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Which ever is first. eg. 19 days not 10 900 miles. It would be better for your car to be on fixed servicing with the mileage you do, within 19 days. Thanks. AG Falco

An interesting video (certainly I found him interesting) from a proper character and not some confected e-personality.

OK so I know everyone is talking modifications, remaps and the ultimate performance, but today for the first time I 'launched' my standard, stock Superb 280 and was pleasantly surprised. Absolutely no drama, no wheelspin and a recorded time of 4.96 for a 0-60 mph

You can never be sure what to believe. My Škoda workshop say that I should receive OTA updates but, let’s face it, they often don’t know the full facts. Same with Škoda UK customer service who are particularly clueless. I wouldn’t be surprised if all hardware configurations are capable of receiving OTA updates, bear in mind, that version 1941 would have been the first major update that was delivered OTA, but the staggered rollouts could leave you waiting for a long while before it gets to you. Also, the way Škoda updates are delivered is not great, you get a quick message flash up which you have to quickly say “Yes” to but then scant information how the update is progressing and no history of what or if an update was applied.

Me too, a DIY kind of guy, but I couldn't legislate for the total idiot that did my last MOT and put down as an advisory 'Nearside Front Tyre has a cut but not deep enough to reach the ply or cords', when he hadn't realised what a winter tyre was with sipes in the tread, you couldn't make it up.

I'm a diy type of guy , so car/ van always kept in good order so mot only /no repairs places suit me. I don't need someone to tell me my brake discs are corroded Nowadays with mot's you always want to check everything you can beforehand as any advisories you get are down in the cars history for life and the whole world can see them. Always amazes me how cars fail on something like tyres, or wipers etc ,ffs do they not check them before going , or maybe should have gone to specsavers

If your engine does not use oil then you can stick with 504 spec since there's absolutely no reason to change.

Just use Google Maps/Waze. Makes life so much easier?

Thanks @Rooted, the car has history but not enough to confirm Haldex serviced that regularly. Last service was in November (I took it to Skoda dealer just after buying as I didn't trust the used dealer much based on what they hadn't done that they said they were going to...) but before that it had been a couple of years and 40k. The crazy thing about this is that as soon as I picked it up, I told them there was a problem (I got stuck) and EVENTUALLY last month after several visits they agreed there was an issue and to sort it out. As they don't have their own workshop, they took it somewhere and had a reconditioned whole rear transfer box put in - it took them 3.5 weeks to get the car back to me. As soon as I got it back, I tested the 4x4 and didn't work, looked underneath and found that the shiny reconditioned unit had soldering paste on it and a part of one of the 'fins' missing. Naturally, I took it back and told them what I thought and in fairness, it got escalated by their customer service team (quite rightly). They have now taken it to another workshop, who called me yesterday, and whilst he clearly didn't know how the Haldex should operate, he was very open to listening to me and shocked when he looked underneath, as by now the driveshaft seals were leaking liquid and the main seal was breaking up. In short, a joke, and he went back to tell the selling dealership this. That was yesterday and I'm yet to hear back again which is why I wanted to be 100% sure that what I was saying was correct and the rear wheels should have drive in those conditions. Thanks to you and @skomaz I now am - thanks for the link to the haldexrepairs.co.uk page btw, I came across this yesterday and sent it to the workshop. Unfortunately, this is all taking place in Spain where I live and so he was going to use Google translate so let's hope it did a good job!

Hi Just wondering if I can be pointed in the right directing in regards to exhausts. My wife has a MK3 VRS DSG - Tdi 184 and she is not keen on the 'fake exhaust sounds' she said and I quote 'I want the car to sound like yours'. I bought my MK2 Octavia a while ago and it came with a Milltek resonated exhaust system. Which I love, not too load but enough to get a smile on my face when I put my foot down. I've browsed the Milltek website and for her car I only seem to get one option the cat -back, I have no idea if this is theory is what im after. https://milltekshop.com/cat-back-dual-outlet-requires-right-hand-outlet-and-tip-part-5e0253682e-and-right-hand-rear-silencer-hanging-bracket-with-rubber-mount-part-5q0253144n-from-your-local-skoda-dealer-vrs-2-0-tdi-184ps-hatch-estate-manual-and-dsg-auto-2013-2020-ssxsk022/ Many thanks

Probably another thread for that I don't venture much away from the map ones here. MOST is the optical / coax digital connection (think its Coax so it would be dead if not switched on... may be something else needs to be switched on ?). MOST is what they are blessed with for external amps. More likely the gain is different on the balance... I would have thought. Probably a long string you can find with a Google to examine for the 5f unit compare with what you have in Obdeleven. MOST is also used for something else but slipped my memory 🤔. I'm never changed my firmware but have that module hack for FeCs. Stickler. The "experts" wanted me to upgrade to the fully hacked one. Resisted and somebody wrote me the module to go in the Mib2 high toolbox. Got my module code so it went in as an option for others to follow. They hadn't catered for the firmware I was on. At that stage the last Seat mib2 firmware was problematic. 1447. Now they do home brew. It's all basically the same code between the brands. Some people put Skoda code on their Seats but ofcourse if you have different fancy Skoda external amps then they won't be in the software. Where Seat started to get Beats and Sound on the later year Cupras rather than the Seat Sound system which I'm on. Why I stuck with the firmware I had. I didn't want "carbon" which is the festooned screen effect that Cupra people love thinking it's cool. No just freckles on the background making the screen difficult to read. But I do know how to get the Cupra splash screen at ignition 🤔.

Can't help really. I think ext most is external amp optical connection which sounds correct for your setup. @pab567 maybe able to help...

100% there is connectors at the B pillars. Changed my rear door wiring looms when retro fitting rear electric windows. you need to remove the B pillar interior trim panels

@StonekeeperThat will be why they are being told to reinstate the fence. My Granny stayed in exactly they same kind of block.

There may be more to the driveway story than meets the eye. Google maps shows that property in 2022 with a disabled bay outside and no dropped kerb to access the property. Attempts to circumvent planning regulations should always be resisted.

04367032402255.pdf

Strange. because 'They' claim the Ford e-Transit with a 67 kWh battery will do up to 350 kM / 217 miles on a single charge. Simples they give km for those in countries that use km & not miles. They do not do that, but if making a point then make it well. 260 km to miles is 161.557 miles. If they are doing 160 km only then that would be less than 100 miles. 180 km / 112 miles, Maybe true. Probably realistic. If you can read the numbers correctly. That would be more than 1.5 miles to the kWh with a 67 kWh battery. Pod point shows official range as 196 miles, and confident range 167 miles. But then you need to go by which e-Transit they actually are showing.

Switched from factory fitted Goodyear to Bridgestone Turanza 6 and am very happy.

I think I've embarrassingly gotten to the root of this problem. I started snooping around today only to notice that the Canton AMP, under the passenger seat, had its fan on and was making the exact noise I was hearing. Will need to check more later - if this is the case I'm very happy. That said I'm wondering if the amp is starting to show its age by being so loud. Thank you all for your help.

The pop up notification is a bit on the obtrusive side for my liking, covers 70% of the screen area and persists slightly too long without you having to poke it to go away. Also if you have voice notifications, it kills your music for an equally too long period. I guess having paid yer money, there's no way you're going back to Skoda saying I got done coz your app didn't look out for me well enough!

Well, in my case, the bottom of the cartridge is resting on top of the level probes, not falling below them, so the ends of the probes are not rubbing against the side of the (very tough) membrane of the cartridge.

You know what, I just Googled and it seems that the council in my city still do MOT's, albeit £10 more than Skoda, but it might be worthwhile going there next time.👍

Which is fantastic if the things checked are safe on the day and the car well maintained. Not much use if the car never gets inspected and servicing and maintenance by someone that looks and tells you what the car might need doing and you would be best to do. Like cars not getting their first or 2nd MOT, so just 3 or 4 years old. A new MOT is nice, but preventative servicing and maintenance is 'Simply clever'.

not sure about in england but up here in scotland local council mot places deal with the public as well as there own vans/cars. i take mine every year to the local council mot place, there's no incentive for them to fail you just for the sake of picking up work as they dont do repairs

@boycie What is it that makes Long Life oil appear superior? I think it is best not to use the Long Life because actually it is in your CAVE engines that were first given the Code for Fixed Service Oil & Filter changes. Plenty oil users have used less oil when 5w 40 FS is used instead of 5w 30 FS III. Also ran the oil a couple of degrees C lower. The issue with the CAVE engines was and can be bore wash. & the 1 spark plug that gets fouled and cooked. The prescribed fuel was 98 ron, (yes they an run 95 unleaded.) In the UK E5 will be 97 or 99 ron min. With additives and detergents. Then the oil has additives, anti foamers, detergents etc. Maybe you can have too much of a good thing. Higher octane fuel with cleaners and the oil. But the choice is the owners.

Primarily because @Rooted thinks it's better, and says it most days, I think. 😁

Just my tuppence worth, but I'd like to remind you that a warranty is essentially a gamble that your car will break down. You "win" the gamble by getting a successful claim against a failure on your car. (Note, your claim against a failure on your car may be rejected, but you'll still be billed for the warranty. That way you "lose" twice.) You "lose" the bet if your car doesn't break down, so the cost of the warranty was essentially wasted other than to give peace of mind, albeit illusory in some instances. That said, in a perfect claim, a decent warranty can save you a small fortune.

Check out the first several posts of this topic:

Yes, I have done this (though not on a Kodiaq). My advice is to route your cables low, and then you won't have to worry about the dashcam cable fouling the side curtain airbags which fire down from the headlining over the windows.

The Cars leave the Factory on Variable / Flexible Service Intervals and in a 'In Transit' setting. 18,000 -20,000 miles / 24 months. At the PDI there are places that re-set the Service Regime to Fixed Service Intervals. 9,400 miles. 372 days (365 days now with some). Some mess up the Oil Change Service & the Inspection miles / time, mess up various things. There is no just 'Inspection' due at a time different from what in the UK is now called 'Oil & Inspection Services'. @ 1 year or miles if Fixed, or first @ 2 Years & Miles if Variable. Low annual miles is the owners choice if they want the Servicing changed, the supplying dealership should ask and not just do. Fixed Regime.

The only thing I can think of is whether equaliser / balance changed in the update ?. You could down tune bands may be. Afraid I have tinnitus so I'm use to whistling 24/7 irrespective whether I'm in a car or not.

I had a Software Version Management code. I was able to clear the fault code from 5F and it didn't return.

The infamous health check. I'd just say no thanks, take it home & check it yourself, tyre included.

Tourist mode will stop your low beam cut off causing other drivers issues. If you leave tourist mode off and DLA on, although your high beams probably won't cause an issue, the low beam will. That's assuming the system will even take cars on the unexpected side into consideration

Lovely. enjoy. If you have not yet done it, have a look tomorrow where the coolant level is when cold / un-started, and the oil when cold. & check the tyre pressures that the car was handed over with and reset the TPMS. Just so you know that the PDI was done properly. & the levels are when cold. Check the oil level when at normal operating temperature later so that you know both levels on the dip stick.

So far I can only reccommend KW top hats and VibraTechnics mounts-no increase in NVH at all💪👍!

7v = battery well and truly f.....k....d

Did you sell your old HEX-CAN ? I'm in the same boat now, I looked at the price of the new ones and noticed there was a trade in value. A €100 towards a new one as a trade in. The supplier actually said I'd be better off selling it online! I jist sold old HEX-CAN Unlimited VIN cable for nearly €400! That makes it a cheap and easily justified purchase of the HEX-V2!

That's all I think about this topic - I created a separate topic (for the sake of order) regarding strictly "Idle speed of Fabia 1.0 TSI"

Please explain how tinted black headlights will be brighter than the clear units you already have? Simply fit brighter bulbs to your existing units.

The question that comes to mind is "Why?"

Have you tried driving the car at all? I believe all these newer skodas have a soft limiter when parked and in neutral which is where your 3k rpm limit may come from

Might be a simple as you've muted them accidentally? Changing the volume using the control on the steering wheel only works when it is actually talking. Or on the nav screen there is a volume change slider if you tap one of the icons bottom right. Probably not, but quick to check at least

I dont think DSG services are included . From the T & C's

I'd be straight in there with the superglue - but then again, I never drive like I'm fleeing from the FBI........ Were any of these advisories on the previous MOT? You might just have been unlucky and got assigned tester straight out of MoT school........

Sold my mk3 to friends on Tuesday! It had been my best Octavia I'd ever owned! Car 9 on owners register thread. It did object on the day, as the microswitch that opens the boot failed! I picked up a mk4 on Wednesday! It's my 5th Octavia since 1999.

Fitted five new All Season tyres last November. As well as doing the brake strip, clean and regrease I do in the autumn. So 6th service done on Saturday and MOT today. Service is an oil, oil filter and cabin cabin filter one. Battery wanted charging but the car has had less use than in previous years. It is now up to 49 K miles. The tyres/wheels were rotated and alignment checked as usual. MOT was straight through no problems. Brake and emission test results all good. Removed O-S-R wheel arch liner and still all good with no signs of rust around fuel filler. Sprayed a layer of paint around the neck while it was off. After 2.5 years the small plastic bung I found in the car when I bought it, has been put where it should go. It was missing from a hole below the left side B pillar under the car by the sill. I knew it was worth keeping it. It just took me a long time to find where it went. 😒 Checked for fault codes, only one historic one that I cleared. Updated the service history on ERWIN and reset the service warning using OBDII. All good with 'GoGo' and plan to keep this one long term as well. Thanks. AG Falco

Hi on my 2021 Superb you can only set this using the configuration Wizard. Under the menu button , select settings , this will open the system settings. Starting the configuration Wizard is the bottom of this list. Once the Wizard is open just select the time date option icon (on the left) and you can choose 24 hour clock here. - what a faff