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Battery is toast… (or engine is seized) and I’m going with you know it’s not the second option 😂 The plates will be cracked or sulfated in the battery meaning it’s true storage capacity and output capacity is massively reduced enough to pull the voltage down that low

There is a bottom for every seat.

The Ministry of Truth getting ever more dirty in its campaigning. More resignations and less Con MPs re-standing but the risk of ever more loony candidates is the worry. Oddschecker showing Cons are about 10 to 1 whereas Labour is 1 to 10 on it seems, cannot wait but the mess they will inherit. Not that there is no money but there is £2.5T debt up from £1T only 14 years ago. Not fixing the roof in the good time 2015 to 2020.

Very doubtful that it can make any useful recovery, sorry.

FWD 1.8 TSI,s also have DQ200,s. (Kodiaq 1.4 TSI ACT with AWD / Haldex or any AWD do not have a DQ200 DSG.)

Ah, in that case youve probably woken the local grizzly bear out of hibernation and its a bit angry.

If the water pump/ thermostat housing was replaced under warranty a water pump belt would/should have been replaced, the cambelt wouldn’t have been touched, the cambelt doesn’t drive the water pump as it has its own drive belt

Well I had aches and pains before I began .... a 6 hour session and I am still suffering, age doesn't come alone ! But when it rained last night, I got the beading I was hoping to see 😊 With Flash: Without Flash:

Just imagine what it is like for those not near London with a choice of places within 33 miles, like on a Northern or Western island or just rural areas where they think electrified cars are an economic means of transport.

A spray of silicone lubricant will work wonders to make it slide easier.

Fitted five new All Season tyres last November. As well as doing the brake strip, clean and regrease I do in the autumn. So 6th service done on Saturday and MOT today. Service is an oil, oil filter and cabin cabin filter one. Battery wanted charging but the car has had less use than in previous years. It is now up to 49 K miles. The tyres/wheels were rotated and alignment checked as usual. MOT was straight through no problems. Brake and emission test results all good. Removed O-S-R wheel arch liner and still all good with no signs of rust around fuel filler. Sprayed a layer of paint around the neck while it was off. After 2.5 years the small plastic bung I found in the car when I bought it, has been put where it should go. It was missing from a hole below the left side B pillar under the car by the sill. I knew it was worth keeping it. It just took me a long time to find where it went. 😒 Checked for fault codes, only one historic one that I cleared. Updated the service history on ERWIN and reset the service warning using OBDII. All good with 'GoGo' and plan to keep this one long term as well. Thanks. AG Falco

It's purpose is to allow the oil pump to run at reduced or normal pressure.

The CD might just be a symptom especially if it is diagnostically voltage sensitive. Any resistance in power leads will potentially cause issues especially after a high current start or under higher load(headlights, electric power steering etc) . Any slight resistance would be amplified by high current load especially after heat is generated. I had a long lasting issue with Mrs BJ's previous Punto years ago that took ages to sort - it kept showing up strange faults such as power steering or subwoofer disabled, After getting frustrated I fitted a second new battery and the fault suddenly revealed itself , the earth lead crimped to a connector bolted to the bodywork pulled apart and when you looked carefully there was evidence of heat. The reason I wonder is you had a voltage reading by the dealer of 11v, was from the cars cpu or if a meter where were the leads attached (earth on body or battery negative). If there is a resistance somewhere don't forget V=IR - the higher the current load the greater the voltage drop. Reading the voltage on the battery alone might not show this up. Try measuring at a 12v socket in the car especially with things turned on.

Interesting, mine is similar but its always ok when its cold , I've been looking in to the function of the n345 that i changed, so i believe it holds back the egr cooling circuit until its up to temp and was wondering if connected.(but I've changed as its cheap anyway) The positive side to these troubles is gaining more and more fragments of knowledge i guess

If it's a choice between a 1.6TDi and a 1.9PD TDi I'd go 1.9. We had one in a Fabia Estate and it was a good engine that eventually did something like 189k miles.

Here an example, it's behind this cover of the trunk door (aka 5th door here in GR) https://d3bsbe39k8p2a0.cloudfront.net/images/product/6/9/2/4/0/28_1800x1255.JPG 097440623 VAG cover for door inner panel rear lid trim panel (leatherette/cloth) https://www.sbazar.cz/tsvoboda.51/detail/175072292-nova-tapeta-5dveri-skoda-felicia-seda-097440623 I put new nylon behind so any rain drops that may pass inside won't touch that wooden panel and will be driven to drain holes that the door has.

I worked on the Mendips and narrowly avoided impact with a boar Badger, it ran into the road at full tilt. I had to make up my mind whether to stay on course or alter course if it decided to turn back to the track it had come out of. I cannot remember my choice but I missed it and had a few badger bristles to show for it. One thing I do remember, it was the biggest Badger I had ever seen. I towed in a couple of other employees cars that weren't so lucky Badgers are pretty solid animals.

The later Amundsen 2 post October 2014 has to have the map SD card in all the time as it does not store the map internally.

Sounds like an RNS-315 aka Amundsen+. The maps are copied from an SD card to the units inbuilt storage at which point the SD card is wiped and useless. It's no longer getting updates, the latest is 2020/21 which is V12 if I remember correctly. A dealer will charge loads but there should be a selection on eBay etc...

Definitely beyond my capabilities, but here is what I found. Thank you for providing the cost of changing the engine mounts. I may have to go down that route. As the vibration has some mechanical origin. About the vibration: The car vibrates in the 1200-1400rpm range, particularly when I push the accelerator pedal to get more power, like a climb. I was testing yesterday with the DSG, and when in 4th, 5th, 6th at that range, when I push the accelerator pedal to 60-70%, it shakes noticeably, and it is very clear on a climb (I can't press it fullly because then the DSG will down-shift automatically even in manual mode). Otherwise, it is independent of speed, and as I just changed the wheels and tyres for summer, independent of those. Looking at the forum, it seems the source of the vibration may be the engine mounts, or the air intake. Any other ideas are welcome though!

Could be an amundsen+ is there a cd slot?

I have changed my wheels on my Superb to VW turbines and it now runs 235 tyres, all I did with mine was to reset the TPMS and it was good to go. TPMS on this model uses wheel rotation rather than pressure valves, cheaper but can still give issues of its own.

Thanks, I blame the cheap keyboard, it has sticky keys that often print none or twice, plus the battery died very shortly after that (I can use a battery that's too low for digital stuff and the keyboard will be happy with it for a very long time and wear it right down, bit like my TV remotes) - plus of course I'm a poor (slow, one-finger) typist. 😆

We were on a campsite, without our own loo and I had to walk the wife across the site to the loo's. It was pitch black and we became aware of a snuffling/clicking noise and it was a Badger snuffling along the verges after worms and beetles and chewing them up. We stopped and moved out of its way and watched as it patrolled the verges. Following day we found a Badger latrine in a corner of the site and the faeces were studded with wing cases and seed bits.

@SebSeb Which engine does your vRS have, Petrol TSI or a Diesel TDI. VW504 00 / 507 000 For fixed or Variable with a TSI, but it must be VW504 00 / 507 00 even if a TDI is fixed oil and filter changes. A TSI on Fixed Oil & filter servicing can use VW 502 00.

NEver heard of it, but these days anything is possible. I got my Focal's from amazon.de There's clearly something wrong in your case, as lacking treble is the last thing that could be said about Focal. Until very recently Focal has been actually known for rather bright and detailed sound, and those ISVW 165 speakers are the same. Don't know, maybe one (or both) tweeter is dead? If you put your ear next to the speaker do you hear the sound coming from it? Changing polarity of either tweeters or mid-woofers should change the sound, as in the end you are making speakers play way out of phase, hence waves will partially cancel each other changing the sound. If there is no change in your case, it's really strange.

Should be, we have those and I use them to adjust the headlamps down when travelling in France to prevent dazzle. Three full turns of the appropriate screw does the job.

Why are we focusing so much on checking wheel speed sensor resistances? Do as I suggested in my first post - you need to be checking at the abs module for power, a load tested ground and canbus voltages. Checking specific components (and not fully) on the abs system is not going to help you find a non connection to a module sorry.

That 12v socket (aka lighter socket) in the front is something that I truly miss, what on earth Skoda were thinking about when they removed it I don't know. I have one (12v socket) in the boot which I have to use with an extension cable for my tyre compressor and car vacuum cleaner.

Hey guys, I've got the Columbus infotainment system. You can see the altitude by going to the home page. Add the 2X3 navigation widget and you'll get a compass. When you swipe, it will display coordinates and altitude.

the 1.4tsi also a good option if you don't do the mileage and don't want a diesel as no dmf or dpf to worry about also does decent mpg around 40mpg around town and 50 mpg on a motorway run

Yes, The voltage measured with a multimeter (a good quality one, Fluke, and in the "LowZ" mode, i.e. with some load) directly on the battery terminals at any engine speed is about 14.4V, and according to the diagram from Skoda Rapid (I can't find the diagram for Fabia III but I think it's the same) the main bus "30" is connected directly to the battery positive. On this bus, the ECU (via VCDS) measures and gives a voltage of 12.7-13.7 V... so something is wrong. Tomorrow I check all battery and ground connections.

Yes this had crossed my mind however I only spend 45 minutes doing donuts in that field which I thought was not excessive ?

@Graham Butcher I just do not expect him to be talking mince. He is another one like the MacMaster, stuff is for the banter. They deliver the Vans / Minibuses on transporters quite often because the range is so poor. As for the delivery drivers i spent 1 hour with one taking a MINI from Aberdeen to London and even paid for his charge in Forfar by using my account. He was in Aberdeen delivering a Tesla and was taking one back & then was landed with a MINI electric. I felt sorry for him.

It's just a spare wheel which, hopefully, will not needed for entire life. If brake size allows, maybe get cheap steel disc with 205/55R16 tyre? This will not "lift up" floor for sure.

Indeed. It's a big issue when it's a gamble on finding a charging point even if you were prepared to break your journey to use one. My ICE will get me from Melbourne to Sydney (700km) on less than a tank. An EV would barely get me half way with the prospect of no charge point wherever it runs flat, and that's on an interstate highway not a country lane.

EVs don't have enough range as yet. For me to consider one it would need to have a range of at least 350 miles per charge, so I can get to the West Country, NW & East Midlands and back with no worries and no having to sit around like a lemon waiting for the stupid thing to charge back up again. I can get at least 330 miles out of a tank of petrol and often nearer 350 when doing long distances on major A roads and motorways.

I will contact my local dealer to see what they will charge me for this, but since I am driving the past 1-2 years with very little invested in the car (it serves me well) I might treat it with a 17£ plastic cap. 😊

A Total diameter / circumference change would make no difference you just reset the TPMS.

11 days after picking up the wifes '23 plate ex demo Scala Monte-Carlo, I finally got round to a proper wash and wax (doubt its had that in its near year of dealer scratch and polish 😜) A bit of Iron-X, rinse, Bilberry wheel cleaner, Bilt Hamber snow-foam and 40% traffic film cleanser mix, 2BM wash with Bilt hamber shampoo, pressure wash rinse, towel pat dry with Monster XL towels, Rain-X front and rear windows, Fusso99 wax including pan roof glass and side windows, wheels treated with Bilt hamber doublespeed wax followed by Sonax BSD, Top Kote tyre dressing, and finally the gloss black door pillars coated with Autoglym SRP ('cos it helps hide the swirls and on a daily use car I CBA to buff them out 😛). The car is moon white metallic, not that you would know unless the sun is shining bright to pick up the subtle metallic-ness ! Hopefully some epic beading to come when it rains ! I thought the reflections weren't too bad seeing as it is overcast here. .

Lovely engine bay😀

Unlikely to be burnt as the dip switch gives only a small signal to the power electronics which actually switches on the lights. The dipped lights are poor compared with full beam on my CR 1.6 TDi. I too fitted better bulbs, which helps. Check the earthing as said above if the light colour is not white.

Skoda don't release patch notes of the updates. However if you load in the new FW then prior to update it will show you roughly what modules are being updated

6,500 miles done now in the MINI. On my own i get pretty much 3.3-3.5 miles to a kWh and with a passenger 3.7 miles. Because i have to behave. This is at temps between freezing and 10*oC. & what i got yesterday. 2 people, 2 folding bikes in the rear, one e-Bike and one a push bike. I will see how it goes on my tod today & this week as the weather get warmer. The bike was good other than a bit of a warp in the rear disc that is squeaking, not just newness, it will need replaced not straightened. The bike climbed OK carrying 115kG but is a bit hard over rough surfaces and terrible on rough tracks. (The last model of this bike had front suspension forks but that would not sort it for me, i need the Brooks sprung saddle on i think, i will see how it goes today.) Seat post /battery removed before folding and lifting in (out) makes a difference as it is heavy.

Mounts are Being painted in Blue to Stupid me didn't get picture of installed pressure plate,but it's there trust me😜

In ancient Greece there was a wisdom, «Ουδέν κακόν αμιγές καλού» translated is "there is no Bad that does not give rise to some Good" which means practically that when a bad thing happens (damage) it's a chance to improvise to make another good thing". So i grab the chance and when i removed the wiper motor, i cleaned the area, opened another 2 draining holes (already had 2), put some insulation, close 2 holes from the licence's plate screws (i have magnetic now), take care some cables and put a new thicker nylon as protection behind the factory wooden 5th door cover (drives water drops to the holes).

yeh thats the one.. I will take a picture later ans how it looks. Yes I have the sinosmart one..