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If you've connected via tv coax cable. Then turn on the VCR and play some vcr tape so its outputting an RF signal to your tv On the TV you need to go into setup and scan analogue channels on uhf, normally VCRs operate on UHF channel 30 to 36 , iirc ch36 was the standard. Once it picks up your vcr signal you should be able go to that channel and watch that Debbie does Dallas tape. You might need to disconnect any other aerial as terrestrial DVB might be using a conflicting channel (ch 36) Instructions to scan analogue channels are here https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1571609/Sony-Bravia-Kd-49xf9005.html

Managed to get a pic of the Sparrowhawk who pops by now and again.

MY18 1.4TSI ACT DSG Estate. Fuelled up on Sunday and it was estimating 695 miles. We've had a lovely day poodling around between Oban,Strontian & Fort Willima which has taken us to 205 miles sine refuelling and still estimating 520 miles remaining . That should put us at around 725 miles (in theory)

well i changed my badges over today, i found going in with the dental floss from the underneath the easiest, done all the steps, not sure its 100% straight but i dont think ill be able to move it or really notice out and about but it looks much better and how it show come from the factory, heres a before and after

If I ran out of fuel, I would probably think "What an idiot I am" 🙄

Check the battery voltage. Most places that sell batteries will perform a free battery test. It may just need a good recharge (up to 48 hrs on a battery charger) A failing or weak battery will always be worse in the cold.

This is why I retro fitted the TPMS button to my MK7....only China get it!... Having everything on a touch screen is stupid, if the touch screen goes thats it how you do TPMS or even switch of the ASR/ESC in winter?...

There's a dirty whisper going about that even I may attend this year......

Once you’ve sorted this ditch the locking bolts for normal ones. No one steals alloys anymore.

Wow, how weird is that! I did exactly the same thing in January! From an L&K 272 (350bhp with a Stage 1) to a Mercedes-AMG C43.

We can supply FECs, however for MQBevo they're £1200 for upto 8 features 🥲

Damage occurs when you're not square on when undoing the bolt. Hold the key fully home and square with one hand when applying force on the wrench. Angled wrenches should be avoided including the pathetic wrench supplied on the Skoda wheel toolkit. 4 way cross wrenches are the safest. Torque wrenches with short extensions are reasonably safe Avoid these angled wrenches, they do not apply force in the correct plane and carry a high risk of key damage

Very few people have ever looked under that flap, so hardly anyone knows about the drain being there.

Nissan one is slightly different. Nissan are shutting down their server/service for old Leaf using CarWings. This system uses 2G instead of 3G, 2G is said to be the fall-back option during 3G shutdown and will operate into 2030's. So this loss of vehicle feature is entirely on Nissan.

Same here - spent the cost of paint on Winter Pack+ Worth every penny - 4 heated seats and wouldn't want to be without a heated windscreen👌

Adopting a new DPF sensor can be done via VCDS, however I'd be wanting to run VAGDPF via Carista OBD dongle to see how blocked the DPF actually is, whether the car regens etc before I'd shell out on new parts.

So it appears on our mk3, you have to prise the fuel bracket with screwdrivers, where in the past it’s been a torx bolt. Anyway, after my actuated packed up, I had to figure this out, so in posting it here with the part number so the next guy don’t suffer like I did.

After seeing so many people doing it the wrong way, I decided to make my own video

While overall super happy with my 2.0TDI, I hear too much the engine noise. It is not the end of the world, but it grinds me down on long journeys. And particularly when I compare with the Volvo S60 I used to drive. So I started researching how to make it quieter. This post is documenting what I have done and I will do. And in case anyone has ideas, just add to it. 1.- Ideas to get references: The superb III owners has a very long thread (23 pages and counting) on the topic. It made me wonder that maybe the mk2 is better in this regard. This YT channel has interesting material. Example video: Sound Deadening a Car Where It Actually Makes a Difference! A bit off topic, but this video How Much Weight can you REMOVE from your Car? (Weight Reduction) opened my eye to the insane amount of insulation material you can find in a BMW 3-series. I do suspect you won't find the same in a Skoda. Insonorizar Coche a Nivel Profesional | El Secreto de los Coches de Lujo. What would it take to go full in into making a car quiet (in Spanish) 2.- My plan. So I won't go a fully deep as the pro-video at the end (though I may consider it), but I do plan on making the 20% that may give 50% of the return. Bonnet insulation, trunk insulation, and a quick change in the floor mats. 3.- Progress so far: ACTION 1: In the trunk, I put sound absorption under the spare wheel. There is very little sound dampening, but I made a quick fix. I got approx 1x1m sound absorbing foam, made a hole, and threw it under the wheel. This was super quick to do, and about 14 EUR for the foam, if I recall correctly. RESULT: My goal is mainly to reduce engine noise, so it had no impact there. But this was super quick and easy. Interestingly, the back feels way quieter. Right after doing it, I game me the impression that a chunk of the car in the back was missing, because I didn't hear as much noise. RECOMMENDATION?: Yes do it, because it is super fast. Also, it can be undone, there is no glue involved. Picture of the kind of material I am taling about. Picture of the wheel space BEFORE I put the foam. I have no after pictures, but basically anywhere you see metal sheet (brown), now is covered with foam. ACTION 2: INJECTOR CLEANER. I read it may help the enginge run better and be smooother. I had to do it for maintenance regardless. RESULT: No difference in sound. RECOMMENDATION? For the injectors, and also it is quick and cheap. But no noise change at all. ACTION 3: NEW CARPETS, AND STICKING NOISE ABSORPTIONUNDERNEATH. So I got new mats, because the previous ones were too old. These are rubber, as they fit better how I use the car. Happy with the mat, and decided to stick a 1cm thick sound foam underneath. It took me some time to cut it to size. RESULT: Less vibration through the feet. A bit less of noise probably. RECOMMENDATION? Optional, but I do appreciate a bit less of vibration. Also, super easy place to add noise insulation on the interior, as one has perfect access. ACTION 4: CAR BONNET 1. ALUBUTYL LAYER So now heading straigth to address my main problem with engine noise. This requires a bit more time, and I am still working on it. First, I removed the headshield in the car... and there is the heat shield, that starts to show its age (14 years), not looking flexible and letting go some powder. Also, the bonnet metal sheet has zero sound dampening or insulation. I don't know if the heat shield is supposed to absorb noise, but I do not think it is in any condition to do so effectively. So yesterday, I started to apply alubutyl layer, and sticking it. I am only 40% done, because I ran out of time and the surface is complicated with all the different crevices. This is a bit of a tiresome job. RESULT: So far, inconclusive. I can't sense a difference. but I am not done.... FUTURE ACTIONS: ACTION 4: CAR BONNET 1. ALUBUTYL LAYER, COMPLETE IT. Maybe in a couple of weeekends I will have time, and then... ACTION 5: CAR BONNET 2. SOUND INSULATION LAYER. I will add a second layer of sound insulation foam. From the videos, alubutyl mainly prevents vibration on the metal, and the job of the sound foam is to absorb the noise. So both work together better. I will report back with pictures on both processes. ACTION 6 - MAYBE: Figure out where else in the engine bay can alubutyl and sound insulation be applied. ACTION 7 - MAYBE: Put noise absortion in the front wheel wells. UNLIKELY ACTIONS: I won't go any deeper on a DIY mode (no door panels, removing seats and carpet, dismounting pillars,...) If I am not satisfied, I may go to get a professional sound insulation, the kind that removes the seats removes carpet removes car panels ...and adds insulating material throughout. Like the Spanish video I link above. Any ideas on cost? If I am not satisfied, make peace with it. Or save a lot of money and buy a Lexus. That is my plan. Any ideas, welcome! I will report back as I make progress.

Great idea, you go first @J.R. 😂

Around 15 years ago, changed the rear pads on my Seat Alhambra thinking I could wind back the pistons using a screwdriver or a pair of grips. Car had done about 85,000 miles from new. After struggling for a few minutes, the screwdriver slipped, caught and tore the rubber boot a few mm. Next day, I bought a wind back tool and finished the job but didn't replace the boot. I ran the car for another 10 years and 65,000 miles without any issue with the rear brakes. The car was always parked in a garage and rarely outside so that may have helped. Wouldn't do that nowadays btw. If the cost of a replacement caliper is only £50, I wouldn't faff about rebuilding it but simply replace it.

-> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/7-audio-electronics-and-security/

Make sure you connect coax to the correct antenna connections VCR - Antenna Out TV - Antenna In You need the correct male and female ends on the coax cable.

I’d do a contactless foam and rinse every week - we do 2-3 commutes a week, and after every family trip too. We got some warm days now so I am already washing bugs from grill and bumper, while still driving my winter tyres! Corrected that the day after taking the pic.

I may be being slightly conservative on those figures…. Probably more like high 50s/touching 60 and high 40s in reality. The car was part of the dieselgate issue but has never had the fix applied. What you have to bear in mind though is the difference in altitude/height between the two locations. (Sea level at work and 400ft+ above sea level where I live on the edge of the Woodhead Moors) so my real world figures will never be anything like published figures.

Nearly at the end of a tank of Shell V-Power E5 and no appreciable difference in resistance to stalling, performance or economy😕 Next step will be to consider a pedal box (or a different car altogether!)

Any idea if this represents a particular cloud formation?

You're still going to need to replace the original key so you can remove the original locking bolts before you can fit the new bolts from your new kit.

Hi there, I got the switch from amazon. https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiQoq3AzNqEAxXdiFAGHXcrDZ4YABAKGgJkZw&ase=2&gclid=CjwKCAiA_5WvBhBAEiwAZtCU7-fUuGIqEA970bsf6t_BV8Pj-7XrQSN02ER_X3r69_BJvt1FE8GzQxoC9HUQAvD_BwE&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESVuD2ODbQw4voiM65vAWa3YbiVYXjf6CNCjND_0Px7LktYK2qwuOO13_G4GEsn1R_VcWo1rn53PMj1kqyQZz5MjZzZYEgWdlEG3cIXDP20dmuXwCY88Iq&sig=AOD64_2flMrsUwPrEOmTgNnPFhm2FvQavA&ctype=5&q=&nis=4&ved=2ahUKEwjL6aLAzNqEAxXlQkEAHdD_AwYQ9aACKAB6BAgJEBI&adurl= Hope the link works. It was £12-99 delivered. I use amazon prime so came next day. Alasdair

Thanks, @Cakemonster. You know what, I'll take some time later today to walk through these steps carefully, sitting by the car and then update here with my findings.

-> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/459115-instructions-for-winter-refueling/ -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/501427-filler-cap-stuck-query/ -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/507390-fuel-flap-is-stuck-and-wont-open/

Hi, Have a look to the manual. If I remember well, there's a kind of backup opening system in the right side of boot. A kind of red plastic cable to pull... At least I've seen this on several VAG models. I'm guessing our Mk3 are also equipped with this system too. Otherwise, you can search on this forum. I remember 1or 2 threads "fuel flap won't open" or similar.

Any chance you had rain/puddle water dripping off shoe soles onto mats on that occasion? Blasting air at the floor would have started to evaporate that fast. No airflow on cold glass would have given that somewhere good to condense again straight away.

Even some of this styling / look actually produced as a BEV would be a big deal.

Well I'm impressed at your bravery re. the MIB upgrade! On the washer thing, I lost the rear washers at one point - right after an MOT where I suspect they adjusted the headlights slightly. I had a go at removing the rear washer nozzle but gave up as it was too difficult. I then noticed that when I ran the rear washers, water came out in front of the front RH wheel. I undid the wheel arch and found that a washer hose just behind and very close to the headlight, had come adrift at a connector. I suspected the garage had pulled on it. I plugged it back in. This was a while ago and so I wouldn't have thought it would have come adrift again, but I would check for any water coming out in front of the RH front wheel when you run the rear washers. It is a bit odd that the reservoir is behind the front wheel, but the hose runs initially forward in front of the wheel before making its way back to the rear windscreen. On the DSG oil change thing, I bought a cheapo Draper manual oil pump thing which was a bit slow but did fill the gearbox adequately. It is a bit of a faff but only once every 40,000 miles! I did change the oil and filter at 80,000 miles so there is no need to do this again until 120,000 miles. On the steering wheel, I now have the new one with the new Skoda. The heated wheel is great at this time of year, but the button/thumbwheel arrangement is not as good because it is far too easy to knock the buttons and/or thumbwheels whilst manoeuvring. I routinely find the radio on the wrong station or gone to mute etc. But this is a first world problem I guess, and probably the heated wheel is worth it! On the wheel size, I wasn't a great fan of the 19" wheels but now I have 18" wheels they seem about right (and cheaper tyres). I would have thought 18" was fine and maybe 17" is getting a bit small / high profile for a fast car. Intrigued to know what you found under the seats. Chips, crisps and sweets I can imagine, anything else must have been when someone else was driving!

My karoq, which was bought used in Aberdeen is solid grey (primer). I don't particularly like the colour but I'm inside it looking out so don't see much of it. When I sold my white yeti I decided the next car wasn't going to be white again (3 white in a row), black, or anything in between. But when buying a used cat the condition, spec, history etc is more important than the colour, so grey it is!

Colourful end to the day earlier..........

That's OK, at least they'll find the bugs first! 😆

Rather than getting the Locking key only, I think it will be good idea to get the full set of bolt and locking key.

on the bridge at the entrance to our holiday accommodation in Scotland this week

Hardly worth washing a car this time of year. Dirty again in less than one day.

According to a friend who’s an RAC Tech, in their experience, the vast majority of those idiot drivers who run out of fuel, are men.

For UK owners https://eastyorkshireretrofits.co.uk/products/highline-reverse-camera-karoq?_pos=1&_sid=5764c2f0f&_ss=r

I would rather buy a four year old car that i can afford and own it than "use" a new car for four years and end up with nothing.

Hi - are you still needing a response on this? Although they call what you are wanting to change the 'lower' arms' there are no front upper ones. Rear has upper and lower arms. From your description I would suggest you are referring to the front 'wishbone' as the control arm (interchangeable terms). This is all a slippery slope - you can either change what it necessary OR do a complete refresh. From experience once you start replacing one worn part with a new fresh firmer item it shows up all the rest of the old failing bits and likely speed up the ware on those old bits. I have recently done a full suspension overhaul on a 2010 Tiguan 4motion. Literally everything, all arms, anything rubber, springs, shocks, arb's, subframe collars, ... you are in for quite a lot of money but it will be really really good and you can get bits on from other VAG models too to improve things. Depends on what you want to achieve. I've gone for preventative maintenance along with making it less of a truck as we are keeping it at least another 5 years so will get the benfit from all the new goodies. I decided to do it all together as once you get close to lowering the front subframe there are several parts you can change OR will have to drop the subframe again for in maybe 6-24 months again with the associated labour costs and (ideally) another set of new subframe bolts if you adhere to the VW 'use once' philosophy of their bolts. Personally, I would get the alloy Passat wishbones and a Meyle HD rear console bush. The HD console bush doesnt have the large holes that rip - less ware and lasts longer. Alternatively there is, I believe the genuine S3 rear console bush which is also either solid or has less voids. For the wishbones, as the alloy ones are essentially fine buying used, get a used pair off of ebay and just get the front small bush replaced. I have done this before by drilling out the old bush and inserting a poly item from Problem Solving Bushings. That bush will never need replacing again. If you have an auto/dsg then the (UK) passenger side will be a problem and likely the subframe will need to be dropped a bit. I found once you start on the front chassis parts, if you really look in to it, its a very slippery slope ... because if you are dropping the subframe do you then replace the front ARB rubbers (integral to the ARB unfortunately and requires subframe removal ...) Also, ECS subframe collars will put your front subframe in correct alignment permanently, while your subframe is being lowered... Happy to detail more in a more detailed response below if needed ...

HI Steve Saw your post on Octy NX (4) PHEV asking for a towbar. Here is my discussions with the helpful Skoda dealer, somewhere along the M4 Yes you can put a towbar on any Octavia, but it must be plated for that. Some skodas are not, so you must either buy the factory towbar or find one that is plated. That means buying the extra pack from Skoda, dont try to put a towbar on a non-plated car, a) the fitter should not do it, and b) if you get caught by mr plod you cant continue to tow and you are stranded..... not clever at all c) you have no insurance. I sat with a SKoda dealer for near 2 hours, asking about a Skoda Octavia PHEV with a towbar for my up-plated caravan, thats 1500kg. He absolutely said no, dont do it, not even a new one, buy either a petrol or a diesel. Why, well the PHEV only charges when you are either plugged in, ie not towing, or going downhill without engine braking. So after 50 or 80 miles you have 0% in the battery. Now you are left with just a petrol 1.4 (or newer 1.5) petrol engine to tow. Thats not going to get a 1500kg caravan up a hill easily, and you are going to knacker that battery very quickly, taking it to 0%, then 100% charge every time does not do it good. Its your choice, but several Skoda dealers said the same. I was lucky and found an Octavia plated to 1600kg with towbar and winter pack.... 2022 nx, I had been looking for 6 months. hope you chose wisely, Orange Tart.

You just tuck the cable in, no need for the mini plug to be pushed through anything

I kept this one from 2008 as I found it interesting, it seems to largely match what the Superb does. Despite the file name it is in English. Adaptivni_svetlomety_AFS_ENG_07_2008.pdf

Highline reversing camera. DIY raised boot floor. Towbar.

also interested, start and stop is one of the most anoying thing ever created in the human history 😁