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Decided that while a stage 1 Superb would be very quick and effective, I need to give ICE a more proper send off before confining myself to a microwave on wheels for a daily.

Some I would expect but not others. However, thank you for this rivetting list. I have other news: Bolero played a complete cd side for 61 minutes this afternoon, as it always has. I shall say no more......except - MORE please !

Recent talks about EV tanks etc, here is a video putting that into perspective: In short, climate change is the last thing to consider for military leaders. For them, most important aspect is combat capability. Also worth noting that large percent of emission comes from logistics and aftermath of war (burning ruins, rebuild efforts). I think it is same as looking at plane emissions at air show, only focusing at the spectacle wouldn’t solve anything.

No **** Sherlock!

Thought this was cool in the folder of receipts! Automotive print, press release and the original double sided brochure.

Few bits done this morning, after ordering a replacement ambient temp sensor, I removed the fog light grill to find the plug wasn’t connected 🙄reconnected it and that was that! Cowboy bodged the drivers side headlight cover to secure it while I wait for the new one. Removed the foam from the top engine cover as it has disintegrated. Ordered new mirror glass for both sides, full set of wheel bolt covers, and the missing tools from the kit. So basically, just threw money at it and dealt with two minor annoyances 💸💸😅

As long as there are people who threaten the world's stability, then good luck getting the decarbonisation of the military anywhere in the world soon. We all need to find ways to be less confrontational and more friendly towards each other. With the huge number of nuclear warheads there are around the world, if they were all to be detonated the amount of emissions would be academic anyway as we could all be dead anyway . If only the authorities were to put as much effort into decommissioning these weapons and promoting peace and co-operation as they are with going electric, then the world would be a far better place and also the air would be massively cleaner then it would be with 100% electric motive power.

Once updated you'll be missing a feature enablement code for predictive navigation functionality, which would break your navigation, PACC and TSR (if equipped). This is why it requires visiting a specialist/main dealer. The update is also designed to be carried out alongside multiple telematics module updates, which aren't DIY 🙂 Our price was for all of the available updates on the vehicle, a main dealer will only carry out the updates you meet the criteria for based on your complaints. The hybrid battery seal is something that definitely needs doing though!

I also bought my car from stock without a spare and thought I would purchase the kit separately afterwards to save money. I scrabbled around to locate the boot insert, tools and second hand space-saver. It was quite a hassle and I probably spent around £180 which is not very much less than the dealer might charge you. I would definitely negotiate a spare wheel from the dealer in future.

Just checking it’s still there 😍

When I went to view it, the number one concern I had was the mention of corrosion in the previous MOT, it mentioned the wishbones and the rear lower spring seat, but I was very happy to see it was just the surface rust which most cars of this age will no doubt show signs of. The sills are all solid, there are some stone chips here and there and I could see some swirl marks on the roof, but it is still in amazing condition. Oddly it still has the blue plastic delivery protectors stuck on the boot carpet and along the silver vRS sill trim! That leads me on to the interior, it looks as though it has never been sat in, the rear seats for sure have never been graced, everything looks like it would had you just pulled out of the main dealers forecourt from buying it! So, my plans are to completely refresh the suspension, I have already ordered several items today in preparation, the rear axle will need to be attacked and painted and the paintwork will need some touch ups and a professional detail job to bring it right up to 'scratch', Now I said I would keep it standard and that really is my plan, and when I refresh the suspension it will look standard to all but those of you with a keen eye! I was toying with the idea of a RARB, and as it happened I just thought I'd see what was knocking about, anyway I bought a brand new Whiteline rear kit off Amazon of all places for £126! This set the ball rolling so I have now ordered Bilstein B4 shocks, Eibach 25mm Pro-Kit, new bump stops, new dust sleeves, new top mounts, new rear upper/lower spring seats, new wishbones, ball-joints, consoles bushes and genuine bolts throughout! ...and that's about it, I have no further plans other than to enjoy it, maintain it and hopefully keep it for a very, very, very long time!

When I had my Octavia (68reg 1.5 tsi DSG), I used to have horrendous wheelspin, which wore out the front tyres in no time. Supplying dealer could find nothing wrong, and blamed my driving style. Once prepaid services finished, I took to another dealer for 3rd service, and they agreed not right, found an update and installed it / no more wheel spin. Now my Karoq is doing it (admittedly mainly, but not exclusively,in the wet). Looks like a trip to dealer☹️

Whether you have sat nav or not Android Auto and either Google maps or Waze is the best imho. 13 engineers driving octavia estates tell me google is way better than skoda sat nav. The rear map lights confused me at first but I couldn't switch mine off..... read on here that the switches are the opposite to what you expect.... have a play, I doubt you've disabled them.

High 40s on motorway

Suggest you get it scanned and see what the error codes are.

Sales pitch was good though, as you made me go and check again 👍 G

In case anyone is wondering about the DRAX comment @Rooted posted, here is the link Drax: UK power station still burning rare forest wood - BBC News, and it confirms what I claimed a while ago about the so-called Green Energy and Renewable Energy that some suppliers offer at a higher price. You really cannot trust anyone who claims that they can and will supply it, where there is a chance of extra profit to be made, ethics will often fly out the window I'm afraid. By way of example, look at their obscene profits they are and have making while our bills have risen way above other countries.

Not sure what it's for but that's where my coolant top up bottle lives 🤣 Car looks well tidy mate!!

Hello guys, My "Skoda Karoq" letter have arrived from Alliexpress🫣 The quality it's quite good except for the "SKODA" where the letter "A" is bigger than the other letters. I used dental floss to remove the old letters and some sticky remover to remove the old glue. Everything looks great beside the letter "A" which I will replace in the future(ordering another set of "KAROQ" and use that "A" which is the right size). The price was about 10$, but the overall quality is really good.

Not to make light of those all around the world getting killed, starved, raped etc because supposedly they are so religious that they think torturing and killing others is perfectly fine, but the wars are really about land, oil and gas, and minerals and who controls the land and wealth there in. The only fighting over renewables so far seems to be with Planning or local or not even local objectors. OT, But the people are being conned by DRAX and paying for that pleasure. The whole Green Energy thing is a nonsense. The UK Government and the political parties need to get a grip.

It is not 40,000 miles on all DSG,s since DQ200,s are no Schedule. DQ381 @ 80,000 or sooner obviously. There is changes now, there was / is VAQ front diffs that were at 30,000 / 3 years, now at 20,000 / 2 year. ***Many never get told about the VAQ service, or told not necessary or can be done sometime.*** Same with Brake Fluid, was @ 30,000 / 3 years then each 2 years. Now at 2 years and each 2 years. Not seen Skoda and Haldex at 20,000 miles / 2 yeas, but Volvo had that. Some need doing, use, location, blocked up and dirty even if never offroad, in a river, sea or mud. It is pick a number any number as far as Guidelines, Recommendations, Advice or Schedules these days. What a pity those in Skoda Dealerships seem to not know.

I used Safely Insured

@AMiles MKII Octavias suffered from corroded wheel hub sensor rings, which illuminated ABS and TCS warning lights on the dashboard clocks. Did they replace the hubs? I am not sure why this would be the reason for an alarming/uncontrollable surge in RPM. Good luck with getting it safely to the garage tomorrow.

40Nm

Given that these cars (and all other modern vehicles) are comples and substantially computer controlled the most effective route to a diagnosis is via a scan, something your garage will most likely do first. You could buy a cheap scanner (anything from 15-50 squid) but - realistically - unless you have some knowledge of what you would be looking at such a choice would be more likely to confuse and alarm than to help.

Heathrow is in the ULEZ zone so all us staff who work at LHR have considered the car we use to get to work. The massive amount of vehicles doing pickup from the cargo centre are rapidly changing over to EVs which siut the journeys better anyways ie pickup from the various airline sheds and drop off at multiple freight forwarders remote transit sheds. Getting the passenger to change is happening at a pace and we should continue to see improvements in air quality barring the oil nails of cars that are permitted to drive on the M25 which there is no tight control of and we need to get rid of those cars through scrappage scheme.

....thought i would leave a few thoughts about my manual vRS 220 (~300) estate after 7 years and 75k miles tweaks in no particular order.... H&R lowering springs Eibach Bilstein B12 Suspension for SKODA OCTAVIA E90-79-010-06-22 30-40/30mm - tunershop on ebay Revo stage 1 from 10k miles great from 3rd gear onwards new CHHB sachs clutch from 20k miles - if you remap its only a matter of time before upgraded clutch needed H&R 26MM FRONT & 24MM REAR ANTI ROLL BARS - huge improvement in cornering - dpmperformance strut brace - subtle improvement on cornering when surface wasnt smooth - less chatter michelin ps4 then ps5 tyres - great performance dry and in wet hunter 4 wheel alignment every 2 years or so - brilliant improvement in handling powerflex engine mount - some increased NVH but really cut down on wheel hop/axle tramp turbotechnics turbo inlet hose boomba racing - 2015 + Volkswagen GTI Blow Off Valve Adapter [BOV], 2015 + Volkswagen GTI Short Shift Transmission Adapter, boomba racing - MK7 GTI Short Throw Weighted Shift Knob - 440 Grams obdeleven - fantastic bit of kit - programmed lots of stuff including free cornering foglights and high beam assist turboback scorpion exhaust, well a prototype one via their ebay shop. sounded good but needed to add some acoustic matting on bootfloor..... 40" O2 Oxygen Lambda Sensor 4 Wire Extension Harness for VW Audi Golf MK7 Passat - from ebay usa for the above exhaust to stop it throwing codes.... enabled smartlink for android auto use via dealer upgraded LED bulbs all around front, rear and inside boot - the foglight ones looked the best! honeycomb front grill black skoda logo badges front and rear - expensive to have them colour coded but they looked really good! upgraded front discs/pads from mtech brakes really enjoyed tweaking the car, sorry to see it go but have moved on to another estate, with dsg/4motion and a few more toys - arteon shooting brake R

150 miles in on Shell V-Power E5 and no noticeable change in stalling characteristics.

Ah yes, I stand corrected, thanks. I did all that at the same time at the dealers three years ago - my aging memory merged two 🙄

That's well tidy. Bonus points from me for the Scottish registration. Nice to see one in good hands.

This is no criticism of you. It is just the nature of car advice forums and when noises are the issue, it can be very hard to give advice without hearing what you mean. To me a woosh sound is different to a buzzing sound. (edit actually you said mooing and someone else mentioned woosh!) As someone else posted, if it is a woosh whenever coming off throttle that sounds like the diverter, that is what they do, let off boost immediately. In the standard set up the release is internally inside the turbo. Some woosh is still normal though. It is quite noticeable on my Golf R. Some boy racers obviously change the set up to make the discharge outside the turbo and make the noise very very noticeable! But that is at odds with a buzzing noise, which to me, sounds like some sort of vibration or resonance and could be literally anything under the car or in the engine bar, heat shields, fuel lines, axle shields goes on and on.......

Yes, yes and yes. Watch the video @AGFalco just posted with a view to dismantling and cleaning the rear brakes. This will require brake cleaner, and I'd recommend using a filter mask to keep from breathing in most of the brake dust.

Cables with thinner insulation can carry a larger current, the manufacturers got wise to that a very long time ago. Length of cable is directly related to current carrying capacity but has no relationship with insulation thickness. @Erreesse why did you feel the need to compensate for the removal of the 25kg of iron they added for some daft reason to do with WTLP or whatever? Its not as if the vehicle was designed with that in place.

The guys at East yorkshire suggested that I shouldn't do this one DIY because it needs multiple resets. I live in Cardiff and they're not much cheaper than Skoda doing it. Not once you factor in the petrol to Yorkshire and back anyway. I'm booked in for April and they'll be doing a HV battery seal recall fix at the same time 🤷‍♂️

My wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS uses 15" 6R, ie slightly earlier than her 6C Polo, VW alloys in winter and they clear the 288mm front brakes, I think that your 2017 1.0TSI 110PS Fabia will have 288mm front brake discs, or even the newer slightly smaller front discs, so that means that if you buy a genuine VW Group alloy, it will clear the brakes on your car.

Those rims on facebook won't fit the Fabia, because they have a 5/112 hub centre bore. Fabias use a 5/100 hub centre bore, so 5/112 won't fit. Those 15" alloy rims are in the VW Golf parts catalogue, as shown below. 1K0601025CA Aluminium rim BRISTOL 6.5Jx15 ET50 5/112 57.1 1K0601025CA 8Z8 Diamond silver https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/vw/RDW/GOLF/474/6/601/601050 The biggest front brakes fitted to the Fabia MK3 are 288x25mm, so 15" rims will fit all models. The specification of the 16" wheels on the Fabia MK3 is 215/45R16 7Jx16 ET46 5/100 57.1 The specification of the 15" wheels on the Fabia MK3 is 185/60R15 6Jx15 ET38 5/100 57.1 Skoda has a competitively priced "alloy rim accessory catalogue". Often these will be the same alloy rims as the factory ones, but with a different OEM part number cast into them...and a consequently much lower price. The four different styles of 15" alloy rims for the Fabia MK3 shown in the Skoda accessory catalogue weigh between 7.5kg and 8.3kg. If you make a note of the OEM part number shown for any of the alloy rims shown in the Skoda accessory catalogue, you can order them from any VAG parts department. For example, 5JA071495A 8Z8 is the OEM part number for the "Propeller" alloy rims. 8Z8 is the associated 3-digit colour code, and means silver. Fabia MK3 6Jx15 ET38 5/100 57.1 alloy rims (from the Skoda accessory catalogue) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kola/c/alloyWheels?sort=priceAsc&q=%3AscoreDesc%3ArimDiameter%3A15%22%3AcarType%3AFabia%2BIII%2B%282014%2B%29# As well as the standard 185/60R15 tyre size, you might also want to consider a slightly oversize 195/60R15 on those 6J rims as this would not only give an even better ride, but better protect the alloy rims from kerbing damage (because the sidewalls will bulge out about 3mm more each side, compared to the narrower 185/60R15 tyre size). See the chart below for the actual inflated tyre width of these two tyre sizes when fitted to a 6J rim width. Notice that the actual inflated width of the tyre isn't usually the same as its "nominal" width. The "nominal" width is what's shown on the tyre's sidewalls. The actual inflated width of a tyre always depends on the rim width to which it is fitted. Actual inflated tyre width 185/60R15 fitted to 6J rim 195mm 195/60R15 fitted to 6J rim 201mm Vredestein Quatrac 195/60R15 88H https://www.camskill.co.uk/m138b0s7993p202144/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac_6_195_60_R15_88H_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB Another option is 15" rims from the Fabia MK4. These are 0.5" narrower than the Fabia MK3 rims. so would not only better protect the alloy rims from kerbing damage but give a slightly better ride. These "Hadar" rims are only 7.2kg each, so are a little lighter than the Fabia MK3 alloy rims. 185/60R15 fitted to a 5.5J rim would give a similar amount of protection from kerbing damage as a 195/60R15 fitted to a 6J rim. As you can see in the chart below, the 185/60R15 fitted to a 5.5J rim width is 12mm (about 0.5") narrower than a 195/60R15 fitted to a 6J rim width. So although the 185 tyre is now 0.5" narrower than the 195 tyre, the rim it is fitted to is also 0.5" narrower...meaning that the sidewalls on the 185 and 195 tyres both bulge out from the alloy rim about the same amount...resulting in a similar amount of protection from kerbing damage. Actual inflated tyre width 185/60R15 fitted to 5.5J rim 189mm 185/60R15 fitted to 6J rim 195mm 195/60R15 fitted to 5.5J rim 195mm 195/60R15 fitted to 6J rim 201mm For ultimate ride comfort and rim protection 195/60R15 fitted to a 5.5J rim could be the way to go. The one very minor disadvantage with fitting a 185/60R15 to a rim with an ET40 offset is that it moves the centre of the wheel 2mm inwards compared to the standard ET38 offset, so by using the slightly wider 195/60R15 this very minor problem is completely negated. In fact some markets used a 195/55R16 tyre size on a 6Jx16 ET40 rim on the Rapid (which was based on the Fabia MK3)...so using a 195 with an ET40 offset on this chassis has already been done by Skoda. Fabia MK4 5.5Jx15 ET40 5/100 57.1 alloy rim shown in the "Skoda accessory catalogue" https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/alu-kola/c/alloyWheels?sort=priceAsc&q=%3AscoreDesc%3AcarType%3AFabia%2BIV%2B%282021%2B%29%3ArimDiameter%3A15%22# Alcar 5.5Jx15 ET40 5/100 57.1 steel rim (from Fabia MK4) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=1360399348768339044&rimCode=ALCAR4055 Wheel trim for 15" steel rim (from Fabia MK4) https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/cs_CZ/sada-poklic-calisto-15/p/6VA071455

Wonderful drive back, I’d forgotten how sporty the ride was, well compared to our Dacia Sandero it is 😆 Effortless cruise back from Burnley to Stoke On Trent, the M6 gods were kind to me! Got home to find the OS headlight backing sat at the bottom of the engine bay, just ordered a new one 🙄 ABS and ASR lights came on, after a Costa stop they went off again, only to come on again shortly after, so that needs investigating. I obviously had rose tinted glasses on when I viewed it initially, couple of minor (I’m being really anal here) marks here and there, and the drivers mirror needs replacing, oh and the tool kit is missing a couple of bits. But, I’m so happy, again I have to say the previous owner really did not mess about, the amount of receipts for genuine parts from TPS is staggering! First job is to remove the blue sticky protective plastic! What would normally sit in this space?

I don’t have driving modes on the Superb as it’s a Superb II. That’s why I was asking as it’ll be the first car I’ve had that has driving modes so no idea what difference the eco mode makes when using it. 😉👍🏼

I like Rotis. Gandalf likes Rotis. Together, they make a good form!! 😂 Really pleased with how these turned out, and the fitment is spot on. Rotiform LAS-R 19x8.5 ET35 Matte Black

I had this same issue at the end of last year and a reinstall of the firmware sorted it. A fellow member supplied me with the file and I burnt it to a CD and installed. If you search for the “Columbus Sales & Repair” thread you should get someone along to help you out. (Bear in mind the creator of that thread is no longer a member but someone else should be able to help you once you post a reply on that thread).

Interesting you bought up children. What are your thoughts about every single cars with child safety lock on the rear door, that parents are advised to use? If it really troubles you, you can easily replace those emergency access with things like these, a single pull action will open the door. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mechanical-Shockproof-Resistant-Replacement-Release/dp/B0C7BMVR9P/ I had driven a 2024 Lexus NX a few weeks ago. It also has electronic door release. But its manual release is a lot more obvious: https://mag.lexus.co.uk/e-latch-system/ Actually, thinking about it, I'll order one of those replacement emergency release things for my MY. Just in case, because it's 2022 car, harder to access the emergency release.

Cheers!

I voiced my concerns about the practise of some electric cars relying on the car actually having power left in the battery and the circuitry still being intact, i.e., no blown fuses or wiring issues in order to open the car doors from inside, and I guess the same would apply from outside, especially in an emergency situation. Now it seems that this is a problem currently more to do with Tesla's, but as some will recall that the Mac Master also got locked inside his Porsche Taycan, and some members berated him at the time, and saying it was clickbait 🙄. Well, guess what it wasn't, it was a fact and the Tesla has been called out for this before and people have been trapped inside burning cars and have only been rescued by others breaking the windows and the people climbing out through them. Then it has also been reported and shown on some YT channels that there is in fact on the Tesla's and Taycans, 2 door releases on the front doors, a manual one (tucked away) and a press button, just like in that Rolls Royce video, pressing the button releases the door, the same for the rear passengers in a Tesla, BUT there is not a manual release. This is a classic case of style over substance, why not just have the same as other cars have, a simple system, that can operate the doors normally, even if locked, the internal door handles/levers will unlock and open the doors allowing for easy escape in an emergency situation. It now turns out that there are in some rear doors on Tesla's but not all and in all cases it involves removing bits of the car to gain access to then, when fitted. Less than ideal, I think you'll agree, especially when you may have your children in the back or elderly parents etc, or maybe someone who is not even familiar with the car. In fact on one model, you have to remove the entire door card, this is something you cannot do when the door is shut, go figure?? This video explains more and actually shows you where these are. Don't shoot the messenger, but if nobody has been killed in cars fitted with this type of system, then it can only be a matter of time.

When my turbo was replaced they didn’t bolt down a turbo clamp correctly and I got a rattling noise at start up. Check it could be this.

So... not to be defeated, I've decided to keep the fight going and got the local engineer in! Damage / rot was worse than first thought: Saying that he's done an excellent job of welding-in new steel (no donor parts, all from scratch) and getting it protected: So now I just need to get the filler primer out (you can see the gap between the door and arch) and get it painted up: Now to see if I can get The Beast through its MoT 😅

Standard issue. The window mechanism is mounted on a steel plate with a seal between it an the door structure. The seal does not always work. I have removed the door cards, dried the joint and used silicone sealant around the lower half of the window mechanism. This keeps the water inside the doors, which are a wet area by design. Check the drain holes are clear in the bottom of the doors. You may need to flex the seals out of the way to clear some of them. Incidentally Mk1 Fabias are the same design.

Mine was also intermittent, sometimes pulling away at first it was terrible, and other days nothing at all. Replacing the clutch and flywheel 100% solved it. A bit of shopping around and I got it done for €1000. It took two guys 1.5 hours to do, so if you find someone who knows what they're doing it, shouldn't be prohibitively expensive. The 1.4tsi 150 manual is a DMF.

"The rule of thumb for me before was service every year / 12,000 miles (19,000 km)." "I bought the car last June with 132,835K" "I am currently at 153,196k" = 20,361km Skoda website states OIl and inspection service every 10,000k after 3yr/30,000k https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/servicing-maintenance-fixed-price Skoda dealer site https://www.winchestermotorgroup.co.uk/skoda/servicing-offers/skoda/ The garage that serviced it last suggested 12 month or around 14,000k? You are currently beyond your own rule of thumb and two Professional's advice. I have my car serviced every 12 months regardless of mileage a month before it's MOT to ensure a pass the following month. i don't do more than 6,000 miles a year

When mine rattled from cold start it was the turbo on the way out. Then when it did it again after being fixed they hadn’t secured a bracket correctly. Shake the car with the engine off and if it still rattles it’s a loose bolt.

I ended up doing it… mekede m6 pro 2K from ali express Huge improvement, some flaws I can live with, but you need to have some tinkering experience and don’t expect much support from the seller… https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMgfnPO https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/mekede-m6pro-plus-with-2k-2000x1200-screen.4516547/