. The fuse was ignition switched and led nowhere so I figured I stick the Kufatec terminal in there. I tried removing or dislocating the fusebox slightly with no luck... I found a guide on how to do it on a seat but it seems it is further secured on the Superb and moreover it's wrapped around more plastics and bolts that were in the way... the fuse box would not budge so the only way in was through the back... Thankfully, Purpletom had a really good tip to help with finding the right way in from the back of the fusebox - many thanks @Purpletom for this once again - it did ease things up a lot! The ground wire got hooked up to one of the securing bolts around the fuse box and the new circuit was secured with a 10A fuse (similarly to how Skoda does it in the factory - 10A fuse on the top right of the fuse box on port 2) I got the info off a guy who had a factory fitted hsw. 3. Clock spring and new wheel Removing the old bits: - turn the wheel 90 degrees right, pop the airbag from the back. - turn the wheel 90 degrees left, pop the second latch off and free the airbag. - straighten the steering wheel and disconnect the battery - give it a few minutes for safety. - lift the airbag, lift the white tab on the yellow plug and pop it out. - push the black tab on the left that connects to the steering wheel controls and push that out as well. Set the airbag aside. - Check the size of the securing bolt.... To my surprise mine was a 8.8.... I only had a 10.2 that would fit my old Octavia... Don't ask how I found the right size... This is something you can easily check before the installation by just popping out the airbag without disconnecting it. - Unscrew the bolt and remove the steering wheel. - Release the steering wheel adjustment and pull down as far as it goes then towards you as far as it comes. - Use plastic prying tools to release the top plastic cover. - Unscrew the 2 bolts securing the bottom plastic trim that are in plain sight and the 3rd one on the bottom side of the steering column - The clock spring is secured by 3 small torx bits, remove them. - Unplug the stalk connectors , airbag and steering wheel controls form the clock spring and remove the thing completely. (try not to spin it around if you plan to sell it onwards after this) Refitting the new parts: - Put the new clock spring in place and secure it with the 3 torx screws. - Connect the Kufatec T16 plug to the car's T16 plug then the Kufatec T14 plug to the clock spring - Connect the rest of the plugs to the clock spring and release by removing the red securing tab - place the bottom plastic trim over the steering column agian carefully, be mindful of the start button and how the plastics fit together and secure it with the 3 screws. - push the top plastic trim back into place nicely (first slide it in the back then click it down in place. - Place the new steering wheel on top, make sure the line markers align and screw the nut back in to secure the entire thing together. - connect the airbag to the steering wheel controls on the left. - connect the airbag to the main slipring and push the white tab back in. - push the airbag back into its place. At this point you are ready to reconnect the battery and enjoy a marvelous sight of errors, beeps and flaws. Code the new steering wheel according to this: Code your new steering wheel controller the same way as your old one. Clear all errors and see which ones come back. In my case it was the start/stop system error (with no VCDS error) and ACC error every time I push the acc stalk (with one error in the Address 13: Auto Dist. Reg) Give the car a few hours of sleep (I gave it 5 hours or so) Apparently, the ACC module goes in some sort of sleep a few hours after the car shuts down... The long hours of sleep will let the car also figure out you installed the same battery and not a new one and your start/stop system error will also disappear. Take it for a drive and test all the systems that presented errors after the retrofit: - Park assist - Lane assist - Front assist - ACC - Hill assist - Start/Stop - and of course... the heated steering wheel. Park it up agian, clear the errors wit VCDS again and at this point, you should have the same amount of errors as you had before the retrofit. I hope I covered everything here - the forum won't allow for more than 10MB of pics so I will stick to a single picture upload. Happy to help people in the future with details I may have missed when you find this relic post.

Manuals always cover all the features that might be fitted, not just those that are.

Had plenty of experience towing livestock trailers in the late 70's with a Ford Granada, it was not a good combination. The Superb is softly sprung and has a tendency to wallow at the back end on uneven country roads. With a heavy trailer you might find it bottoming out and quite difficult to handle on less than level roads. Especially if the nose weight changes as the animal moves about. The towball on a superb may be set low, you need to check it matches your trailer You'd be better off with a more agricultural vehicle like a pickup.

Ok, trip to the garage, 2hrs of work, and bonnet is now open. All done under £100 and no damage done (I think they have taken out the bottom grille and worked their way up to the lock), but it's going to be the lesson I'll remember till the rest of my life

Got this yesterday: Škoda Auto has identified a potential issue with Octavia and Superb vehicles within a limited production period, where there is a possibility that a heat protection mat was incorrectly fitted. Incorrectly fitted heat protection mats may expose a coupling connector on the brake fluid reservoir which could melt and cause a brake fluid leak into the engine compartment. For safety reasons, a check of your vehicle is necessary. To make an appointment, please visit skoda.co.nz/recalls or contact your local authorised Škoda dealership at your earliest convenience. The recall work will take around an hour and is of course performed free of charge. Should you no longer own this vehicle, please contact us at [email protected] We would like to apologise in advance for the inconvenience of an additional workshop visit and trust that you will understand and support this precautionary measure. We appreciate your confidence in Škoda and thank you for your loyalty. Booked in for later this week, it'll be interesting to see what they find.

The camera mount I created was no good - but the joys of 3D printing is i can just start again The hole for the camera was too big, the entire body is too big to fit in the honeycomb, so ive had to start from scratch with a 3 piece design and bond them all together. Hopefully it works better this time. I then had the wheel bearing to sort out, nearside rear wheel bearing needed replacing, the genuine bearing is priced at £200 and made by FAG. A FAG bearing cost me £40. (Same part numbers on the bearing, OE is made in CZ, Aftermarket is CN) Replacing is fairly straight forward, release the handbrake to service mode, remove the caliper, remove the torx screw on the disc and slide it out from the carrier body and undo the centre hub bolt. Replace the bearing and make sure all surfaces are clean and dry (Dont oil them! You dont want the inner race to spin, thats what the bearing is for!), the bolt is torqued to 200Nm + 90 degree if its a silver bolt, or 180 degree if its the older black bolt.

Looks identical... The LED bulb you can see is aftermarket. You can remove the bulb carrier and transfer it to the new taillight easily

Not my comparison. Chris Harris was comparing the I5N with RS6 in his video. Back when EV were more rare and expensive, it didn't stop people comparing insurance prices. I don't see why it matters now? I'm surprised TBH, I thought the thinking is that ICE cars are cheaper? May be inflation have taken hold on ICE cars ! May be people should re-evaluate their idea of cheap car. While we are at it, they are within 10% weight difference. 2023 Audi RS 6/Kerb weight: 2,075 kg 2023 Hyundai IONIQ 5 N/Kerb weight: 2,235 kg The difference is much less than lightest vs heaviest VW Golf models: 2024 Volkswagen Golf/Kerb weight: 1,264 to 1,630 kg Edit: Thanks Root, not sure if R8 is comparable to a super-hatch.......

I see a lot of different answers to this question with my 2018 Fabia. I contacted Skoda UK and was told the change period is 15 years or 180,000 miles. Plus regular periodic checks on condition at service time. Message to me said"I can confirm that there has been a recent update regarding the cam belt change interval for your vehicle. It is now recommended to change the cam belt every 15 years or 180,000 miles. However it is crucial to note that during rutine servicing , the cam belt should be inspected to ensure optimal condition and performance." A bit of a get out clause maybe at the end. Hope this helps.

I thought EVs were just for local journeys and not capable of pan country or pan European journey and for that you needed a proper ICE car ?

Spoke to other VW/Skoda service center and they also quoted me $2600. He seamed embarassed at how expensive it was. Spoke to the tow bar specilist and said he could wire/install the offical module/wiring if I obtain it at no additonal install cost. Also familair with coding them in if needed, says its a mixed bag. Sometimes just work straight away, sometimes need some coding. So found this on Amazon https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B019IPYWQA/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Part number checks out, but the images don't. Lets see what arrives in the mail. Around $250 delivered vs closer to $600 locally. Crossing fingers, but my total price will be around $1400 now, still much better than $2600 through Skoda.

I struggled for some time to find a suitable replacement for my Mk3 Mondeo, and my Mk3 Octavia has fitted the bill perfectly. It does everything well. The rear washer issue can be mitigated with regular use, though it's a nuisance having to do that, but that's pretty much it.

No. If you are handy on the tools then you will find that the alignment of the front crash beam affects all the panel gaps at the front of the vehicle especially where they meet with the headlights, I had to slot the fixing holes on mine to get things to line up correctly. The front wings bolt on and you might be able to better the current door and bonnet gaps again possibly by slotting the fixing holes, the same deal with the bonnet. You speak of the boot, I presume you mean the rear hatch, much less scope for adjustment there but look to see of the rubber closing stop blocks are in position, I think they may be adjustable.

Insurance groups and cost means nothing if you have loads of money, or just take someone else's car and rag it stupid.

The EV Operators' Bromance Thread?

148 pages and some of the posts are even about EV,s / BEV,s and are we nearer the truth. It is noted that some posting like in the past days have not even posted about EV.s. Oddish. As to Nit picker. I f the hat fits wear it, and groan at others posts.

That’s correct. So here is the new tank… I popped it into the tank and it fits no problem and with about 80% immersion too. I’m therefore guessing it should add the protection needed to increase the operating life of the G13.

So thats both doors and mirrors fully complete. First was extending the wires for the blind spot indicator as mentioned before - as much as I wanted to run all new wires to avoid a join, it would of taken hours per side, so instead I decided to go for a crimp style connector and OE clear heatshrink supplied by skoda. Kept the join in an area that does not bend and we are all sorted. Whilst fitting the wing mirror I found a tiny spot of rust no bigger than 2/3mm but to be on the safe side, it was treated, sanded and a good dab of paint to cover it. The final connectors for the door jam were finished and the cables tucked away for now (not my prettiest loom taping job and it will get redone when the dash comes out.) The door looms were refitted and you can see where the HSD connectors and cables meet up now. One thing I will monitor is how tight the wires are that live in the door jam since ive re-wrapped them, hopefully we get no early fatigue but in 6 months or so ill strip the boot back and double check for any strain. And now.... the unsung hero that kept me going even in the rain. The gazebo! Best investment ive made for working on the car - rain or wind, put it up, throw the sides on it and carry on. Next on the list is to complete the other isolated areas to minimise how much needs doing for the main strip out, so next up is: - Tailgate wiring and antennas - Headliner down and new shark fin and rear quarter antennas fitted - Front seat strip down and fit of ventilation (will start with passenger seat incase I completely butcher it) And now ive finally got the correct socket, ill be fitting the new rear wheel bearing tomorrow morning (Old one decided it wanted to sing to me constantly)

Love our current owned-from-new 2014 mk3 1.4tsi combi, and the only vehicle that was even better in some areas was our previous mk2 1.9pd combi. That was because it had slightly better economy, bigger fuel tank, independent rear suspension, and 16 inch wheels which were better suited to Australian touring. I've looked at and test driven a lot of potential replacements for our mk3 but they have all fallen short in a sufficient number of areas to not warrant the expense of transferring to a less complete vehicle.

Down on the canal

I've found a comprehensive list of Skoda paint names and codes... but note that these are the European names and some are renamed by Skoda UK for the UK market. Examples are Lava Blue becomes Petrol Blue, and Steel Grey becomes Meteor Grey. Skoda paint codes.pdf Chris

@ScalaMalcthat's great, thanks. If I remember I'll take some pics and post them here. Likely to be mid March as in France until early March.

I'm back !! Been away from Skoda for a while, but collected this 2.0 Superb Sportline Plus today. Looking forward to using this cracking forum again :-)